• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.139-164
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• 2002

The objective of this Paper was to identify the internal and external symbols of Punks, and to assess the significance of punk style giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. For this objective. comprehension on widely discussed idea of punk, furthermore grasping the internal and external form by inquiring historically punk look, and importantly looking into new ideas pursued by punk fashion by studying traits of punk image in 1980's and after are done. Punk in the latter half of the 70's was anti-fashion expressed for the young of working class to rebel against the established generation. At first some of the fashion was popularized by the young who imitated pop stars under the specific economy of Britain, and others with movement of hippie Punk is aesthetics extremism which neglects traditionalism in the past but pursues newness. It denied traditional way of expression and principles of aesthetics but created newness. Punk look was symbolized as poor look. grotesque, androgynous, black, graffiti, and bricolage. And the internal meanings of these symbols are ego-screaming, expression of nihilism, resistance, irony and ridicule, search for hedonism. The punk phenomenon continues today. Some teens still cling to the complete look. whether they have punks' idea and value or not. Diverse elements of punk style play a major role in the current trend of fashion and a source of the fresh inspiration for the high fashion designers. Punk style is truly the story of a fad that turned to fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.181-188
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• 2005

This study attempted to investigate the plastic characteristics of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion in the cyber punk movies in order to inquire into how the influence of the cyber punk taking the lead in the spiritual culture and way of life of the humankind in the 21th century would be expressed in fashion. For this purpose, it sought to analyze the beauty of new fashion creating the cyber environment and identify its contemporary meaning. An attempt was made to investigate the image of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies. As a result, the following findings were obtained: First, the image of cyber punk fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies was simplicity, which was to express the modest silhouette and details exclusive of decoration. In addition to clean and smooth gloss, it contained the modest image of resistance', not 'revolt' by borrowing the partial motive and image from existing punk fashion. The change of cyber punk fashion into the characteristic of concise, smooth external appearance brought about the restraint of its image and symbolism as well as its plastic characteristic. Second, it was characterized by the Eroticism nature of emphasizing the body line while expressing the future and modest image or exposing the body. Cyber punk fashion expressed the avant-garde image by using materials that gave a mysterious and future feelings, as well as unsymmetrical silhouette, the slit of body-conscious line, coarse cutting, the method of do-constructing and reconstructing the silhouette, the method of applying diverse underwears such as corset, brassiere and the like. Third, cyber punk fashion was marked by the nature of mined sex. It had the masculine image by using the black color containing the image of masculinity and resistance in female clothing and expressing the suit, coat and military looks giving an masculine impression. And it expressed the image of mixed sexes with the masculine image in male clothing by borrowing feminine images such as body-conscious line, widely cut neckline, floral decoration, leggings and the like. Fourth, cyber punk fashion was marked by naturalness. It was expressed as clothing made from silhouette, knit, cotton and the like in the atmosphere expressing love, comfortableness and truth. This contained the image of naturalness, a return to the primitive, that human being wanted to return to their original figure in the future element. The cyber punk movie may contain a dismal, gloomy future image on the whole, which can be overcome, and shows the possibility that it may grow into the alternative culture, not the revolting culture. The movie of 'The Fifth Element' demonstrates the meaning and role that shows the bright future image. It is thought that designers should make efforts for cyber punk fashion to perform its role in changing the gloomy future image into the bright image of society

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권11호
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• pp.1444-1453
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• 2005

In this study, I tried to analyze the characteristics of modem punk fashion by applying characteristics of modem cultural phenomena. The method of this study is the qualitative study: I analyzed collections from 1996 to 2003 by suggesting an analysis frame based on bibliological studies and applying internet photo materials to the analysis frame. As a result, modem punk fashion has the following characteristics. First, it tends to promote things that are entirely different from the previous expression methods by using the overlapping of texts combined with things that are heterogeneous. Second, the scope of its decoration has been expanded with the aid of the expression method, in which the objects that had not been used as decoration previously have been transformed into media. Third, the appearance of non-mainstream group who has suggested the anti-mainstream thought that violates the uniformed beauty of punk group has expanded the scope of classes that accept the punk fashion. Lastly, clothes, wigs and accessories have been commercialized through the permanent modification that used to signify resistance and disgust such as the expression methods of image replicas using tattoo, piercing, and transformation of hair. In doing so, punk fashion has been generalized and popularized. Such modem punk fashion reflects the change of society such as social transformation that is occupied by images thanks to its complexity and pluralism and the development of public media.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.14-31
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• 2007

The Vivienne Westwood's design is divided into four eras : The 'Punk and Ethnic Style' era, The 'Feminine Style' era, The 'Eclectic Style' era and The 'Retrospective Style' era. The aesthetic characteristics of Vivienne Westwood's design vastly divided into Parody and the Punk Couture. Westwood's parody is exprssed by british materials, that is traditional British tailoring, dressmaking techniques, traditional british fabrics and her debt to the past. Also Westwood has presented the special characteristics of Punk Couture showing Punk-Style clothes by applying Couture sense to her own Pret a Porter Collection. She pursued newness breaking the conventional aesthetic consciousness through her cutting, mix and match of fabrics and cordy of punk details. Westwood pursued new aesthetics by deconstruction and destruction regulated existing ideas that had been systematized, conventionalized and standardized by history and culture. She had shown pluralistic fashion through her design that exactly reflected characteristics of the modern society demanding variety.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.781-795
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is not only to widen and deepen the understanding of external environments of hairstyle but also to provide the basis of understanding and perspicacity as to the hairstyle which will be created under the influence of new music by contemplating distinctions between Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s and by comparing and analyzing distinctions between Glam Hairstyle and Punk Hair Style of 1970s. As the method of this study, first of all four common factors, which are resistance, androgynous, beauty of ugliness and pursuit of pleasure through persona, were able to be ed from both Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s, and then by using that factors as analyzing instrumental frame, the above two hairstyles were compared and analyzed through photographic materials in this study. According to the results of comparing and analyzing two hairstyles above, in Glam Hairstyle, the androgynous character is the most remarkable distinction. They tried to overturn the gender role by challenging the traditional color and form of hairstyle. In funk Hairstyle, the resistance is the most prominent distinction. They expressed their group identity resisting a pre-existing generation by putting on threatened and aggressive hairstyle.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.69-69
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• 2003

In the late 1970s, Punk style that appeared according to the social reaction among labor class youngsters has reappeared till now, and also the emotion and mode are working on fashion greatly. In addition to that, as it pervades to young generation more freely, it's becoming a kind of origin in creative fashion. Especially, Punk style leather jacket has spread to high fashion and settled down as an essential item through popularization of leather jacket.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.11-26
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• 2003

It is an important means of expressing oneself and is affected by the social and cultural environment, too. People are creating another new lower culture, it's Sub Culture, that is, their own unique new fashion through the coordination status of a lower culture and its components to reveal the visual symbol of such garments and body decorations most clearly. The Punk formed as an reaction to 1960's hippie appeared as the most unpleasant image to the established generations with their ultimate resisting action and new aesthetic-consciousness. Their coordination by the use of the disorder and stimulative tool which gives abhorrence appears again as Cyber Punk being influenced by optical art and multimedia in '90s. It can be seen that the form of lower culture mentioned above became a storehouse of new fashion creation through the most nuclear role of lower culture and the unique characteristic coordination by age and that each lower culture fashion can become a style icon of new fashion through free coordination.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.123-130
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to understand Skull Images in fashion trends and Skull Image Top Design for Female Teenagers. The methods of this study are an academic literature review as well as practical study through actual case studies about. The subjects of the study were 53 Female Teenagers who lived in Chuncheon. Data were collected during March, 2009. Statistical analyses used in the study were frequency. An adolescent period, they are rebellious, sensual and syntonic inclination. These days, Lots of Female Teenagers want unique fashion for herself and select Skull Image clothing. But they want fit and pretty style not big-look. In this study, I designed seven pieces of Top blouse while applying Skull Image, an important image of Hip-hop and Punk fashion, and the concepts of the continuance theory to them. This study will make a contribution to the designing of Top for Female Teenagers through reinterpretation of the Hip-hop and Punk fashion. In addition, there are practicable and unique Top design for Female Teenagers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.76-89
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• 2009

Popular music unites people who have different genders, ages, locals, and values. Through the popular music, youth interchange their emotion and create their fashion. Fashion and music formed the twin pillars on which the first historically significant youth sub-culture was built. Glam rock and Punk rock which won popularity in the 1970s influenced the fashion of the times. The purpose of this study is to compare Glam and Punk make-up which appeared as a symbol of the rebel against an older generation. The methodology utilized in this study was the analysis of materials from the survey through the literature, internet sites, and visual references. The results of this study are as follows: In face make-up, Glam used a white base to appear cosmic; on the other hand, Punk used a white base to appear pale and horrid. In eye make-up, Glam used black, pink, and blue eye shadow, and accented the eye by using black eye lines. Punk used black eye shadow, and drew black circles or squares around eyes. In lip make-up, Glam used pink, purple, red, and black lip color and silver and pink lip gloss to glitter. Punk used red and black lip color to appear horrid. In body make-up, Glam used glitter powder to appear with a bright skin. Punk drew tattoos and horror patterns in their body. The common themes of Glam and Punk make-up were rebellion, androgyny, and the beauty of ugliness as well as a self-created persona.