• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• no.11
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• pp.87-94
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• 1970

This study was conducted in order to find out the tendency of sericultural woman's clothes. This data was based on random samples of 183 sericultural women throughout the country, and was derived from the investigation of c1othes (western and Korean-style) which had been made during the years, 1967∼1969. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Western-style clothes were about twice as popular as Korean-style, and more evident among the young women. It was also shown that the ratioes mentioned above were gradually decreased year by year. 2. Most popular among the western-style clothes were blouses, one-piece dresses and skirts. Jogori(coat) and Cheema(long skirt) were favorites among the Korean-styled clothes. One-piece dresses showed increasing tendency of use year by year. 3. Costume-made clothes were much more in number than the home-made and the ready-made types. The home-made and the ready-made clothes increased as the ages increased. 4. Western-styled clothes were popular in summer seasons while Korean-styled clothes were popular in the winter time. Among the western-styled clothes one-pieces dresses and two-piece suits were most popular during the spring through autumn. In Korean clothes the Cheema was popular all year round. 5. Western-style clothes were mostly made of polyester and their blends. Silk was the least used fabric. On the contrary, most of Korean-style clothes were made of silk and their blends. The synthetic fibers showed increasing use year by year. 6. Favorite colors were in order; white, blue, brown, and black in western-style clothes; white, blue, green, and gray were in Korean style clothes. Young women teaded to have a wider preference of colors than the older women.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.219-231
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information necessary for the cleaning of excavated costumes. For the purpose, these researchers reviewed previous records of the actual cleaning of excavated costumes and then implemented and documented the processes of cleaning the Yeosan Song's costumes excavated at Mokdal-dong, Daejeon, which could date back to the early and mid periods of Choseon Dynasty. The excavated clothes of the family provide good examples for comparing men's costume of the 15th century with men's and women's of the mid and late 16th century. The total quantity of excavated remains were 184 and textiles were cotton, silk, hemp, ramie, and union cloth. The clothing remains were processed through wet or dry cleaning in accordance with their fabric condition and the extent to which they were worn or polluted. In detail, the excavated costumes of the Yeosan Song family were cleaned in two stages. For wet cleaning, both anionic(LAS) and nonionic(Triton X-100) surfactants were respectively used as cleaning agents and for dry cleaning, a mixture of n-hexane and n-decane(the ratio of 4 to 6) and petrolic dry cleaning solvent were used. After first cleaning, some cotton, ramie and hemp which had still the stains were processed bleaching and silk which were good condition was processed dry cleaning with the organic solvent again.

• Journal of the Korean Crystal Growth and Crystal Technology
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.508-512
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• 1998

The NTC thermistors were sintered by using microwave hybrid heating method at $1100^{\circ}C$~$1300^{\circ}C$ and those electrical properties were investigated. The obtained $B_{25^{\circ}C/85^{\circ}C}$ values from temperature dependence of electrical resisitivity were around 3100~3200 K which were almost the same values as conventionally sintered ones. Compared with conventional sintering process, this process could complete whole sintering process within 20 minutes. This the processing time and energy consumption could be reduced through this rapid heating by using microwave hybrid heating.t there were showed only two peaks, glycolide melting peak and lower molecular weight melting peak without lauryl alcohol. Conversion increased slowly with the reaction time up to 50 minutes, and then gave a sudden increase above that. The reaction time to disappear in glycolide melting peak during polymerization was shortened with the increase of lauryl alcohol content. Zero-shear viscosity of polyglycolic acid decreased with the increase of free acid content in glycolide.ssional energy and bending hysteresis increased. \circled3 Surface characteristics such as friction coefficient and thickness variation of highly shrinkage fabrics became relatively roughened state. \circled4 Since stiffened and roughened characteristics of highly shrinkage fabrics, drapabilities of them were significantly lowered. Additionally thermal insulation property of high shrinkage fabric was higher than that of low shrinkage fabric due to bulky and thickened feature. From the results, it is considered that the silk fabrics with high filling shrinkage have the good bulkiness and heat keeping properties and thus they have the suitable characteristics for high quality men's and women's formal garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.3-14
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• 2016

This study is aimed to measure the physical colorimetric property according to three conditions, natural dyestuffs (Gardenia, Sappan wood, Lac, Gardenia blue, Mugwort, and Indigo), fabric types (cotton, silk), and presence of mordant (without, with), and then to evaluate the psychological sensibility. Also, to perform analysis of variance (ANOVA) to find out the differences of physical properties according to the three natural dyeing conditions, and to analyze the relationship between physical property and psychological property by Pearson's correlation analysis and then suggest the prediction model by regression analysis using SPSS program (ver. 21.0). Finally, to propose a certain sensibility image map of naturally dyed fabrics, MDS (Multidimensional Scaling) was used, and as a result, Gardenia dyed fabrics having the color sensibilities such as 'hard' and 'heavy' were suggested to evoke masculine image, and to evoke feminine image, Sappan wood and Lac having 'bright', 'transparent', 'soft' and 'light' sensibilities were suggested. Natural image might be induced by using 'subdued' Mugwort dyed fabrics, and active image might be induced by using 'showy' Indigo dyed fabric.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.21-27
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• 2012

In the Chosun period, the noble class usually buried the dead bodies in the lime-covered tomb. Recently their costumes are excavated while maintaining the shape. However, the textiles discovered from the inside have been degradated by a body and moisture. To conserve these textiles one of the most important thing is how to clean these textiles right after the excavation. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of wet cleaning to minimize the color change of textile remains. For this purpose, silk and cotton were dyed with natural dyes (7 red, 1 blue, 6 yellow, 4 green and 4 purple colors), then they were kept for 6 months with pork meat at $10^{\circ}C$, and were washed by four cleaning solutions (water, anionic surfactant (SDS), non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) and natural surfactant (saponin)) at $20^{\circ}C$ and $40^{\circ}C$. The color change was evaluated by color difference (${\Delta}E$) between non-treated and after washed samples. From the results, it was found that the color changes are significantly different depending on the washing temperature, textile material, the cleaning agents and the type of dyes.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.4-21
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• 2018

This paper reviewed the legitimacy of the name of those sixteen pieces of hat artifacts known in Korean as pyeongjeongmo and currently housed by the National Palace Museum. This was undertaken in order to rectify the error of calling them pyeongjeongmo. Also, the paper suggested pyeongjeongmo's production method to apply representation of the artifacts or production of Joseon officials' hats as representation of ritual costumes in the royal court. The name pyeongjeongmo originated from pyeongjeonggeon. Gyeongguk Daejeon recorded that noksas wore yugak-pyeongjeonggeon and seoris wore mugak-pyeongjeonggeon, but the pyeongjeongmo artifacts housed in the National Palace Museum have been found irrelevant to those pyeongjeonggeons put on by both noksas and seoris. Rather, they has been confirmed as corresponding to dugeon or jogeon worn by byeolgams or suboks who served at the palace of the crown prince or princess. Through the investigation of the artifacts, the researchers could find out the tailoring and sewing methods, the finished look, and the folding manner of pyeongjeonggeon. Although the structure of pyeongjeonggeon was generally consistent, the frontal look was slightly different depending on the folding manner, resulting in three distinguished types of pyeongjeonggeon. Regardless, the pyeongjeongmo was made with one piece of fabric by a flat tailoring and folding method to create a three-dimensional hat. The finished shape appeared low in the front and high in the back side structure. The head girth was 55~59 cm, and the height was 19.4~21.5 cm. To make it with one piece of fabric, the head girth part was tailored in the same direction as the strands. Based on the artifact Changdeok 23820, this paper has also suggested a finished reproduction through the processes of preparing the materials, mounting, making the center ornaments, sewing and folding. The tailoring was completed with black silk fabric which was cut in a unique shape designed in advance, and hemp fabric which was mounted to the former. The top part of the head was finished with black threads, and the center line at the back was fixed with decolored cotton threads by blanket stitches with 3.5~4 cm intervals. Bamboo strands were inserted in the inside of the front-folded part, which then was fixed by patterned stitches with white cotton thread. At the back, a small bamboo clasp was attached so that one can lock it to the headband and prevent it from falling off.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.215-225
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• 2015

"Jocheonillgi", one of the articles left by Jo Heon(1544~1592) whose pen name was Jung-bong, is a travelogue which was written in around 1574~1575 when he was dispatched to Ming as a formal envoy(Giljungkwan). The diary-style manuscript was designated as one of the pieces of the National Treasure 1007. Due to the damage of its binding strings, abrasion, fold, stain, insect and damage on the surface, conservation and restoration was needed. In the process of separation, three more binding strings were found, confirming that the travelogue was rebound at least twice in the past. In addition, the page of 'Yeondoillgi', the original title, was bound inside, confirming that the current cover was revised in the past. As the result of the investigation of base fabric, paper mulberry was found to be the cover, inside paper, lining paper, paper strings. The three kinds of binding string including the current ones was defined to be silk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.112-132
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• 2015

Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

"Aloha" is the Hawaiian word that extends the warmth friendliness, and pride of the Hawaiian people to their island's visitors. The aloha shirt truly symbolizes aloha sprit to islanders and visitors alike. The earliest foreign settlers in the Hawaiian Islands were the Chinese and Japanese. They brought with them their myriad talents and trades, among them the art of tailoring. In July of 1936, a shirtmaker named Ellery J.Chun coined the term "Aloha Shirt" an apt characterization for such an eloquent garment. He was the first to make the shirt on a commercial basis. The shirt sold for as little as a dollar in Chun's own King-Smith store. The genuine aloha shirt is now regaled as a work of art and avidly sought out by collectors. When tourism came to Hawaii in the late 1930s, these unusal shirts were among the first thing that visitors had to have. Local designers and tailors worked quickly to meet the demand and began to expand the range of decoration to include palm trees and romantic beaches, tropical jungles and volcanoes, exotic flowers and scenes from polynesian legend. Therefore the aloha shirt had been born. The functional use of creative colors and amazing artistic renderings in these shirts certainly capture the simplicity and sprit of Hawaii. Aloha shirt is dress that display mystery and charm of Hawaii and cultural symbol of condensed Hawaiian mind. Furthermore, the innocence with which Hawaiians formerly translated their life and heritage onto fabric ranks these shirts with the finest of American folk art. Aloha shirt is made from cotton, silk, rayon in present and past. Most important design element of Aloha shirt is print pattern. Main print pattern of Aloha shirt are all over pattern, horizontal pattern, border pattern, Japanese pattern, picture pattern and back panel pattern. In this study I investigate the design characteristics and development process of aloha shirt.