• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.925-940
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the major influence of postmodernism on 20th century fashion. Due to its characteristic traits like pluralism, indeterminacy, and immanence, it can be said that postmodernism in fashion manifests itself in an overlapped and duplicated style. The conceptual side has to do with such various 20th century thoughts as decanonization, deconstruction, populism, and in fashion it is presented as subcultural style, syncretic style, and post-feminist style. The stylistic side of postmodernism in fashion also has to do with fragmentation, hybridity, stress on performance and participation, carnivalization, deconstructive turn, and it is presented as hybrid expression, deconstructive technique, performance, and so on. In the latter part of the 20th century in which postmodernism blossoms in various fields, fashion also participates in the current of the times, together with the rapid stylistic turn, the co-existence of various trends, and the experimental or avant-garde new trials. However, it should be said that all of these tendencies mean not so much blurring of the boundaries between styles as developmental mixture of styles coming from juxtaposition after fully realizing the boundaries of contrast and combination.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.183-196
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to analyze the influnce of Postmodernism on 90's fashion trends, and to present applications of it's inspiration to print design. 90's fashion trends represented in fashion magazines, in fashion trend reports, and in related books were anlyzed. Informations referring to two selected target markets were collected by phone interview. In 90's fashion trends, seven fashion images seemed to be influenced from Postmodernism emerged. Based on these seven fashion images, several print designs were created and developed for one domestic market and for one export market.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.141-153
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• 2001

In the midst of rapid cultural and artistic changes with the turn of the century, postmodernism is exerting great influence on the value and trends of arts. many artists are making utmost efforts in order to overcome ambiguity and confusion caused by these changes. Analysis of the works and philosophy of prominent fashion designers provides insight into the influence of postmodernism to the creation of modern arts including fashion. This paper attempts to explore how pluralism, one o the most important features of postmodernism, has given impacted to the modern fashion design. fashion trend and works of Paco Rabanne were reviewed with particular emphasis on pluralistic expressions in his fashion creation. it was found that Paco Rabanne's diversified and innovative use of materials and design methods were possible due to the influence of pluralism. It is anticipated that this trend will e observed in the various forms of arts wit the further analysis of fashion designers and artists.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.147-158
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• 1999

The Purpose of this study is to comprehend the form of Post-modernism in 1980~90 Fashion by comparing to the representative form of Modernism. For empirical data, photographs and critics about fashion were collected from Vogue fashion magazine to differentiate from other studies which is mostly analysed from collection. The results are as follows: The Modernism in fashion can be epitomized simple and functional form as a rational costume and Post-modern fashion expresses all sorts of emotion as a react of rational theme of modernism with manners of anti-formal pluralism such as pastiche, parody and Kitsch. The fashion in 1980-90s in Vogue expressed as follow :1) The Postmodernism is well exploited around 1990 and costrained by traditional and classical Mode. 2) The other main character of Postmodernism, romantic eroticism is broadly expressed with material and slim curved body conscious line. 3) The Modernism and Postmodernism coexisted in the end of 1990, in more matured format.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.369-392
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• 1998

In order to identify and describe the central core of fashion desire, the concept of“anti-aesthetics”and“open fashion”were analyzed based on the discourses of postmodernism dis-cussed in the field of sociology, culture, art and philosophy. In this paper, first, the new perspectives of fashion related to modernism and postmodernism were proposed, open concept, anti-aesthet-ics which is ephemerality but eternal ideology. Key principles of postmodernism as anti-aess-thetics mean the philosophy of nihilism proposed by Nietzsche indeterminency, the endd of original art(the death of art), the sublimity provided by Lyotard, and the pluralism to release human from the closed way of thinking, value, ideology. Second, the old and classical definition of fashion,“the differentiation of class”proposed by Veblen and Simmel has been changed into the“differentiation of taste”in postmodern condition. Third, the dichotomous system, that is, ration vs emotion, soul vs body, male vs female, culture vs nature, and so on has been deconstructed and disolved in the postmodern fashion phenomenon using the technique of anti-formalism, such as pastich, parody, bricolage an kitsch for the expression of sublimity and freedom of human.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.163-175
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• 2000

This study focuses on the Zen style in contemporary fashion which presents itself as one of the dominant cultural phenomena these days. After investigating the basic concepts and features of the Zen style and examining its birth and development, this study moves on to the ways in which it is characteristically applied for the world of fashion. This study is also performed both by the theoretical research on related books and papers for the explication of main concepts and by the practical research on fashion magazines and works of famous fashion designers for the presentation of more detailed illustration. When we are talking about postmodernism, which is a reaction against or a continuation of modernism, as a cultural dominant shown up in the late twentieth century, the Zen style itself can be regarded as a typical representation of postmodernism in fashion. Although the Zen style can be viewed as sharing the basic principles with minimalism which is a main branch of modernism, it is strongly in line with postmodernism (which is human-centered) in that its fundamental idea is based on emotions and feelings of human beings and the purity of natural world. As above, ZEN is a crossover phenomenon between postmodernism and modernism. In this sense, it is said that within the name of postmodernism the Zen style has satisfied our desire to present our inner world of mind with the help of regional philosophy (in this case Oriental one). The four main aspects of the Zen style in fashion are following : simplicity connected with the Oriental moderation, the use of the Oriental silhouette and detail, the destruction of form, and the nature-friendly attitude. These will be under close examination in this study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.581-588
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• 1997

Since 1950 postmodernism shows strong influences in literature, architektuTe, art, clothing and other social and cultural fields. It's main conceptswere individual, pluralistic, unconven- tional and deconstruction of social values. The purpose of thisstudy was to review the influence of postmodernism to German clothing for youth. To achieve this purpose, raga- zinesfor youth ("BKAVO") from 1959 to 1994 surveyed including a number of interviews. The characterizations of postmodernism in fashion are as follows: Sport Clothing has an effect on Oaily Clothing. Exotic phenomenon from south america, africa, asia shows strong in fashion. Subculture(Rocker, Hippie, Punker) is as anti-culture sylnbolically expressed in young fashion which is diffrent from mother-fashion. This appeard in Germany in the 50s, 60san6 70s. However, sub-culture-look in the 80s and 90s is presented only in outer style. It does'nt show any symbolic meanings. "Bricolage" ("mix and match") -concept was appeard in 60s and 70s only in fashion of subculture group. This concept generalized in standard fashion in 80s and 90s.andard fashion in 80s and 90s.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.14-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama's fashion style from a perspective of modernism and postmodernism. The method utilized in this study was first, to examine the properties of modernism and postmodernism. Next, we explored the types of role performance of the first ladies and the application of their fashion as an aid to their roles through the precedents of the research concerning modernism and postmodernism. The results of the study are as follows. First, there was a trend of formalism and anti-formalism. Jacqueline Kennedy made her public appearances wearing a formal dress in order to express the first lady's authoritarian figure of restrained elegance. The fashion of the first lady aspired to formalism. Meanwhile, Michelle Obama followed more of a free style by eschewing the typical formality of the first lady. She created diverse styles utilizing a variety of items, which were not interrupted by form or by using heterogeneous items. Second, there is a trend of elitism and populism. While Jacqueline Kennedy preferred only haute couture designers' costume in order to show the prestige and dignity of the upper class, Michelle Obama patronized unknown designers' clothing or mid-level casual brand goods that the public favors in order to interact with the public through her fashion. Third, while modernism regards totality or unity to be important, postmodernism puts an emphasis on the eclecticism by pursuing complexity and diversity through the deconstruction of an indigenous genre. In case of Jacqueline Kennedy, this tendency featured monotone clothing color, which presented a unified full set dress that excluded decoration. Michelle Obama, in contrast, mixed and matched formal dresses and a casual cardigan or felicitously mixed luxury brand or low to middle priced brand goods.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.179-199
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• 1999

Indeterminancy is one of the thought systems which explains all things with not 'either-or' but 'both-and' the conditions and qualities of human identities and inner state. A view of the world of Dionisos of Nietzsche's and the character of Manneristic trend which has resolved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression has succeeded to romanticism surrealism and postmodernism. 1. Cross-dressing has increased under contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in the past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereotypes and give rise to the cultural insecurities in contemporary conditions. 2. The indeterminancy of status that is wealth versus poverty impacts on variations of contemporary dress. This has been represented by neglecting traditional code which is related to wealth in costume by conversion of the symbols of wealth and poverty as disguise with moderation simplicity and additionally poverty image instead of ostentation. 3. In the cultural aspect that is mother culture/ subculture the author has investigated black street fashion which has newly become visible. The black street fashion is wide spread in black popular music such as jazz Rhythm & Blues Reggae and Rap which is subculture against white. The external values of indeterminancy in fashion are n대-manneristic tendencies as deformation eclectic friction and irrational structure and graffiti method. The inner values by indeterminant expression in fashion are irony and paradox grotesque satire and amusement.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.317-324
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• 2000

Pluralistic and diverse values exist in the realm of post modernism society. In this context, one particular outlook does not have the same meaning across the whole society. The creation and sharing of a new meaning do not necessarily need the consent of every member of the society. There have been a few attempts to delve into the relationship between sociocultural phenomenon and fashion trends in the pluralistic cultures. However, there has been little research on the theoretical framework in order to analyze a pluralistic phenomenon itself. The purpose of this study is to provide the theoretical paradigms to analyze and interpret various pluralistic phenomena in postmodernism fashion. Theories developed by Gilles Deleuze have been utilized to analyze and interpret the duct tape fashion which is in vogue among the young generation in the USA. The analysis based on the paradigm of Gilles indicates that the duct tape fashion shows pluralistic features of as in the other postmodern cultural activities.