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Field Observations of Spatial Structure of Hydrodynamics Including Waves and Currents in the Haeundae Coast

해운대의 파랑 및 흐름 구조의 특성파악을 위한 현장 관측실험

  • Do, Kideok (Coastal Disaster Research Center, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology) ;
  • Yoo, Jeseon (Coastal Disaster Research Center, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology) ;
  • Lee, Hee Jun (Marine Geology & Geophysics Division, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology) ;
  • Do, Jong-Dae (Coastal Disaster Research Center, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology) ;
  • Jin, Jae-Youll (Coastal Disaster Research Center, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology)
  • 도기덕 (한국해양과학기술원 연안재해.재난연구센터) ;
  • 유제선 (한국해양과학기술원 연안재해.재난연구센터) ;
  • 이희준 (한국해양과학기술원 지질.물리연구본부) ;
  • 도종대 (한국해양과학기술원 연안재해.재난연구센터) ;
  • 진재율 (한국해양과학기술원 연안재해.재난연구센터)
  • Received : 2015.07.28
  • Accepted : 2015.08.19
  • Published : 2015.08.31

Abstract

Field observations were conducted to collect hydrodynamic and morphological data, which are needed to account for mechanisms of bathymetry changes caused by physical forcings, in Haeundae beach. In order to quantitatively describe characteristics of wave transformations and current patterns in space in winter and summer, in-situ sensors for measuring waves and current profiles were installed at three locations in the cross-shore direction and also three locations in the along-shore direction. As for the results of wave measurements, waves with main direction from the east dominate in winter while waves are incident from the S and the ESE in summer. Analysis of current data reveals that currents over the study domain are considerably influenced by a pattern of tidal motions, thereby, mainly oscillating in the direction of tidal currents, i.e., east-west directions, in both winter and summer. Currents tend to be influenced by local bathymetry in the shallow water region, with the direction changed along the depth contours and the magnitude reduced as they approach the shoreline. The results analysed from the hydrodynamic data through this study can be further combined with the morphological and bathymetry data, leading to the quantification of seasonal sediment transport rates and sand budget changes.

본 연구에서는 사질 해안인 해운대 해수욕장을 대상으로 수리 퇴적 작용의 동적구조 규명에 필요한 현장 관측실험을 수행하였다. 연안에서 발생하는 계절별 파랑 및 수리 현상을 정량적으로 파악하기 위하여, 동계 및 하계 집중 관측기간 중 해안선의 법선 방향으로 3개 정점 및 해안선 방향으로 3개 정점 등 공간적으로 여러 정점에 파랑 및 층별 유속 관측장비를 설치하였다. 파랑 관측자료의 분석결과, 동계에는 동해안으로부터 입사하는 E계열 파랑이 대부분이며, 하계에는 S계열과 ESE 계열이 공존하는 분포를 가지고 있다. 대상 해역에서 유속의 공간적분포는 전체적으로 주 흐름방향이 동계와 하계에 조석운동의 영향으로 동서방향으로 형성되어 있다. 심해역에서 천해역로 갈수록 연안지형의 영향으로, 유속의 세기는 약해지며 유속의 방향은 해안선 및 등수심선과 나란하게 변형되어 나타나고 있다. 본 연구를 통하여 제시된 파랑 및 흐름 등 수리특성에 관한 기초 분석자료는 동 기간에서 측정된 모래이동량 및 지형변화 관측자료와 연계하여, 대상 해역의 침퇴적 정도를 정량적으로 산출하는데 활용될 수 있다.

Keywords

References

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  2. Haeundae Beach in Korea: Seasonal-to-decadal wave statistics and impulsive beach responses to typhoons vol.51, pp.4, 2016, https://doi.org/10.1007/s12601-016-0053-5
  3. Numerical Simulation of Winter Waves and Currents in the Haeundae Coast using 2DH Model vol.28, pp.6, 2016, https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2016.28.6.350
  4. Late Holocene Shallow Marine Sand Sheet in the Haeundae Coast, Korea pp.2005-7172, 2018, https://doi.org/10.1007/s12601-018-0063-6