• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• 제13권1_2호
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• pp.53-65
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• 2003

Here we present a study of small-amplitude, shallow water waves on sloping beds. The beds considered in this analysis are linear and quadratic in nature. First we start with stating the relevant governing equations and boundary conditions for the theory of water waves. Once the complete prescription of the water-wave problem is available based on some assumptions (like inviscid, irrotational flow), we normalize it by introducing a suitable set of non-dimensional variables and then we scale the variables with respect to the amplitude parameter. This helps us to characterize the various types of approximation. In the process, a summary of equations that represent different approximations of the water-wave problem is stated. All the relevant equations are presented in rectangular Cartesian coordinates. Then we derive the equations and boundary conditions for small-amplitude and shallow water waves. Two specific types of bed are considered for our calculations. One is a bed with constant slope and the other bed has a quadratic form of surface. These are solved by using separation of variables method.

• 한국수자원학회논문집
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.429-438
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• 2005

본 연구에서는 Boussinesq 방정식을 이용하여, 불규칙 파랑의 직접적인 해석이 가능한 한 쌍의 상미분방정식을 유도하였다. 입사파랑은 TMA(TEXEL storm, MARSEN, ARSLOE) 천해 스펙트럼을 이용하여 재현하였으며, 지배방정식은 4차 Runge-Kutta 법을 이용하여 적분하였다. 새로 유도된 파랑 방정식을 이용하여, 일정 수심을 진행하는 파랑의 비선형 에너지 교환효과를 계산하였다. 또한, 일정 경사면의 정현파형 지형을 통과하는 불규칙파랑의 특성에 관해 수치적으로 검토하였다. 비선형성이 불규칙파랑의 통과와 반사에 큰 영향을 주었다.

• 산업기술연구
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• 제21권B호
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• pp.175-185
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• 2001

A numerical model is represented to calculate the reflected waves, the runup of waves and the wave induced velocities on impermeable slopes for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results, the measured data and asymptotic results. It is found that the uprushing and downrushing of incident waves may be accurately predicted by the present numerical model. Therefore, the present numerical model can be applicable to swells as well as long waves.

• 한국수자원학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국수자원학회 2003년도 학술발표회논문집(2)
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• pp.1063-1066
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• 2003

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2007

While a typhoon is traveling, characteristics of its wind fields are continuously changing, producing severe changes in local water level and wave conditions, especially, when a typhoon comes into shallow water. However, there have not been many studies related to local typhoon effects, especially, considering real time changes of wind direction related to the coastal topography. In the study, the characteristics of the wind field by typhoon and topographical characteristics in shallow water are considered, as well as conditions of wave climate estimation. These are performed by the SWAN (Simulating waves nearshore) model, in order to estimate the growth of wave energy due to the wind field. It can be strongly suggested that the wave energy of theof an inner bay should be estimated when the direction of the bay entrance and the wind direction of the typhoon are identical. The result of the numerical calculations is in better agreement with the observed data than the result of the conventional estimation techniques.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.69-74
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• 2008

This study performed a numerical simulation to predict the development of ship waves and their propagation in the shallow water region of Gunzang New Port and to examine the stability of taut line mooring at the sea wall using the design criteria. In order to predict the propagation of ship waves based on the speeds of various ships under complicated and shallow water depths, a computer model was constructed based on the Boussinesque equation with a fixed coordinate system. Additionally, an investigation if the stability was made by applying MOSES under the environmental loadings estimated by OCIMF.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.343-351
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 강릉 해수욕장 전면에서 20년간 관측된 파랑자료의 극치분석을 통하여 재현빈도 10, 20, 30 및 50년의 천해설계파를 도출하였다. 이들을 수산청(1988) 및 한국해양연구원(2005)에 제시된 강릉 해역에 대한 재현빈도별 심해파 조건을 경계조건으로 천해파 모델인 SWAN을 사용하여 관측지점에서의 파고를 구한 값과 비교하였다. 그 결과 이러한 기존의 심해파 조건들로 계산한 강릉 해역의 천해파고는 관측치에 비해 상당히 작게 제시되었으며 그 차이는 재현빈도의 증가에 따라 커지는 것을 확인하였다. 한국해양연구원은 이전보다 상세한 격자와 WAM 모델을 사용하여 2004년 1월부터 2008년 8월까지의 역추산 자료를 생성하였으며, 이를 천해역의 관측 자료와 비교한 결과 1979~2003년의 자료에 비해 동계 폭풍파의 재현성이 크게 향상되었음을 확인하였다. 앞으로 2004년 이전에 대해서도 상세 격자와 WAM 모델을 사용한 역추산 자료의 생성 및 이를 사용한 심해파의 보완 작업이 필요한 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.21-28
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• 2011

The primary purpose of the present study was to investigate the mechanism causing scour around a pipeline placed on the seabed in a shallow water zone. Such submarine pipelines are usually exposed to currents and waves. The present experiments made estimates for each different flow type. The scour width and depth in the equilibrium scour phase were analyzed by non-dimensional parameters. The experiment in this study considered various parameters: pipe diameters, wave periods, wave heights, and current velocities. Using the experimental results, the correlations of scour width, scour depth, and main non-dimensional parameters such as the Fr number and KC number were analyzed. In the case of steady currents, the scour hole was closely related to the bottom velocity, while the scour hole in waves showed a relatively low correlation to the bottom velocity because when exposed to waves the scour hole was restricted according to the movement distance of the water particles during a wave period. However, the scour width under a steady current was not limited because vortex shedding was well developed from having enough time and distance.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.511-520
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• 2007

심해역 파랑모형인 WAM에 쇄파와 삼파 상호작용을 추가하여 모형의 적용영역을 천해역으로 확장하였다. 모형의 검증을 위해 영일만에서의 파랑변형 모의를 수행하였고, 수치모의된 파랑자료는 영일만 입구 1개소와 영일만 내부 2개소의 관측 결과와 양호한 일치를 보여주었다. 수치모의 결과를 보면, 영일만 입구에서 입사되는 파랑은 영일만 내부로 진입하는 과정에서 바닥에 의한 에너지 감쇠와 쇄파 작용 등으로 인해 파고의 점진적 감소가 나타나고, 파향은 주로 NE 계열로 입사되어 연안 근처에서는 굴절 효과로 인해 해안에 대해서 수직한 방향으로 진행하는 경향을 보여주었다.