Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Historical Investigation and Reconstruction of Noeui (露衣) Set (一襲) of Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol

『(인조장렬왕후)가례도감의궤』 노의(露衣) 일습(一襲) 고증 제작

  • Kim, Nam Hee (Dept. of Korean Traditional Clothes, Dankook University) ;
  • Choi, Yeon Woo (Dept. of Korean Traditional Clothes, Dankook University)
  • Received : 2018.03.06
  • Accepted : 2018.04.10
  • Published : 2018.04.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.

Keywords

References

  1. Choi, K. S. (2013). A study on the form of Seok(舃) in the period of Joseon. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 63(2), 144-161. doi:10.7233/jksc.2013.63.2.144
  2. Ewha Womans University Museum. (Ed.). (1995). 服飾: 家政科 學大學 蒐集 服飾資料를 中心으로 (이화여자대학교박물관 特別展 圖錄) [Costume: Focused on costumes collecting by institute of family science (Special exibition catalogue of Ewha Womans University Museum)]. Seoul: Author.
  3. Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. (Ed.). (2008). Masterpieces from the excavated costumes of the Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. Yongin: Author.
  4. Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. (2011). SPECIAL EXHIBITION: The essential art of costume in Joseon Dynasty selection from the donated collection. Yongin: Author.
  5. Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. (Ed.). (2014). Special trip of Prince Seonseong and His mother of Joseon Royal Family. Seoul: Publishing Company Minsokwon.
  6. Kim, A. R. (2013). Materialization of a Chinyoung Procession illustration of Princess Bok-On's wedding based on historical dress research. Unpublished master's thesis, Dankook University, Yongin.
  7. Kim, G. Y. (2013). The wedding costume of princess in the Late Joseon Dynasty - Focusing on Garyedeungnok -. Unpublished master's thesis, Dankook University, Yongin.
  8. Kim, S. H. (2008). A study on the wearing occasions of the Royal Attire in Joseon Dynasty through the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 58(3), 149-162.
  9. Kim, S. H. (2010). A study of ritual costumes and hairstyles used in the coming-of-age ceremony for royal court ladies in the Late Joseon Dynasty. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 60(5), 51-70.
  10. Korea University Museum. (Ed.). (2003). 坡平尹氏 母子 미라 종합 연구 논문집 2 [A collection of learned papers about mother and child mummy from Papyeong Yun's tomb 2]. Seoul: Author.
  11. Kwon, H. (2009). A study on the history and the formative characteristics of 'Hwalot'. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Ewha Womans University, Seoul.
  12. Lee, S. H. (2003). A study about the No Eui in the late period of the Chosun Dynasty - With priority given to an unearthed article of a ruler of Chung Yun country -. Unpublished master's thesis, Dankook University, Yongin.
  13. Ministry of Korean Culture and Information. (Ed.). (1981). 朝鮮時代 宮中服飾 [Royal costume of Joseon dynasty]. Seoul: Author.
  14. National Institute of Korean History. (2005-2015). 朝鮮王朝實錄 [The annals of the Joseon dynasty]. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty. Retrieved from July 1 2005 to October 31, 2015, from http://sillok.history.go.kr/main/main.jsp
  15. National Institute of Korean History. (2009-2015). 高麗史 [The annals of the Goryo dynasty]. 한국사데이터베이스 [Korea History Database]. Retrieved from July 1 2009 to December 31, 2015, from http://db.history.go.kr/KOREA/item/level.do?itemId=kr&types=r#detail/kr_085r_0010_0010_0020_0590
  16. National Museum of Korea. (Ed.) (2010). JOSEON: The land of scholar, farmer, craftsman and merchant. Seoul: Author.
  17. National Palace Museum of Korea. (Ed.). (2010). The costume of imperial prince Yeong family. Seoul: Author.
  18. Park, S. S. (1992). Study on exhumed clothing of the early Chosun Dynasty-Based on the period before the Imjin Japanese invation-. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Sejong University, Seoul.
  19. Seokjuseon Memorial Museum of Dankook University. (Ed.). (2009). The excavated costume from the tombs of Yun family originated in Haenam, Gyuljeonggong branch, in Gwangju. Yongin: Dankook University Press.
  20. Seokjuseon Memorial Museum of Dankook University. (Ed.). (2010). The excavated costume from the tomb of Madam Haepyeong Yoon. Yongin: Dankook University Press.
  21. Seokjuseon Memorial Museum of Dankook University. (Ed.). (2012). Exhibition on costume relics of the last princess Deokon and her royal family from the Joseon Dynasty. Yongin: Dankook University Press.
  22. Song, M. K. (2016). A study on the excavated costume of lady Lee(1502-1579)'s tomb in Namyangju. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 19(4), 185-200. doi:10.16885/jktc.2016.12.19.4.185
  23. You, H. K., & Kim, M. J. (1998). 한국복식문화사 (개정판) [The history of Korean traditional costume (Rev. ed.)]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  24. 國婚定例 [Gukhon-Jeonglye]. (1749).
  25. 國朝五禮儀序例 [Gukjo-Oryeui-Seorye]. (1474).
  26. 國朝喪禮補編 [Gukjo-Sangrye-Bopyeon]. (1758).
  27. 國朝續五禮儀序例 [Gukjo-Sok-Oryeui-Seorye]. (1744).
  28. 樂學軌範 [Akhak-Gwebeom]. (1493).
  29. 尙方定例 [Sangbang-Jeonglye]. (1750).
  30. 禮葬廳謄錄 [Yejangcheong-Denglok]. (1898).
  31. (仁穆王后)殯殿魂殿都監儀軌 [Uigwe for the royal funeral rites of Queen Inmok]. (1632).
  32. (仁祖莊烈王后)嘉禮都監儀軌 [Uigwe for the royal wedding ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol] (1638). (2012, January 31). Oegyujanggak Uigwe. Retrieved January 31, 2012, from http://uigwe.museum.go.kr/content/viewer?id=uig_004&contentid=uig_004_0030_0220
  33. 莊烈王妃嘉禮稽制司謄錄 [Gyejesa-Denglok for the royal wedding ceremony of Queen Jangryeol]. (1638).
  34. 丁未嘉禮日記 [Jeongmi-Garye-Yilgi]. (1847).
  35. 淸衍郡主嘉禮謄錄 [Denglok for the royal wedding ceremony of princess Cheongyeon]. (1765).