• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.221-232
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• 1995

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.32-45
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to propose changes that can be made to improve nurse uniforms in terms of outfit and functionality based on actual wearing conditions and nurse's preference. The proposed nurse uniform was composed of a blouse and pants. The design was as follows: the blouse had short set-in sleeve with China collar, a princess line, and it came down to middle hip. Armhole action pleats and back inverted pleats were embedded for convenient arm movements. The pants waist had a rubber band at the back waist, and the crotch length and the knee width were increased for activity. To make the pocket more accommodative, separate pocket slots treated with silicone were added to prevent belongings from coming out of the pocket. The pink tone of the uniforms, as well as the stripes on the blouses and spandex incorporated pants were based on nurses' preference. the nurse uniforms were produced after measuring the size of women in the age of 25 to 29, and the uniform patterns were corrected after two wearing experiments. Wearing test was examined in terms of appearance and functionality. For appearance, experts gave the uniforms a mean rating of 4.30, and nurses gave a mean rating of 4.00. Functionality was evaluated in terms of ease of activity and storage aspects. The total mean of ease of activity in nursing service was 4.30, whereas the evaluation of storage in terms of pocket position and convenience was 3.80.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.902-915
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• 2007

This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2003

The following paper deals with Persian costume of Achaemanid period in Persia. The study about Persian costume is very important for the research of European and Asian costume. However, its theme is insufficiently examined until now, so we were not able to recognize the Persian costume culture properly. For the reason mentioned above, this study is necessary for understanding the Persian costume culture at that time correctly. The research was undertaken with the information on historical archaeological art sites, analyzing the dressing carved in the reliefs of king's Audiencescene in Apadanastairs in Persepolis. The results driven from the study are as the following: There are two styles in the reliefs of Audiencescene in Apadanastairs. One is long robe with pleats, which is called Persiandress. The other is tunic and trousers. Persiandress, long robe with pleats which was the typical dress in Persia at that time was originally the dress of Elamites, who occupied a very advanced civilization in this region. This robe was a borrowing by the Persians from their Elamite neighbours as formal dress. There is the Persian dress worn by king, prince, guardsmen, servants in the reliefs of Audiencescene in Apadanastairs. It is inferred from this that the dress was popularly worn in Persian court. Tunic and trousers, the typical clothing of ridding race, is worn by Median who is one of the relatives of Persian. The tunic has narrow sleeves and is reaching the knees. The trousers are ending at the ankle. Beyond the clothing, various headgear are also examined according to the social status and nationality. These are being precious materials for study on the persian costume among the relations with other surrounding countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.211-223
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• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.207-217
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• 2012

The function of the school uniform is to represent the role of a student and also to restrict the scope of action for the student. Many students wear school uniforms for the most of their daily life. So the school uniform is very important for students during the school days. The purpose of this study was to suggest the fundamental information for the development of the school uniform design based on actual wearing conditions and preferred designs. Photos of school uniforms of 61 girls' high schools in Seoul were analyzed. Surveys of actual wearing conditions and preferred designs were investigated. The major conclusions of the study were as the following: 1. Most of the high school girls wore the uniform jackets that had tailored collars, were single breasted, slightly fitted, and that have a medium length between the waistline and hipline. Many students wore skirts with various pleats and knee length. Many school uniforms were navy blue and grey. 2. Many students bought ready-to-wear school uniforms from agencies with their parents. When they bought the school uniforms, they tried it on and confirmed the sizes on their own. However, since they didn't know the size systems, and they had to repair the size and design of the school uniforms. Students felt uncomfortable with how the shoulders and sleeves fit. 3. Uniform Jackets with tailored collars, single breasted, slightly fitted, and a short waistline length were preferred. Pleats skirts with knee length or upper-knee length were preferred. Navy blue and grey colors, and elastic fabrics were preferred. 4. When comparing the actual wearing conditions and preferred designs of school uniforms, there were a few differences in styles, but overall, students preferred shorter lengths of jackets and skirts. It is considered to reflect the fashion trends and the students' pursuit for beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.128-144
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to define the origin of name 'Watteau gown' which is controversial by analyzing a Watteau gown, represented in the paintings by Jean Antoine Watteau, an artist in the Rococo era, and clarify the shape and composition of a Watteau pleats which characterizes the Watteau gown and the morphological characteristic of the silhouette of the Watteau gown. Theoretical review and empirical research was simultaneously conducted. The theoretical review considered social backgrounds from late 17th century to early 18th century when Watteau actively worked and a background of forming the style of Fete galante. The empirical research was conducted by sampling 106 pieces of costume from Watteau's 65 paintings collected and classifying according to morphological shapes and composition. Based on this result, it is suggested that the Watteau gown was very prevalent as women's costume early in the 18th century. The Watteau gown, robe volante, robe battante, sack gown and robe a la Francaise were developed and modified from one gown which started from the same source in some connection. This study has significant meaning that it defines the origin of Watteau gown and Watteau pleats found in women's costume in the Rococo era. Furthermore this study will contribute to the practical use of costume elements of 18th century which are beautiful and artistic in aesthetics as the source of contemporary fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.1-18
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to identify the design features appropriate for the altered physical characteristics of pregnant women and formulate the direction of future design and development of maternity wear. A Delphi research method based on a panel of experts and pregnant women was used and the survey was conducted to determine the suitability of maternity wear. The survey found that A-line silhouette outerwear with round necklines, with wide sleeves and snap-button fastening on the front with a formal and decent look was considered appropriate as maternity and postpartum wear. Shirts and blouses long enough to cover the hip area to complement women's curvy and full figures, especially around the bust, waist, and hip areas during the later stages of pregnancy were found to be appropriate. Calf-length pleated skirts were comfortable to wear during pregnancy due to the abundant freedom of movement and space offered by pleats. Ankle-length straight leg pants were rated appropriate in terms of comfort and style both during late stages of pregnancy and at work postpartum. Dresses decorated with pleats from the armholes all the way down to the knees were found to provide high levels of comfort at the abdomen, chest, and hips, and considered appropriate. Based on this study results, a follow-up study will be conducted to examine the design of maternity wear during pregnancy as well as at work after pregnancy.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.285-291
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• 2013

Interest in traditional culture has been increasing due to globalization. We need to create fashion items using Korea folk culture like the Hanbok. In this paper, the design development of toddler's pajamas was attempted by using women's Sokgot pants, which were worn by women in Joseon Dynasty period. The study involved a review of literature and an investigation of past relics. Traditional women's Sokgot pants had a 'mu' or 'dang' in the crotch which is called 'the mit' now. The opening of the mit will be used for designing toddler's pajamas. Design suggestions for four styles of toddler's pajamas, which reflect the formative characteristic of women's Sokgot pants, have been created. Research outcomes are as follow: the characteristics of Ran-pants are applied to design 1 and design 2. There have pleats along the waistband of the toddler's pajamas, making the Mu more hidden. Pleats of the waist part are achieved by using an elastic, which also makes the pajamas easier to fit and to wear. The characteristics of Gaedanggo, of which the crotch is opened, are applied to design 3 and design 4. The opened crotch is applied so that toddlers can relieve themselves easily while they are wearing these pajamas. There is also an opening in the centerline of the front Mu in design 4 which gives additional functionality and comfort. This work shows that items of traditional folk dress can be used to make present fashion items.