• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.128-149
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• 2011

This study dealing with the Italian futurist and Russian constructivist costume designs which aimed for new fashion design freed from the conventional meanings of fashion and explore the artistic purpose reflected within the designs expressed differently according to cultural and regional differences in order examine the early 20th century Avant-grade costume designs. The scope of this study is limited to the 1910s to the 1930s when the Italian futurism and the Russian constructivism were originated and were most active. This monograph focused on the works of the Italian futurists, Giacomo Balla who declared the 'Manifesto delle moda minile futurista', Fortunato Depero, and Thayaht who suggested a new direction for the futurist, and on the works of the Russian constructivists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Liubov Popova. As an one method of investigated, this paper is used materials of various sources to examine their features. Futurists costume designs expressed a radical conception of progress and their source of aesthetics was dynamism. The concept of 'power' which was the basis of the futurists was incorporated in the costumes while non-symmetrical cut-outs and bright and vivid colors completed the futurist costume designs. Moreover the Russian constructivists brought advances in the field of fabric and textile designs. What was particularly interesting about the Russian constructivist costumes was that the artists worked at the textile mills themselves, directly involved in the designs and manufacturing of fabric, developing an advancement in textile and a new understanding of costume. Furthermore, many Russian artists settled in Paris, actively participating in the fashion industry, and therefore, they have greatly contributed to the development of the early 20th century Avant-garde costume designs.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제44권
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• pp.239-281
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• 2016

이 글은 20세기 초 러시아와 21세기 초 한국에 미래파가 존재했다는 사실에 주목하여 두 미래파의 탄생과 소멸 과정 전체를 조망하고 각국의 미래파 현상에 내재한 특수성을 일별함으로써 미래파의 운명에 대해 숙고하는 것을 목표로 한다. 본론의 1장에서는 20세기 혁명 이전의 유토피아즘 시대에 등장한 러시아 미래파의 여러 그룹, 즉 '자아미래파(эго-футуризм)', '입체미래파(кубо-футуризм)', '원심분리기(Центрифуга)', '시의 다락방(Мезонин поэзии)' 등의 탄생과 소멸 과정을 살펴본다. 또한 러시아 미래파를 대표하는 '입체미래파'가 오페라 "태양에 대한 승리"(1913)를 통해 어떻게 자신들의 '자움' 기획을 정점으로 끌어올렸으며 동시에 그 지점에서 어떻게 태생적 한계점을 노출할 수밖에 없었는지를 언어(크루쵸니흐), 음악(마츄신), 무대 장치 및 의상(말레비치) 차원에서 추적해본다. 본론 2장에서는 21세기 탈유토피아즘 시대의 한국에서 어떻게 '미래파'가 국문학사에 기록될 수 있었는지를 통시적으로 살펴본다. 한국 내 '미래파'는 '미래파'로 평가받는 황병승 등 실험주의 경향의 시인들에 의해 자발적으로 탄생한 것이 아니라 비평가 권혁웅에 의한 명명화 및 유형화 작업의 소산이라는 특수성을 지니게 된다. 그리고 이러한 특수성으로 인해 빚어진 소위 '미래파'를 둘러싼 격렬한 찬반 비평 논쟁에 비추어 시와 비평의 올바른 관계에 대해 논의한다.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제37권
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• pp.109-130
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• 2014

In 1920s, Russian society was unstable and tremendous. After the 1917 Revolution, Russian government had initiated "New Economic Policy" embedded in a partial market system in these times. Also, Russian culture had been exposed to a new trend of culture, for instance, Russian Modernism. In the field of Russian literature, satirical comedy became very popular. One of famous satirical comedy writers was V. Mayakovsky who was trying to express his ideal society which consisted of both tensions and harmonies between the old and the new periods. In this context, V. Mayakovsky was recognized as a poet with futurism who loved to write a comedy expressing social suburbanity and governmental bureaucracy. His two comedies, "Bug" and "Bath" were his famous comedies, dealing with Russian modernistic historics and theatricality in 1920s. In this article, authors try to look into their artistic characteristics of 1920s Russian literature involving a new trend of social change, for instance, Grotesque and Tragicomic features. In the same context, this article focused on its inner dilemma of satirical comedy which had been existed in 1920s Russian literature.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2000년도 International Costume Culture Conference
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• pp.46-48
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• 2000

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.550-558
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• 2010

Russian Constructivism, which took the lead in the Russian trend of art until the late 1920's, was influenced by European Cubism and Futurism. Breaking away from the previous realistic tendency, Russian Constructivism, to meet the ideology of the revolution, insisted the "Art into Street" and the "Art in Industry" with its abstract and geometric design. Russian Constructivism effected paintings of mid 1920's, as well as Industrial design and costume design. This operated remarkable changes in Russian form of costume and textile area. An unusual situation like revolution had provided the social justification to develop a new costume design not for the special class of people, but for the general public. In this atmosphere, the plan of clothing mass production began to progress. Although the Russian Constructivism costume of arts shows the similarity in the trend of fashion and the physical forms of those days, its fundamental idea in manufacturing costumes was 'to create costumes to be possible to mass-produce and to be wearable to anyone regardless of the social class'. Therefore, Constructivism costume of arts pursued dynamism and geometric form through non-objective design that has broken away from the handcrafted and traditional standards of the past. These distinct characteristics served as a momentum to seek costume design based on productivity and functionality.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1083-1098
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• 2009

The purpose of the study is to revaluate the new artistic values of Suprematism that immensely influenced the Russian culture in the beginning of the 20th century. Also through studying the relationship between people and costume within works of Malevich, who wanted to portray humanity through his art works, this study will research on how Suprematism not just stood as Russian Avant-garde art but significantly contributed to art and costume expression. The study methods are as follows. First, consider the formative background of Suprematism style of arts. Second, study of the development of Suprematism art through both Suprematism art and Non-objective art. Third, study how Suprematism style of arts is portrayed in art costume through works of Malevich. The results of the study are as follows. The Russian Suprematism art costume strictly originated from the Russian Suprematism style of arts. Suprematism simplified any reproductive element of fine art with a creative energy, which reflects the statement of Malevich that said, "The object does not exist, it only stands as a symbol." In other words, Suprematism abolished ordinary response to basic environment, and created a much more serious reality than the innate reality of the environment. When applied to art costume, such style sought after geometrical simplicity in shape and Neo-Premitivism trait in color. This trend is also expressed in 21st century fashion in new forms of Minimalism or Futurism. In this respect, Suprematism still holds an artistic value in a novel form even after a century since the beginning of 20th century when Malevich first presented Suprematism.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.212-222
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• 2000

This study intends to observe how the essential elements of art have changed Human's sense of beauty extending over the whole lives as well as fashion through the investigation of Light and Rays which have played a important role in giving birthe to the new trend of art within the upheaval age of various cultures. The peculiarities of which Futurism of Italy and Rayonism of Russia including Impressionism have a great role in giving birth to a new trend of art by means of the development of science technology are like these. Impressionists looked for the origin of the subtle harmony in nature within changes of sun-rays. The special feature of Impressionism paintings was to express the line of vision diversely according to changes of light rather than to focus on the line of vision with clear outlines. Henceforth, Neo-Impressionism which developed Impressionism more systematically leaded changes of Light and Rays more systematically and scientifically and maintained Divisionnisme techniques which extends to lead towards color and light through dividing and juxtaposing color. In the early 20th century Futurists tried to express dynamism through the interpenetration of light and revive color and light through the division techniques of color and persist an artificial light like eletricity rather than a natural light. Rayonism of Russia which was ifluenced from Impressionism and Futurism maintained intersection of reflecting rays which emerges from an object of things more deeply. This pursuit of light and rays also light and rays also appears as it is in modern fashion. First, it is the fashion which applied sun-rays persisted by Impressionists and expressed colors which show differently according to direction of light. Second, it is the fashion design which re-analyzed what Futurists expressed artificial light and rays. Third, it is the design which expressed Divisionnisme theory persisted by Impressionists and Futurists into fashion as it is and was made of being divided the form of glittering light into small dots. Fourth, it is the fashion design which applied Rayonists'work which applied intersection of reflected rays. Like this, it is aproved that the pursuit of light and rays expresses as it is in modern fashion of the 21st.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.217-228
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• 2001

This study* 1) historically considered the meaning of light which has frequently wed as the subject of artistic expression since Renaissance, in order to grasp an artistic atmosphere about light and rays before the allusion of Rayonism. non it inspected closely the course of changes of light as a result of historic circumstances and intended to understand how Rusian Rayonism of the 20th, which maintained these effects of light more rationally, had an influence on modern fashion. It was created by Mikhail Larionov and developed by his wife, N. Goncharova. The main special feature of Rayonism wag the crossing of reflected ras, emerging from various objects. Most of these things depended on line and color. Re purpose of Rayonism paintings was to create a new space from arising from which reflected rays from various selected objected crossed one another. Namely, artists maintained that they should give up various objects of visible world and express rays which were reflected objects and crossed in complex. Rayonists were affected by Cubism and Futurism and came to fake an interest in relations whose rays of parallel or convergent color made, also in expression of themes. Since that, Rayonsim affected Supermatisme and Constructivism. Re pursuit of light and rays from the 19th until the early 20th came to appear in fashion as well as in art as it was. As Rayonists created a new space from which reflected rays from selected objects crossed one another, they used line and color as the main techniques of expression. in this way the attempt which intended to express rays, using itself of the line and color, appeared as futile design of tots of designs like Donna Karan, Cianni Versace and Rococo Barocco and so on of Modem fashion. This was designed for essential elements of pure art to express the new aestheic consciousness through fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.839-853
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• 2016

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance "Victory Over the Sun" was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. "Victory Over the Sun" did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in "Victory Over the Sun", and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on "Victory Over the Sun" from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on "Victory Over the Sun". and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제3호
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• pp.173-192
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• 2005

Yoo Youngkuk started his career as an artist when he entered Bunkagakuin of Tokyo in 1935 he actively participated in the Japanese art scene as a young Korean artist until 1943. In his earliest works, Rhapsody and Work B, Surrealist and abstract influences are manifested as these were prevalent in Japan at the time. With the exception of Rhapsody and Work B, all works available that were executed between 1937 and 1940 are abstract, which points to the fact that Yoo intended abstraction from the beginning. Surviving works in relief suggest his early style was founded on the abstractions similar to Russian Avant-Garde, Neo-plasticism and Bauhaus simplicity. His early abstractions were not the ideational images derived in the process of the abstraction of the representational image, but they arose from the constructive attitude in composing the already stylized non-representational geometries. It is worth noting that his early emphasis was on the pure and absolute geometric abstraction, rather than the images motivated from the figurative representation. Yoo differentiates himself from Kim Whan Ki in the following aspects: one, he eliminated the subject matter i.e. human figures and the nature; two, he maintained the constructivist attitude in creating a strict and absolute abstraction; three, he experimented with different styles without combining them. He manifests direct influences from the prevalent Western art influences, such as Futurism and Russian Avant-Garde, unlike Kim who vaguely references. In both paintings and reliefs, Yoo's attempt in the realization of the pictorial depth and space seems cerebral and conceptualized compared with the other artists of the time who resolved abstraction via the constructive dimension. Uemura, a contemporary critic to the geometric abstractions in Japan, disapproves the stylistic bent in the adaptation of the abstract painting without the comprehension of its spiritual movement. As witnessed in other criticisms as well, contemporary Japanese critics' interest lie mainly in the superficial observation such as the presence of representational elements, composition and use of color. Such formal and superficial understanding of the geometric abstraction resulted in