• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.287-299
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• 1990

To analyse the royal marriage of Yi-Dynasty, the authors studied 'Kuk Hon Geong Rea', which is a historical record, published in 1749(King Yong-Jo), on the usage of marriage articles in the royal family. The essential steps or articles described in the record were as follows, Royal marriage of King : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's, proclamation of Queen and wedding ceremony(納采) (納徵) (冊妃) (親迎 尊雁 同牢). Royal marriage of Crown Prince : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's. proclamation of Crown Princess, wedding ceremony, and bride's gifts to her parents-in-law(納采) (納徵) (冊嬪) (親迎 尊雁 同牢) (朝見體). Royal marriage of Crown Princess : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's, wedding ceremony, bride's gifts to her parents-in-law(納采) (納徵) (尊雁 同牢) (見舅姑禮). Necessary articles for weddings were different according to royal status of the member in the royal family.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.360-378
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• 2018

Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.162-179
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• 2016

This study examined the 17th century wedding ceremonies of princes and princesses recorded in the "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)". The Joseon dynasty royal weddings were held outside the palace, so it could have influenced wedding ceremonies of commoners. Royal weddings for princes and princesses were considered to be on a level between that of a king and commoners. Wedding procedure of princes and princesses was carried out under the leadership of the royal family who officiated at a marriage with the king's approval. In addition, kindred of the king and high-ranking officials participated as the maid of honor in the wedding parade. This was completely different between the royal wedding and the scholar-gentry ones. A difference between the prince and the princess was that the princess paid her respect to the shrine of the house of her groom after the wedding ceremony. However, there was no process for the prince's bride. There also existed a wide disparity in the wedding goods of princes and princesses. The prince and the king's son-in-law both held a wedding ceremony to wear Chopo, but there was a difference in decoration or quantity of Danlyeong(團領) Cheollik(帖裏) Hoseul(護膝) belts. Only princes were allowed to use the ornamental knife and the embroidered pouch. While both the princess and prince's wife wore No-ui(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫) as the wedding clothes, there was discrimination of position in terms of hair decoration, Hwalhansam(闊汗衫), skirt, Hosu(胡袖) and Ni-ui(裏衣). There was also a difference of quantity of Jeogori and skirts, as well as various styles of gold decorations in order to distinguish the Gongju(daughter of the king) and the Gunju (daughter of the crown prince)'s position.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.21-29
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• 1991

To analyze tableware in wedding ceremonies of royal prince(1744, 1819) of Chosun Dynasty, the author studied the historic book-Gare Dogam Euigwae, in which wedding feast dishes for King and prince in Chosun Dynasty were described. The results obtained from the study were as follows, 1. For wedding feast dishes for prince, black lacquered table was used, and for King's wedding feast red lacquered table was used. 2. In wedding ceremony red silk table cloth was used. 3. Tables arranged in wedding ceremony had high legs. 4. Tablewares used in wedding ceremony were footed dishes. 5. Wedding ceremony arrangement was made up of four kinds of main table, a small boiled beef table, a large boiled beef table, four small round tables, a dining table, a candle stick, a incense holder, a vase with vaseholder and a liquor bottle with a holder.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.131-150
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• 2015

This article studied the procedures and items used in royal princess weddings by examining "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)" which describes Princess Hwasun(和順翁主, 1720-1758)'s wedding in 1732. This was the first wedding by a princess during King Yeongjo(英祖)'s reign. Preparation for the wedding was made based on the previous weddings of royal princesses, but it did not follow the old tradition. The wedding costs were cut down, and it was done in a simpler way than before. However, the simplification of elaborate wedding outfits were not part of this change as ceremonial robes such as No-ui(露衣), Jangsam(長衫) and Chopo(綃袍) were used without much alteration. The wedding ceremony of Princess Hwasun shows the transition process from the royal princess wedding ceremony traditions and rituals in the late 17th century to "Gukhonjeongrye", which emerged and became solidified as a new social norm in the 18th century. A legitimate royal princess and a de facto princess from King's concubine were hardly different when it came to their royal outfitting but the disparity in social status between the two was found in the materials used to make clothes for their respective husbands. Princess Hwasun's wedding procedure shown in "Garyedeungrok" is similar to that of "Gukjo-orye-ui(國朝五禮儀)": Napchae(納采), Nappye(納幣), Chinyeong(親迎), Dongroe(同牢), Hyeongugo(見舅姑), Hyeonsadang(見祠堂), and Seojohyeon(壻朝見). But "Garyedeungrok" deals with the procedures of Gantaek(揀擇), Buma-guanrye(駙馬冠禮), and Seonon(宣醞), which are not included in "Gukjo-orye-ui", and also with the process of preparation for wedding items and the information of related people. However, it is hard to learn about its specific shapes and features because it is often restricted to lists such as a list of clothing. Collecting new materials and an in-depth and succeeding study are required in the future.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.222-239
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• 2019

This paper studied Joseon royal incense, Buyonghyang, focusing on the case of Sunjo Sunwonwanghoo Garyedogam Uigwe. Incense was introduced to Korea in the period of the Three States with Buddhist cultures. Buyonghyang is an incense that represented the royal family and was used in various rituals. Civilians also burned this incense in front of a bride's palanquin at a wedding ceremony. Buyonghyang had various uses-ceremonial uses, as a fragrance, to mothproof, and medical uses. Buyonghyang is a combined incense with ten different ingredients. This study tracked the supply and demand of the incense ingredients through Takjijunjeol, Sejong Shilok Jiriji, and The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty. This paper identified properties of the ingredients and studied recipes using ancient medical books-Jejungshinpyeon, Donguibogam, etc. Then the cooperation and treatment of incense by craftsman were examined using the records of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, and Seungjeongwon Ilgi. The significance of Buyonghyang during the Joseon dynasty was studied by examining its use at a royal wedding ceremony. This study considered Sunjo's wedding ceremony based on Sunjo Sunwonwanghoo Garyedogam Uigwe which is highly regarded as a well-organized system compared to other Uigwe. Buronghyang was burned during all of the ceremonies which took place in the palace. Conversely, it is considered that Buyonghyang was burned only during the Bisuchekui ceremony (investiture), which took place in the bride's place, according to the record of the mobilization of court ladies for various incense burners for the Bisuchekui ceremony. Since the incense was able to be used only after Bisuchekui, it is considered that only the royal family could use the incense, and it was a symbolic incense of the Joseon Royal Family.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.96-108
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• 2009

This study is made on the royal lady's dress In late Joseon dynasty according to the King Heon-jong and Lady Kyung-bin's Wedding Diary in the year of Jung-mi(1847) and summarised as follows: Girls' full dress was a set of a red skirt, a violet undo. jacket, and a light yellow jacket and a green Gyeon-ma-gi(a kind of top jacket) with he. hair Saeng-meo-ri hanging Do-tu-rak-daeng-gi(a kind of hair ribbon). At the big ceremony, girls wore a green Dang-ui instead of Gyeon-ma-gi. A girl picked up as a royal concubine wore a green Won-sam, which was decorated with gilt letters meaning longevity, patched emblems of gilt letter meaning longevity on the breast and on the back, belted with Bong-dae(a red sash with gilt phoenexes), like a princess's full dress. At the Kyung-bin's installation of Crown Princess and her first greeting ceremony with royal elders, she wore a green Won-sam as a formal dress, which had an embroidered emblem of phoenix, the belt with crystal ornaments, Pae-ok(佩玉), Kyu(圭) of blue jade, Shou(綬) with an phoenix. At a Dong-wrae-yun(drinking ceremony after bride and bridegroom's bowing to each other), she wore the embroidered red Jang-sam as a formal dress. Kyung-bin wore a purple Won-sam with Bong-dae as a full dress for a royal feast. According to the occasions, the same dress was differentiated with ornaments and rotors. Ji-keum-bal was an attire for ordinary ceremony. The attire was equipped with a woven gold green Dang-ui with an emblem of phoenix, a blue gilt underskirt and a red gilt overskirt. No-ui was worn as outdoor clothes. Jang-sam was worn by various classes, so it was differentiated with materials and names according to her class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.19-33
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• 2008

Hair style of royal ladies in the 19th century according to the wedding record of King Heon-jong and Lady Sunhwagung is studied in this paper and summarized as follows: First, Saengmeori was a bridal hair style for the wedding night in Gyeonmagi(jacket) and Daeranchima(Skirt with gold trimming). It was a typical girls' hair style before the coming-of-age ceremony. It was composed of Saengmeoridari(wig), Seockunghwang, Jogduri(Coronet decorated with Jewellery), Saengdaeng-gi(hair ribbon) trimmed pearls, and jade disk trimmed pearls. Second, Garaemeori(double bun hair style) was the hair style with Wonsam when the chosen bride went to Byeol-Gung, a special palace for the bridal. It was composed of Gareachi(wig) and Cheopji(small wig) with the frontal hair ornament, jogduri, and Saidang-gi(hair ribbon). Third, Jojimmeori(single bun hair style) is a basic hair style for the madame. It was composed of jojimmeorichilbo, jogduri, jojimmeoridari(wig), and Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament. Fourth, Keunmeori is the second most important hair style for the court ceremony. It was composed of Eoyeomjogduri, Eoyeomdari(wig), Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament, Keunmeoridari(wig), and Keunmeorichilbo. Fifth, Susik, the most important hair style for the court ceremony, is the hair style for ceremonies including the day of becoming the formal queen, the first greeting day to the King's family. It was composed of 4 kinds of wigs and Susik-chilbo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.275-280
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• 1991

To analyze tablewares and table flowers in wedding ceremonies of king and royal prince (1866, 1906) of Chosun dynasty, the author studied the historic book-Gare Dogam Euigwae, in which wedding feast dishes for king and prince in Chosun Dynasty were described. The results obtained from the study were as follows. 1. Tablewares used for wedding ceremony in the year of 1866, 1096 were same as that of from the year 1744 till 1819. 2. For wedding feast dishes for the prince, black lacquered table was used, for the crown prince's wedding feast red lacquered table and for the Emperor's wedding feast yellow lacquered table were used. 3. Table flowers used for wedding ceremony in the year of 1866, 1906 were same as that of from the year 1744 till 1819.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 1991

To analyse wedding feast dishes of royal prince of Chosun Dynasty(1744, 1819), the author studied historic book-GareDogamEuigwae, in which the wedding feast dishes of King and Prince in Chosun Dynasty were described. The results obtained from the study were as follows, 1. Arranged dishes in wedding ceremony were four kinds of table, main table, second table, third table and fourth table. That table setting was same as that of the year 1651. 2. Meal ceremonies were in sacrificial food partaking, drinking ceremony and courtesy of levee. 3. In wedding ceremony, prince and princess drank three cups of liquor. At the first cup they eat abalones soup and others in a small round table(初味), at the second cup fine noodles and others in another table(二味), at the third cup bun stuffed with fish and others in the other table(三味). 4. In sacrificial food partaking and drinking ceremony, King drank nine cups of liquor, at first cup, King eats a small boiled beef(小膳) and (初味), at second cup eats(二味), at third cup eats(三味),${\cdots}$, at nineth cup, King eats a soup, a large boiled beef(大膳) and fruits. 5. Dish materials and quantities used for wedding ceremony in the year of 1819 was same as that of the year 1651.