The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Climate change messages in the fashion industry discussed at COP28

  • Yeong-Hyeon Choi (Center for Data Information, National Institute of Green Technology) ;
  • Sangyung Lee (Center for Data Information, National Institute of Green Technology)
  • Received : 2024.06.01
  • Accepted : 2024.08.06
  • Published : 2024.08.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The aim of this study is to investigate the fashion industry's response to climate change and how these discussions unfolded at the 28th Conference of the Parties (COP28) to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC). Climate change response projects by B Corp-certified fashion companies are examined, focusing on stakeholder efforts and reviewing online media reports. Text data were collected from web documents, interviews, and op-eds relating to COP28 from December 2018 to April 2024 and analyzed using text mining and semantic network analysis to identify critical keywords and contexts. The analysis revealed that the fashion industry is fulfilling its environmental responsibilities through various strategies, prompting changes in consumer behavior by advocating sustainable consumption, including carbon removal, energy transition, and recycling promotion. Stakeholders in online media and those present at COP28 discussed issues relating to climate change in the fashion industry, focusing on environmental protection, energy, greenhouse gas emissions, sustainable material usage, and social responsibility. Key issues at COP28 included policy and regulation, climate change response, energy transition, carbon emissions management, and environmental, social, and governance (ESG) standards. Additionally, by examining the main collections exhibited at the fashion show during COP28, the study analyzed how messages about climate change were conveyed. Fashion companies communicated the industry's response through exhibitions and fashion shows, suggesting a move toward balancing environmental protection and economic growth through the development of sustainable materials, the expansion of recycling and reuse practices, and the modern reinterpretation of cultural heritage.

Keywords

References

  1. AFI Insider. (2023, December 13). 5 highlights from the fashion industry's presence at COP28. Africa Fashion International. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://africanfashioninternational.com/blogs/insider/5-highlights-from-the-fashion-industry-s-presence-at-cop28
  2. Arora, P. (2024). COP28: Ambitions, realities, and future. Environmental Sustainability, 7, 107-113. doi:10.1007/s42398-024-00304-0
  3. Baek, Y. J., Lee, S., & Chung, Y. W. (2023). A study on the technical efficiency of productivity in developing countries: Emphasizing the role of climate resilience. Journal of Energy & Climate Change, 18(2), 86-101. doi:10.22728/jecc.2023.18.2.086
  4. Bag, S., Rahman, M. S., Rogers, H., Srivastava, G., & Pretorius, J. H. C. (2023). Climate change adaptation and disaster risk reduction in the garment industry supply chain network. Transportation Research Part E: Logistics and Transportation Review, 171, 103031. doi:10.1016/j.tre.2023.103031
  5. Bazaar. (2022, September 5). 기후 변화에 대응하는 달라진 컬렉션 풍경 [The changing landscape of collections in response to climate change]. Harper's Bazaar. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.harpersbazaar.co.kr/article/70314
  6. B Corporation. (n.d.). B impact assessment. Retrieved April 29, 2024, from https://www.bcorporation.net/en-us/programs-and-tools/b-impact-assessment
  7. Bick, R., Halsey, E., & Ekenga, C. C. (2018). The global environmental injustice of fast fashion. Environmental Health, 17, 92. doi:10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7
  8. Blazquez, M. (2024). The Metaverse and its potential for digital sustainability in fashion. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 15(3), 303-319. doi:10.1080/20932685.2024.2339236
  9. Boykoff, M., Chandler, P., Church, P., & Osnes, B. (2021). Examining climate change and sustain- able/fast fashion in the 21st century: 'Trash the Runway'. Oxford Open Climate Change, 1(1), 1-13. doi:10.1093/oxfclm/kgab003
  10. British Fashion Council. (n.d.). Fashion switch to green. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/Institute-of-Positive-Fashion/Fashion-SWITCH-to-Green
  11. Changing Markets Foundation. (n.d.). Synthetics anonymous 2.0: Fashion's persistent plastic problem. Retrieved March 27, 2024, from https://changingmarkets.org/report/fossil-fashion-todays-fashion-industry-has-become-synonymous-with-overconsumption-a-snowballing-waste-crisis-widespread-pollution-and-the-exploitation-of-workers-in-global-supply-chains-w
  12. Chloe. (2021). Environmental report 2021. Retrieved May 20, 2024, from https://www.chloe.com/cloud/chloewp/uploads/2022/07/Chloe%CC%81_Environmental_report_2021.pdf
  13. Chloe. (n.d.a). Vision 2025. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.chloe.com/kr/chloe/%EC%97%AC%EC%84%B1/subhome/planet_section
  14. Chloe. (n.d.b). The 'Rewilding for Climate Success' range. Retrieved May 20, 2024, from https://www.chloe.com/gb/chloe/women/subhome/rewildingforclimatesuccess_section
  15. Choi, Y.-H. (2021). Vegan fashion and dilemma: Macroscopic approach using social big data. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea.
  16. Choi, Y.-H., & Choi, M.-H. (2022). Intellectual structure and research trends of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture: Bibliometric quantitative and qualitative semantic network approaches. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 30(4), 608-630. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2022.30.4.608
  17. Choi, Y.-H., & Lee, K.-H. (2020). Korean consumers' political consumption of Japanese fashion products. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 44(2), 295-309. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2020.44.2.295
  18. Choi, Y.-H., & Lee, S. (2024a). Evaluation of communication effectiveness of cruelty-free fashion brands: A comparative study of brand-led and consumer-perceived images. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 32(2), 247-259. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2024.32.2.247
  19. Choi, Y.-H., & Lee, S. (2024b). Exploring the phenomenon of veganphobia in vegan food and vegan fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 32(3), 381-397. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2024.32.3.381
  20. Choi, Y.-H., & Yeom, S. (2024). Awareness, attitude, and behavior of global and Korean consumers towards vegan fashion consumption: A social big data analysis. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 32(1), 38-57. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2024.32.1.38
  21. Chung, S., & Yim, E. (2020). Fashion activism for sustainability on social media. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 28(6), 815-829. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2020.28.6.815
  22. Climate Cardinals. (n.d.). Sophia Kianni. Retrieved July 1, 2024, from https://www.climatecardinals.org/sophiakianni
  23. Cook, G. (2017, September 15). British Fashion Council launches climate change initiative with Vivienne Westwood. Business of Fashion. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sustainability/british-fashion-council-announce-climate-change-initiative-with-vivienne-westwood
  24. CTis. (n.d.). The first step toward a sustainable future for humanity, the 'United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.ctis.re.kr/ko/contents.do?key=1604
  25. Debnath, B., Siraj, M. T., Rashid, K. H. O., Bari, A. M., Karmaker, C. L., & Al Aziz, R. (2023). Analyzing the critical success factors to implement green supply chain management in the apparel manufacturing industry: Implications for sustainable development goals in the emerging economies. Sustainable Manufacturing and Service Economics, 2, 100013. doi:10.1016/j.smse.2023.100013
  26. Douglass, R. (2023a, December 13). Everything the fashion industry needs to know about COP28. Fashion United. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://fashionunited.com/news/business/everything-the-fashion-industry-needs-to-know-about-cop28/2023121357352
  27. Douglass, R. (2023b, December 12). COP28: Ganni, Fashion Revolution and more discuss sustainably clothing 10 billion people. Fashion United. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/cop28-ganni-fashion-revolution-and-more-discuss-sustainably-clothing-10-billion-people/2023121273082
  28. Firth, L. (2022, October 31). Meet Sophia Kianni, the Iranian-American climate activist representing the middle east at COP27 in Egypt. Vogue Arabia, Retrieved July 1, 2024, from https://en.vogue.me/culture/sophia-kianni-livia-firth-iranian-american-climate-activist-cop27-egypt
  29. Fossil Fuel Fashion. (n.d.). We are wearing oil. Retrieved March 26, 2024, from https://www.fossilfuelfashioncampaign.com
  30. Griffiths, A. (2023, December 8). Stella McCartney presents sustainable market of material innovations at COP28. Dezeen. Retrieved March 26, 2024, from https://www.dezeen.com/2023/12/08/stella-mccartney-sustainable-market-cop28
  31. Hong, S. W. (2023, September 18). 세상은 불타고 있지만, 우리는 여전히 신발을 산다 [The world is burning, but we are still buying shoes]. Fashion Insights. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.fi.co.kr/main/view.asp?idx=80149
  32. Hwang, J. S. (2023, December 20). 제28차 유엔기후변화협약 당사국총회(COP28) 주요 성과 및 시사점 [Key outcomes and implications of the 28th conference of the parties (COP28) to the UN framework convention on climate change]. Retrieved July 25, 2024, from https://www.kita.net/researchTrade/report/tradeBrief/tradeBriefDetail.do?no=2521
  33. IEA. (2023). CO2 emissions in 2022. Retrieved March 26, 2024, from https://www.iea.org/reports/co2-emissions-in-2022
  34. Ikram, M. (2022). Transition toward green economy: Technological Innovation's role in the fashion industry. Current Opinion in Green and Sustain- able Chemistry, 37, 100657. doi:10.1016/j.cogsc.2022.100657
  35. Jain, A. N. (2023, December 10). Shantnu & Nikhil showcase at the UN sustainable fashion summit 2023. Lifestyle Asia. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.lifestyleasia.com/ind/style/fashion/shantnu-nikhil-showcase-at-the-un-sustainablefashion-summit-2023
  36. Jang, N. K. (2015). The types and characteristics of fashion design adapting to climate change. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 15(3), 35-51. doi:10.18652/2015.15.3.3
  37. Kalambura, S., Pedro, S., & Paixao, S. (2020). Fashion fashion -Sustainability and climate change. Comparative study in Portugal and Croatia. Social Ecology: Journal for Environmental Thought and Sociological Research, 29(2), 269-291. doi:10.17234/SocEkol.29.2.6
  38. Kim, J. Y. (2023, December 19). COP28 최대 성과, '화석연료로부터의 전환'..."패션업계 끼칠 영향은?" [The key achievement of COP28: Transitioning away from fossil fuels... What impact will it have on the fashion industry?]. Greenium. Retrieved July 25, 2024, from https://greenium.kr/climate-industry-cop28-fashion-transitioning-away-from-fossil-fuels-in-energy-systems-effects
  39. Kim, Y.-K., & Ko, B. K. (2022). 기후변화 대응과 섬유.패션산업의 탄소중립화 [Climate change response and carbon neutrality in the textile and fashion industry]. Fiber Technology and Industry, 26(4), 165-175.
  40. Kumar, A. (2023, December 7). COP28: LVMH, Rami Kadi, Indra, Gelareh at the first COP fashion show hosted at expo city Dubai. Gulf News. Retrieved July 24, 2024, from https://gulfnews.com/uae/cop28-lvmh-rami-kadi-indra-gelarehat-the-first-cop-fashion-show-hosted-at-expo-citydubai-1.99798475
  41. Lee, H.-Y., & Park, H.-W. (2009). A study on the multi-functional fashion design: Focused on the climate change and environment consciousness. Journal of Fashion Business, 13(2), 123-135.
  42. Lee, J. O. (2017, September 18). 영국 패션업계, 런던패션위크서 환경운동 '스위치' 펼친다 [British fashion industry to launch environmental campaign 'Switch' at London fashion week]. Star Fashion. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.kstarfashion.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=128564
  43. Lee, S., & Choi, Y.-H. (2024). Digital readiness for climate adaptation strategy: Implications for technology implementation and community support. Journal of Energy & Climate Change, 19(1), 187-207. doi:10.22728/JECC.2024.19.1.187
  44. Leigh, E. (2022, April 18). The fearless originality of Gelareh design's empoweringly edgy couture. Beautiful Bizarre. Retrieved April 29, 2024, from https://beautifulbizarre.net/2022/04/18/gelareh-designs-couture
  45. Li, Y., Zhao, X., Shi, D., & Li, X. (2014). Governance of sustainable supply chains in the fast fashion industry. European Management Journal, 32(5), 823-836. doi:10.1016/j.emj.2014.03.001
  46. Llanura, M. (2023a, December 20). Gelareh designs' sustainable vision takes center stage at COP28 fashion summit. Business Insider. Retrieved April 29, 2024, from https://markets.businessinsider.com/news/stocks/gelareh-designs-sustainable-vision-takes-center-stage-at-cop28-fashion-summit-1032916166
  47. Llanura, M. (2023b, December 20). Gelareh designs' opens COP28 sustainable fashion summit, marking a new chapter in eco-conscious fashion. Yahoo Finance. Retrieved April 29, 2024, from https://finance.yahoo.com/news/gelareh-designs-opens-cop28-sustainable-140000051.html
  48. Lundblad, L., & Davies, I. A. (2016). The values and motivations behind sustainable fashion consumption. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 15(2), 149-162. doi:10.1002/cb.1559
  49. Nguyen, A. (2021, July 11). Time to go cold turkey - New report explores fashion's harmful addiction to fossil-fuel based fabrics and greenwashing. Forbes. Retrieved March 26, 2024, from https://www.forbes.com/sites/amynguyen/2021/07/11/time-to-go-cold-turkey--new-report-explores-fashions-harmful-addiction-to-fossil-fuel-based-fabrics-and-greenwashing/?sh=1a92ca03146e
  50. Niinimaki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 1(4), 189-200. doi:10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
  51. Noble, H., & Heale, R. (2019). Triangulation in re- search, with examples. Evidence-Based Nursing, 22(3), 67-68. doi:10.1136/ebnurs-2019-103145
  52. Park, H. W., & Leydesdorff, L. (2004). Understanding the KrKwic: A computer program for the analysis of Korean text. Journal of the Korean Data Analysis Society, 6(5), 1377-1387.
  53. Patagonia. (n.d.a). 1% for the planet. Retrieved July 1, 2024, from https://www.patagonia.com/onepercent-for-the-planet.html
  54. Patagonia. (n.d.b). Worn wear: Gear for a good time and a long time. Retrieved March 26, 2024, from https://wornwear.patagonia.com/?utm_source=ecomm&utm_medium=internal&utm_campaign=global_nav_top_drawer&_gl=1*7gpsf7*_ga*NjUxMjg4NzcwLjE3MDk3ODk0NjQ.*_ga_1SYPSJZYJ5*MTcxMTQxODAzMC4yLjEuMTcxMTQxODI0NC4wLjAuMA..
  55. Patagonia. (n.d.c). Activism stories. Retrieved March 26, 2024, from https://www.patagonia.co.kr/stories/activism#page=1&thema=activism
  56. Patagonia. (n.d.d). Better than new. Retrieved March 26, 2024, from https://www.patagonia.co.kr/wornwear/wornwearList
  57. Patagonia Korea. (n.d.). 이 재킷을 사지 마세요 (Don't Buy This Jacket) 블랙프라이데이, 뉴욕타임스 [Don't buy this jacket, black friday and the New York Times]. Retrieved March 26, 2024, from https://www.patagonia.co.kr/stories/articleDetail/124
  58. Pattinson, S. (2023, December 20). Five key fashion takeaways from COP28: Samata Pattinson takes us inside the global climate summit. Bazaar. Retrieved April 25, 2024, from https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a46186106/fashion-takeaways-from-cop28
  59. Peter, C. (2022). Media coverage as mirror or molder? An inference-based framework. Media and Communication, 10(3), 183-195. doi:10.17645/mac.v10i3.5453
  60. Pownall, A. (2019, February 18). Vivienne Westwood protests climate change as environmental demonstrations hit London Fashion Week. Dezeen. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.dezeen.com/2019/02/18/homo-loquax-vivienne-westwood-climate-change-london-fashion-week
  61. Profumo, G., Testa, G., Viassone, M., & Ben Youssef, K. (2024). Metaverse and the fashion industry: A systematic literature review. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 15(1), 131-154. doi:10.1080/20932685.2023.2270587
  62. Rami Kadi. (2023a). Rami Kadi masion de couture look 13. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.rami-kadi.com/filmnoir/look.php?id=look13
  63. Rami Kadi. (2023b). Rami Kadi masion de couture look 14. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.rami-kadi.com/filmnoir/look.php?id=look14
  64. Rami Kadi. (2023c). Maison Rami Kadi exhibits a sustainable ocean-themed couture show at COP28 UAE. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.rami-kadi.com/spotlight/news-article.php?id=10
  65. Reese, S. (2023, March 22). New fashion scorecard shows two-thirds of industry chooses fossil fuel dependence, perpetuating the global climate crisis. Stand.Earth. Retrieved July 25, 2024, from https://stand.earth/press-releases/new-fashion-scorecard-shows-two-thirds-of-industry-chooses-fossil-fuel-dependence-perpetuating-the-global-climatecrisis
  66. Richford, R. (2023, December 6). Sophia Kianni launches 'We wear oil' campaign; TomTex raises $2.25$2.25 million: Sustainability shorts. WWD. Retrieved March 26, 2024, from https://wwd.com/sustainability/business/sophia-kianni-we-wear-oilcop28-1236014504
  67. Serpentine. (2021). Vivienne Westwood: Switch. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/whats-on/vivienne-westwood-switch/
  68. Son, M. Y. (2017). Study on consumer cognition and clothing behavior of climate change. Journal of Fashion Business, 21(4), 61-72. doi:10.12940/jfb.2017.21.4.61
  69. Stanley, V. (2023, August 9). Toward an end to microfiber pollution. Patagonia. Retrieved March 26, 2024, from https://www.patagonia.com/stories/toward-an-end-to-microfiber-pollution/story-141340.html
  70. Stella McCartney. (n.d.). Sustainable sparkle by Radiant Matter, the innovators of BioSequin. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.stellamccartney.com/kr/ko/radiant-matter-plastic-free-biodegradable-sequins.html
  71. Tencel. (n.d.). Lenzing and NFW partner to provide sustainable leather alternatives for fashion. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.tencel.com/b2b/news-and-events/lenzing-and-nfw-partner-to-provide-sustainable-leather-alternatives-for-fashion
  72. UNEP. (2019, March 13). Fashion's tiny hidden secret. UN Environment Programme. Retrieved July 25, 2024, from https://www.unep.org/newsand-stories/story/fashions-tiny-hidden-secret
  73. UNFCCC. (2023). Summary of global climate action at COP28. Retrieved July 25, 2024, from https://unfccc.int/documents/636485
  74. UNFCCC. (n.d.a). The Paris Agreement. United Nations Climate Change. Retrieved July 25, 2024, from https://unfccc.int/process-and-meetings/theparis-agreement
  75. UNFCCC. (n.d.b). Fashion industry charter for climate action. United Nations Climate Change. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://unfccc.int/climateaction/sectoral-engagement-for-climate-action/fashion-charter
  76. Vaz, S. (2023, December 7). Elle exclusive: In conversation with Shantnu & Nikhil on their collection 'Indra' presented in Dubai. Elle. Retrieved July 24, 2024, from https://elle.in/elleexclusive-shantnu-nikhil-indra-cop28
  77. Visser, W. (2014). CSR 2.0: Transforming corporate sustainability and responsibility. New York, NY: Springer.
  78. Wang, L. (2022). Factors influencing public opinion in mass media news coverage. BCP Business & Management, 34, 1109-1114.
  79. Wang, W., & Duffy, A. H. B. (2009). A triangulation approach for design research. International Conference on Engineering Design, 2, 275-286.
  80. World Wide Fund. (n.d.). For people and nature. Retrieved July 1, 2024, from https://wwf.panda.org
  81. World Wide Fund. (2023). WWF's climate strategy. Retrieved July 1, 2024, from https://www.worldwildlife.org/magazine/issues/fall-2023/articles/wwf-s-climate-strategy
  82. WWF Korea. (2020a, December 10). WWF, 지속가능한 패션 프로젝트 Re:Textile로 자원 순환 방법 제시 [WWF presents resource recycling method with sustainable fashion project Re:Textile]. WWF-Korea. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.wwfkorea.or.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=news&wr_id=144&page=4&ht
  83. WWF Korea. (2020b). [지속가능한 패션] Re:Textile 캠페인 영상 'Listen to Clothes' 리사이클 PET 원단 편 (feat.박서준) [[Sustainable fashion] Re:Textile campaign video 'listen to clothes' recycled PET fabric edition (feat. Park SeoJoon)] [YouTube Channel]. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEWdTuOOZaI
  84. Yoo, J. (2017, August 19). 영국패션업계, 런던시와 기후 변화 공동전선 '패션스위치' 캠페인 가동 [British fashion industry and the city of London launch joint front on climate change with 'Fashion Switch' campaign]. Fashion N. Retrieved April 17, 2024, from https://www.fashionn.com/board/read_new.php?table=1025&number=21952