• Title/Summary/Keyword: Shallow water wave

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Study on an USBL Positioning Algorithm in a Shallow Water Tank in Noisy Conditions (배경잡음이 존재하는 얕은 수조 내에서의 USBL 위치추적 알고리즘 적용 가능성 연구)

  • KIM SEA-MOON;LEE PAN-MOOK;LEE CHONG-MOO;LIM YONG-KON
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2004.11a
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    • pp.204-209
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    • 2004
  • It is well known fact that acoustic positioning systems are absolutely needed for various underwater operations. According to the distances between their sensors they are classified into three parts: long baseline(LBL), short baseline(SBL), and ultra-short baseline(USBL). Among them the USBL system is widely used because of its simplicity, although it is the most inaccurate. Recently, in order to increase the positioning accuracy, various USBL systems using broadband signal such as MFSK(Multiple Frequency Shift Keying) are produced. However, their positioning accuracy is still limited by background noise and reflected waves. Therefore, there is difficulty in applying the USBL system using MFSK signal in a shallow water with noisy conditions. In order to examine the effect of the noise and wave reflections this paper analyze position errors for various conditions using numerical simulations. The simulation results say that tile SNR must be greater than 20dB and errors in the vertical direction are slightly increased by wave reflections by upper and lower boundaries.

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Numerical Simulation of Dam-Break Problem Using SU/PG Scheme (SU/PG 기법을 이용한 댐붕괴 수치모의)

  • Seo, Il Won;Song, Chang Geun
    • 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2011.02a
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    • pp.198-198
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    • 2011
  • The numerical simulation of dam break problem suffers from several challenges in terms of accuracy, stability, and versatility of the simulation algorithm since the water flow is generally discontinuous and presents abrupt variations. Thus, to obtain stable and accurate solutions, flow models for this purpose require numerical schemes provided with shock-capturing properties, and with the ability to work with flexible two-dimensional meshes. In this context, SU/PG method(Hughes and Brooks, 1979) is excellent candidate for the solution of the dam break problem. The weak formulation of the equations and the discontinuous polynomial basis lead to an accurate representation of bore waves(shocks). Furthermore, the discretization of the domain in finite elements is extremely effective in modeling complex geometries. In this study, a finite element model based on the SU/PG scheme is developed to solve shallow water equations and the model is applied to dam break problem. It is found that the present model accurately captures the bore wave that propagates downstream while spreading laterally and the depression wave that moves upstream. Furthermore, the propagation and formation of water surface profile compared favorably with those obtained by the previously published results.

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A Study on the Methods to Improve High-Wave Reproducibility during Typhoon (태풍 내습 시의 고파 재현성 개선방안 연구)

  • Jong-Dai, Back;Kyong-Ho, Ryu;Jong-In, Lee;Weon-Mu, Jeong;Yeon-S., Chang
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.34 no.6
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    • pp.177-187
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    • 2022
  • This study estimates the design wave in the event of a typhoon attack at Busan new port using the wind field, the revised shallow water design wave estimation method proposed by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries in 2020, and proposed a reliable method of calculating the shallow water design through verification with the wave observation data. As a result of estimating typhoon wave using the wind field and SWAN numerical model, which are commonly used in the field work, for typhoon that affected Busan new port, it was found that reproducibility was not good except typhoons KONG-REY(1825) and MAYSAK(2009). In particular, in the case of typhoon MAEMI(0314), which had the greatest impact on Busan new port, the maximum significant wave height was estimated to be about 35.0% smaller than that of the observed wave data. Therefore, a plan to improve the reproducibility of typhoon wave was reviewed by applying the method of correcting the wind field and the method of using the Boussinesq equation numerical model, respectively. As a result of the review, it was found that the reproducibility of the wind field was not good as before when the wind field correction. However as a method of linking wind field data, SWAN model results, and Boussinesq numerical model, typhoon wave was estimated during typhoon MAEMI(0314), and the maximum significant wave was similar to the wave observations, so it was reviewed to have good reproducibility.

Linear Shallow Water Equations for Waves with Damping (파랑 에너지 감쇠가 있는 경우의 선형천수방정식)

  • Jung, Tae-Hwa;Lee, Chang-Hoon
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.24 no.1
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    • pp.10-15
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    • 2012
  • Wave characteristics in the presence of energy damping are investigated using the linear shallow water equations. To get the phase and energy velocities, geometric optics approach is used and then these values are validated through numerical experiments. Energy damping affects wave height, phase and energy velocities which result in wave transformation. When the complex wavenumber is used by the Eulerian approach, it is found that the phase velocity decreases as the damping increases while the energy velocity increases showing higher values than the phase velocity. When the complex angular frequency is used by the Lagrangian approach, the energy-damping wave group is found to propagate in the energy velocity. The energy velocity is found to affect shoaling and refraction coefficient which is verified through numerical experiments for waves on a plane slope.

Active Exchange of Water and Nutrients between Seawater and Shallow Pore Water in Intertidal Sandflats

  • Hwang, Dong-Woon;Kim, Gue-Buem;Yang, Han-Soeb
    • Ocean Science Journal
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    • v.43 no.4
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    • pp.223-232
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    • 2008
  • In order to determine the temporal and spatial variations of nutrient profiles in the shallow pore water columns (upper 30 cm depth) of intertidal sandflats, we measured the salinity and nutrient concentrations in pore water and seawater at various coastal environments along the southern coast of Korea. In the intertidal zone, salinity and nutrient concentrations in pore water showed marked vertical changes with depth, owing to the active exchange between the pore water and overlying seawater, while they are temporally more stable and vertically constant in the sublittoral zone. In some cases, the advective flow of fresh groundwater caused strong vertical gradients of salinity and nutrients in the upper 10 cm depth of surface sediments, indicating the active mixing of the fresher groundwater with overlying seawater. Such upper pore water column profiles clearly signified the temporal fluctuation of lower-salinity and higher-Si seawater intrusion into pore water in an intertidal sandflat near the mouth of an estuary. We also observed a semimonthly fluctuation of pore water nutrients due to spring-neap tide associated recirculation of seawater through the upper sediments. Our study shows that the exchange of water and nutrients between shallow pore water and overlying seawater is most active in the upper 20 cm layer of intertidal sandflats, due to physical forces such as tides, wave set-up, and density-thermal gradient.

Comparison of Local Scour around Pipeline Caused by Waves and Steady Currents (파랑 및 정상흐름에 의한 해저관로 주변의 국부세굴 특성 비교)

  • Kim, Kyoung-Ho;Oh, Hyoun-Sik
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.21-28
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    • 2011
  • The primary purpose of the present study was to investigate the mechanism causing scour around a pipeline placed on the seabed in a shallow water zone. Such submarine pipelines are usually exposed to currents and waves. The present experiments made estimates for each different flow type. The scour width and depth in the equilibrium scour phase were analyzed by non-dimensional parameters. The experiment in this study considered various parameters: pipe diameters, wave periods, wave heights, and current velocities. Using the experimental results, the correlations of scour width, scour depth, and main non-dimensional parameters such as the Fr number and KC number were analyzed. In the case of steady currents, the scour hole was closely related to the bottom velocity, while the scour hole in waves showed a relatively low correlation to the bottom velocity because when exposed to waves the scour hole was restricted according to the movement distance of the water particles during a wave period. However, the scour width under a steady current was not limited because vortex shedding was well developed from having enough time and distance.

The Effect of Directional Dispersion of Frequency Spectrum on the Joint Distribution of Wave Height, Period and Wave Direction (파고, 주기, 파향의 결합확율분포에 미치는 입사파랑의 방향분산성의 영향)

  • 권정곤
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.2 no.3
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    • pp.143-151
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    • 1990
  • The sediment transport in shallow water regions has been studied in various ways and, accordingly, many formulas have been proposed. However, when these formulas are applied practically in the field, they are not sufficient to fully estimate the sediment transport rate yet. The primary reason is how to take into account the effect of irregularities of field waves : wave heights, periods and directions. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate stochastic and kinematic characteristics of waves in three dimensional random seas in order to more accurately estimate it. In particular, the asymmetrical properties of directional spectrum become significant and play an important role in various phenomena in a shallow water region. In this study, their effects of incident waves the joint distribution of wave heights, periods and directions are investigated through field measurements.

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Analytical Rapid Prediction of Tsunami Run-up Heights: Application to 2010 Chilean Tsunami

  • Choi, Byung Ho;Kim, Kyeong Ok;Yuk, Jin-Hee;Kaistrenko, Victor;Pelinovsky, Efim
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • v.37 no.1
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2015
  • An approach based on the combined use of a 2D shallow water model and analytical 1D long wave run-up theory is proposed which facilitates the forecasting of tsunami run-up heights in a more rapid way, compared with the statistical or empirical run-up ratio method or resorting to complicated coastal inundation models. Its application is advantageous for long-term tsunami predictions based on the modeling of many prognostic tsunami scenarios. The modeling of the Chilean tsunami on February 27, 2010 has been performed, and the estimations of run-up heights are found to be in good agreement with available observations.

Numerical Analysis on the Development of an Undularbore (Undular Bore의 발생과정에 관한 수치 해석)

  • Bea, Heon-Meen;Kim, In-Chull
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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    • v.22 no.2
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    • pp.31-35
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    • 1986
  • A bore is a transition between different uniform flows of water. If a long wave of elevation travels in shallow water it steepens and forms a bore. The bore is undular if the change in surface elevation of the wave is less than 0.28 of the original depth of water. This paper describes the growth of an undular bore from a long wave which forms a gentle transition between a uniform flow and still water. A physical account of its development is followed by the results of numerical calculations. Finite-difference approximations are used in the partial differential equations of motion. For undular bores, numerical calculations show that (i) the relationship between relative elevation and relative velocity given by long wave theory is approached for an undular bore, (ii) the amplitude of first crest of an undular bore approaches a finite limit approximately at an exponential rate, and (iii) the distance between the first two crests increases without bound, approximately logarithmically.

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Propagation of tidal wave and resulted tidal asymmetry upward tidal rivers (감조하천에서 조석 전파 및 조석비대칭)

  • Kang, Ju Whan;Cho, Hong-Yeon
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.54 no.6
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    • pp.433-442
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    • 2021
  • In order to examine the characteristics of tidal wave from the estuary to upsteam of tidal river, tidal asymmetry was identified based on analysis of the harmonic constants of M2 and M4 tidal constituents in the domestic western coastal regions. As shallow water tide is greatly developed in the estuary, flood dominance in Han River and Keum River, and ebb dominance in Youngsan River are developed. These tidal asymmetries can be reconfirmed by analyzing the tidal current data. Unlike having reciprocating tidal current patterns in Keum and Youngsan estuaries, rotaing tidal current pattern is shown in the Han River estuary due to the complex topography and waterways around Ganghwa Island area. However, when residual current is removed, flood dominance is shown in consistency with the tide data. The tidal asymmetry in the estuary tends to intensify with the growth in shallow water tide as the tidal wave propagates to upstream of tidal river. Energy dissipation, in shallow Han River and Keum River classified as SD estuaries, is very large regarding bottom friction characteristics. On the other hand, the deep Youngsan River, classified as a WD estuary, shows less energy dissipation.