• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.61-69
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• 1999

The dyeing experiments were done by using tannin pigments and herbs for natural fabrics such as ramie, hemp and silk. The anti-bacterial ability and color fastness were examined for dyed fabrics. Dye materials containing tannin pigment such as oak tree leaf showed rich dyeing on ramie, hemp, and silk fabrics when the pH of dye solution is lower as well as the dyeing temperature is higher. In crimson dyeing, the colour of fabric showed red-purple when the crimson pigment was extracted at 40$^{\circ}C$, while yellow-red when extracted above 70$^{\circ}C$. The colour fastness of dye materials containing tannin pigment was excellent showing 3~4 grade or above, while most of those derived from chinese medicine showed poor colour fastness of below 3 grade. The anti-bacterial ability of dye materials derived from chinese medicine was high, since the sappan wood fabric showed low bacteria reduction rate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.729-742
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• 2005

This paper studied the ban on 'Po[포]', including hemp and ramie, on the basis of Joseon Wangcho Silok (the True Record of Joseon Dynasty). Po is the important point which can help to understand the people's life related with clothing. This paper showed that in the early years of the Joseon Dynasty, the state had forced kinds of bans on some fabrics many times. Among the bans of the fabrics-making the main part was the bans on Po, along with rice, used as money in those days. The state had on Po enacted on the policy to intend to promote paper money circulation more widely. However, people didn't want to use paper money. The reason why cloth could be practical and functional as a kind of currency was that people could make clothes with it at any time while they used it as money. People avoided using paper money that could not be used in that way, and so did public officials. At that time, Po that was generally used as money was the hemp of five warp threads. The measurement of the hemp in 7chi[촌; a Korean inch] by 35chok[척] and 32cm by 16m by modern metric. It also showed that it has been thought that the blended fabrics are the fabrics that were made of raw silk-threads and cotton threads as warp and weft respectively. However, the fact that there is a record of 'Jeo Ma Gyo Jik Po[저마교직포의]'(blended fabrics and clothes made of ramie and hemp) and there appear the new proofs of the fieldwork investigation shows that the concept of blended fabrics might be various or changeable as time passed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.79-85
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• 2002

To develope natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the waste grape juice. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing time, dyeing temperature, pH and concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(${\Delta}E$) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk dyed fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were very slightly increased with dyeing time and the color of dyed silk was light purple and the cotton, ramie and hemp was light red purple. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color became lighter with dyeing temperature increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color changed from light purple to blue with the pH of dyebath increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were slightly increased with the concentration of dyebath increased. The color of dyed fabric changed with the mordant treatment and were different among the experimental fabrics. On the whole, blue tone increased with the Al and Fe mordant and green tone increased with the Cu mordant. The color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to light, washing (change) and perspiration (change) was bad and color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing were good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.218-229
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of cotton and ramie fabrics with pine needles colorants were studied by investigating the analysis of pine needles colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use; in addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of the maximum absorption for pine needles extract was 285nm, and pine needles colorants produced a yellow color. From FT-IR and GC-MS results, it was assumed that chromophoric substance from pine needles extracts were mixed with flavonol tannin and flavanol tannin. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake and a Freundlich absorption isotherm was obtained. A larger dye uptake occurred as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting and the dye uptake of fabrics improved by mordanting. The colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a low rating; however, colorfastness to washing and dry cleaning of cotton fabrics mordanted with N.Cu, and friction fastness of ramie fabric mordanted with Cu improved. The dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. In addition, the ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability improved in fabrics dyed with pine needles extracts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.486-493
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• 2008

Safflower red colorants extracted by two solvents including the traditional ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution was used for dyeing cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, silk, wool, and nylon fabrics. The effects of extraction solvents on the reflectance, K/S value, and color properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated. Wash/dry cleaning and light colorfastness were evaluated. Reflectance curves of cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, and silk fabrics dyed with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were similar, showing the maximum absorption at 520nm, to that of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by ash solution. The reflectance curves of wool and nylon fabrics were different, showing the maximum absorption at 400nm. K/S values of dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution with the exception of nylon. $L^{*},\;a^{*},\;b^{*}$, and $C^{*}$ of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution except for $L^{*}$ of nylon and $b^{*}$ of viscose rayon. Color difference(${{\Delta}E}^*$) of the dyed fabrics between ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution increased in the order named as cotton, silk, ramie, viscose rayon, wool, and nylon. Regardless of extraction solvents, safflower red colorants produced RP color on cotton, ramie, and nylon, R color on viscose rayon and silk, and YR color on wool. Wash/dry cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics was high above 3/4 rating but light fastness was very poor. It is considered that the use of $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution instead of the traditional ash solution would be more effective in terms of color reproducibility and extraction process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.809-819
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• 1999

The scientific analysis of buried fabrics from the 16th century tomb of Kim HeumJo was conducted focusing on the conservation of fabrics, In order to find out the appropriate cleaning solvent and detergent for historical textiles physical chemical and biological analysis was conducted. The following results are obtained from this study : 1, The buried fabrics from the tomb of Kim HeumJo were composed of cotton silk and ramie. Most of fabrics had lost their original colors faded to brown. It was revealed variations in weaves and patterns were very developed at that times. 2. The chemical components of soils are hydrocarbons alkyl alcohols nitrogen compounds aromatic organic acid which is supposed to be from a human body microorganisms and their by-products. 3. Seven kinds of fungi Actinomycetes Corynebacterium spp Micrococcus luteus Bacillus Clostridium were isolated from the fabrics. The most common fungus was Bacillus.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1353-1360
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a cultural products design of korean image using fabrics. The study is carry out in literature research methods and make sample product. We examine existing researches about cultural product design development to understand developed items, materials, and design directions. The brainstorming method and the established literature researches were used to obtain the design components of Korean image. A cultural products design was developed into the decorative structural details. The results can be summarized as follows: Korean image is pure, passive, gentle, small, and lasting life-force at weeds and wild flowers. Korean form is rounded curve and soft silhouette as streamy, not exaggerate. Korean color is not a finishing treatment, non-dyed natural color, or pastel, light greyish, and dull tone. Korean textile is a natural materials as linen, ramie, and coarse silk. Final sample products are table supplies, home goods and bed goods applying the sewing method of tuck, quilting, top-stitching, patch work, applique and embroidery.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.89-100
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• 1999

This study was carried to a textile conservation process included washing effect fiber analysis such as fiber identification fabric density and thickness color fading and of extracted soils. the following results were obtained. 1. AS a result of investigating to fabric surfaces by S.E.M all of cleaning methods wet cleaning-solvent cleaning in charge system were effective to remove soils from fabrics. 2. The buried fabrics were made of silk few of them were cotton ramie and hemp. 3. According to fabric density and thickness used fabrics were almost medium weight fabrics. 4. Low values of L, a, b indicated that the colors of these fabrics were faded to yellow and brown. 5. The soil components were hydrocarbon-alkane group alkyl alcohol and ketone group.