• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.702-708
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing-property and antibacterial activity on nylon fabric dyed with cochineal at variable dyeing conditions. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu and Sn were used as mordants and adsorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The maximum UV-visible absorption band of cochineal extract was 495 nm. The dyeability on nylon fabric was good because of having a amine group. The optimum dyeing conditions of nylon fabrics are dyeing concentration 1.5%(o.w.s), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, pH 3 and dyeing time 30 minutes. The pre-mordanting method is preferred for Al and Cr, and the post-mordanting one is preferred for Cu, Sn and Fe to achieve better dyeing. The optimum mordanting conditions of wool fabrics dyed with cochineal are mordanting concentration of 0.5%(o.w.s), mordanting temperature $60^{\circ}C$, and dyeing time 30 minutes. Nylon fabrics dyed with cochineal show a little antibacterial activity, but it was increased by Sn mordanting. MIC test results in antibacterial activities revealed that the antibacterial activity of Cu was the highest among mordants, but Sn mordant was the most effective in antibacterial activities after mordanting treatment of nylon fabric. The fastness properties of dyed nylon fabric showd a little worse or a similar level and there was no significant difference between a mordanted and non-mordanted fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.890-898
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• 2014

This study focuses on the effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting conditions, changes of colorfastness, antibacterial properties and UV protective of silk fabric dyed with Laminaria japonica extracts. A natural colorant was extracted from Laminaria japonica using distilled water as extractants. According to the results, maximum dye uptake (K/S) were obtained at 100% V/V colorant concentration, $80^{\circ}C$, 60 min and pH 2. Silk fabric was dyed with Laminaria japonica extract at $80^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with pre-treatment or post-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. The Laminaria japonica extracts produced yellow hue on silk fabric in pre-mordanting and manifested green yellow hue mordanted with $CuSO_4$ in post-mordanting method. Mordant $CuSO_4$ for silk fabric was found to give good light fastness (rating 4). UV protection property did not increase significantly upon mordanting.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.7-14
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• 2003

Fabrics dyed with artemisia extract have quite natural and elegant tones of color. This study purposed to find the best one for dyeing among artemisia collected in the four seasons in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia. As for the method of research, the researcher dyed wool fabric and silk fabric with artemisia, and measured dyeability according to the number of repeats of dyeing, coloration by post-mordant, color fastness to washing, color fastness to dry cleaning and color fastness to light. The results are as follows. 1. In dyeing with artemisia, dyeability was improved as the number of repeat of dying increased, and it was higher in wool fabric than in silk fabric. 2. Among artemisia collected in the four seasons, autumn artemisia had dyeability much inferior to that of artemisia from the other seasons, and winter artemisia had the best dyeability. 3. According to the result of treating fabric with post-mordant, the dyeability was improved significantly, and coloration was most remarkable when copper and iron mordant were used. 4. The color fastness to washing and color fastness to dry cleaning of fabric mordanted with artemisia were as high as grade 4-5 and grade 5 respectively. The color fastness to light was highest in winter artemisia as grade 4.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.89-95
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• 2020

In this study, the efficacy of Amaranth(Amaranthus spp. L.) as a natural dye resource was investigated for wool fabrics. It is known that a large amount of flavonoid and anthocyanin colorant are contained in leaves and stems, as well as red flowers. The optimum condition of dyeing was 1.3% of dye concentration(o.w.b.) at 100℃ for 60 minutes, resulting the K/S value, 23.43 and R Munsell color on the wool fabrics. Al, Fe, Zinc and Titanium were used as a mordant. The mordant improved the dye uptake, regardless of the mordant type and mordant method. The pre-mordanting method was more effective than the post-mordanting method. Al pre-mordanted fabric showed the highest K/S, 30.02. Light fastness and washing fastness were high in grades 4-5 and 5, and rubbing fastness was good in grades 4 and 4-5 in dry condition, but low in grades 2-3 and 3 in wet condition. The dry cleaning fastness was excellent in all 5 grades. However, the alkaline perspiration fastness ratings were low in grades 2-3 and 3. The results show Amaranthus spp. L. colorant can be used as a functional natural dye for wool fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.124-132
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of silk fabric on gromwell roof colorants were studied for the effect of dyeing conditions, such as methanol ratio, colorants concentration, pH, temperature and time etc. on the dye uptake and effect of mordants and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptake. And various colorfastnesses of dyed fabrics were evaluated far practical use. Gromwell colorants showed high affinity to silk and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type close to Nernst type. Therefore, it is considered that hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals force were involved in the adsorption of cromwell colorants to silk fabric. Post-mordanting method gave higher K/S value than other methods, but it was not significantly different color values from unmordanted one. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed fabrics showed high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased for repeatedly dyed and Fe mordanted dyed fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.323-330
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• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권12호
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• pp.1625-1631
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• 2004

개망초로부터 추출한 색소의 면 섬유에 대한 염색성을 조사하였다. 염색조건과 매염처리가 염착량(K/S값)및 CIELAB 색상에 미치는 영향을 평가하였으며, 또한 염색한 시료의 견뢰도를 측정하여 실용성을 확인하였다. 개망초 색소의 면 섬유에 대한 친화력은 높지 않았으며, Freundlich형의 등온흡착곡선을 보여 염착이 주로 수소결합에 의해 이루어지는 것으로 나타났다. 동시 또는 후매염처리 방법보다는 전매염처리 방법이 염차량 증진에 더 효과적이었으나, 주석매염제를 제외하고 매염제에 의한 염착량 증진효과는 크지 않았다. 매염처리에 관계없이 모든 시료는 Y계열의 색상을 나타내어 큰 변화는 없었다. 모든 시료의 세탁견뢰도는 낮았으며 , 땀 및 마찰견뢰도는 매우 양호하였으며 매염 처리가 견뢰도 증진에 미치는 영향은 크지 않았다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1030-1038
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability of crabyon fiber contained cotton towels after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at 60℃ and 60min. Crabyon, composite fiber of Chitin/Chitosan and cellulose, is manufactured by uniformly blending Chitin/Chitosan and cellulose viscose and extruding the blended viscose into spin-bath. Cotton towels with crabyon fiber dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. Crabyon fiber contained cotton towels dyed using gallnut were pre of post-mordanted using Al, Cu, and Fe. The dyeability(K/S) and color characteristics(L^*, a^*, b^*, C, and h(color angle)) of dyed crabyon fiber contained cotton towels were measured by computer color matching machine and photographs. The crabyon fiber composition of cotton towels was conformed by amide peak(-CONH-) of chitin or chitosan of FT-IR spectroscopy. The results obtained were as follows; The amide peak of crabyon fiber contained cotton towels appeared at about 1652 cm⁻¹. The dyeability of crabyon fiber contained cotton towel was increased gradually with increasing concentration of gallnut dyeing solution and saturated at about 150%(o.w.f). The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were 90~100℃ and 80minutes expectively. The crabyon fiber contained cotton towels were dyed reddish yellow by non, Al, and Cu mordanting, reddish blue by Fe mordanting, respectively. The fastness to washing according to concentration of gallnut in and mordanting method indicated good grade result as more than 3~4 degree in all conditions.