• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.842-860
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• 2022

There has been growing attention on the well-being of people with disabilities. The purpose of this study was twofold: (1) to investigate the associations between individuals' socio-demographic and psychological characteristics and clothing expenditure, and (2) to examine the moderated mediation effect of self-efficacy and acceptance of disability on the association between dependency on others and happiness among people with visual impairment. This study was based on secondary analysis of data from the second wave of the 6th Panel Survey of Employment for the Disabled collected by the Employment Development Institute. The results of this study showed that average monthly expenditure on clothing was positively associated with self-efficacy, happiness, and acceptance of disability, while being negatively associated with dependency on others. The results also confirmed that self-efficacy mediated the association between dependency on others and happiness. A conditional direct effect of dependency on others on happiness was found, in which negative associations were significant among people with visual impairment who had low and mean levels of acceptance of disability (but not high levels). In addition, there was a significant conditional indirect effect, in which the indirect and negative effect of dependency on others on happiness via self-efficacy was significant for those with low and average levels of acceptance of disability. These findings support the importance of enhancing the independence and acceptance of disability among people with visual impairment, which ultimately contributes to their happiness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.779-798
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to propose the direction of veganism-based fashion design in environmental and animal protection through the theoretical consideration of vegan fashion and the analysis of the practical design characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion. The research was conducted through literature research and case studies. After investigating the concept and characteristics of vegan fashion, focusing on previous studies and various fashion-related Internet data, Stella McCartney's fashion was examined with particular attention on vegan characteristics. The results of the study are as follows: First, imitative nature pursues animal and environmental protection, but the motif or appearance is a characteristic of pursuing a multi-purpose design that imitates animals and nature. Second, expression of value is based on slow fashion, simplicity, and sustainable minimal design. It is expressed indirectly by pursuing permanence, simplicity, and long-wearable design, or directly expressing vegan values through phrases expressed in performances or costumes in the collection. Third, alternative eco-friendliness is characterized by using cruelties-free materials such as faux fur, recycling materials, new bio-materials, and regenerated materials. These vegan characteristics are comprehensively and organically expressed in the works of the collection, and through this, sustainable and eco-friendly vegan fashion is pursued. It is anticipated that by deriving the vegan fashion characteristics of Stella McCartney, who represents vegan fashion, it will be possible to provide the basis for practical direction and design methods for fashion brands aiming for vegan fashion styles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.799-813
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• 2022

The environment has increasingly attracted attention and fashion brands need to use new growth models by developing eco-friendly products, along with the drastic climate change. This study drew design guidelines from the factors of clothing disposal and reuse to propose ways to extend the longevity of clothing. It sets the design goals for the longevity extension of clothing as flexibility, originality, durability, and adjustability and drew a specific design guideline. The design methods used to achieve such goals are as follows. First, the design that is flexible in terms of physical changes needs to increase its activity and to be changeable, by applying pleats, rubber bands and elastic materials to the parts with many physical changes and movements. Second, it is necessary to reinforce the brand identity, create design that is flexible in terms of fashion and design very rare and attractive products, for the goal of original design beyond fashion. Third, it is necessary to increase the quality of clothing and improve the durability which can be decreased by washing and wearing. Fourth, it is necessary to create the design that can produce various styles, preserve the state of clothing and maintain its hygienic conditions by using removable detailed designs, shape-transformation designs and the designs which can be adjusted to climate changes and states, for the goal of adjustable design with better functionality. The findings provide ideas for fashion experts to pay more attention to the extending the longevity of clothing products and to develop eco-friendly designs and strategies.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.53-69
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• 2023

This study aims to analyze research trends regarding outdoor wear. For this purpose, the data-collection period was limited to January 2002-October 2022, and the collection consisted of titles of papers, academic names, abstracts, and publication years from the Research Information Sharing Service (RISS). Frequency analysis was conducted on 227 papers in total to check academic journals and annual trends, and LDA topic-modeling analysis was conducted using 20,964 tokens. Data pre-processing was performed prior to topic-modeling analysis; after that, topic-modeling analysis, core topic derivation, and visualization were performed using a Python algorithm. A total of eight topics were obtained from the comprehensive analysis: experiential marketing and lifestyle, property and evaluation of outdoor wear, design and patterns of outdoor wear, outdoor-wear purchase behavior, color, designs and materials of outdoor wear, promotional strategies for outdoor wear, purchase intention and satisfaction depending on the brand image of outdoor wear, differences in outdoor wear preferences by consumer group. The results of topic-modeling analysis revealed that the topic, which includes a study on the design and material of outdoor wear and the pattern of jackets related to the overall shape, was the highest at 30.9% of the total topics. The next highest topic was also the design and color of outdoor wear, indicating that design-related research was the main research topic in outdoor wear research. It is hoped that analyzing outdoor wear research will help comprehend the research conducted thus far and reveal future directions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.34-52
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• 2023

In this study, text mining was conducted on the product names of skirts, pants, shirts/blouses, and dresses to analyze the characteristics of keywords appearing in online shopping product names. As a result of frequency analysis, the number of keywords that appeared 0.5% or more for each item was around 30, and the number of keywords that appeared 0.1% or more was around 150. The cumulative distribution rate of 150 terms was around 80%. Accordingly, information on 150 key terms was analyzed, from which item, clothing composition, and material information were the found to be the most important types of information (ranking in the top five of all items). In addition, fit and style information for skirts and pants and length information for skirts and dresses were also considered important information. Keywords representing clothing composition information were: banding, high waist, and split for skirts and pants; and V-neck, tie, long sleeves, and puff for shirts/blouses and dresses. It was possible to identify the current design characteristics preferred by consumers from this information. However, there were also problems with terminology that hindered the connection between sellers and consumers. The most common problems were the use of various terms with the same meaning and irregular use of Korean and English terms. However, as a result of using co-appearance frequency analysis, it can be interpreted that there is little intention for product exposure, so it is recommended to avoid it.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.70-90
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• 2023

This study aims to use Art brut works-the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated-to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut's concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann's work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum's website, Christian Berst Gallery's website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann's works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann's works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann's work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.91-106
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• 2023

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity-viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum-is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017-fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.107-123
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• 2023

This research studied the electrical characteristics, IR transmission characteristics, stealth functions, and thermal characteristics of infrared thermal-imaging cameras of copper-sputtered samples. Nylon samples were prepared for each density as a base material for copper-sputtering treatment. Copper-sputtered NFi, NM1, NM2, NM3, NM4, and NM5, showed electrical resistance of 0.8, 445.7, 80.7, 29.7, 0.3, and 2.2 Ω, respectively, all of which are very low values; for the mesh sample, the lower the density, the lower the electrical resistance. Measuring the IR transmittance showed that the infrared transmittance of the copper-sputtered samples was significantly reduced compared to the untreated sample. Compared to the untreated samples, the transmittance went from 92.0-64.1%. When copper sputtered surface was directed to the IR irradiator, the IR transmittance went from 73.5 to 43.8%. As the density of the sample increased, the transmittance tended to decreased. After the infrared thermal imaging, the absolute values of △R, △G, and △B of the copper phase increased from 2 to 167, 98 to 192, and 7 to 118, respectively, and the closer the density of the sample (NM5→NFi), the larger the absolute value. This proves that the dense copper phase-up sample has a stealth effect on the infrared thermal imaging camera. It is believed that the copper-sputtered nylon samples produced in this study have applications in multifunctional uniforms, bio-signal detection sensors, stage costumes, etc.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.124-140
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• 2023

This study analyzes traditional women's Hu costumes of the Tang dynasty, and deploys a creative fashion design to converge contemporary and traditional styles. In this costume, women wear a robe with striped or plain patterns in the lower part of the pants, and it appears frequently in red and yellow colors. Depending on the sleeve, it is either a round collar or a turn down collar robe. In the Hu hat, the huntuomao and juanyanxumao were leather and mili and weimao were used to prevent the sand from flowing. This study uses the CLO 3D program with the "moment" theme based on the Hu costume for women to deploy 4 pairs of fashion design and to produce works for 2 pairs. The 3D virtual clothing program demonstrates important effects in design deployment and pattern arrangement through its efficiency and convenience of clothing production. The CLO 3D program was closely combined with the 2D design and the 3D affect, and it heightened the efficiency in saving the processing time and energy of the sample clothes. Through facilitating the 3D digital fashion design, the production may reduce time needed and contribute to an effective economy, and it may compare digital fashion design to actual products as well as illustrate the potential of digital fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.296-309
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• 2023

This study gathered basic information on the development of Jiu-Jitsu uniforms suitable for players in Korea. Detailed data were collected between December 20^th and December 30^th, 2022 on 21 selected brands sold in online shopping malls. For each, information was recorded on the production country, product type, price, colors, material, and sizing system. A total of 612 datasets were analyzed using frequency analysis, cross-tabulation, and Chi-square tests. Jiu-Jitsu uniforms were classified as either standard or limited edition. Limited edition uniforms were more expensive than regular uniforms. International brands had a higher price range than domestic brands. The most commonly used colors for Jiu-Jitsu uniforms were the regulation colors associated with the sport: white, black, and blue. Domestic brands were more likely to use non-regulation colors than international brands. The material used for the top half of the uniform was predominantly pearl weave, while the bottom half was usually ripstop. International brands used a more diverse range of materials than domestic brands. The Jiu-Jitsu uniform sizing system incorporated a range of sizes between A00 and A6. While sizing designations differed according to the established sizing systems of different countries, the sizes remained the same, as did the range of sizes available. Where size guides were provided, height and weight were used to help the customer determine the appropriate size. The dimensions of each size varied between brands. Overall, we found that international brands offer a more diverse range of Jiu-Jitsu uniform designs than domestic brands.