• 제목/요약/키워드: Royal women

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조선시대 상의원의 왕실복식 공급체계 연구 (A Study on the Sang-Uiwon to Make Royal Attire in Chosun Dynasty)

  • 김소현
    • 복식
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    • 제57권2호
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    • pp.11-28
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    • 2007
  • Sang-uiwon was the bureau of Royal attire in Chosun Dynasty. It had been established in King TAEJO, Chosun Dynasty. The 597 artisans, sorted by 68 types were assigned to Sang-uiwon. The ministry of Taxation[Hojo] and Tribute bureau[Seonhvecheong] had charged of finances of Sang-uiwon. According to the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon, there were five types for finances. The principal income tax[Won Gong] was the assignments of national finance to Sang-uiwon. The materials for the Royal informal dress were offered by usual tributes. The kinds of usual tributes were the tribute for the Royal families' birthday, holidays such as New Year's Day, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the harvest festival[Chuseok], and the winter solstice, the tributes for spring and fall, every first day and fifteenth day of the month, an annual tribute, an annual present, and an annual laudatory goods which were the King's presents to His Majesty's lieges. With usual tributes from Sang-uiwon, the Royal informal dress was made by the dressmakers and embroiderers who were Court ladies. The Royal informal dress for the King and the Crown Prince was trousers[Ba JI], shirts[Sam A], jackets[Gua Du], men's gowns[Chul lick], and long vests[Due Grae]. The Royal informal dress for the Queen and the Crown Princess was loose drawers[Dan Ni Ui], long skirts[Chi Ma], shirts[Sam A] and jarkets[Go Ui]. When there were the king's proceeding outside the palace, royal parties, cases of tributes to Chinese, special tributes were offered according to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission. The tributes were also offered by a royal ordinance. According to the kinds of Royal event, the officers of Sang-uiwon procured the Royal costume which were conformed to the Royal etiquette.

사극에 반영된 청나라 강건성세(康乾盛世) 시기 황족 여성 복식 조형 특성에 관한 연구 -<견환전>(甄嬛传)을 중심으로- (Clothing Characteristics of Royal Women in Historical Dramas during the 'Kang-Qian' Heyday in 'Qing Dynasty' -Focus on -)

  • 이애진;최수아
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제41권3호
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    • pp.407-419
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    • 2017
  • Based on clothing prohibition modelling characteristics, this paper studies historical costumes through the traditional Chinese historical dramas of the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'; represents the research object as a representative Chinese historical drama. This paper systematically analyzed the utilization and reflection of royal women clothing prohibition. The results of the study are as follows. The royal women clothing prohibition of this drama shows three aspects of characteristics found in traditional Chinese costume modeling. First, some special colors that integrated ancient and modern styles were mainly used in this drama such as champagne color, wine color, and macaron color. Second, it mainly utilized the modelling of modern artificial pigments and floral patterns that are different from Chinese traditional female costumes of the 'Qing Dynasty'. Third, stage costumes for this drama are focused more on using a personality method to reflect the beauty of each actress by the application of individual elements. This study analyzed and studied the clothing prohibition of female costume from to show the traditional Chinese costume prohibition in a Chinese historical drama as well as reveal a few aspects of traditional female costume characteristics in the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'. This study examined traditional female costumes characteristics in modern historical dramas based on different figures and dynasties as well as discussed the factors at a deeper level and from varied aspects.

삼국사기의 복식연구 IV -색복의 부인 복색을 중심으로- (A Study on Women′s Costume Colors in the Sumptuary Laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa ki(三國史記))

  • 김진구
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제6권2호
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    • pp.36-44
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study was to identify and to classify the names of costume colors of women of Silla. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Until now scholars and researchers interpreted nine colors in Sam Guk Sa Ki as nine colors explained in the dictionaries. However, term, nine colors in the contexts did not refer to the literary meaning of nine colors such as blue, red, yellow, white, black, green, purple, pink, and navy blue as explained in the dictionaries. 'Nine colors' of Silla were women's costume colors which were specified in the royal edict in the texts. Thus, 'nine colors' of Silla had a specific meaning rather than literary meaning. 'Nine colors' of Silla women's costume were identified as red( ), yellow(黃), purple(紫), purplish pink(紫粉), gold powder(金屑), pink(紅), yellow powder(黃屑), dark pink(緋) and dark purple(滅紫). These 'nine colors' were actually prohibited colors in women's costume in the royal edict. Women from true bone, the highest class, were prohibited the use of tow colors of red and yellow out of nine colors. While women from four du pum and common class were forbidden the use of nine colors out of total of nine colors. Kinds and numbers of colors of costume were used as a means of differentiating the social class and rank of women in Silla. Also it was found that women of Silla favored red purple, pink tones and yellow color in their costume and these colors were fashionable colors among women of Silla. These fashionable costume colors of Silla women seems to be influenced by fashions of women of T'ang dynasty of China. Red, purple, pink, yellow and green were favorite colors of women of T'ang dynasty of China.

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『(인조장렬왕후)가례도감의궤』 노의(露衣) 일습(一襲) 고증 제작 (Historical Investigation and Reconstruction of Noeui (露衣) Set (一襲) of Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol)

  • 김남희;최연우
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제42권2호
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    • pp.360-378
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    • 2018
  • Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.

조선 궁궐, 동조(東朝)의 상징성과 $17{\sim}18$세기 대비전 조영에 관한 연구 (A Study on Symbolism of Dongjo in Royal Palaces of Choseon Dynasty and Its Way of Operation - Focusing on Donggwol in 17th-18th century -)

  • 조옥연
    • 건축역사연구
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    • 제16권6호
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    • pp.67-86
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    • 2007
  • Choseon Dynasty, from many aspects, saw the institutional establishment of its royal palaces in the 17th and 18th century, with 'donggwol (east palace)' as the most representative form in the era. In that period, palaces were managed in the best way that fits the royal etiquette and order to maintain the Confucian framework of the times. While the royal palace was the place for the king to conduct state affairs, it was also a compound for the royal family to lead a life in. Since the royal family was also based on the Confucian system, women in the royal palace seldom revealed their existence to outside world. Yet daebi,(a Queen Mother) who was often called 'dongjo,' enjoyed the highest level of honor not only as a member of the royal family but in the hierarchical order of the dynasty. As they often engaged themselves in political affairs, daebi raised their reputation through rites and rituals. So, in the 16th century, they largely used Changgyeong-gung palace in the eastern part of the royal compound since they sometimes had to go out of the royal residence. While it was called 'dongjo' because it was seated in the eastern part, it was also used as a word symbolizing daebi. And, therefore, it has become a general principle of royal palaces to build the palace for daebi in the eastern wing of the compound. However, the residence for daebi was not always built in the eastern part in the 17th and 18th century and, instead, edifices for daebi were sometimes erected in several points within the royal compound. Beside, daebi's residence in this period had additional spaces for ceremonies since they had a number of official events there. Construction of daebi's residences in this era was not confined to the symbolic institutions and they became the peculiar palaces with specific characteristics for official ceremonies of the queen mothers. Consequently, it could be said that the architectural style of dongjo, which was the place of the supreme female in the hierarchical order, stemmed from donggwol where daebi spent the longest time of the royal life.

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가례시 절차에 따르는 조선후기의 왕실여성 복식연구 (A Study of the Royal Lady's Dress in Late Joseon Dynasty According to the King's Wedding Process)

  • 김소현
    • 복식
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    • 제59권3호
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    • pp.96-108
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    • 2009
  • This study is made on the royal lady's dress In late Joseon dynasty according to the King Heon-jong and Lady Kyung-bin's Wedding Diary in the year of Jung-mi(1847) and summarised as follows: Girls' full dress was a set of a red skirt, a violet undo. jacket, and a light yellow jacket and a green Gyeon-ma-gi(a kind of top jacket) with he. hair Saeng-meo-ri hanging Do-tu-rak-daeng-gi(a kind of hair ribbon). At the big ceremony, girls wore a green Dang-ui instead of Gyeon-ma-gi. A girl picked up as a royal concubine wore a green Won-sam, which was decorated with gilt letters meaning longevity, patched emblems of gilt letter meaning longevity on the breast and on the back, belted with Bong-dae(a red sash with gilt phoenexes), like a princess's full dress. At the Kyung-bin's installation of Crown Princess and her first greeting ceremony with royal elders, she wore a green Won-sam as a formal dress, which had an embroidered emblem of phoenix, the belt with crystal ornaments, Pae-ok(佩玉), Kyu(圭) of blue jade, Shou(綬) with an phoenix. At a Dong-wrae-yun(drinking ceremony after bride and bridegroom's bowing to each other), she wore the embroidered red Jang-sam as a formal dress. Kyung-bin wore a purple Won-sam with Bong-dae as a full dress for a royal feast. According to the occasions, the same dress was differentiated with ornaments and rotors. Ji-keum-bal was an attire for ordinary ceremony. The attire was equipped with a woven gold green Dang-ui with an emblem of phoenix, a blue gilt underskirt and a red gilt overskirt. No-ui was worn as outdoor clothes. Jang-sam was worn by various classes, so it was differentiated with materials and names according to her class.

朝鮮時代의 胡袖 (A Study on the Name of Ho-su(好袖) of Chosun Period)

  • 김진구
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제7권3호
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    • pp.22-34
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study was to trace and identify the origin and the meanings of the word ho-su(胡袖) of Chosun dynasty period. Findings of this study can be summerized as follows : The original meaning of the word ho-su(胡袖) is a name of round sleeves. Later it was used as a name of a dress with round sleeves. The word ho-su as a name of a dress is an abbrecviated form of ho su so o za(好袖小 子) of a previous period. The word jyo go ri(赤古里) in historical documents is anothor name of so o za(小 子). Wearing the ho-su(胡袖) was restricted to royal family women. It was included in royal women\`s wedding garments as ordinary use. Colors of this dress was used as a means of differentiating the rank and position of the wearer.

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백제복식문화 연구 (제1보) (A Study on the Baekje Culture of Costume (Part I))

  • 채금석;고정민
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제33권9호
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    • pp.1347-1360
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    • 2009
  • Historical compliance with economics in a political interchange accepts the elements of multiculturalism to develop a new field in the research with China. New research seeks to point out the characteristics of the Baekje dress style in relation to studies on East Asian fashion that observe the role and place of Baekje apparel. This study reveals the formation background of Baekje dress culture. Examined are the cognitive world of Baekje dress culture. The study reveals the form of the three Baekje Kings and royal dress.

A Systematic Review of Cervical Cancer Incidence and Mortality in the Pacific Region

  • Obel, J.;Souares, Y.;Hoy, D.;Baravilala, W.;Garland, S.M.;Kjaer, S.K.;Roth, A.
    • Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
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    • 제15권21호
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    • pp.9433-9437
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    • 2014
  • This study provides the first systematic literature review of cervical cancer incidence and mortality as well as human papillomavirus (HPV) genotype prevalence among women with cervical cancer in the Pacific Island countries and territories. The cervical cancer burden in the Pacific Region is substantial, with age standardized incidence rates ranging from 8.2 to 50.7 and age standardized mortality rate from 2.7 to 23.9 per 100,000 women per year. The HPV genotype distribution suggests that 70-80% of these cancers could be preventable by the currently available bi- or quadrivalent HPV vaccines. There are only few comprehensive studies examining the epidemiology of cervical cancer in this region and no published data have hitherto described the current cervical cancer prevention initiatives in this region.