• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.508-526
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• 2020

This study has established a fashion illustration education plan using the contour drawing that fosters observational ability and enables creative drawing. This study developed two illustration curriculum proposals consisting of 15 weeks, combining literature and case studies. The researchers organized a step-by-step teaching plan that utilizes contour drawing according to the three stages of fashion illustration classes: foundation courses, general courses, and intensive courses. When the contour drawing is used at the beginning stage of the foundation courses of fashion illustration, it can be used as a technique to reduce the fear of students about practical skills, induce interest in illustration, and cultivate observation ability about objects. In general process, it is combined with various tools and coloring materials to strengthen expression power, and it is possible to produce detailed expressions and illustrations about human body and clothing. In intensive courses, it is expanded to the production of creative works with new aesthetics through digital techniques and mixed materials. As such, the contour drawing is expanded in various ways according to the learning contents and goals of each step, and is flexibly adjusted according to the learning content. Contour drawing has the effect of acquiring observation and expression ability, and it is analyzed as a technique that enables the production of creative illustration of students.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.562-571
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• 2020

Intermedia refers to the convergence of media. The advance of intermedia has not only facilitated the delivery of brand messages in contemporary fashion shows but also facilitated interactive communication. This study investigated the mediating roles played by various media in fashion and fashion shows, focusing on the phenomenon of intermedia in contemporary fashion shows. To investigate the impact of intermedia on contemporary fashion shows, we conducted a social network analysis-a promising approach for research into fashion trends. Analyzing 159 fashion-related articles published in the 2000s, we extracted intermedia-related words (n=253). The relation-ships between keywords made an analysis of between centrality, and cluster variables applied Clauset-Newman-Moore by using KrKwic and NodeXL programs. The results of the between centrality analysis indicated that the most important factors in contemporary fashion shows are "models" and "stages." We found that the impacts of intermedia on contemporary fashion shows can be divided into four categories: "model performance," "symbolic stage management," "new media utilization," and "convergence in arts." Our analysis thus identified considerable synergy between the characteristics of intermedia and contemporary fashion shows. These results have found intermedia-related commonalities in intermedia and fashion show, and this might increase customer interest in fashion, a positive outcome for the fashion industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.492-507
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• 2020

This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.687-696
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• 2016

As consumers' interest in social responsibility (SR) has greatly increased in the last two decades, a growing body of academic research has examined the influence of consumers' environmental consciousness on their attitudes and purchase intentions toward environment-friendly apparel products. Use of environment-friendly shopping bags (EFSB; recycled and reusable bags) is an example of how apparel retailers engage in SR. However, little research has examined consumers' perceptions and their responses to the use of EFSB. To fill this research gap, this study examined the impact of young consumers' perceptions of EFSB and environmental consciousness on their attitudes and purchase intentions toward apparel retailers using EFSB. An online survey was conducted for data collection. A convenience sample of 212 college students was obtained from a large mid-Southern university in the U.S. A simple linear regression analysis was conducted to test all hypotheses. Results showed that young consumers' perceptions of EFSB positively influenced their environmental consciousness and their attitudes toward apparel retailers that use EFSB, which led to purchase intentions toward the retailers. Findings confirmed that young consumers placed a great degree of importance on EFSB and, therefore, would purchase apparel from retailers that use recycled or reusable shopping bags. These findings imply that providing EFSB is important in enhancing positive attitudes and purchase intentions toward apparel retailers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.544-560
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• 2016

This study aimed to investigate the influence of consumers' innovativeness, perceived benefits of home shopping mobile apps, and satisfaction with telephone orders on switching to and satisfaction with such apps (for those who have used these apps). This study also investigated the influence of the aforementioned factors on the intention to switch to home shopping mobile apps (for those who have not used these apps). Data were collected from 546 customers ranging in age from 18 to 59 with experience purchasing fashion goods from home shopping networks, and 502 of the questionnaires were used in the statistical analyses. Structure equation models were employed using AMOS 23.0. The results were as follows: for consumers experienced with home shopping mobile apps, their innovativeness and perceived benefits of such apps (convenience, usefulness) influenced their switching behavior. Additionally, consumers' innovativeness and perceived benefits of these apps (usefulness, accessibility, interactiveness) affected their satisfaction with the apps. For those not experienced with home shopping mobile apps, consumers' innovativeness and perceived benefits of the apps (interactiveness, security, enjoyment) influenced their intention to switch to these apps. These results indicate that different strategies should be developed for home shopping consumers experienced and inexperienced with these apps for the improvement of app satisfaction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.577-587
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• 2016

Natural dye extracted from Salicornia bigelovii was applied to silk fabrics by dip dyeing process. The dyeing properties and the functionalities of the silk fabrics were determined. Factors affecting the dyeing properties such as dyestuff concentration, temperature, time and pH were studied. The colorimetric parameters $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V/C values were measured to select the optimal mordanting conditions. The color-fastnesses of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were estimated for practical use; in addition, the antibacterial property, ultraviolet protection properties were evaluated. The dyeabilities of silk increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. And optimum dyeing results were achieved when dyeing with 300% (o.w.f.) of dye concentration at $90^{\circ}C$ for 100 minutes and at pH 3. The dyed silk fabrics without mordants produced yellow (Y) color and showed yellow (Y) or green yellow (GY) colors depending on the mordants type. The light fastness of dyed and Al mordanted silk fabrics were found to be excellent, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were good. The dyed silk fabrics showed no antibacterial property, but Al and Cu mordanted silk fabrics showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed silk fabric was improved. And the ultraviolet protection properties of mordanted samples showed very good ultraviolet protection properties.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.617-625
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• 2016

In women's clothing the shoulders are distorted and exaggerated. Consequently, the wearers' bodies are transformed and interpreted according to modern standards. We therefore refer to this aspect of women's clothing as the power shoulder. This study aims to analyze the differences in sensibility images on variations in the shoulder shape of power shoulder jackets. Nine samples were examined that involved combinations of three variations of the shoulder height and three variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. Four factors were selected: attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. Among these factors, attractiveness is the most important. The study results indicated that changes in shoulder height acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on all four factors. In contrast, changes in shoulder width acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on attractiveness, personality, and activity but not on self-respect. It also had an influence on the interaction effect of attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. We anticipate that this study will help individual customers select clothing that is suitable for their preference and body shape because it is now possible for them to estimate images of power shoulder jackets.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.588-599
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• 2016

The primary aim of this study was to analyze the fashion trend of wearing T-shirts with slogans at home and abroad and to consider the social influence of these shirts on fashion. The research method was based on the documentary method and the existing literature, and the study range was limited to the period from the middle of the 20th century to the present. Slogan T-shirts played important roles because they make the wearers highly visible wherever they go. T-shirts with slogans not only intentionally expressed the wearers' views on multiple social issues but they also made those issues more visible, thereby encouraging society to deal with them. The T-shirts also helped to form a social consensus regarding the issues. For this reason we referred to slogan T-shirts as 'the social fashion' in this research. Regarding the results, the research found that T-shirts with slogans were a social fashion that conveyed real political slogans and thus influenced people's political beliefs. Second, they politicized the issues in public interests with the public perspective. Third, the purpose of slogan T-shirts was to help people express their personality publicly and thereby bond with other people who held similar sympathies. Furthermore, the T-shirts conveyed multiple meanings in each message.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.119-131
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• 2016

With the increasing popularity of nonprofit thrift shopping, new marketing strategies are needed to respond to accelerated competition in the secondhand market. To help guide the development of marketing strategies for nonprofit thrift stores, this study aims to identify factors impacting consumers' buying behavior for secondhand fashion items sold in nonprofit thrift stores. Specifically, this study investigated 1) the effects of secondhand fashion selection criteria (i.e., design, brand name, lower price) and personal factors (i.e., gender, household income, beliefs about environment) on the secondhand fashion consumption experience in nonprofit thrift stores and 2) the moderating effects of point of purchase (POP) messages (i.e., "50% Off Sale," "New Arrivals," "Helping Others") on the relationships between purchase intention and impulsive buying in nonprofit thrift stores. An online survey was used to collect the data, and a total of 197 usable responses were received. The results showed that 1) gender, household income, beliefs about environment, and brand name affected the secondhand fashion consumption experience and 2) the POP message "Helping Others" negatively moderated the relationship between purchase intention and impulsive buying in nonprofit thrift stores. These results can help nonprofit thrift stores' managers to develop effective marketing strategies to increase their profits, which can be used to accomplish their mission of addressing social issues.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.150-165
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• 2016

With signs of the redevelopment of the domestic sewing industry, national support agencies were established. This study aims to assess the present conditions of the domestic sewing industry and investigate the effectiveness of national sewing industry support policies. According to the results of a survey of 30 sewing companies managers, the biggest factor causing product defects was work being rushed because of tight delivery dates, and the reduction in sales was caused by a lack of orders. Moreover, sewing technicians are aging, and the biggest reason for their decrease in number is that people do not pursue the job because of the common understanding that it is difficult. Managers perceived that the government's sewing technician training program was not a practical help. They were well aware of the support program to improve the work environment and the sewing equipment support program and showed high satisfaction with these programs, but they complained that the period for equipment rental was fixed. A majority of them thought that the Korean sewing industry environment had still not improved, and were skeptical about its future outlook. They identified its most urgent needs as the expansion of orders and the securing of manpower. The support programs that they wanted urgently included support for employees' four major public insurances and the enactment of the increase of toll processing fees.