• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.778-792
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify women (aged from 49~59), who have recently emerged as consumers, and their clothing preferences, and it suggests how to make jackets provide better fit and wearability. The results of the study are as follows. In drafting a pattern for size 66 tailored collar jacket with an X-silhouette, it was made with front waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, a back length of B/4+1.3 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 34.5 cm, to allow for easy movement. In drafting a size 66 high neck collar jacket, it was made with a front and back waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 35 cm. In drafting a size 66 sports collar jacket with an A-silhouette, it was made with front and back waist lengths measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, and a side dart of 1.3 cm, to provide raglan sleeves. The last experimental jacket pattern improved the appearance and moving fitness evaluation especially for shoulder and arm movement. Based on analysis, jackets were made and subjected to an appearance evaluation using multi-modules to test the level of wearing satisfaction for each fabric and silhouette. the results of the multi-module wearing tests indicate that the preferred silhouettes caused less stressful situations in terms of both psychological and physiological signals.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.446-455
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• 2014

This study revealed the results related to the functionality of outdoor wear required when man and women in their 30s to 50s engage in outdoor activities. Based on the results of the survey, we proposed composition draft for a smart outdoor jacket with main functions of GPS device and light-emitting device using solar cell and EL. Absorption and release of sweat, functionality regarding rain and wind, and lightweightness, etc. from material functionalities of outdoor wear were found to be important. From function required in clothing for outdoor activity, location tracking, night glow, and lighting functions were found to be most important. For results investigating the necessity of the jacket's location tracking function and lighting function using solar cell, high scores of 3.9~4.0 were given. Purchase intentions for smart outdoor jacket with location tracking and lighting functions devised by this study were fairly positive and most responses indicated that the appropriate purchase price was between 200,000 to 300,000 won while possible problems of this smart outdoor jacket were listed in the order of washing inconvenience, high price, device weight, and discomfort in movement. The draft proposal to integrate with wearable devices for smart outdoor jacket prototype is as follows: Solar cell has been attached to the upper arm but placed inside a transparent pocket which has been detachable for washing convenience while the solar cell and controller have been integrated into a single unit. Using frequent movement exhibited by the arms, EL has been attached along the center line of the raglan sleeve for easy spotting when used as an emergency signal or for night lighting function during outdoor activity. GPS has been attached on the left sleeve so that the person can bend the left arm inward and operate the GPS screen with the right hand while walking or running outdoors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.617-625
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• 2016

In women's clothing the shoulders are distorted and exaggerated. Consequently, the wearers' bodies are transformed and interpreted according to modern standards. We therefore refer to this aspect of women's clothing as the power shoulder. This study aims to analyze the differences in sensibility images on variations in the shoulder shape of power shoulder jackets. Nine samples were examined that involved combinations of three variations of the shoulder height and three variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. Four factors were selected: attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. Among these factors, attractiveness is the most important. The study results indicated that changes in shoulder height acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on all four factors. In contrast, changes in shoulder width acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on attractiveness, personality, and activity but not on self-respect. It also had an influence on the interaction effect of attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. We anticipate that this study will help individual customers select clothing that is suitable for their preference and body shape because it is now possible for them to estimate images of power shoulder jackets.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.151-167
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out comparison of preference style and wearing style of jacket by body perception and satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, t-test, Pearson's Correlation, Coefficients MANOVA, Two-Way ANOVA and Duncan's test were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of upper body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, lower arm, waist and lower abdomen. The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of lower body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker hips, thighs, calves, ankles, and longer crotch length. 2) The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about neck thickness and length prefer jacket with collar but wear jacket without cellar. The subjects with the smallest bust wear jacket with short lapel. The subjects with wider shoulder wear jacket with narrower shoulder width. The subjects with more dissatisfaction about shoulder incline wear raglan sleeve jacket. The subjects with wider hips wear hip line length jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.13-28
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• 2006

The object of this study lies on classifying the size, which is mostly favored in Korea where the wedding dress is usually regarded as an article for rent, and on suggesting the range of sleeve design and that of neck line of bodice. For that, I extracted the average size by analyzing and researching the standard size of actual bodice from real wedding dress manufacturing company. According to the result of the research I named the standard size of Korean wedding dress for rent as 'WM' which has the girth of 88cm and the waist measure of 69cm. Based on the size 'WM', I also named the size 'WS' which has the girth of 82cm with extra length of 6cm up and down and the waist measure of 64cm with extra length of 5cm, and the size 'WL' which has the girth of 94cm and the waist measure of 74cm with same extra length as the size 'WS'. The extra space for the inseam of the back is 3 inches for left and right for all sizes and the mark of body size is standardized as 'girth-waist measure'. After that, I suggested the design types of sleeves and neck line of bodice which defined as its size by classifying the bodice of wedding dress based on its size. Generally the neck line of the tank top style has the widest range of wearable size, and the high neck line and bateau neck line types have the narrowest range. And the sleeveless type has the widest range of wearable size while the raglan type has the narrowest one.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.29-39
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• 2002

It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.