• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 1995

the necessity of development of the Nearshore zone greatly emphasis in recent years. In the wave deformation model, we can get the wave height and wave direction using the hyperbolic mild slope equation considered the reflection wave. Radiation Stress the driving force of flow was calculated by the Watanabe and Maruyama who proposed on the partial standing wave. In the surf zone, applying the Izumiya and Horikawa's turbulent model considered the bottom friction and energy dissipation, we compared and examined with the Numerical model and Hydraulic test result of Watanabe and Maruyama. This model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach agreed well with the Numerical results. This model is expected so helpful to solve the prediction of the wave deformation problems in the development of the Nearshore zone in the future.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.661-669
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• 2000

The accurate prediction of wave-induced currents is indispensible to analyze the beach deformation due to the sediment transport or dispersion in the surf zone, which often gives rises to serious environmental problems in the coastal region. Although many numerical models have been suggested up to now, it is not easy to properly simulate wave-induced currents, in particular, over a complex topography. In order to solve these problems, we have to understand the mechanism of wave transformation and wave-induced currents, to compare results numerical models with those of field measurements, and to find the validity and the applicability of them. And, also the validity of the model has been confirmed by the field investigation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.357-368
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• 1993

With the assumption of the diffusion dominated flow, a numerical model has been developed for undertow and turbulence structure under the breaking wave by using the $textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ turbulence model. Undertow is a strong mean current which moves seqwards below the level of wave trough in the surf zone. The turbulence, generated by wave breaking in the roller, spreads and dissipates downwards. The governing equations are composed of the equation of motion with the period-averaged shear stress due to waves; $textsc{k}$- and $\varepsilon$-equations with the turbulence energy Production due to wave breaking. They are discretised by the three-level fully implicit scheme, which can be solved by using Thomas algorithm. The model gives good agreements with measurements except for the station that is closest to the breaking point.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.267-277
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• 2014

The conventional performance-based design method for the solid-wall caisson breakwater has been extended and applied to the perforated-wall caisson. The mathematical model to calculate the sliding distance of a perforated-wall caisson is verified against hydraulic experimental data. The developed performance-based design method is then compared with the conventional deterministic method in different water depths. Both the expected sliding distance and the exceedance percentage of total sliding distance during the structure lifetime decrease with decreasing water depth outside the surf zone, but they increase with decreasing water depth inside the surf zone. The performance-based design method is either more economical or less economical than the deterministic method depending on which design criterion is used. If the criterion for the ultimate limit state is used, the former method is less economical than the latter outside the surf zone, whereas the two methods are equally economical inside the surf zone. However, if the breakwater is designed to satisfy the criterion for the repairable limit state, the former method is more economical than the latter in all water depths.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.91-107
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• 1995

In this paper, previously proposed mechanisms of generation and maintenance of rip currents are grouped into three broad categories; (1) prismatic topography models, (2) non-prismatic topography models and (3) structural controls by natural and/or constructed features, such as headlands, piers. groins, jetties. etc. The prismatic models can explain the occurrence of a rip current on a planar beach, while non-prismatic model needs undulatory topography inside the surf zone to generate and maintain a rip current. Yet more detailed and thorough studies need to be conducted to include all relevant variables and to clarify the mechanism(s) governing rip current. Next a simple model is presented to predict mean longshore currents behind a longshore bar (or submerged breakwaters) by considering mass transport over the bar and the bar morphology. This hydrodynamic model could be extended to include the sedimentary feedback mechanism.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.57-69
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• 1995

The development of a finite difference model for cross-shore sediment transport prediction in the surf tone due to the storm surge event is presented in this paper. Using the inhomogeneous diffusion equation with moving boundaries. the present numerical model is found to be robust and efficient and does not possess a number of restrictions imposed in Kriebel and Dean's(1985) numerical model. Our numerical model is validated through comparison with the analytical solution. the data of a large-scale experiment and the field data of Hurricane Eloise. The Present model if able to predict the averaged volumetric erosion rate of a beach due to the time-varying real storm surge hydrographs and satisfies the conservation of sediment between eroded volume in the onshore region and deposited volume in the offshore region. In addition. the present model is able to reasonably predict the recession of a beach with wide berm and dune. and can describe the change of a breaking point by the offshore deposition. From the sensitivity analysis or the present numerical model with various input parameters, it is concluded that the present numerical model is able to analyze the beach change in a reliable manner including the effects of different sizes of sediments.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.355-365
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• 1994

An analytical model of return flow is presented outside the surf zone. The governing equation is derived from the Navier-Stokes equation and the continuity. Each term of the governing equation is evaluated by the ordering analysis. Then the infinitesimal terms, i.e. the turbulent normal stress, the squared vertical velocity of water particle and the streaming velocity, are neglected. The driving forces of return flow are calculated using the linear wave theory for the shallow water approximation. Especially, the space derivative of local wave heights is described considering a shoaling coefficient. The vertical distribution of eddy viscosity is discussed to the customary types which are the constant, the linear function and the exponential function. Each coefficient of the eddy viscosities which sensitively affect the precision of solutions is uniquely decided from the additional boundary condition which the velocity becomes zero at the wave trough level. Also the boundary conditions at the bottom and the continuity relation are used in the integration of the governing equation. The theoretical solutions of present model are compared with the various experimental results. The solutions show a good agreement with the experimental results in the case of constant or exponential function type eddy viscosity.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.363-368
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• 2017

The tsunami flood the coastal cities and damage the land structures. The study on wave pressure and force on land structures is one of the important factors in designing the stability of inland structures. In this study, two - dimensional wave flume tests on the horizontal wave force and pressure of tsunamis on a simplified box-type structure was conducted. Vertical distribution and wave power of horizontal wave pressure over time were measured by pressure sensors and force transducer. Also, those were measured from the different wave breaking types. The vertical distribution of horizontal wave pressure was uniform at the moment when the horizontal wave force to the structure was maximum under the breaking wave condition. A surf similarity parameter was employed in order to figure out the relationship between the maximum horizontal wave force on the structure as a function of various incident wave conditions. As a result, the non - dimensionalized horizontal wave force tends to decrease exponentially as the surf similarity parameter increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.106-121
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• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.296-308
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• 2001

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.