• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.47-50
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• 1985

The physical properties of graft polymerized silk fibre were investigated with various vinyl monomers. 1. The graft polymerization of styrene and methyl methacrylate onto raw silk reduced the tenacity and elongation of raw silk due to fixation of sericin covering silk fibre in, but the styrene grafting was more effective for sericin fixation of raw silk than the methyl methacrylate one. 2. The water absorbability of glycidyl methacrylate grafted silk increased 14.6% greater than that of methyl methacrylate grafted silk at the same degree of grafting polymerization. 3. The degree of grafting polymerization was increased mostly with ethylene glycol methacrylate. The water absorbability of ethylene glycol methacrylate grafted silk was higher than that of glycidyl methacrylate or ethyl acrylate grafted silk. But the grafted silk fabric increased the fabric flexural rigidity which was negatively related with the favorability of fabric hand-touch, as compared with that of nongrafted silk fabric. 4. The evenness of graft polymerization could be improved by agitating the polymerization bath at the fixed interval by reducing the inter size deviation of grafted silk skein and the thickness deviation of grafted silk fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.67-72
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• 1987

This study was carried out for the optimum predegumming in the protease degumming process of silk fabrics by ocmparing the physical properties of silk fabrics degummed with different weight losses of predegumming. 1. In twill habutai, the stiffness of fabric was reduced and the smoothness was improved with increasing weight loss of predegmming, however, the soft feeling value which means the total handle value of medium fabric for lady, was maximum at 20% of predegumming weight loss. 2. In the case of crepe de chine representing thin fabric for lady, the anti-drape stiffness was relatively increased with 22% weight loss of predegumming. However, the other physical properties, such as the flexibility with soft feeling were less related to the degrees of predegumming.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.861-871
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• 2014

This study explored applicability of natural dyeing and functional property of base paper using paper yarn and fabrics with green laver extracts. As a result of measuring dyeability and functional property of cotton, silk, and a blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, $60^{\circ}C$ and 40 minutes was the optimal dyeing condition for the cotton fabric under an alkali condition; $50^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for the silk fabric; $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 minutes for the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry. As a result of measuring the color fastness after dyeing cotton, silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, fastness to washing, water, rubbing, dry cleaning and light was superior. In terms of functional property, the silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry were superior concerning antimicrobial properties of the fabric dyed with green laver extracts while the cotton fabric showed 90% or over. Regarding deodorization, the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry was the most superior. All the fabrics were harmless to the human body as they had heavy metal content below the standard. Considering the research results comprehensively, the green laver extracts possibly has enough applicability and functional property as a natural dyes. Moreover, it has potential to be developed new eco-friendly fashion materials.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.28-39
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• 1985

The structural and useful characteristics of silk habutae treated with silicone resin by emulsion finishing method were studied. The results were obtained through crease recovery test, water repellency test, scanning micrograph observation, amino acid analysis, X-Ray diffraction analysis, and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy. The results are summarized as follows; 1) The improvement in crease recovery of silk habutae finished with silicone resin, was observed b soaping treatment and curing conditions. 2) The higher water repellency and stiffness in silk fabrics finished with silicone resin was found by the fabric inspection and the scanning electron microscopic observation. It is suggested that silicone resin impregnated into the void of silk fibroin. 3) The polar side chains of amino acid composition were decreased, when the silicone resin was treated on silk fibroin. 4) Through Amino acid analysis of silicone resin finished fibroin, the different amounts of amino acid composition was indicated due to silk fibroin silicone polymer reaction and the structural difference of its fibroin were also proved by X-ray diffractograms. 5) The functionality of the siloxane compound may be deduced from the silicone finished silk habutae by Fourier Transform Spectroscopy. It was concluded from the above results that the useful characteristics of silk fabric can be improved by silicone resin finishing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.119-132
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• 2016

Weighting of silk fabrics have long been practiced in silk fabric trading based on the primary consideration of price-weight, and secondary one of quality improvement in handle, luster, and drape properties. Recent trend of practicing weighting of silk fabrics is, however, focused on the improvement of the handle, luster, drape, and other properties. During the finishing processes of synthetic fiber, nylon, comprising amide structure, include the use of tannic acid, especially in the dyeing. A multitude of studies are being implemented in terms of improving fastness to washing, fastness to light of dyed nylon product, or the light fastness of nylon 6 itself. In this study, the effects of various tannic acid treatments on the physical properties related to the handle of nylon 6 and silk fabrics are examined and reviewed. The effects of treatment condition of the tannic acid, e.g., the concentration of the aqueous tannic acid solution, treatment time, and temperature were investigated. As the concentration of the aqueous solution of tannic acid increased, the bending rigidity values of the silk and nylon 6 fabrics increased. The treated fabrics felt stiff to the touch. Within the mild conditions of bending employed in the bending measurement of KES, nylon 6 treated fabric specimen exhibited a trend of improvement of bending resiliency within the range of small bending deformation. The weight of treated fabrics have all increased. The air-permeability values decreased as the treatment concentration increased. However, the decrease tendency of air permeability values may be alleviated by adjusting the fabric count during the tentering or expanding processes, either by tension adjustment or heat treatment. Optimum conditions of the treatment for nylon 6 are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1, and those for silk fabric treatment are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1. The treatment conditions will lead to the improvement in the properties of fabrics for summer.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.189-194
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• 2016

The objectives of this research were to study the effect of salt-shrinkage finishing of silk on shrinkage degree and dyeing property of cochineal, and to investigate the efficacy of obtained results for imparting surface design effect on silk fabric. Ultimately it was aimed to suggest a technical process for developing natural dyed silk products with diverse design. Premordanted silk fabric was treated with $Ca(NO_3)_2$ solution(gravity: 1.45) at $90^{\circ}C$ for 1 min, washed, dried for further evaluation. The shrinkage of salt-treated fabric was calculated. The effects of salt treatment on the dye uptake of cochineal and colorfastness were investigated. The degrees of shrinkage were 10% and 3% for warp and weft, respectively. The salt treatment resulted in improving dye uptake of cochineal slightly. In addition, it improved colorfastness to washing and light. On the basis of the results, a technical process composed of premordanting, salt treatment and natural dyeing was suggested and using the process, two examples of textile design were presented. It can be concluded to impart various three dimensional surface design effect on silk fabric by applying salt-shrinkage finishing with combination of natural dyeing and mordanting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.476-480
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• 2006

For the purpose of application to new natural dyestuff, the dyeability of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was analyzed. It was dyed in silk fabric according to various dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. And the effects of mordanting conditions were examined as color differences and color fastnesses. The maximum absorbance of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was at 521 nm. The dyeaffinities were increased gradually as were increased dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. The dyeaffinity was increased at pre-mordanted condition, and color difference was increased distinctly at post mordanted condition. The hues of mordanted silk fabrics were RP, P, PB, BG where as non mordanted silk fabric was R. Lightfastness was the best at pre-Sn mordanted and the worst at Post-Al mordanted. Washing and perspiration fastnesses were improved on pre and post-Sn mordanted.