• Title/Summary/Keyword: Shallow water wave

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Underwater Acoustic Communication Link Analysis (수중음향통신 링크 해석)

  • Choi, Young-Chol;Byun, Sung-Hoon;Lim, Yong-Kon
    • Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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    • v.11 no.8
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    • pp.1465-1471
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    • 2007
  • The electro-magnetic wave propagates through the air in the terrestrial communications, but the acoustic wave propagates through the seawater in the underwater acoustic communication(UAC). It makes the differences between the UAC link and the well hon air communication links. In this paper, we have studied path loss, absorption and ambient noise of the ocean as a medium for UAC. We have analyzed the absorption coefficient and ambient noise level of the coastal area of South Korea and suggested a strategy for the selection of the frequency band by considering the absorption coefficient and ambient noise level. Also, we present an illustrative example of a link budget for the QPSK UAC system which has carrier frequency 25kHz, bit rate 10kbps, range 1km and BER $10^{-3}$ in the shallow water environment with an ideal AWGN assumption.

Nonlinear Transformation of Long Waves at a Bottom Step (해저단에서의 장파의 비선형 변형)

  • Mrichina, Nina R.;Pelinovsky, Efim N.
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.4 no.3
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    • pp.161-167
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    • 1992
  • We consider the preparation of long finite amplitude nondispersive waves over a step bottom between two regions of finite different depths. Two dimensional motion is assumed. with the wave crests parallel to the step, and irrotational flow in the inviscid fluid is considered. To describe the transformation of finite amplitude waves we use the finite-amplitude shallow-water equations, the conditions of mass flow conservation and pressure continuity at the cut above the step in Riemann's variables. The equations define four families of curves-characteristics on which the values of the Riemann's invariants remain constant and a system of two nonlinear equations that relates the amplitudes of incident reflected and transmitted waves. The system obtained is difficult to analyze in common form. Thus we consider some special cases having practical usage for tsunami waves. The results obtained are compared with the long wave theory and significant nonlinear effects are found even for quite small amplitude waves.

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A Mathematical Model of Return Flow outside the Surf Zone (쇄파대(碎波帶) 밖에서 return flow의 수학적(數學的) 모형(模型))

  • Lee, Jong Sup;Park, II Heum
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.355-365
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    • 1994
  • An analytical model of return flow is presented outside the surf zone. The governing equation is derived from the Navier-Stokes equation and the continuity. Each term of the governing equation is evaluated by the ordering analysis. Then the infinitesimal terms, i.e. the turbulent normal stress, the squared vertical velocity of water particle and the streaming velocity, are neglected. The driving forces of return flow are calculated using the linear wave theory for the shallow water approximation. Especially, the space derivative of local wave heights is described considering a shoaling coefficient. The vertical distribution of eddy viscosity is discussed to the customary types which are the constant, the linear function and the exponential function. Each coefficient of the eddy viscosities which sensitively affect the precision of solutions is uniquely decided from the additional boundary condition which the velocity becomes zero at the wave trough level. Also the boundary conditions at the bottom and the continuity relation are used in the integration of the governing equation. The theoretical solutions of present model are compared with the various experimental results. The solutions show a good agreement with the experimental results in the case of constant or exponential function type eddy viscosity.

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Surface Elevation Recovery Methods from Pressure Gage for Irregular Waves (불규칙파(不規則波에) 대한 압력식(壓力式) 파고계(波高計)의 적용성(適用性)에 관한 연구(研究))

  • Kwon, Jung Gon;Kang, Ju Bok
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.12 no.4_1
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    • pp.129-136
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    • 1992
  • A precedure for recovering surface displacement from a time series of pressure measured by a pressure gage in a shallow water (that is, FFTM, LCM. IWM) is investigated with respect to a proper cut-off-frequency of a frequency response function for the accurate recovery of wave height and period. The authors examined the applicability of above mentioned three transformation procedures through field observations and laboratory experiments and the following results are obtained. i) The cut-off-frequency of the frequency response function used in FFTM is deeply depend on both the frequency response of the pressure sensor and the water depth at the sensor. In this study, a relatively accurate surface displacement can be recovered when the frequency response function is cut off at the frequency corresponding to kh=3.0 where k is a wave number at the depth of h. The frequency response function in the region higher than the cut-off-frequency is set constant to be the value at the cut-off-frequency. ii) The transformed surface displacements by LCM are affected by the small waves of short periods included in the measured pressure. It is found that pressure variation whose local frequency is higher than kh=1.5 has to be neglected to recover surface displacement sufficiently. iii) In IWM, the linear pressure response function is usually utilized by multiplying a coefficient N which is a function of the frequency (or kh) and takes a value around unity. However, in this study, a constant value of N(=1.0) gives a relatively accurate recovery of surface displacements.

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Characteristics and Formation conditions of the Rhodoliths in Wu Island beach, Jeju-do, Korea: Preliminary Report (제주도 우도의 홍조단괴 해빈 퇴적물의 특징과 형성조건 : 예비연구 결과)

  • 김진경;우경식;강순석
    • The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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    • v.8 no.4
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    • pp.401-410
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    • 2003
  • Three beaches of the Seogwang-ri coast in the western part of Wu Island, Jeju-do, are solely composed of rhodoliths (red algal nodules). The beach sediments are coarse sand to granule in size and they show the banded distribution according to size. Commonly the larger pebble-sized rhodoliths are concentrated near the rocky coast, resulting from the transportation of the nodules from shallow marine environments by intermittent typhoons. Based on the internal texture of the rhodoliths, it appears that crustose red algae, Lithophyllum sp., is the main contributor for the formation of the rhodolith. The coarse sand to granule-sized grains show that they started to grow from the nucleus as rhodoliths, but the surface was severely eroded by waves. However, the pebble to cobble-sized grains exhibit the complete growth pattern of rhodoliths and sometimes contain other calcareous skeletons. It is common that encrusting red algae are intergrown with encrusting bryozoan. The surface morphology of rhodolith tends to change from the concentric to domal shape towards the outer part. This suggests that the rhodolith grew to a certain stage by rolling, but it grew in more quiet condition without rolling as it became larger. Aragonite and calcite cements can be found in the pores within rhodoliths (conceptacle, intraskeletal pore in bryozoan, and boring), and this means that shallow marine cementation has occurred during their growth. Growth of numerous rhodoliths in shallow marine environment near the Seogwang-ri coast indicates that this area has suitable oceanographic conditions for their growth such as warm water temperature (about 19$^{\circ}C$ in average) and clear water condition due to the lack of terrestrial input of volcanoclastic sediments. Fast tidal current and high wave energy in the shallow water setting can provide suitable conditions enough for their rolling and growth. Typhoons passing this area every summer also influence on the growth of rhodoliths.

A Study on Seasonal Variation of Propagation Loss in the Yellow Sea Using Broadband Source of Low Frequency (황해에서 저주파 광대역 음원을 이용한 전달손실의 계절변동 연구)

  • 김봉채;최복경
    • The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.213-220
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    • 2002
  • The sound wave in the sea propagates under the effect of water depth, sound velocity structure, sea surface and bottom roughness, and bottom sediment distribution. In particular the sound velocity structure in shallow water varies with time and space, an? the sediment distributes very variedly with place. In order to investigate the seasonal variation of low-frequency sound propagation in the Yellow Sea, the propagation experiments were conducted along the same track in the middle part of the Yellow Sea at various seasons of spring. summer, and autumn. In this paper we consider the measurement results on the propagation loss with the sound velocity structure, and investigate the seasonal variation of the propagation loss. As a result, the propagation losses measured in summer were larger than the losses in spring and autumn. And the propagation losses measured in autumn were smaller than the losses in spring. The seasonal change of the propagation loss increased with the rise of sound frequency and the propagation range.

Wintertime Extreme Storm Waves in the East Sea: Estimation of Extreme Storm Waves and Wave-Structure Interaction Study in the Fushiki Port, Toyama Bay (동해의 동계 극한 폭풍파랑: 토야마만 후시키항의 극한 폭풍파랑 추산 및 파랑 · 구조물 상호작용 연구)

  • Lee, Han Soo;Komaguchi, Tomoaki;Yamamoto, Atsushi;Hara, Masanori
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.25 no.5
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    • pp.335-347
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    • 2013
  • In February 2008, high storm waves due to a developed atmospheric low pressure system propagating from the west off Hokkaido, Japan, to the south and southwest throughout the East Sea (ES) caused extensive damages along the central coast of Japan and along the east coast of Korea. This study consists of two parts. In the first part, we estimate extreme storm wave characteristics in the Toyama Bay where heavy coastal damages occurred, using a non-hydrostatic meteorological model and a spectral wave model by considering the extreme conditions for two factors for wind wave growth, such as wind intensity and duration. The estimated extreme significant wave height and corresponding wave period were 6.78 m and 18.28 sec, respectively, at the Fushiki Toyama. In the second part, we perform numerical experiments on wave-structure interaction in the Fushiki Port, Toyama Bay, where the long North-Breakwater was heavily damaged by the storm waves in February 2008. The experiments are conducted using a non-linear shallow-water equation model with adaptive mesh refinement (AMR) and wet-dry scheme. The estimated extreme storm waves of 6.78 m and 18.28 sec are used for incident wave profile. The results show that the Fushiki Port would be overtopped and flooded by extreme storm waves if the North-Breakwater does not function properly after being damaged. Also the storm waves would overtop seawalls and sidewalls of the Manyou Pier behind the North-Breakwater. The results also depict that refined meshes by AMR method with wet-dry scheme applied capture the coastline and coastal structure well while keeping the computational load efficiently.

Field Observations of Spatial Structure of Hydrodynamics Including Waves and Currents in the Haeundae Coast (해운대의 파랑 및 흐름 구조의 특성파악을 위한 현장 관측실험)

  • Do, Kideok;Yoo, Jeseon;Lee, Hee Jun;Do, Jong-Dae;Jin, Jae-Youll
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.27 no.4
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    • pp.228-237
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    • 2015
  • Field observations were conducted to collect hydrodynamic and morphological data, which are needed to account for mechanisms of bathymetry changes caused by physical forcings, in Haeundae beach. In order to quantitatively describe characteristics of wave transformations and current patterns in space in winter and summer, in-situ sensors for measuring waves and current profiles were installed at three locations in the cross-shore direction and also three locations in the along-shore direction. As for the results of wave measurements, waves with main direction from the east dominate in winter while waves are incident from the S and the ESE in summer. Analysis of current data reveals that currents over the study domain are considerably influenced by a pattern of tidal motions, thereby, mainly oscillating in the direction of tidal currents, i.e., east-west directions, in both winter and summer. Currents tend to be influenced by local bathymetry in the shallow water region, with the direction changed along the depth contours and the magnitude reduced as they approach the shoreline. The results analysed from the hydrodynamic data through this study can be further combined with the morphological and bathymetry data, leading to the quantification of seasonal sediment transport rates and sand budget changes.

Sea Surface Temperature Time Lag Due to the Extreme Heat Wave of August 2016 (2016년 8월 폭염에 따른 표층수온의 지연시간 고찰)

  • Kim, Ju-Yeon;Han, In-Seong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.677-683
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    • 2017
  • In this study, we examined responses to Sea Surface Temperature (SST) as the result of an intensive heat wave that took place in August 2016 and the cross correlation between SST and Air Temperature (AT) in August 2016. The data used included the SST of 8 ocean buoys, provided by the National Institute of Fisheries Science, and the AT of AWS near those 8 ocean buoys recorded every hour. To identify an appropriate data period, on FIR filter was applied. Two locations in the south sea were selected to be observed over similar a period, with a high correlation coefficient of about 0.8 and a time lag of about 50 hours between AT and SST. For the yellow sea, due to shallow waters and tidal currents, SST showed a rapid response caused by changes in AT. The east sea showed a negative correlation between AT and SST because of significant water depth and marine environment factors. By identifying the time lag between AT and SST, damage to aquatic organisms can be minimized, and we expect to develop a rapid response system for damage to the fishery industry caused by extreme heat waves.

Study of Crustal Structure in North Korea Using 3D Velocity Tomography (3차원 속도 토모그래피를 이용한 북한지역의 지각구조 연구)

  • So Gu Kim;Jong Woo Shin
    • The Journal of Engineering Geology
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    • v.13 no.3
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    • pp.293-308
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    • 2003
  • New results about the crustal structure down to a depth of 60 km beneath North Korea were obtained using the seismic tomography method. About 1013 P- and S-wave travel times from local earthquakes recorded by the Korean stations and the vicinity were used in the research. All earthquakes were relocated on the basis of an algorithm proposed in this study. Parameterization of the velocity structure is realized with a set of nodes distributed in the study volume according to the ray density. 120 nodes located at four depth levels were used to obtain the resulting P- and S-wave velocity structures. As a result, it is found that P- and S-wave velocity anomalies of the Rangnim Massif at depth of 8 km are high and low, respectively, whereas those of the Pyongnam Basin are low up to 24 km. It indicates that the Rangnim Massif contains Archean-early Lower Proterozoic Massif foldings with many faults and fractures which may be saturated with underground water and/or hot springs. On the other hand, the Pyongyang-Sariwon in the Pyongnam Basin is an intraplatform depression which was filled with sediments for the motion of the Upper Proterozoic, Silurian and Upper Paleozoic, and Lower Mesozoic origin. In particular, the high P- and S-wave velocity anomalies are observed at depth of 8, 16, and 24 km beneath Mt. Backdu, indicating that they may be the shallow conduits of the solidified magma bodies, while the low P-and S-wave velocity anomalies at depth of 38 km must be related with the magma chamber of low velocity bodies with partial melting. We also found the Moho discontinuities beneath the Origin Basin including Sari won to be about 55 km deep, whereas those of Mt. Backdu is found to be about 38 km. The high ratio of P-wave velocity/S-wave velocity at Moho suggests that there must be a partial melting body near the boundary of the crust and mantle. Consequently we may well consider Mt. Backdu as a dormant volcano which is holding the intermediate magma chamber near the Moho discontinuity. This study also brought interesting and important findings that there exist some materials with very high P- and S-wave velocity annomoalies at depth of about 40 km near Mt. Myohyang area at the edge of the Rangnim Massif shield.