• Title/Summary/Keyword: Saekdong

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Study on the Development of Modern Fashion Design Using Joseon Hwapo (Flower Cloth) Patterns (조선 화포(花布) 문양을 활용한 현대 패션디자인 개발 연구)

  • Ohata, Emii;Suh, Seunghee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.26 no.1
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    • pp.68-91
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study is to create modern patterns based on considering the types and design elements of Joseon hwapo patterns containing Korean identity, and to develop costume designs by applying design elements of traditional Korean dress, Hanbok. These designs combine traditional costumes with modern sensibility using the attribute listing method, and present them using a 3D virtual clothing program. Through this, it is meaningful as it organizes data on Joseon hwapo patterns, which were rarely dealt with in the traditional Korean costume research, and it is also of research value as it is a work that utilizes Joseon hwapo patterns as a new source of fashion design development. As a research method, literature research was conducted based on the documents, 'Nabeshima-sarasa hidensho', 'Nabeshima-sarasa mihoncho', and 'Zoho kafu benran', which are related to Joseon hwapo remaining in Japan. Based on the literature research, research was performed by creating pattern design and costume design using the attribute listing method, and 3D virtual clothing. Traditional Korean costumes used in design development in this study were saekdong-jeogori, dolddi-jeogori, magoja, hongjangsam, durumagi, jungdan, gollyongpo, jeogui, breast band, mujigi-chima, chima, and baji. Further, accessories used in each costume, such as pyeseul, daedae, hapi, and jeonhaeng-utchima, and features of configurations, such as yongbo, chest ribbons, band hem, gusset, collar and dongjung, heorimalgi, neckline, and sapok line, were used for design development.

Hanbok school uniform design case analysis - Focused on the Hanbok Advancement Center's school uniform distribution project - (한복 교복의 디자인 사례 분석 - 한복진흥센터 한복 교복 보급사업을 중심으로 -)

  • Hana Lee;Yhe-Young Lee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.32 no.1
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    • pp.70-85
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    • 2024
  • This study aimed to examine the recent Hanbok school uniform design directions to contribute to the distribution of Hanbok school uniforms and the accumulation of Hanbok-inspired fashion design sources. We reviewed 16 academic papers published on Hanbok school uniform designs from 1998 to 2023 and summarized the design features proposed therein. We also analyzed 172 items of Hanbok school uniform designs developed under the Hanbok school uniform promotion project hosted by the Hanbok Advancement Center between 2019 and 2022. We found that the recent Hanbok school uniform design characteristics conformed to the design directions proposed in previous studies in terms of line, color, fabric, and textile pattern. Conforming design characteristics include the following. Overall, silhouettes were straight and moderately fitting to the body. Detailed straight and curved lines from Hanbok were applied. Designs showed traditional Hanbok colors, including white, black, and navy. Machine washable cotton and various blended fabrics were used. Modernized traditional patterns such as Saekdong, cloud, and Gwae were applied to textile designs. In contrast, some characteristics of recent designs deviated from the proposed design directions. Barrel silhouettes were found in casual styles of uniform items, including sweatshirts, hoodies, and jumpers. A wider range of materials, including fleece, quilted fabric, brocade, and Jinju silk, were used. Uniforms had looser silhouettes and were made with modern washable materials to meet students' preference for casual uniforms.

A Scientific Analysis of Gold Threads Used in Donggungbi-Wonsam(Ceremonial Robe Worn by a Crown Princess, National Folklore Cultural Heritage No.48) (동궁비 원삼에 사용된 금사의 과학적 분석)

  • Lee, Jang-Jon;An, Boyeon;Han, Kiok;Lee, Ryangmi;Yoo, Ji Hyun;Yu, Ji A
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.37 no.5
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    • pp.525-535
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    • 2021
  • This study identified material properties through scientific analysis on Jikgeumdan(satin with gold threads) from Donggungbi-Wonsam and the gold threads used in the embroidery. The Donggungbi-Wonsam's base of gold threads were estimated to have used mulberry fiber's Korean paper(Hanji) because non-wood-based fibers were observed. The X-ray spectrometer showed that the Tongsuseulan of Donggungbi-Wonsam was a flat gold thread of pure gold and Jikgeumdan of flat silver thread of its Saekdong and Hansam. High sulfur levels were detected in the flat silver thread, which appeared to have formed silver sulfide by either manufacturing process using sulfur or conservation environment. he dragon insignia's embroidery is also described as two types twisted gold threads; pure gold and alloying-gold and silver. while dragon insignia's border line is decorated with a twisted gold thread of pure gold. In particular, it was investigated that adhesives such as an animal glue, a protein-based compound by gas chromatography mass spectrometry. Additionally, XRF and Raman spectroscopy analysis on the mixture substances between the metal surface and the base paper of gold threads identified talc and quartz in the gold threads and Seokganju(hematite) in the flat silver threads.

Measurement and Comparison of Emotions Felt by Each Type of Hanbok (한복 유형별로 느껴지는 감성의 측정과 비교)

  • Eun-Jung Park;Sang-Hoon Jeong;Jong-Hwan Seo
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.25 no.4
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    • pp.33-44
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    • 2022
  • Rental services have recently come to be provided in which people can experience traditional Korean culture in the form of Hanok villages, allowing everyone can easily rent and wear hanbok, a traditional Korean garment, regardless of gender and age. Users of hanbok rental services share photos of themselves wearing hanbok on social media, contributing to the increasing popularity of hanbok experiences. However, the trend of wearing hanbok has no become established in people's daily lives, apart from the specific places that offer hanbok experiences. To promote hanbok as everyday clothes, hanbok design should be developed to provide wearers with both convenience and emotional satisfaction. Using 28 emotion words that express consumers' emotions toward hanbok that were extracted from previous studies, this study measured consumers' emotions toward different types of hanbok with on a seven-point Likert scale. Emotion words and categories that obtained scores of five points or above, signifying a rating of "felt fairly" or higher in relation to specific hanbok types were extracted. This study also examined differences in the average scores for emotional categories according to hanbok types and gender. The results indicated that only average scores for the "favorable feeling" category showed a significant difference between men and women. Finally, differences in the average scores for emotional categories were examined by classifying hanbok types: traditional (e.g., baenaet-jeogori, saekdong-jeogori, traditional hanbok for adults, and traditional wedding clothes) and modern (e.g., daily hanbok for children, for women, and for men). The results indicated significant differences between traditional and modern hanbok in six emotional categories (i.e., the cheerful, esthetic, harmonious, fresh, favorable, and stable feeling). This study derived analytic results for terms related to emotions that hanbok wearers feel according to types of hanbok. The findings can be used by hanbok retailers and rental services to provide consumers with greater emotional satisfaction.

An Essay on the Change of Jinju Sword Dance after being designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Asset (<진주검무> 중요무형문화재 지정 이후의 변화에 관한 소고)

  • Lee, Jong Sook
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.49 no.1
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    • pp.4-21
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate changes of Jinju Sword Dance, characteristics of the changes, and the current condition of its preservation and succession after the designation as the important intangible cultural property no. 12 in January 16th, 1967. In other words, this study understands the situation which has established the present state of after changes over generations. As of now. the year of 2015, the 3 generation holders have been approved since 1967. In 1967, 8 members of $1^{st}$ generation holders were selected from gisaengs of Gwonbeon. However, the succession training was incomplete due to conflicts among the holders, the deaths of some holders, and economic activities of the individuals. As the need of a pivot for succession training and activities was rising, Seong, Gye-Ok was additionally approved as the $2^{nd}$ generation holder on June $21^{st}$, 1978. Seong, Gye-Ok who had never been a gisaeng had dramatically changed with a lot of new attempts. After the death of Seong, Gye-Ok in 2009, Kim, Tae-Yeon and Yu, Yeong-Hee were approved as the $3^{rd}$ generation holders in February, 2010. Based on the resources including the "Cultural Research Reports of Important Intangible Cultural Properties" in 1966 and videos up to 2014, the changes of the dance and surroundings are as follow. 1. The formation of musical accompaniment has been changed during the 3 generations. In the video of the $1^{st}$ generation(in 1970), the performance lasted about 15 minutes, whereas the performance lasted 25 minutes in the video of the $2^{nd}$ generation. Yumbuldoduri rhythm was considered as Ginyumbul(Sangryeongsan) and played more slowly. The original dance requiring only 15 rhythms was extended to 39 rhythms to provide longer performance time. In the $3^{rd}$ generation, the dance recovered 15 rhythms using the term Ginyumbul. The facts that Yumbul was played for 3 minutes in the $1^{st}$ generation but for 5 minutes in the 3rd generation shows that there was tendency pursuing the slowness from the $2^{nd}$ generation. 2. For the composition of the Dance, the performance included additional 20 rhythms of Ginyumbul and Ah(亞)-shaped formation from the $2^{nd}$ generation. From the $3^{rd}$ generation, the performance excluded the formation which had no traditional base. For the movement of the Dance, the bridge poses of Ggakjittegi and Bangsukdoli have been visibly inflexible. Also, the extention of time value in 1 beat led the Dance less vibrant. 3. At the designation as an important intangible cultural property (in 1967), the swords with rotatable necks were used, whereas the dancers had been using the swords with non-rotatable necks since late 1970s when the $2^{nd}$ generation holder began to used them. The swords in the "Research Reports" (in 1966) was pointy and semilunar, whereas the straight swords are being used currently. The use of the straight swords can be confirmed from the videos after 1970. 4. There is no change in wearing Jeonlib, Jeonbok, and Hansam, whereas the arrangement of Saekdong of Hansam was different from the arrangement shown in the "Research Reports". Also, dancers were considered to begin wearing the navy skirts when the swords with non-rotatable necks began to be used. Those results showed that has been actively changed for 50 years after the designation. The $2^{nd}$ generation holder, Seong, Gye-Ok, was the pivot of the changes. However, , which was already designated as an important intangible cultural property, is considered to be only a victim of the change experiment from the project to restore Gyobang culture in Jinju, and it is a priority to conduct studies with historical legitimacy. First of all, the slowing beat should be emphasized as the main fact to reduce both the liveliness and dynamic beauty of the Dance.