• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제20권4호
• /
• pp.95-104
• /
• 2018

This study classified the figurative features of the raglan sleeves presented in the Spring and Summer Collections and Fall and Winter Collections abroad in 2010 and 2018 and analyzed the production methods and patterns of the classified raglan sleeves. The analysis results are described below. The raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends were classified into Type H, Type A, Type O and Type Y per shape. The production features of raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends included the cutting lines in various shapes, a flounce that made shoulders look wider, and decorations such as gathers, studs, punching, slits, pleats and tucks. The raglan sleeve design was classified into Yoke Raglan, Armhole Princess Raglan, Semi Raglan, Gathered Raglan, Pleats Raglan, Cowl Raglan, Origami Raglan, Circular Curved Raglan, Capes Raglan and Constructive Design Raglan and the patterns per design were presented. For creative and experimental clothing by the analysis of the features of raglan sleeve structure, a variety of configuration methods need to be developed and implemented. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles as the basis for further study on the configuration methods of raglan sleeves. This study will be used in various ways as education materials on sleeve patterns in the educational field. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of raglan sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• 융합정보논문지
• /
• 제12권1호
• /
• pp.172-179
• /
• 2022

세탁 공정에서 다림질 공정은 세탁 등 다른 공정과는 달리 표준화된 공정처리가 난해하여 수작업에 의존한다. 이는 상의와는 달리 바지는 허리부분에 맵시 주름은 물론 허리 아래에 주름선이 있어서 두 부분으로 분리하여 다려야하기 때문에 2대의 독립된 다림 장비가 개발되어 사용되고 있다. 그러나 이러한 방법은 공정 간의 수동이동으로 작업자의 투입, 공간적 손실, 바지 구겨짐 등의 문제가 발생하여 두 장비를 융합한 바지다림 장치가 요구되고 있다. 본 논문에서 기술하는 일체형 바지다림 시스템은 바지 길이와 모양, 상단부 주름에 무관하게 바지 상단부와 측면부를 자동으로 순차 다림질하며, 또한 다림질 진행 상황을 사용자 모니터에 표시하면서 자가 진단 기능을 수행한다. 본 연구의 결과로 기존의 독립장비 2대를 사용하는 경우보다 다림질 수량을 증가시켜 2배의 성능 향상과 20% 이상의 소비전력을 절감하였다.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제38권5호
• /
• pp.79-90
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this research is to offer basic data for the study of men's suit by investigating the preference of design and form for men's suits. For data collection, a questionnaire was composed stymie of suits, form of lapel and vent of suits etc‥‥ The subjects of this research were male aged 20-59 and resided in Seoul and the capital region. The results of the research are summarized as the following: 1. Most men tend to prefer a set of suits rather than combination and formal style rather than casual or character style. And most of men like a little enough fittiness of suits. 2. Most men tend to prefer single-breasted jacket rather than double-breasted one. they also tend to prefer notched lapel and no vent jacket, especially men who work in sale, office and an independent enterprise. 3. Men who aged 20-40 tend to prefer classical pants, and one who aged 50 like wide pants. They also tend to prefer pants with pleats rather than one with darts. 4. Most men tend to prefer plain cloth rather than check, stripe pattem, and they tend to select blue and black color as their suits.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제18권5호
• /
• pp.727-738
• /
• 1994

It has been representing the delicate changes which express new sentiments through the floating, fluid, free look with the transparent, sheer material in fashion during the early 1990's. The concept of lightness is selected to describe the phenomenon of recent fashion. The purpose of this study is to identify the distinctive characteristics of lightness as external forms and internal meaning in fashion of the early 1990's. The data were collected from fashion magazines such as American Vogue, Italian Vogue from 1987 to 1994. The characteristics of lightness of fashion in the early 1990's are as follows; The external forms are consisted of the material such as the transparent, sheer, soft material, of slim and bell silhouette which occupying the more space in bottom, of the drapery, pleats to shape the unfitted look and is identified as the open, whole, indeterminate and planar intergration form according to the category of clothing form suggested by Belong. It is also the reflection of the social changes which is getting out of the modernity. It is the results of the dominant social state which are diffused the sensual pleasures, transitoriness.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
• /
• 제14권1호
• /
• pp.20-27
• /
• 2005

This study is focused on the concept and spatial organization of bifurcation. After discussing the concept of bifurcation used in Borges' literature and Deleuze's Fold philosophy, case examples in contemporary architecture are analysed to comparatively investigate the relationship between the concept and space. In Deleuze's philosophy, bifurcation as well as pleats, inflection are used to form the world of fold that goes to infinity while, in Borges' literature, the structure of bifurcation is the key method to create the labyrinth of time. There are various projects in contemporary architecture based on the Deleuzian concept of bifurcation. Rem Koolhaas's Two Libraries for Jussieu University and UN Studio's Arnhem Central are selected and researched for further comparison study. In Jussieu project, the bifurcating spatial organization is 'intentionally' used to construct the indeterminant space whereas in Arnhem Central, bifurcation can be found in both the ever-bifurcating design process as well as the final spatial organization'unintentionally'generated from the process. This study is concluded with the comparative analysis between the representation and actualization of a concept that are crucially different.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권3호
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop Blue-Jean Design for Ideal Body Shape. The final aim of Fashion design is looks beauty of people by optical illusion. This study is based on Gestalt therapy and, is blue jeans design using optical illusion of vertical line for ideal beauty body image. Optical illusion for blue-jean design effect to achieve the ideal body shape. We can accumulate the preceding study for modern clothing from design and the related optical illusion effects. Vertical line stitches have all the advantages especially in pants design. I design blue jeans using optical illusion theory. The results of this study are as follows: First, Vertical line helps that jean has the long body shape effectively. Second, Jeans which have two or more vertical lines is more effective than simple Jean in order to make slim body shape. Third, Appropriate position of horizontal lines can be effective to make long body shape. Fourth, Top stitch, pin-tuck and pleats can be applied to vertical or horizontal lines instead of cutting lines.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제9권2호
• /
• pp.207-222
• /
• 2001

This study investigates the chulik of Soo Buen's, Heymjo Kim's, Sooncheon Kim's grave in early Chosun Dynasty. The purpose of this study is to revise concretely the relation to Mongolian costume, Zilsun and Chulik, of the distintion of sex to wearer. This paper reviews the general construction form the excavated graves of them. This paper finds that there exist different Chulik forms according to the ratios between upper portion and lower portion in Early Chosun Dynasty. Eventhough they were a kind of Mongolian costume, in relation to Zilsun(質孫) and Chulik(帖 ) they are different form each other. They have a lot of pleats coat( 積袍), but they are different clothes, and also, even if Chulik were excavated in womens grave, because their husbands presented them to their wives, Chuliks were not women's, and they were used for men.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제24권7호
• /
• pp.1035-1043
• /
• 2000

This paper studied the excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek that had been found in Kwangju metropolitan city in 1986. The excavated costumes mainly show Po(포) including Chopni(첩리), Dapho(답호), Danryung(단령), Jikryung (직령). In addition, there are some kinds of trousers, hat, korean socks. The meanings of excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek are the followings: 1. They offer the important research materials to studying of general dress. 2. They offer actual proof materials of 15-16 century in opposition to depending on documentary records. 3. They offer the useful informations on the form, textile, dyeing because of good condition. 4. They offer the variety of Po that many persons weared at that times. 5. They offer the practical and rational construction by folding pleats and needlework. 6. They did not quilted padded clothes in comparison with other dress at that times. 7. They offer the important materials on the trousers. In the near future, we will study excavated costumes on dyeing, textile structure, trousers formation and so on.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제8권5호
• /
• pp.638-647
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study is to discover the interrelationship between modern costumes and Seung-Hee Choi's dancing costumes in 1930s. Seung-Hee Choi, who was a dancing pioneer in Korea, introduced the modern dancing costumes for the first time in Korea. The results are as followed ; First, we can find Eroticism in Choi's dancing dress. Choi's dancing costume had used gold thread, silver thread, spangle, see-through and a half-naked body clothing that decorated with beads and cords. It is similar to modern costumes in ubjet mtter, silhouette, design, and so on. Second, the influence of Futurism was in her dancing costumes, that is, it represented asymmetry designs and rectilineal figures. Third, not only beauty but also a Functionalism was expressed in her dancing costumes. Functional beauty was shown through bias cut, pleats, slit, and so on.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제24권1호
• /
• pp.9-15
• /
• 1986

It is studied that the typical garments of Korea Dynasty, especially focused on half-sleeved Saeng jo Po and conspicuous kinds of fabrics,. Characteristics of this Po are doubled collar, pleats, half-sleeved, a partial lining sewed in the back of an unlined coat, a breast-tie, and so on. It is that a girdle of Po had been used from the early Korea Dynasty, contrary to the general theory that a girdle of Po was the special characteristic of early Korea Dynasty in the garments history of Korea. It is that the species, it is that there are may characteristic way of patterns in the Korea Dynasty, such as turtle patterns, cloud patterns, swastika patterns. etc.