• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.47-50
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• 1985

견의 증량 및 실용성 향상을 위한 견에 대한 비닐 단량체 그라프트 중합법에 관한 연구에서 각종 단량체에 의한 그라프트 중합견의 물성 변화에 대한 시험 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. 생사에 대한 스타이렌 및 M.M.A.의 그라프트 중합에 있어서 그라프트 중합율이 높을수록 생사의 sericin 정착율이 높았으며 단량체별로는 스타이렌 중합구가 M.M.A. 중합구보다 sericin 정착율이 높았다. 비닐 단량체 그라프트 중합 생사는 무처리 생사에 비하여 강력 (g/d) 및 신도가 저하되었다. 2. G.M.A. 그라프트 중합견의 그라프트율은 53.7%로서 M.A.A. 중합견의 48.6%에 비하여 약간 높았으며 중합견포의 급수율은 그라프트 중합율이 높을수록 떨어졌으나 G.M.A. 중합견은 39.6%로서 M.M.A. 중합견의 25.0%에 비하여 14.6%가 높았다. 3. E.G.M. 그라프트 중합견의 그라프트율은 58.3%로서 G.M.A. 중합견의 53.9%에 비하여 약간 높았으며 E.A. 중합견은 33.7%로서 가장 낮은 수준이었다. E.G.M. 중합견의 급수율은 G.M.A. 및 E.A. 중합견에 비하여 우수하였으며 견포의 강연도는 E.G.M. 및 G.M.A. 중합견 모두 미중합견에 비하여 증가되므로서 촉감이 저하되었다. 4. 그라프트 중합사의 중합균일도에 있어서 그라프트 중합욕을 진양 처리하면 관행 중합법에 비하여 중합 가공 견사의 섬도편차와 견포의 두께 편차를 감소시키므로서 중합규일도를 향상시킬 수 있었다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.67-72
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• 1987

견직물의 효소정련에 있어서 조련정도가 효소정련한 견직물의 특성에 미치는 영향을 구명하기 위하여 조련정도가 다른 효소정련견포에 대하여 KES-F System을 적용하여 역학적 특성 즉 인장, 굽힘, 약단, 압축 및 표면특성을 측정하고 태값을 산출하여 비교한 결과는 아래와 같다. 1. 능하부다이 견직물의 경우 조련연감율이 증가와 함께 포의 stiffness는 감소되고 smoothness는 향상되었으나 종합 태값인 soft feeling은 조련 20%에서 가장 우수하였다. 2. 크\ulcorner데신 견직물의 경우 anti-drape stiffness는 조련정도가 커지는데 따라서 증가되었으나 기타 특성과 종합 태값인 Flexibility with soft feeling은 조련정도와 상관이 인정되지 않았다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.861-871
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• 2014

This study explored applicability of natural dyeing and functional property of base paper using paper yarn and fabrics with green laver extracts. As a result of measuring dyeability and functional property of cotton, silk, and a blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, $60^{\circ}C$ and 40 minutes was the optimal dyeing condition for the cotton fabric under an alkali condition; $50^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for the silk fabric; $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 minutes for the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry. As a result of measuring the color fastness after dyeing cotton, silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, fastness to washing, water, rubbing, dry cleaning and light was superior. In terms of functional property, the silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry were superior concerning antimicrobial properties of the fabric dyed with green laver extracts while the cotton fabric showed 90% or over. Regarding deodorization, the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry was the most superior. All the fabrics were harmless to the human body as they had heavy metal content below the standard. Considering the research results comprehensively, the green laver extracts possibly has enough applicability and functional property as a natural dyes. Moreover, it has potential to be developed new eco-friendly fashion materials.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.28-39
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• 1985

견직물의 실용성능(방추도, 세탁성)을 개선할 목적으로 실크하브다이(silk habutae)에 실리콘수지를 유화 가공법으로 처리하였다. 실리콘가공 하브다이의 방추도, 발수도, 유연도, 강신도, 수분율 등은 직물검사 방법에 따라서 검사하였고 가공 후 견피브로인의 구조적인 변화를 구명하기 위하여 주사전자현미경, 아미노산분석, X-선 회절강도, FT-IR 흡수분석에 의하여 검토한 결과 아래와 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1) 견하브다이 직물의 방추도는 soaping 처리오 큐어링 조건에 의하여 현저히 개선되었다. 2) 실리콘 수지 가공에 의하여 견하브다이의 발수도와 유연도가 향상되었고, 가공 후 silk fibroin을 주사전자현미경으로 관찰한 결과 견섬유 특유의 불규칙한 섬유표면은 평활하게 관찰되었다. 3) 실리콘 수지와 silk fibroin의 반응에 따라서 피브로인 조성 아미노산 중 극성기를 가지고 있는 아미노산의 감소비율이 현저하였다. 4) 실리콘 수지가공 silk habutae는 soaping에 의하여 X-선 회절강도가 높아지는 경향이었다. 5) 가공 후 견하브다이의 FT-IR 흡수곡선에 실록산등의 peak가 검출된 것으로 미루어 fibroin의 개질이 가능하다고 생각된다.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.119-132
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• 2016

Weighting of silk fabrics have long been practiced in silk fabric trading based on the primary consideration of price-weight, and secondary one of quality improvement in handle, luster, and drape properties. Recent trend of practicing weighting of silk fabrics is, however, focused on the improvement of the handle, luster, drape, and other properties. During the finishing processes of synthetic fiber, nylon, comprising amide structure, include the use of tannic acid, especially in the dyeing. A multitude of studies are being implemented in terms of improving fastness to washing, fastness to light of dyed nylon product, or the light fastness of nylon 6 itself. In this study, the effects of various tannic acid treatments on the physical properties related to the handle of nylon 6 and silk fabrics are examined and reviewed. The effects of treatment condition of the tannic acid, e.g., the concentration of the aqueous tannic acid solution, treatment time, and temperature were investigated. As the concentration of the aqueous solution of tannic acid increased, the bending rigidity values of the silk and nylon 6 fabrics increased. The treated fabrics felt stiff to the touch. Within the mild conditions of bending employed in the bending measurement of KES, nylon 6 treated fabric specimen exhibited a trend of improvement of bending resiliency within the range of small bending deformation. The weight of treated fabrics have all increased. The air-permeability values decreased as the treatment concentration increased. However, the decrease tendency of air permeability values may be alleviated by adjusting the fabric count during the tentering or expanding processes, either by tension adjustment or heat treatment. Optimum conditions of the treatment for nylon 6 are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1, and those for silk fabric treatment are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1. The treatment conditions will lead to the improvement in the properties of fabrics for summer.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.189-194
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• 2016

The objectives of this research were to study the effect of salt-shrinkage finishing of silk on shrinkage degree and dyeing property of cochineal, and to investigate the efficacy of obtained results for imparting surface design effect on silk fabric. Ultimately it was aimed to suggest a technical process for developing natural dyed silk products with diverse design. Premordanted silk fabric was treated with $Ca(NO_3)_2$ solution(gravity: 1.45) at $90^{\circ}C$ for 1 min, washed, dried for further evaluation. The shrinkage of salt-treated fabric was calculated. The effects of salt treatment on the dye uptake of cochineal and colorfastness were investigated. The degrees of shrinkage were 10% and 3% for warp and weft, respectively. The salt treatment resulted in improving dye uptake of cochineal slightly. In addition, it improved colorfastness to washing and light. On the basis of the results, a technical process composed of premordanting, salt treatment and natural dyeing was suggested and using the process, two examples of textile design were presented. It can be concluded to impart various three dimensional surface design effect on silk fabric by applying salt-shrinkage finishing with combination of natural dyeing and mordanting.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.476-480
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• 2006

For the purpose of application to new natural dyestuff, the dyeability of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was analyzed. It was dyed in silk fabric according to various dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. And the effects of mordanting conditions were examined as color differences and color fastnesses. The maximum absorbance of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was at 521 nm. The dyeaffinities were increased gradually as were increased dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. The dyeaffinity was increased at pre-mordanted condition, and color difference was increased distinctly at post mordanted condition. The hues of mordanted silk fabrics were RP, P, PB, BG where as non mordanted silk fabric was R. Lightfastness was the best at pre-Sn mordanted and the worst at Post-Al mordanted. Washing and perspiration fastnesses were improved on pre and post-Sn mordanted.