• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.341-352
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• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

• Biomedical Science Letters
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.231-238
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• 2021

Several structural proteins present in keratinocytes of the skin are known to play an important role in the formation of epidermal tissue and barrier function, and the absence of structural proteins in keratinocytes causes various skin diseases. In this study, 42 types of tetrapeptides derived from the sequence of Loricrin, a kind of terminally differentiating structural protein, were synthesized, and skin anti-aging properties were measured by measuring the elastase inhibition, proliferation of skin cells. The anti-aging efficacy was verified and, based on this, it succeeded in selecting one of the most excellent peptides. It is expected that the selected tetrapeptide can be used as a raw material for various cosmetics and quasi-drugs based on anti-aging and skin cell proliferation effects.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.12
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• pp.62-70
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• 2018

In this study, we synthesized Oligo Peptide (Lys-Val-Ala-Arg-Pro: KVARP) and peptide derivatives using Solid Phase Peptide Synthesis(SPPS). KVARP was commonly known to improve whitening of skin. We measured bio-activity of the synthesized compounds. The whitening effect was measured in tyrosinase inhibition and the result showed to be highly effective with 93% inhibition rate at $5000{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ of Geranic-KVARP, on the other hand the IC50 value was $68{\mu}g/m{\ell}$. The wrinkle-reducing effect was measured by elastase inhibition at a concentration of 63% at $400{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ of Salicylic-KVARP, and the IC50 value was $253{\mu}g/m{\ell}$. In the DPPH assay, Caffeic-KVARP showed more than 95% antioxidant activity at $400{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ with high concentration and IC50 value was $31{\mu}g/m{\ell}$. The anti-inflammatory effect of Nitric Oxide inhibition was 67% at $400{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ of Lipoic-KVARP. Therefore, the four types of KVARP derivative that were synthesized from various experiments has shown that it could have potential to be used to develop new medicines, cosmetics as well as in various industries.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.419-425
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• 2018

In this study, cross-linked collagen gels were successfully prepared with varying of elastic modulus from 0.7 to 17.7 kPa using a chemical cross-linker. Then, human dermal fibroblasts were encapsulated into the porous pores introduced into the gels, and cell growth and behavior were examined by gel's mechanical properties. Specifically, increasing elastic modulus of the gel led to decreases in procollagen synthesis from 47 to 32 ng. In addition, there could be optimum elastic modulus for procollagen production, when the gels were treated with adenosine. However, interestingly, this study discovered that the procollagen production level was not influenced by the elastic modulus of the gel for functional peptide. In conclusion, these results would be highly useful for designing reconstructed skins with varying of elastic modulus to examine functional materials in cosmetics.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.220-225
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• 2020

Hair is made of proteins containing various amino acids. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is believed to be responsible for the most damaging effects of sunlight, and also plays an important role in hair aging. The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes in morphological and chemical structures after ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation of human hair. The UVB-irradiated hair showed characteristic morphological and structural changes, compared to those of the normal hair. The result from a scanning electron microscope (SEM) equipped with an energy dispersive X-ray diffractometer (EDX) showed that the scale of UV-irradiated hair appeared to be rough and the amount of oxygen element was higher than that of the normal hair. Fluorescence and three dimensional (3D) topographical images were obtained by a confocal laser scanning microscope (CLSM). In 3D images, the green emission intensity of normal hair was much higher than that of fluorescing UVB-irradiated hair. The intensity of green emission reflects the intrinsic fluorescence of hair protein. Also, a fluorescent imaging method using fluorescamine reagent was used to identify the free amino groups resulting from a peptide bond breakage in UVB-irradiated hair. Strong blue fluorescence of UVB-irradiated hair, which indicates a very high level of amino groups, was observed by CLSM. Therefore, the fluorescamine as an extrinsic fluorescence could provide a useful tool to identify the peptide bond breakage in UVB-irradiated hair. Infrared image mapping was also employed to assess the cross-sections of normal and UVB-irradiated specimens to examine the oxidation of disulfide bonds. The degree of peak areas with strong absorbance for the disulfide mono-oxide was spread from the outside to the inside of hair. The spectroscopic techniques used alone, or in combination, launch new possibilities in the field of hair cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.447-453
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• 2018

Acetyl hexapeptide 8 (AH8) is a synthetic peptide for anti-wrinkle cosmetics ingredient. It was developed as a mimetic of botox, patternd after N -terminal end of the protein synatosomal-associated protein 25 (SNAP25), a substrate of botulinum toxin. While AH8 has good efficacy and safety profiles, the permeation through the skin is poor. Therefore, we tried to enhance the transdermal delivery of AH8 by using of hyaluonic acid (HA), a linear polysaccharide of N-acetyl glucosamine and glucuronic acid. To investigate the effect of HA on AH8 penetration, we analyzed paraffin sections of $Micropig^{(R)}$ skin. Fluorescence labeled AH8 was applied to micropig skin with or without HA. The absorption of AH8 was limited to the stratum corneum (SC) without HA. On the other hand, AH8 penetrated to the dermis with HA. Especially, low molecular weight HA (5 kDa) was most efficient compared to 500 kDa HA and 2000 kDa HA. Experiments using fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy revealed that lower molecular weight HA had a tendency to increase the fluidity of the SC lipids more, which means enhancing the skin penetration. Therefore, HA could be expected to enhance the anti-wrinkle effect of AH8.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.938-946
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• 2022

This study aims to evaluate the effects of antioxidant activities, protein and mRNA expressions of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) -1 and procollagen type I C-peptide (PIP) in 70% ethanol extract from Hydnocarpus anthelmintica Pierre (HE). DPPH and ABTS⁺ radicals scavenging assays were measured for antioxidant activities and HE had 73.5% and 74.4% of scavenging activities at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration, respectively. And we investigated the inhibition of collagenase by HE, and the result was a 78.8% inhibition effect on concentrations of 1,000 ㎍/ml. In addition, an MTT assay was performed to confirm the toxicity of the CCD-986sk fibroblasts to the HE, and as a result, the cell viability rate was about 91.7% at a concentration of 50 ㎍/ml or less, and subsequent cell experiments were performed at a concentration of 50 ㎍/ml or less. We treated the cells with UVB (20 mJ/cm²) for stimulation, treated HE at various concentrations, and performed ELISA tests and RT-PCR experiments. And HE increased the PIP and mRNA in a dose-dependent manner and showed an expression rate of about 64.2% and 83.4%, respectively, at a concentration of 50 ㎍/ml compared with Cont (50.3% and 45.8%, respectively). And HE suppressed the MMP-1 protein and mRNA in a dose-dependent manner and showed a low expression rate of about 48.7% and 35.9%, respectively, at a concentration of 50 ㎍/ml. These results can be applied to developing anti-wrinkle materials for functional food and cosmetics with HE.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.29-35
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• 2020

In this study, the skin permeability was measured by adding cell penetrating peptides, arginine oligomers; (tetra-D-arginine (R4) and hexa-D-arginine (R6)) to little skin-permeable anti-wrinkle peptides (GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK), and the results were analyzed by the following six cases. First, in cases where only anti-wrinkle peptides were contained, copper ions (Cu₂⁺) and palmitic acid enhanced the transdermal permeability. Second, when arginine oligomers (R4, R6) were added to GHK, arginine oligomers (R4, R6) increased percutaneous permeability, and R4 showed better percutaneous permeability. Third, the addition of R4 and R6 to GHK-Cu resulted in increased percutaneous transmittance, followed by R6 < R4 percutaneous transmittance. Fourth, when R4 and R6 were added to Pal-GHK, the percutaneous permeability increased with results in R6 < R4 order. Fifth, when R4 was added to GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK, the transdermal permeability increased in the order of GHK+R4 < GHK-Cu+R4 < Pal-GHK+R4. Finally, the addition of R6 to GHK, GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK also resulted in increased percutaneous transmittance in the order of GHK+R4 < GHK-Cu+R4 < Pal-GHK+R4. This study provides optimal conditions for enhancing skin absorption of anti-wrinkle peptides GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK, and propose a wide range of applications in anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics by suggesting ways to maximize their efficacy.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.880-888
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• 2015

Foeniculum vulgare (FV) has long been used in traditional medicine for the treatment of inflammatory diseases. In addition, it is usually known as an important medicinal and aromatic plant widely used as a carminative, digestive, lactogogue, and diuretic, and for treating respiratory and gastrointestinal disorders. The skin barrier protects against the invasion of pathogens, fends off chemical and physical assaults, and protects against extensive water loss. In this study, the effects of solvent-fractionated FV fruits on strengthening the skin barrier and maintaining moisture, as well as their antifungal activity, were investigated in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells. The expression of involucrin, loricrin, filaggrin, hyaluronic acid synthase, human β defensin, and cathelicidin genes and proteins was measured by reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) and western blotting. The production of hyaluronic acid was determined by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). The butanol fraction increased the expression of involucrin and filaggrin. Both the ethyl acetate and the butanol fractions increased hyaluronic acid production by promoting the expression of hyaluronic acid synthase-1. Although the antimicrobial peptides were increased by FV crude extract and its fractions, the samples did not show a significant effect compared to the normal group. These results suggest that the butanol fraction of FV could be very useful in cosmetics for the treatment of dermatological diseases.

• Journal of Mushroom
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.32-37
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• 2008

This study was carried out to investigate the growth inhibition of Propionibacterium acnes by mycelial culture broth of Paecilomyces japonica in the Mulberry leaf extract. The growth inhibition effect of P. japonica mycelial culture broth against P. acnes in various concentration of Mulberry leaf extract was the most effective in 3% Mulberry leaf extract. The inhibition effect of P. japonica mycelial culture broth against P. acnes according to the culture time was the moust effective after 25 days mycelial cultivation. As the treating amount of the mycelial culture broth was increased, the growth inhibition effect against P. acnes was increased gradually. The growth inhibition effect of mycelial culture broth against P. acnes according to the time of heat treatment was active by 45min at $100^{\circ}C$, while it was inactive more than 60min at $100^{\circ}C$. This result suggested that the antibacterial materials are possible to be glycoside or peptides. Taken together P. japonica mycelial culture in the Mulbarry leaf extract has a possibility to be an element of skin-care cosmetics regulating the acnes.