• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the relations between Pop Art and pop music, which formed a serious coupling loop in an identical cultural background. Also this study intends to set up a position of visualized sexual identity as it Points out the conceptional characteristics of glam, a subculture outside mainstream, which includes the matters of sexual minorities such as homosexuality and bisexuality under the influence of the aesthetic and philosophical composition by Andy Warhol. In conjunction herewith, we explore the visual representation of glam style focusing on the influence of Warhol. The classification and explanation about the visual representation of glam style under the influence of Warhol are practised by distinguishing as denotative representation and connotative representation. For the denotative representation shown in the glum style, first, the discordant images were put together by bricolage, then adapted into the new dramatic symbol of youth. Second, through a visually androgynous style a subversion of sex for symbols of sexuality and gender was represented. Third, the factitiveness as a weird display and fallacy is shown from boisterous make-up and unisex sかling in theatricality and put-ons, featuring artificiality, assemblage and unnaturality. And the connaotative representation shown in glum inglam style, first, glam style implies its experimental nature which attempts to break down boundaries between masculinity and femininity, homosexuality and heterosex-uality. Second, the bricolage in sequin and other discordant elements have connotative meanings as sensuality and excessiveness. Third, mixing various style as sexual play shows ironic visual images, in accordance with Superior Theory and Discord Theory.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.14-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to come up with a perspective that can enhance the understanding about the mechanism of fashion change. The starting idea of this study is that fashion has changed according to the ideal body image of the specific society or individual. The theoretical framework about the ideal body image has been studied by the literatures on the subject and it is verified by the analysis of John Galliano & Martin Margiela's fashion works. The results are as follows. First, Galliano exposes the woman's body as a sexual symbol which is articulated by men's eyes. Margiela describes the woman's body as human being which doesn't highlight any sexual characteristics. Second, Galliano emphasizes the body conscious silhouette whereas Margiela perceives the body as a whole, rather than looks into each body part. Third, Galliano uses lots of decoration to make display luxurious. Margiela restrains himself from using decorations and tries to create images by interaction between the clothes and bodies. Forth, Galliano expresses the eroticism by accentuating eyes and lips with strong color cosmetics. Margiela's fashion is not dazzling with makeup. He even covers the face with fabrics. Aesthetics in all societies is articulated by their hidden social power groups, and then it has influence on taking shape of the ideal body image and the mainstream of fashion. But the innate characters of individuals offer challenges to the fashion majority. The tension between the social power and individual character makes and changes the fashion.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.163-180
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• 1998

In western clothing, woman's body was port-rayed sexually as the distinction of sex was appeared, and the parts of body contain some kind of symbol of sex. Woman's body was diversly accentuated according to the divers ideal beauty concepts pursuits in the different periods. Today, in a Post-industrial Society whose social structure is very divers and complicated, the interpretation of woman's body reveals so various as the complex social structure. The purpose of this study is to comprehend the various interpretations of woman's body in the contemporary clothing. The concrete purposes of this study is as follows. First, this study is to define the concept of natural body and built body by differentiating the parts of body and searching for the sexual symbols accentuated in the western clothing. Second this study aims to review, the histori-cal process of prejudged distinction of sex in the western clothing, and to analyse the con-temporary sociocultural which forced to change this prejudged distinction of sex. Third, on the bases of this analses, this study also aims to present various interpretation on divers aspects of woman's body portrayed in the contemporary clothing. The interpretation of woman's body in the contemporary clothing were as follow. First, it is a body interpreted as a natural and neutral body which is based not so much on prejudged division of sex as on the expression of the body structure. And, it is a decomposed and recomposed body which is based on plastic principles. This body is portrayed by a layer-ing and wrapping which interrogated such traditional symbols of western clothing as collar, sleeve or trousers, skirt, etc. Second, it is a sexually symbolized body. This body is display-ed by exposure or sexual accentuation in the clothing. To conclude, a body interpreted in the contemporary clothing is no more a body accentuated by division of sex, but a body which per-mits indefinite hypotheses and interpretations under synthetic imagination.

• 생명과학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.72-81
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• 2004

TBTCl(0.1, 0.32, 1, 3.2, 10, 25, 32, 50, 75 및 100 $\mug/l$)을 구피에게 144시간 동안 노출시켜 TBTCl의 구피 생체 내 축적정도 및 구피의 번식과 행동에 미치는 영향에 대해서 조사하였다. 0.1 $\mug/l$ 이상의 모든 TBTCl 실험군에서 $\SigmaBTs\; (TBT:\SigmaBTs)$가 67% 이상으로 매우 높았고, 고농도 실험군일수록 이 비율이 높아져, 고농도의 TBTCl에 노출될수록 구피의 대사능력이 저해됨을 알 수 있었다. 또한 TBTCl은 구피의 번식력을 약화시키고 행동이상을 유발함이 밝혀졌다. 즉, 0.1$\mug/l$의 실험군부터 수컷의 구애행동과 수출관 내 정포의 수가 감소되었고, 0.32∼10 $\mug/l$의 실험군에서는 정소 내 전체 생식세포낭에 대한 정포낭의 수도 점차 감소하여 TBTCl이 정자변태 과정에 영향을 미치는 내분비계 장애물질로서 작용하고 있음이 시사되었다. 더욱이 25 $\mug/l$이상의 고농도군에서는 단기간 내에 치사율이 증가하고, 생식세포가 괴사되고, 정소의 지지세포와 수출관 내의 상피세포가 상해되고, 유영행동 이상이 급증하고, 섭식이 중단되는 등 급성독성이 관찰되어, TBTCl이 구피의 번식 뿐 아니라 생존을 저해하고 있음이 시사되었다.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제14권7호
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• pp.58-69
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• 2014

본 연구는 국내 뮤직비디오에 나타난 성역할 고정관념의 재현과 구성방식을 알아보기 위해 젠더 이미지 및 선정성 유형과 관련하여 내용분석을 시도했다. 이를 위해 2004년부터 2013년까지의 각 연도별로 뮤직비디오가 있는 30위까지의 노래 총 300개와 각 노래의 뮤직비디오 상에서 주요 역할을 하는 남녀 한명씩, 총 517명의 등장인물이 선정되었다. 등장인물에 대한 성역할 고정관념은 노래 장르와 성별로 구분하여 젠더 이미지의 유형과 선정성(신체노출, 성적표현)의 유무로 측정되었다. 젠더 이미지는 여성은 고전적 이미지가 가장 많이 나타났고 남성은 순정적 이미지가 가장 많이 나타났다. 여성의 이미지는 거의 변화가 없었고 남성 이미지의 경우 중성적 이미지는 가장 적었으나 증가하는 추세를 보여주었다. 고전적 이미지가 가장 많이 나타난 장르는 R&B와 발라드였고 순정적 이미지가 가장 많이 나타난 장르는 발라드, R&B와 록이었다. 선정성은 댄스곡과 힙합에서 더 많이 나타났다. 신체노출에 있어서 여성은 모든 부위에서 남성보다 더 높은 비율로 나타났다. 성적표현에 있어서 여성은 표정유혹이 남성은 성적자세가 상대적으로 많이 나타나 성역할 고정관념이 뚜렷하게 나타났다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.71-87
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• 2007

Main role to expand the fashion in the middle age was played by aristocracy and knight. They contributed to the fashion of the middle age regardless of aesthetic sense. First, in any age, there was a self-display design using splendid decoration or material in the costume of high-class people. Aristocracy, especially, knight in the middle age classified themselves from others by wearing the costume suitable for their statuses. Second, the Crusade knight appearing all over the cinema gathered various peoples and caused acute optic angle about specialty of costume. Therefore the trend preferring foreign costumes was changed to new fashion while it was connected to desire searching for a change. Third, although armor of knight was created because of protection in the war, in the 13th century, its character of motion and defense was emphasized and it became splendid style. More over, the costume of knight was developed to more emphasize masculine beauty with heavy upper body and light lower body so it caused sexual difference of costume in the middle age. Fourth, As knight searched effective defensive weapon, chain mail was relegated by plate armor. The order of armor that the hight wore in 1350 was as follows. First, he wears adhesive shirts, braies, hose and wears metal protector on arm and leg. He wears padded undercoat called gambeson, hauberk, plate armor and surcoat on them.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.1-14
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• 1990

The purpose of this paper was to examine the relationship between Surrealism and Schiaparelli's fashion design in the 1930s. Surrealism, derived from Dadaism, was based on Freud's analysis of dream imagery and human sexual behavior. Its style was characterized by the partial figure and the dislocation of body part, and the placement of the figure and its part in unanticipated settings. The objective of Surrealism was to exploit the unconsciousness and the interpretation of the body became an abiding. Surrealists were interested in the nature of clothing and in the specific characteristic of fashion, so, they moved into the world of fashion; fashion advertising window display and fashion photograph. The fantasy of Surrealism stimulated Schiaparelli to use wit and shock tactics, bold and unusual combination of colors, striking embroideries with crazy themes like circus and astrology. The character of her clothes was boldness and chic. She created humorous trompe-l'oel sweater, leg of mutton sleeve, tweed evening suit, shocking pink, peculiar accessories such as hats and buttons. She collaborated with many artists like Dali, Cocteau and Berard, and drew on all the latest artistic trends into the fashion arena from Cubism and African Art to Surrealism. Her Surrelist dress provided a play of illusions and affected today;s avant-grade style.

• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.19-30
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• 2002

This is the research of Abject Art which was originated aesthetically in Abjection Theory of Julia Kristeva, a french psycho-analyst who argued liberational discussions about feminine identity against patricentric ideology which had fastened existing beautiful and elegant oedipal-feminine image and femininity as the secondary sex or the other's sex. and which became known by the planning display at whitney Museum of American in 1993. In Julia Kristeva's Abjection Theory which was written in her book(Power of Horror : An Assay on Abjection, 1992), she named pre-oedipal stage in which there is no sexual difference and has the same significance to both sexes instead of the oedipal stage which is becoming male-supreme reality as the semiotic and reinterpreted that an infant disregards feminine body--mother's body (Julia Kristeva, named it as Chora) as the love and the pain which carries her baby in herself and creates the baby which belonged to herself--which belongs to the semiotic to enter the symbolic smoothly. So the Abjection art is partly consist of some works which express the concertion of the boundary rebated with infant Identity which is not yet the other perfectly nor the subject perfectly, and of some works called Excretory Arts which express the excretion and vomiting which is the original experience of the abject. I expect that this research can be the chance of breaking from the fastened identity which was granted on female and feminine costume in this masculine-view centric society and creating the new position of costume and dress in the field of art by analyzing the costumes especially among these works.

• 혜화의학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.43-55
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• 2011

This study is to identify culturally the psychological effect of men and women's make-up, to examine men and women's tendency toward make-up and to figure out relationships between their psychological properies and its functions in modern society for the psychological analysis of Inspection(望診). This study has verified that makeup has a positive effect on their interpersonal relationships, psychological reation and self-confidence as well as it meets their fundamental aesthetic needs. The makeup of the psychological action on men and women is different as eroticism, feminism and etc. The social and cultural backgrounds of make-up are the needs of a variety of fashion, trend of public opinion, a cultural difference and etc. And further studies about psychological reason why they wear makeup need to be made. Makeup has an effect on their looks and it has a psychological effect of being able to decorate and move their mind. Finally, it is anticipated that the study for psychological approach to makeup could contribute on the study for positive makeup treatment and basic foundation of Inspection(望診) and physiognomy(觀相) in Oriental medicine.

• 복식
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.103-115
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is understanding modern woman's various aesthetic values and aesthetic sense through observing expression aspects of gender images in the 1990s military fashion and analyzing their aesthetic characteristics and formative factors. Gender images in military fashion have expressed the masculine image of authoritative image and offensive image and offensive image, and the feminine image of conservative image and ostentatious image, sensual image. The authoritative image showed authority and dignity of military uniform by using the classic military uniform's image. This spoke for desire of women to rise their position. Heroism and androcentrism affected as its formation factor. The offensive image destroyed original dignified image of military uniform by that resistance to authoritative image and existing gender identity appeared as way-out form and deconstructive expression. Anti-establishment spirit, resistance to gender identity, and deconstructionism affected as its formation factor. The conservative image expressed military fashion only with slim and soft silhouette, curved line, color, and simple details by magnifying feminity. Fallen man's authority affected as its formation factor. The ostentatious image expressed military fashion with magnifying accessories such as gold button and belt by women who wanted to display ostentatiously their social position and charm. The aspiration for class of elite affected as its formation factor. The sensual image intended to show erotic voluptuous beauty of woman's body by indirect and direct body exposure. Narcissism, desire to show, and sexual amusement affected as its formation factor.