• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.9_10 s.146
• /
• pp.1359-1368
• /
• 2005

When we develop the tight-fit 2D pattern from the 3D scan data, segmentation of the 3D scan data into several parts is necessary to make a curved surface into a flat plane. In this study, Garland's method of triangle simplification was adopted to reduce the number of data point without distorting the original shape. The Runge-Kutta method was applied to make triangular patch from the 3D surface in a 2D plane. We also explored the detailed arrangement method of small 2D patches to make a tight-fit pattern for a male body. As results, minimum triangle numbers in the simplification process and efficient arrangement methods of many pieces were suggested for the optimal 2D pattern development. Among four arrangement methods, a block method is faster and easier when dealing with the triangle patches of male's upper body. Anchoring neighboring vertices of blocks to make 2D pattern was observed to be a reasonable arrangement method to get even distribution of stress in a 2D plane.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.195-202
• /
• 2006

Tight-fitting clothing pattern reflecting the accurate information of the 3D body shape has been one of the challenges for garment industry, however, fitting problems still exist. The objectives of the paper is to develop a 2D pattern which fits tightly to the 3D human scan data for sports suits that need comfort and function for maximum performance. In this study, the user graphic interface application software for the semi-automatic garment pattern generation has been implemented using the triangle simplification scheme together with 2D projections of free-falling of 3D surface polygons keeping the original 3D surface area preservation. A typical application of the developed pattern to the functional body suits is presented and verification of the proposed method is also provided.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.3
• /
• pp.155-164
• /
• 2014

This paper discusses the social changes in the late 19th century that provided a historical background in the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing in the West. It examines the social meanings of the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing at the time and traces the origins of these social characteristics to the book published in the $16^{th}$ century by Thomas More, Utopia. The results of this study can be summarized as the following. First, the appearance and expansion of the ready-to-wear clothing coincided with the social transition from a class-based society to a democratic society in the west in the $19^{th}$ century. Second, uniforms were produced in the $18^{th}$ century Europe in order to distinguish different classes and ethnic groups, with the military uniforms being the most visible example. Frequent military campaigns in Europe resulted in the increasing demand and expansion of military uniforms, which later became the basis of the standardization of the men's clothing with uniforms. Third, the women's ready-to-wear clothing appeared later than their male counterpart and was made possible by the simplification of design, an important characteristic of women's wear in the later period. Fourth, the social characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be traced to a democratic and egalitarian society without personal properties that was depicted in the book of Utopia by Thomas More. Fifth, one of the characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be found in the description of Utopia, in which everyone in Utopia wears a clothing of the same form for life.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.53-66
• /
• 2002

The spiral form, which comes from the organic form of natural phenomenon such as growth of creatures, has been used as a factor of formative shape in various fields of art until now. In conjunction herewith, this study intends to discover and express the life force and the formative beauty of natural substances with the organic spiral forms into clothing design, using various creating methods and materials such as Korean traditional paper. The natural substances with the spiral structure, such as seashells, land snails, passion flower, curled flower, growing chart of plants, Impatiens textori was used as subjects of the designs. The seven pieces of work were completed with attempts to develop aesthetic forms through the presentation techniques and methods via restructuring process of simplification, partial transformation and consolidation. Through such process the conclusion of this study is as follows: First, the nature, with unlimited possibilities, could be subject of human formative activities, leading to the creative world of formative art for designers. Second, adaptation of the spiral organic forms of nature into the contemporary clothing designs proved the motif as a source of inspiration of diverse subject, in recognition with its innate formative beauty as well as external shape. Third, design expressions via restructuring process of simplification, partial transformation and consolidation with designer's subjective point of view were adequate for the creations of contemporary fashion designs. Fourth, the Korean traditional paper, as a fine material for various shape according to the handling method, could be used appropriately in the contemporary clothing designs, expressing our aesthetic senses. Fifth and finally, expansion of the realm of formative expression of clothing through the development of possibilities of expression in contemporary clothing would enhance the creative possibilities of clothing design as formative art. In conclusion, the expression of clothing design as formative art was developed on the emphasis of re-creation of natural objects of the organic spiral form. For the future study, the applications of spiral form into everyday clothing designs, consolidating artistic senses and practical senses, are expected as opportunity of proposing developmental possibilities of the contemporary clothing designs.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.1-8
• /
• 1981

French Revolution, while re-establishing the political and social structure, had also changed the cultural conditions of French life and manners. clothing, as with other features of daily life, had some characteristic changes, which this article tried to specify and related with the social conditions. Those specific changes pointed out as typical and discussed herewith are: 1. Clothing manipulated as a political identity kit. 2. Simplification of colors and forms of men's costume. 3. Tendency toward uniformity. 4. Clothing as the symbol of political utopia. 5. The attraction of military uniform. 6. Moral decadence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.11
• /
• pp.1415-1425
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze a theoretical frame of expressional area, the characteristics and the effects which is applied to fashion illustration by metonymic theory. The theoretical frame of expressional area was analyzed by category analysis and 150 fashion illustrations from 1900 to 1999 were analyzed by contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows: The expressions of metonymy were categorized by close-up, realistic expression, omission, borrowing of past style, simplification and deconstruction. First, close-up was presented as emphasis of small part of fashion by cutting the scenes, snapshot, emphasis, etc. Second, realistic expression was presented as description of related circumstance with fashion message through perspective and realistic description of circumstance related to figures. Third, omission was presented as seeking of essential core by removing color, pattern, texture or by omitting body and as emphasis of communication about dominant fashion message. Fourth, borrowing of past style was presented as reminding us of background of the past. Fifth, simplification was presented as using of form or color to alleviate tension of object and to restore the essential reality. Sixth, deconstruction was presented as fragmenting of image, flattening of body and clothing, weakness of form, and strength of color. In conclusion, metonymy made by experience system of thinking based on the reality, have extended expressional territory in pre-existing fashion illustration. And these ways not only will provide fashion image as illustrator's subjective intention and theoretical system of expression of message, but also will be useful way to strengthen communication for easier interpretation of fashion illustration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.11
• /
• pp.1410-1420
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze characteristics of effective expression on T-shirts pattern by peirce's semiotic theory. The methods of this study was to analyze 721 T-shirts patterns in designer's collection from 2000 to 2004. The results of this study were as follows: First of all, iconic expression showed high frequency after 2000. Characteristics of effective expression were as follows: In geometric expression, repetition was presented as a symbolic sign by regular proportion and rule of dot, line, plane, irregularity, mixture of irregular dot, line, plane. Mixed expression was presented as a iconic and symbolic sign by collage, mixture of dot, line, plane, icon and letter. In iconic expression, simplification of iconic sigrl was presented as a iconic sign by simplification of form, color, texture, realistic expression using digital as a iconic sign, and symbolic face, body as a symbolic sign. Pop art's expression was presented as a iconic sign by a cartoon and commercial character and illusion was presented as a iconic sign. In letter's expression, brand logo was presented as a symbolic sign by transformation of letter's design, a symbolic sign of numeral by transformation of size, thickness, form, color. Symbolic message phrase was presented by slogan, fashion trend, brand image, descriptive indication message as a index sign by using icon or singleness. In conclusion, characteristics of effective expression on T-shirts pattern will present not only the theoretical foundation to raise the value added, but also the information about beauty sense of times, political and social value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.5 s.153
• /
• pp.722-732
• /
• 2006

The pattern making of the tight-fitting collars which often used in diving suits, dance wear, or cycle wear has not been fully established. To develop tight-fitting collar pattern directly from 3D images from the representative somatotypes, dressforms developed by Jaeun Jung were used. The 3D scan data of the four male dressforms were obtained using Exyma-1200. Triangle Simplification and the Runge-Kutta method were applied to reduce the 3D scan data points and to make the segmented triangular patches in a plane from 3D data. As results, apparent differences between the tight-fitting collar patterns obtained from the 3D scan data and the ordinary 2D collar patterns were found around the center back line. The curvatures of the center back line were higher in all types of the tight-fitting collar than in the ordinary collar pattern. Relative differences in the shape of collar lines among four representative Korean men were reported. To fit the curved shape of the back neckline, 1.8 cm should be reduced from the upper neckline in average. We suggested the direct pattern making method for the 2D tight-fitting collar patterns considering the 3D shape of various types of men's dressform.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.103-122
• /
• 2007

Fashion have been expressed by a face through various a period, social change, and various culture changing. Human expresses as "Transformation" by applying these needs of changing to the fashion. A origin tribe expressed its own self by using direct body transformation and extreme decorations in the past. However, human express creative and esthetic desire based on shape, material, and transformation method in the present time characteristics of the body. Exceptional transformation breaking a existing fixed idea appeared frequently due to dissolution through transformation which is positive expression method in the fashion from 20th century. As a results, followings are obtained in this study. First, human body transforms by using a tool or intermediation in investigation of aesthetic meaning for human body. The object, Transformation, is stably transformed by disintegration, distortion, exaggeration and simplification reduction, as design's sensitivity. Second, transformation from relation of clothing composition is expressed by extension, reduction, simplification, and dissolution. In transformation from original tribe's sensitivity, past decorative desire lead to transformation of human body. To give variable change from past to present fashion, external formative will is introduced. Then, extreme expression is made by direct transformation of clothing type. It seems to be accomplished that human body's expression method is continuously changed into extension, exaggeration, reduction, and dissolution from transformation method as described before. Transformation of modem fashion is expression method by creative supervision. Extreme transformation substituted body's each part is based on immanent play and representative satisfaction. Through these transformation, it is judged that variety of creative type is achieved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.1016-1026
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this study was to extract protypes from features and concrete images of Lotus and Crane patterns. A qualitative and a quantitative methods were used. Qualitative informations were obtained from depth Interviews for pattern selection and feature extraction, and quantitative informations from a quail-experiment for pattern caregorization. The subjects were 20 female design students and non-design, students in Teajon. The results were summerized into a similarity metrix which was interpreted by the cluster analysis and the multi-dimensional scling(MDS). The patterns for the study were grouped into 8 clusters. Four dimensions were chosen for the MDS. The location of each pattern was visualized in a 2-dimesional spaces and the location of each cluster in a 3-dimensional spaces. The first dimension, "Lotus" vs "Crane" refired to pattern types, and the second dimension, "realistic" vs "transformable", the transformability. The third dimension, "simple" vs "complex", refired to the degree of simplification, and the forth dimension, "continuous" vs "discontinuous", continuity. The results of the Quantitative analysis could be summerized into 3-level prototype hiararchy In the first level, the patterns were devided clearly into two groups. Lotus and Crane by pattern types. In the second levelk, each group was devided into twosubgroups by continuity. In the third, each subgroup was divided into four subgroups by transformability and the degree of simplification. Four protypes, the final targets of the present study, were extracted from the third level. The are Stylized, Realistic, Decorative, Abstract types.d from the third level. The are Stylized, Realistic, Decorative, Abstract types.