• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.337-343
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• 2009

This study systematically investigated a method for extraction of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius Linnaeus) colorants by ultrasonic treatment. Compared to pigments productivity and cell wall structures of safflower after general and ultrasonic method, the ultrasonic method showed high extraction efficiency of safflower pigments due to destruction of safflower cell wall caused by high vibration energies. Microscopic analysis confirmed the hypothesis that the ultrasonic treatment of safflower caused its cell wall structure loosened and made efficient extraction of safflower pigments. And also, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed that productivities of the yellow and red safflower pigments by ultrasonic method were 21.9% and 14.6% higher, respectively, than those of pigments extracted by general method. The ultrasonic extracted yellow and red colorants could be used to dye not only natural fibers like cotton, silk and wool, but also synthetic fiber like nylon, and generally gave a better color tone than the general extracted colorants from safflower due to the affinities of red and yellow colorant on different fibers. As the yellow and red colorant were extracted by ultrasonic treatment in water, the K/S value on of 550/440nm of cotton and rayon was increased but in the case of silk and wool the change of this value was almost not detected. Finally, this technique might provide a solution to establish reproducibility and standardization for the extraction and dyeing methods on fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.413-423
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• 2013

Chlorophyll is an abundant pigment found in all green plants, algae, and cyanobacteria. This study uses methanol, acetone and water to extract spinach and mate powders in order to examine the possibility of dyeing animal fibers with chlorophyll without chemical alteration. It was shown that methanol extracts of spinach and mate powders can be effectively used to dye wool and silk fabrics if the extract is mixed with water by methanol:water 65:35 v/v. Compared to methanol extract, the acetone extract showed lower chlorophyll yield and lower dye uptake. Water was not an appropriate solvent for chlorophyll extraction and dyeing. Spinach powder showed a higher dye uptake than mate powder due to the higher chlorophyll content than mate powder. It is possible that the chlorophyll dyeing of wool and silk fabrics is due to the hydrogen bonding between the hydroxy amino acids in fiber and the carbonyl groups of chlorophyll. These carbonyl groups are on the heterocyclic ring and the methyl and ethyl side chains of chlorophyll.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.667-675
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• 2013

After analyzing excavated $17-18^{th}$ century silk fibers through a scanning electron microscopy, we discovered seven different kinds of fracture morphology. Using Morton & Hearle fiber fracture morphology, we classified the findings into four different categories. Type I is tensile failure resulting from brittle fracture, granular fracture, and ductile fracture. Type II is fatigue failure caused by tensile fatigue, flex fatigue, and axial split (fibrillation). Type III is bacterial deterioration discovered only in excavated artifacts. Type IV is a combination of the three above. Humid underground conditions and the infiltration of bacteria caused the fibers to swell and weaken its interfibrillar cohesion. Fractures occur when drying and processing an excavated artifact that is already in a fragile condition. Therefore, one must minimize damage through a prompt cleaning process and make sure that the least possible force is exerted on the fabric during any treatment for repair and exhibition.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.1-38
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• 2022

Many knotted carpets from western China and Central Asia from 700 BCE to 700 CE demonstrate strong resemblances to the Assyrian-Persian stone reliefs and Hellenistic-Romanmosaics. Egypt reveals the earliest samples in plain linen fiber and carpets with colorful designs in the mural paintings. The Egyptian wall decoration in faience shows the motifs of waterlily in two variations in the design, both of which appear in the Assyrian floor thresholds designs. The same waterlily or four-petal design in the Egyptian and Assyrian stonework also appear in the Pazyryk knotted carpet in the same manner. The Assyrian thresholds show a composition with a central area and borders in a square or rectangular overall design, which again parallels the Pazyryk carpet. The ideas of composition and motifs commonly seen in the Hellenistic and Roman mosaics appear in the carpets of Central Asia and western China. The similarities between the stone mosaic works and carpets demonstrate clearly that the remote places and peoples in ancient times learned from, and exchanged with, each other the ideas and artistic styles, and integrated to create some local artistic traditions, thanks to the roles the easy-to-carry textiles played throughout the Silk Road. The carpets played their roles: as practical material for daily use, and as carrier of cultural information through their designs.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• no.11
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• pp.15-22
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• 1970

This experiment is to investigate the influence on business by varying the scouring condition of raw silk. The conditions of experiment are changed by temperature, time concentration and scouring reagent as well as the pH value of scouring solution, involving the repeat number of treatment in the same reagent solution. The results are as follows. 1) The shorter the scouring time, the more lousiness showed on law silk. The difference of lousiness quantity are especially remarkable between 30 min. and 60min, while the appearance of lousiness is slight between 50min. and 90min. 2) The lousiness shape was just like splited end and short wool fiber type during than 60 min. scouring, and splited end and long wool fiber type was appeared during 120 min. scouring. 3) The seperation of threads on silk panel was difficult with undissolved sericin in case of lower than 90$^{\circ}C$ of scouring temperature, so that it was almost impossible to inspect lousiness. 4) In case of repeating one after another scouring in the same solution, the more number of treatment, the less sho wed lousiness. Little difference were appeared in the quantity of lousiness from first to eighth repeated scouring, while large difference of quantity was appeared between 8th and 9th repeated scouring. 5) The quantity of lousiness was also increased until scouring reagent (Marseilles soap) is added to 0.75％, but rather decreased with more than 0.75％ of soap. The most variety of lousiness quantity was occured when the concentration of soap is changed from 0.15％ to 0.20％. 6) The peculiarities of lousiness shape by the concentration of scouring reagent were as followings; most of lousiness are splited end short wool fiber type with lower wool fiber type with higher than 0.75％, and the mixture of both the former and the latter with 0.5％ concentration. 7) The quantity of lousiness by the kind of scouring reagent was the least with 5％ of Na$_2$CO$_3$ solution, and the most with the mixture of 0.25％ Marseilles soap and 0.25％ Na$_2$CO$_3$. 8) The more increased pH value, the more lousiness showed. The peculiarities of lousiness shape was the splited end and short wool fiber type, and the end and long wool fiber type with higher value of pH 11 because of the decreased strength of threads and the cutting of brin. 9) With the discussions mentioned the above, the scouring conditions to decrease the lousiness quantity are summarized as follows. (1) It is better to take the possible long time of scouring. (2) Temperature should be kept higher than 95$^{\circ}C$ for complete scouring. (3) It was the best to use 0.5％ of Marseiles soap as scouring reagent. (4) No good results were produced by using the mixture of scouring reagent. (5) The best pH range of scouring solution was 9.5 to 10.5.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• Journal of Fisheries and Marine Sciences Education
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.490-500
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• 2010

This study, at first we extracted natural dyes from seaweed(Sargassum thunbergii, Hizikia fusiforme, Sargassum horneri). Then. we dyed cotton, wool, and silk with the extracted dyes. This study purposes to find the best one for dyeing with seaweed in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with seaweed and investigates the colorfastness to washing, light, sun protection factor, antibiotic activities, deodorization after mordanting treatment. of seaweed. The mission of general agricultural education is to prepare and support individuals for careers, build awareness, and develop leadership for the food, fiber, and natural resource systems. In response to the changes of the recognition and attitude toward agriculture, agricultural education also should be developed and adapted to the circumstances. And The Researcher took an observation on color change, color fastness to washing and color fastness to light after mordanting treatment. And the following results have been obtained. 1) Dyed cotton, wool, and silk fabrics with the extract of seaweed are generally brown. 2) Wool. silk, and cotton, in this order, are of good dyeability; Wool fabrics have the highest dyeability and cotton fabrics have the lowest. 3) Colorfastness to washing, light, sun protection factor, antimicrobial activity acessment, deodorization are all high. 4) The seaweed-dyed fabrics were shown to have much higher sun protection factor than the non-dyed fabrics, and the seaweed-dyed fabrics with mortanting treatment showed the following result; ranged from anged from from 93.1% to grade 99.2%. 5) The seaweed-dyed fabrics were shown to have much higher antibiosis than the non-dyed fabrics, and the seaweed-dyed fabrics with mortanting treatment showed the following result; ranged from 91.3% to grade 99.9%. 6) The seaweed-dyed fabrics were shown to have much higher deodorization than the non-dyed fabrics, and the seaweed-dyed fabrics with mortanting treatment showed 99.9%.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1129-1140
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• 2009

The pine needles has been used as medicines and it is using as dyeing as well as food. It is distributed through 50% in Korean forest. The pine needles is related to antimicrobial activity, however, dyeing properties of the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. To examine dyeing properties of the pine needles extract, various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool, and soybean) were dyed under different dyeing conditions, and mordanted with one of five mordants(Al, Sn, Fe, Cr, and Cu). Dye uptake, Colors and Colorfastness of the dyed fabrics were measured. By the K/S values, dye uptake of all the dyed fabrics enhanced as increasing dyeing temperature and dyeing time. The highest K/S values were obtained from the protein fiber(wool and silk) fabrics dyed with water extract at $100^{\circ}C$, and with ethanol extract at $90^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. Colors of the dyed fabrics showed variety of yellow, brown and green colors. Colors changed by using Cu, Fe and Cr mordants: Cr-mordanted fabrics into light green, Fe-mordanted fabrics into reddish brown, and Cu-mordanted fabrics into deep green in ethanol extraction. Dry-cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics presented good to excellent except wool fabrics dyed with ethanol extract. Washing fastness of the dyed nylon and soybean fabrics were good to excellent but wool and silk fabrics showed average grades. Most dyed fabrics were poor to light fastness.

• Journal of Radiation Industry
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.231-242
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• 2016

This study was conducted to evaluate the synergistic protective effects of mixtures of corn silk, perilla leaf and grape stem extract (CPG mixture) against UVB-induced skin damage and compound 48/80-induced pruritus in mice. The results showed that treatment with CPG mixture exhibited much stronger suppressive effect on erythema and melanin index as well as melanin formation than treatment with ascorbic acid (AA) in UVB-irradiated mice. Moreover, the treatment with CPG mixture showed ameliorative effect on immune cell infiltration and collagen fiber destruction in UV-irradiated mice. The treatment with CPG mixture inhibited glutathione (GSH) depletion, lipid peroxidation and production of pro-inflammatory cytokines in UVB-irradiated mice. Furthermore, the treatment with CPG mixture inhibited compound 48/80-induced scratching behavior and histological changes in mice. Taken together, these results indicated that CPG mixture has potentials as functional and therapeutic materials against skin damage and itch-related skin diseases.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.36-42
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• 2018

Recently, silk sericin has attracted attention because of its unique properties as a biomaterial, including its UV resistance, moisturizing effect on skin, and wound-healing effect. Therefore, the preparation of sericin in various forms such as gel, film, fiber, and sponge is studied for cosmetic and biomedical applications, and the effect of the preparation conditions on the structure and properties of sericin forms is examined to maximize its performance. In this study, silk sericin films were prepared under different preparation conditions and heat-treated at high temperatures ($100-250^{\circ}C$) to examine the effect of heat treatment on the film structure. The order of the crystallinity index of the untreated sericin film is as follows: F25 (sericin film cast from formic acid) > WE25 (ethanol treated sericin film cast from water at $250^{\circ}C$) > W25 (sericin film cast from water at $250^{\circ}C$) > W100 (sericin film cast from water at $100^{\circ}C$). As the heat-treatment temperature was increased, the color of the sericin films changed gradually from colorless to yellow, brown, and black depending on the temperature. The crystallinity of the sericin film changed after the heat treatment, depending on the preparation condition. Whereas a sericin film cast from formic acid (F25) started to lose its crystallinity at $200^{\circ}C$, thus undergoing the highest loss of crystallinity among the sericin films studied, the rest (W25, WE25, and W100) showed a decrease in crystallinity at $250^{\circ}C$, owing to the disruption of the ${\beta}$-sheet crystallites due to heat.