• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.568-577
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• 2003

The purpose of this paper is to examine the geomorphic processes of beach and sanddune development in the Chungcheong-Namdo Province. The sands consist mainly of quartz and feldspar with lesser amounts of mica and other heavy minerals. With the exception of those from the granite, the sands have a very fine texture. Another characteristic of the sand grains is low degrees of roundness and grading indicating that source areas for the material were in the vicinity of the accumulating field. Over the years, the beaches have receded as a response to the decreasing amount of depositional materials. The driving force for the formation and transformation of coastal dunes in the study area is dominant winds from the center of the Siberian High. To some extent, the erosion of coastal dunes has been a global phenomenon. The degradation process occurred most actively when spring tides attacked beaches, berms, and foredunes. The relief and shape of present-day coastal dunes is determined initially by the Pleistocene strata underneath. From the fact that the strata contained traces of frozen structure, it can be inferred that sediment once experienced the process of soil formation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.228-237
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• 2015

Field observations were conducted to collect hydrodynamic and morphological data, which are needed to account for mechanisms of bathymetry changes caused by physical forcings, in Haeundae beach. In order to quantitatively describe characteristics of wave transformations and current patterns in space in winter and summer, in-situ sensors for measuring waves and current profiles were installed at three locations in the cross-shore direction and also three locations in the along-shore direction. As for the results of wave measurements, waves with main direction from the east dominate in winter while waves are incident from the S and the ESE in summer. Analysis of current data reveals that currents over the study domain are considerably influenced by a pattern of tidal motions, thereby, mainly oscillating in the direction of tidal currents, i.e., east-west directions, in both winter and summer. Currents tend to be influenced by local bathymetry in the shallow water region, with the direction changed along the depth contours and the magnitude reduced as they approach the shoreline. The results analysed from the hydrodynamic data through this study can be further combined with the morphological and bathymetry data, leading to the quantification of seasonal sediment transport rates and sand budget changes.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.333-342
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• 2017

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.164-172
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• 2023

The grain size distribution of sand provides crucial information for understanding coastal erosion and sediment deposition. The commonly used sieve analysis for grain size distribution analysis has limitations such as time-consuming processes and the inability to obtain information about individual particle shapes and colors. In this study, we propose a grain size distribution analysis method using smartphone digital images, which is simpler and more efficient than the sieve analysis method. During the image analysis process, we effectively detect particles from relatively low-resolution smartphone digital images by extracting particle boundaries through image gradient calculation. Using samples collected from four beaches in Gyeongsangbuk-do, we compare and validate the proposed boundary extraction image analysis method with the analysis method that does not extract boundaries, against sieve analysis results. The proposed method shows an average error rate of 8.21% at D₅₀, exhibiting a 65% lower error compared to the method without boundary extraction. Therefore, grain size distribution analysis using smartphone digital images is convenient, efficient, and demonstrated accuracy comparable to sieve analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Association of Geographic Information Studies
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.95-105
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• 2020

In order to promote efficient coastal management, it is important to continuously monitor the characteristics of the terrain, which are changed by various factors. In this study, time series UAV images were taken of Gyeokpo beach. And the standard deviation of ±11cm(X), ±10cm(Y), and ±15cm(Z) was obtained as a result of comparing with the VRS measurement performance for UAV position accuracy evaluation. Therefore, it was confirmed that the tolerance of the digital map work rule was satisfied. In addition, as a result of monitoring the erosion and sedimentation changes using the DSM(digital surface model) constructed through UAV images, an average of 0.01 m deposition occurred between June 2018 and December 2018, and in December 2018 and June 2019. It was analyzed that 0.03m of erosion occurred. Therefore, 0.02m of erosion occurred between June 2018 and June 2019. From the topographical change analysis results, the area of erosion and sediment height was analyzed, and the area of erosion and sedimentation was widely distributed in the ±0.5m section. If we continuously monitor the topographical changes in the coastal regions by using the 3D terrain modeling results using the time series UAV images presented in this study, we can support the coastal management tasks such as supplement or dredging of sand.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.305-311
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• 2020

Rising sea levels along the coast from global warming causes the increase of wave energy along the coast. This rise in sea levels results in relatively deep water levels, which would incur the loss of sand that had not occurred in the past from erosion in coastal areas. Generally, it has been challenging to protect against coastal erosion, and the slope, cross-sectional shape, and materials are selected for the site conditions depending on the change in external forces. However, the application of counter measures based on insufficient understanding of the phenomenon is causing various damage, indicating the need for technological development and converging technologies to improve credibility. In this study, we developed eco-friendly permeable biopolymer concrete blocks to control the coastal erosion by using the Bio-Coast, an effective porous structure that mitigates the destructive erosion caused by the rising sea levels. The hexagonal design of Bio-Coast was derived from the honeycomb, columnar joints, and clover, which are durable and stable structures in nature, and the design was changed to apply bumps on the Bio-Coast filling in the form of a clover to reduce wave overtopping and run-up. Applying the field condition of beaches on the east coast of Korea, the block weight and size were decided and the prototype blocks were manufactured and are ready for field placement. In particular, it is intended to protect coastal areas from destructive erosion by natural and artificial external forces, and to extend the design to river,s lakes, and natural walking trails, to improve the efficiency of quality control and process control through the use of blocks.

• Geophysics and Geophysical Exploration
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.349-356
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• 2010

Analysis of high-resolution seismic profiles acquired from the southeastern continental shelf of Korea reveals that the late Quaternary transgressive deposits consist of six seismic units created in response to sea-level rise. These units with different seismic facies and geometry can be grouped into two distinct depositional wedges (paralic and marine) bounded by a ravinement surface. The paralic component underlying the ravinement surface consists of the sediment preserved from shoreface erosion and contains incised-channel fill, ancient beach-shoreface deposit and estuarine deposit. The top of paralic unit is truncated by a ravinement surface and overlain by marine component. The marine component consists of the sediment produced through shoreface erosion during landward transgression and contains mid-shelf sand sheet, mid-shelf sand ridge and inner shelf sand sheet. Such transgressive stratigraphic architecture of six sedimentary units is controlled by a function of lateral changes in the balance among rates of relative sea-level rise, sediment input and marine processes at any given time.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.290-317
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• 2013

The objectives of this study are to investigate the natural heritage and scientific value of various geosites on Udo Island, and to evaluate the sites as natural monuments and as world natural heritage properties. Udo Island includes a variety of geoheritage sites. Various land forms formed during the formation of the Someori Oreum formed by phreatomagmatic eruptions. The essential elements for the formation of Udo Island are the tuff cone, overflowing lava and overlying redeposited tuff sediments. Various coastal land forms are also present. About 6,000 years B.C., when sea-level rose close to its present level due to deglaciation since the Last Glacial Maximum, carbonate sediments have been formed and deposited in shallow marine environment surrounding Udo Island. In particular, the very shallow broad shelf between Udo Island and Jeju Island, less than 20 m in water depth, has provided perfect conditions for the formation of rhodoids. Significant amounts of rhodoids are now forming in this area. Occasional transport of these rhodoids by typhoons has produced unique beach deposits which are entirely composed of rhodoids. Additional features are the Hagosudong Beach with its white carbonate sands, the Geommeole Beach with its black tuffaceous sands and Tolkani Beach with its basalt cobbles and boulders. Near Hagosudong Beach, wind-blown sands in the past produced carbonate sand dunes. On the northern part of the island, special carbonate sediments are present, due to their formation by composite processes such as beach-forming process and transportation by typhoons. The development of several sea caves is another feature of Udo Island, formed by waves and typhoon erosion within tuffaceous sedimentary rocks. In particular, one sea cave found at a depth of 10 m is very special because it indicates past sea-level fluctuations. Shell mounds in Udo Island may well represent the mixed heritage feature on this island. The most valuable geoheritage sites investigated around Udo Isalnd are rhodoid depostis on beaches and in shallow seas, and Someori Oreum composed of volcanoclastic deposits and basalt lava. Beach and shallow marine sediments, composed only of rhodoids, appear to be very rare in the world. Also, the natural heritage value of the Someori Oreum is outstanding, together with other phreatomagmatic tuff cones such as Suwolbong, Songaksan and Yongmeori. Consequently, the rhodoid deposits and the Someori Oreum are worth being nominated for UNESCO World Natural Heritage status. The designation of Someori Oreum as a Natural Monument should be a prerequisite for this procedure.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.117-126
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• 1999

Hampyong Bay is a semienclosed and macrotidal bay which opens to the eastern Yellow Sea through a narrow inlet in the southwestern coast of Korea. In order to understand the tidal-flat sedimentation in the semienclosed setting, morphology, sediments, accumulation rate and sea cliff erosion were investigated in the tidal flat of Hampyong Bay. The tidal flat of Hampyong Bay lacks intertidal drainage systems, and generally shows the concave-upward profile whose relief is designated by marked morphological features such as high-tide beaches, intertidal sand shoals and tidal creeks. Surfacial sediments of the tidal flat mainly consist of mud, sandy mud, gravelly mud, gravelly sand and muddy gravel, thus showing the textural characteristics of multimodal grain-size distribution, poorly sorting and positive skewness. The sediments generally coarsen landward due to the increase in coarse fraction content. Sedimentary structures are deeply bioturbated, but parallel lamination and lenticular bedding are locally found in the mudflat near mean low water line. Annual accumulation rates across the tidal flat (along Line SM) average -5.2 cm/yr with a range of -45.8~+4.2 cm/yr, indicating that the tidal flat is erosional. In general, erosion rates of upper and lower tidal flat are higher than those of middle tidal flat. Seasonally, the erosion rates are much higher during spring and winter when dominant wind direction corresponds to the long axis of Hampyong Bay. Sea cliffs are eroded at a rate of 1.4 m/yr. The biggest sea cliff erosion generally occurs 1~2 months later after tidal flats were extensively eroded. Such erosions of tidal Oats and sea cliffs in the semienclosed bay setting are interpreted to be due to wind waves coupled with local sea-level rise.