• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.481-501
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• 2024

This study aims to analyze the traditional embroidery in Korea, China and Japan based on Pierre Bourdieu's cultural theory, habitus and field. We conducted literature and case studies examining the late Joseon Dynasty, Qing Dynasty, and Edo Period, respectively. Based on previous studies, we reviewed three fields: social systems, goods and economy, and environmental and regional. We also explored art, culture, and national tastes as habitus. We then examined each country's embroidery practices through these lenses, and the practice of habitus is as follows. We determined that traditional Korean court embroidery in the late Joseon Dynasty was characterized as controlled elegance, while private embroidery reflected earnest simplicity. During the Qing Dynasty, traditional Chinese court embroidery depicted sumptuous power, while private embroidery portrayed harmonious splendor. Finally, traditional Japanese embroidery in the Edo period reflected symbolic natural beauty and exaggerated comic beauty. As a result, Korea, China, and Japan have had a relatively close geographical location and a similar climate environment zone, and since ancient times, many cultures have been exchanged with each other. However, it seems that the characteristics of traditional embroidery have developed slightly differently due to the practice of habitus, which was caused by of the conspiracy of field and habitus of the three countries. The significance of this study is expected to explain the relationship between the birth and extinction of costumes and embroidery by establishing a systematic and objective framework for aesthetics research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.517-546
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• 2024

The aim of this study is to investigate the fashion industry's response to climate change and how these discussions unfolded at the 28th Conference of the Parties (COP28) to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC). Climate change response projects by B Corp-certified fashion companies are examined, focusing on stakeholder efforts and reviewing online media reports. Text data were collected from web documents, interviews, and op-eds relating to COP28 from December 2018 to April 2024 and analyzed using text mining and semantic network analysis to identify critical keywords and contexts. The analysis revealed that the fashion industry is fulfilling its environmental responsibilities through various strategies, prompting changes in consumer behavior by advocating sustainable consumption, including carbon removal, energy transition, and recycling promotion. Stakeholders in online media and those present at COP28 discussed issues relating to climate change in the fashion industry, focusing on environmental protection, energy, greenhouse gas emissions, sustainable material usage, and social responsibility. Key issues at COP28 included policy and regulation, climate change response, energy transition, carbon emissions management, and environmental, social, and governance (ESG) standards. Additionally, by examining the main collections exhibited at the fashion show during COP28, the study analyzed how messages about climate change were conveyed. Fashion companies communicated the industry's response through exhibitions and fashion shows, suggesting a move toward balancing environmental protection and economic growth through the development of sustainable materials, the expansion of recycling and reuse practices, and the modern reinterpretation of cultural heritage.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.502-516
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• 2024

Wearable technology is expected to maintain continuous marketability and prospects, with its scope gradually expanding beyond the fashion sector to encompass fashion accessories. Meanwhile, the wedding industry is currently reflecting consumer preferences that emphasize individuality and emotional connection. As wedding trends evolve, there is a growing interest in unique and differentiated wedding styles. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to create high-value designs by integrating wearable LED technology into wedding accessories and dresses to meet the emotional needs of modern consumers. To achieve this, we analyzed the LED wedding accessories currently available in the market. Based on the findings, we designed and developed new such accessories and dresses through planning, development, and production processes. First, the study found out that LED wedding accessories are gaining attention as high-value products. Second, a survey of the domestic market for LED wedding accessories highlighted the needs for wedding dress designs that can be paired with LED hairpins. Third, we used Lilypad Arduino's Lily Tiny to design and develop LED wedding hairpins and dresses through a production process. Finally, by styling LED wedding hairpins and dresses together, we demonstrated the potential in creating products that blend emotion and technology, in line with the current wearable technology trends. Overall, this study offers a fresh perspective on design development in wedding accessories.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.547-563
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• 2024

This study aims to examine the expressive characteristics of the New Chinese style in the collection of Chinese fashion designer Ziggy Chen, analyze the inner meaning, and suggest a new direction in Chinese fashion design. As a research method, the background and concept of New-Chinese style occurrence were examined through previous studies, and the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in fashion were investigated. The characteristics of the New Chinese style were summarized as cultural tradition, historical ethnicity, and pluralistic convergence. Based on these contents, the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in Ziggy Chen's men's fashion design were analyzed. The data collection range was selected as the range of 20 seasons collected from 2012 S/S to 2022 A/W, which was collected on fashion sites and the brand's official Instagram. The analysis results are as follows. First, subcultural resistance is a retro and ragged decadence formed by combining punk elements and industrial styles based on the clothing styles of lower-class Chinese people in the 17th and 90s. Second, cultural traditionality was influenced by traditional culture by mainland Chinese designers, who expressed the conservative presence of tradition and the Chinese style by looking at it from an oriental perspective. Third, historical ethnicity forms a Chinese fashion culture in which the national spirit and the development of the times coexist, while traditional culture and contemporary social values develop in harmony. Fourth, traditional fashion develops by combining a contemporary aesthetic sense and lifestyle with pluralistic convergence.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.895-911
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to examine consumers' perceptions of eco-friendly children's-wear and their impact on the selection criteria for children's-wear and stores. A descriptive survey method using a self-administered questionnaire was employed. The sample consisted of mothers with children under the age of 13 residing in Seoul and the Gyeonggi area. Data were collected from September 2011 to October, 2011. The collected data were analyzed to find the differences between purchasers and non-purchasers of eco-friendly children's-wear in terms of their perceptions of eco-friendly children's-wear, as well as the influence of these perceptions on the consideration degree of criteria for the selection of children's wear and store. The results indicate that perceptions of eco-friendly children's-wear implied five key factors related to quality reliability, expected value, style, degree of recognition, and dissatisfaction with design and price. The results also revealed some differences between the group purchasing eco-friendly children's-wear and the group not purchasing eco-friendly children's-wear. These different perceptions were related to the aspects of quality reliability, expected value, style, degree of recognition. In general, the non-purchasing group displayed a lower mean score than the purchasing group. Both groups showed a low interest in aesthetic appreciation and the degree of recognition factor. The results showed that consumer's perceptions of eco-friendly children's-wear had an influence on the criteria for the selection of children's-wear and store type in both groups. Considering the findings of the study, it is clear that both purchasers and non-purchasers of eco-friendly children's-wear showed differences in their perceptions and purchasing behavior. Therefore, marketing strategies to appeal to the non-purchasing group should be differentiated from strategies used to ensure the loyalty of the purchasing group.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2013

With environmental pollution becoming a serious problem, recently there has been increased interest in the environment and health. In addition, the development of materials for environmentally friendly and functional clothing has increased. Environmentally friendly products that use bark fibers of the mulberry(dak) tree are expressed in terms of dak fiber and Hanji yarn. This research analyzed consumer's perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing. The research results are as follows. Based on analyzing images of Hanji and Hanji yarn, Hanji was categorized into four images that can be described as natural, pure, decorative, and functional, and Hanji yarn infant clothing was categorized into three images that can be described as natural, decorative, and functional. Based on the analysis of well-being elements in subjects' lifestyles, the following four inclinations were found: environmental friendliness, pursuit of novelty, life care, and environmental protection. On this basis, the subjects were categorized into three groups: the trend-pursuing group, the life-care group, and the social responsibility group. Subjects' perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing were investigated, and these products were found to have a strong image of being Korean, traditional, and natural, while being weakly perceived as comfortable, functional, and practical. Analyzing the correlation between images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing and lifestyle groups revealed that these products were not perceived differently according to group. This study showed that Hanji and Hanji yarn are terms that are commonly associated with positive clothing material. However, both Hanji and Hanji yarn are perceived negatively in terms of functional image, which is an important factor in clothing material. In addition, even among consumers who pursue a lifestyle based on well-being, the functional image of Hanji yarn was not perceived highly. Hence, it is necessary to further examine the effect of terms such as Hanji and Hanji yarn on consumer choices. Therefore, caution is considered needed when using such terms in the marketing of related products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.579-594
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• 2014

The areas of fashion research and fashion design aesthetics & fashion history have been studied under a common research heading as a Humanities subject in the UK and the USA, and as Clothing and Textiles Studies in Korea. The purpose of this paper was to analyze the 2004~2013 research tendencies in terms of reporting methods and contents from 181 world-renowned Fashion Theory research papers within the UK and USA fashion research corpus, and 359 Korean research papers from The Research Journal of Costume Culture related to fashion design aesthetics & costume history field. The subject areas, periods, methodologies, and differences in the topics of the studies were examined. The results of the research are as follows. Regarding the research authorship and length of the research papers, in Fashion Theory most papers were written by a single English-speaking or other foreign language-speaking author and were on average longer than 21 pages, while in The Research Journal of Costume Culture, many papers were jointly written by two Korean researchers and were between 11 and 20 pages. Regarding the content, Fashion Theory was connected to relatively wide and diverse periodical and regional boundaries including the body, clothing, the fashion media, and the overall fashion system, while The Research Journal of Costume Culture revolved around the body and clothing, textiles, the fashion media, and costumes. In addition, since the late $20^{th}$ century, the studies appeared to be related to the current Western world overall or to the country of the author. Regarding the research methodology, Fashion Theory used diverse research subjects and methodologies, and research was conducted on topics relating to fashion culture or fashion aesthetics. On the other hand, The Research Journal of Costume Culture featured relatively more dynamic studies aimed at suggesting developments or solutions to problems. It was found that a large share of that research focused on detailed style analyses and suggestions for aspects such as design elements and design developments. Such differences are considered to be caused by the inherent differences between the academic departments for the Humanities, and the Human Ecology. The above research results are expected to provide fundamental information in setting a direction for future research to assist the globalization of domestic research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.794-808
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• 2014

This research aimed to examine the effect of emotional dissonance and emotional intelligence on the prosocial behavior of fashion salespeople in department stores, and whether emotional intelligence mediates the relationship between emotional dissonance and prosocial behavior. Moreover, we aimed to suggest a method to improve the prosocial behavior of salespeople as a strategy to obtain a continuous competitive advantage in an increasingly competitive fashion distribution environment. This research was conducted through a questionnaire survey, and 345 responses were collected from department store salespeople for the final analysis. First, the analysis results showed that the emotional dissonance of salespeople arose from their dealings with their organization and with customers. Prosocial behavior was deduced to be a factor of the cooperation with coworker and extra-role customer service. The emotional intelligence was deduced to be a factor of the use of emotion, regulation of emotion, self-emotion appraisal, and others'emotion appraisal. Second, with a higher level of emotional dissonance against the organization, there was less cooperation with coworker, while a higher emotional dissonance against customers resulted in increased cooperation with coworker. Third, it appeared that with a higher level of emotional dissonance against the organization, there was a higher utilization of use of emotion, self-emotion appraisal, and others'emotion appraisal of emotional intelligence. Fourth, as the regulation of emotion, self-emotion appraisal, and use of emotion were higher, there was more cooperation with coworker, whereas an increase in the utilization of one's own emotion and emotional control resulted in a higher level of extra-role customer service. Finally, emotional intelligence has a significant mediating effect between emotional dissonance and prosocial behavior. The above results suggest that for department stores to improve the prosocial behavior of their sales staff requires the establishment of a method to enhance the emotional intelligence of the staff. The results also indicate that there is a need for department stores to prepare a systemic tool to enable them to select people with a high degree of emotional intelligence when recruiting salespeople.