• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.604-615
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• 2015

The objectives of this study were to investigate whether heel height changes in the U.S. market occur in a cyclical pattern and heel heights show greater within-year variability over time. Heel height data from U.S. Vogue's spring and fall editions were analyzed over the time period 1950~2014. A total of 1581 pieces of data were measured in millimeter units using Adobe Illustrator and standardized by dividing the height of the heel by the shoe length through the curved sole line. To analyze the cycle pattern of heel heights, the yearly averages were standardized by using three-year moving average technique to average out the irregular components of time series data and give a better indication of the long-term fluctuation of heel height. To identify the degree of within-year variability of heel height, the standard deviation of the average measurements for a year was calculated, and then decade averages were drawn from the yearly averaged standard deviation. One-way ANOVA was conducted to compare the within-year variability of data in heel height over the time period studied by decade. The results showed: First, there was a trend toward higher heels from the early 1950s to 2011. Second, four cyclical movements of heel height were observed from 1950 to 2007, and heel heights gradually decreased after 2008. Third, the within-year variability significantly increased over time, especially after the 1980s.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.705-725
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• 2015

A Beoseonbongip is a pouch that holds patterns for making Beoseons. This study aimed to identify the aesthetic and symbolic contents of the embroidery patterns by analyzing the kind, combination types, expression and arrangement types of patterns. In total, 140 Beoseonbongip artifacts, which were mostly made in the Joseon Dynasty, were quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. The results indicated that about 83% of the total had flower patterns. Various kinds of embroidery patterns used for Beoseonbongips were newly identified. About 73% of the total had different kinds of patterns. Pattern combination types were identified by the kinds of patterns, the number of paired patterns, and the traditional painting styles used. The patterns of Beoseonbongips were expressed schematically more than realistically or abstractly. Beoseonbongips with different patterns on the four triangle tips of the front face and Beoseonbongips with the same/similar patterns on two opposite tips of the front face were observed more than the other types. On the back face, the embroidery patterns were symmetrically arranged, showing various division structures. It was inferred that wishes (e.g., marital harmony, fertility, good health and longevity, happiness, and wealth and fame) were expressed through the symbolic patterns embroidered on the Beoseonbongips. In terms of Korean traditional beauty, the union with nature, the harmony of yin and yang, symmetric balance, and neatness were also emphasized as a esthetic characteristics of Beoseonbongips.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.206-223
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• 2017

This study examines the role of visual merchandising (VMD) in creating effective interior displays for fashion "select shops"(shops that carry a wide selection of brands) amid the recent changes in consumption trends, with consumer needs becoming increasingly individualized and diversified. Fashion select shop interior displays can be categorized as self-service, showcase, counter, and environmental display spaces. Regarding the VMD elements that contribute to effective interior displays, we reached the following conclusions. First, in self-service displays, in order to heighten sales efficacy, display elements should be presented in such a way as to enable customers to select products with ease by themselves. Second, the mere presence of showcase displays was found to be insufficient; if, however, select shops use showcase displays to arrange products according to the flow of customer traffic, enabling the creation of a gentrified atmosphere for products, this may contribute to a differentiated image of brands, heightening perceived product value. Third, in counter displays, having a harmonious arrangement of display and presentation elements promotes sales by inspiring customer confidence. Fourth, regarding environmental displays, it is important for stores to have attractive interior designs and decorations in order to reproduce settings in which products are actually used, as this can inspire interest in products and promote customers' purchasing intention.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.224-236
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• 2017

Kimono sleeves have continuously appeared in modern fashion as a design motif and this trend has become increasingly prevalent recently. However for research in the area of clothing composition for kimono sleeves in Korea, there has been a lack of development of master patterns based on basic data from the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people and finalized designs based on comparative experiments and analysis of pre-existing research Thus, there is no ideal master kimono sleeve pattern development research based on the examination of the results of the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people. Therefore by recognizing the importance of developing a master kimono sleeve pattern, this research aims to present a practical master kimono sleeve pattern for the standard body type of someone in their 30s. First, the four master patterns were collected and a dressing evaluation was conducted, and by selecting and improving one of these master designs, a final research master pattern was developed after a second dressing evaluation. Through this research, it was possible to design a master kimono sleeve pattern appropriate both externally and functionally for the standard body type of someone in their 30s, which has not been a consideration in previous research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.237-251
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• 2017

In this study, causes and consequences of bullying were explored, focusing on victim personality and appearance factors. The research model included the relationships among bullying, important causes of bullying (aggression, cleanliness, and obesity of victims) and consequences of bullying (self-esteem and depression) and was tested through survey data from 594 (194 male and 404 female) middle school students. Data were analyzed using descriptive statistics, confirmatory factor analysis, and path analysis with SPSS and AMOS. In the results of the model tests, victims who are more aggressive, less clean, and more overweight are more likely to be bullied. In addition, adolescents bullied by others tend to have lower self-esteem and more depression. Furthermore, the model comparison was assessed by gender and a difference between the two gender models was found. In the check of critical ratio for difference, it was concluded that the cleanliness of the victim is a more important cause of bullying for male adolescents than for female adolescents. It is meaningful to confirm the effects of the victim's appearance factors on bullying in the literature focusing on personality issues of victims. Educators and counselors may refer to the findings in developing counseling guidelines and manuals to prevent bullying in school.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.45-55
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes in perception and attitude of fashion major college students before and after receiving their design copyright education. A questionnaire survey was distributed to 200 fashion major college students in Seoul. The results of this study were as follows: First, 46.0% of fashion major students had an experience of purchasing counterfeit fashion goods. Out of those, 81.5% students acknowledged that the product was counterfeit and still purchased it. Categories of counterfeit goods purchased were bags, clothes, and accessories, in order of popularity. The students reported purchasing counterfeit goods twice and three times, in order of popularity. The prices of the counterfeit products were 100,000 to under 200,000 won, and under 100,000 won, in order of popularity. Second, the cognitive domain, the practical domain, and the value domain all showed significant differences between before and after the copyright education. Among these, the differences in the practical domain were the most distinctive. Third, prior to receiving their copyright education, most of the students had no perception about the design copyright system and so most of the students gained helpful information from the education. For future design copyright education, the students want to learn about how to protect their own designs, how to apply copyright in a fashion company, how to avoid invading other people's designs, and categories of design copyright.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2018

In this study, the effects of anticipated regret and perceived uncertainty on price sensitivity or purchase hesitation in overseas purchasing are analyzed along with the effects of price sensitivity on purchase hesitation. The survey was conducted among internet fashion consumers with experience in overseas purchasing and 480 responses were used in the data analysis. The results showed the psychosocial anticipated regret positively influenced the price importance, and the service, product and psychosocial anticipated regret positively influenced the price search. The preference and psychology uncertainty positively influenced the price importance, and the information and psychology uncertainty positively influenced the price search. The price importance positively influenced payment stage hesitation and shopping cart abandonment, and the price search positively influenced purchase hesitation in overseas purchasing. The functional, service and psychosocial anticipated regret positively influenced payment stage hesitation, and the service and psychosocial anticipated regret positively influenced shopping cart abandonment and overall purchase hesitation. In addition, the perceived uncertainty positively influenced the payment stage hesitation, and the information and psychology uncertainty positively influenced the shopping cart abandonment and overall purchase hesitation. The results of this study will be helpful for developing the marketing strategy for customer relationship management for overseas internet shopping web-sites.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.95-108
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• 2018

This study analyzed the body shape of the body of 17~19 years old female students using the SPSS 20.0 statistical program according to the 7th Korea Human Body Survey. Factor analysis was based on six factors including body size, body height, shoulder length, and width, upper body length, hip length, and shoulder inclination related factors. Through this cluster analysis, the body shape of late adolescent female student was classified into four types. Body type 1 was the highest body height factor, and the upper body length and the hip length factor were lower. It was analyzed as 'Long leg in the body'. Body type 2 is the 'narrow shoulder skinny type' with high hip and shoulder slope factors and low body size, body height, shoulder length, and width factor. Body type 3 showed body size, shoulder length, height and hip length factor, and body height factor was rather low 'low hip obese body shape'. Body type 4 was analyzed as 'lower shoulder long upper body type' with higher upper body length factor and lower body size and shoulder slope factor. It is thought that when the pattern is made, it is possible to produce excellent patterns by fitting the dimensions of the body, as well as the dimensions of the shoulder width, the slope, and the hip length.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.19-29
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to examine the sociocultural meanings of flapper look in American society during the 1920s. Using the ProQuest database, I searched articles from The New York Times published between 1920 and 1929 for opinions and discussions on the flapper look. Keywords included "clothing," "dress," "fashion," and "flapper," and advertisements and articles on menswear, leisurewear, and bathing suits were excluded. In the resulting articles, I extracted the following sociocultural meanings: autonomy, activeness, practicality, attractiveness, and extravagance. Meanings were analyzed from the opinions and discussions focusing on skirt length, dresses that directly and indirectly exposed the body, heavy make-up, non-constricting underwear, the H-line dress, bobbed hair, hygiene, comfort, and consumption. In sum, the 1920s flapper look represented progressive characteristics such as autonomous and active womanhood and practicality, which matched the technological development of the time. However, the flapper look was commercialized and exploited to make women look attractive and extravagant. Even though American women had access to higher education, more economic power, and suffrage in the 1920s, they were limited in their ability to overcome social conventions and the power of consumerism. Understanding the double-sidedness of flapper look within the social context of the time would enhance the comprehension of the relationship between women's lifestyles and changing fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.315-323
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• 2016

The present study is intended to study sole types necessary for shoe designs for elementary school students that are in age groups in growth periods, and 3D midsole design utilizing 3D printing technology. This study analyzed data from the 3D measurement of the feet of 1,227 elementary school students aged 7-13 years residing in the capital region conducted as part of the 6th Anthropometry of Size Korea. In addition, 3D midsoles by sole type were designed utilizing a Rhino CAD, and midsole prototypes were output utilizing a Zortrax-M200 3D Printer. Through a cluster analysis of sole shapes by type, sole shapes were classified into three types. Type 1 has small values of foot lengths and foot breadths, with large toe 1 angles and high arch heights. Type 2 has intermediate values of foot lengths and foot breadths, with small toe 1 angles and high arch heights. Type 3 has large values of foot lengths and foot breadths with small toe 1 angles and low arch heights. On reviewing the results of design of 3D midsoles by sole type, it can be seen that the midsoles were designed according to characteristics by sole type. The results of the sole type analysis in the present study are expected to be meaningful as basic data for the development of shoe insoles for elementary school students.