• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.149-162
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• 1998

This study is thed Embroidery, Cross-stitchery, Weaving, Wax-Printing of technique and design appeared in textile of Miaos dwells in south-west among the minority people of china. The study is as follows. First, the technique of textile1) satin stitch, couching stitch, french-knot stitch, etc. using anther silk thread or cotton thread color 2) cross-stitchery 3) hand-weaving technique which is shaped other warp or weft using simple loom 4) the technique of dyeing of pattern using effect with wax. These methods are singly used mixing together, therefore doubled beauty. Second, these technuque of ornament have other independence, specially ornament apron, sling, sleeve borders, slack borderss, edge of upper garment, take off and put on easily, heighten effect of various ornament, can preserve many years. Third, Maker, female born in this country fashion by need of herself, used liberal method shown in unique creativity of life. This texture make standards capable female proud of intelligent and skill of herself. Fourth, Design appeared in textile like as pattern flying bird in the sky, strolling beast in the field, lion rolling gem, laughing dragon winding snake at gem, birks, flowers, fish, butterfly is used as the wish of long life, a lucky sign. They expressed creativity and unique conception using formation : the technique transform other shape using by omitting or adding or overestimating. Geometric pattern of tartan, revealing, Fifth, composition structure having balance and symmetry or contradiction towards center and circumstance of the center harmonized repeatedly method, expressed unique artful attraction by full composition.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.270-281
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• 2021

The Yongjam of Oejae, Yi Dan-ha's wife, is an ornamental hairpin with a dragon-shaped engraving; designated as National Folklore Cultural Heritage No. 4. It is also a component of the ceremonial costume, and an artifact of great value as it clearly identifies the position of the wearer and the period of this artifact. The Yongjam has been well preserved in general; however, various pollutants and corrosive products have affected the engraved patterns, requiring conservation treatment. Furthermore, a non-destructive analysis was conducted to identify the components of the materials and the manufacturing techniques used in the ornament. The Yongjam is hollow inside to reduce its weight when placed in the hair and has a color contrast of gold, red, and black. The decorative part and the body were made separately. That is, the body was made from an alloy of copper, silver, and zinc, and its joint was elaborately connected without any overlaps. In the decorative part, different alloy ratios were identified in the dragon's face, beard, horn, body, and fin. Further, for the dragon's face with its delicate patterns, an alloy of silver and copper was used, likely to make the face appear as realistic as possible.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.74-82
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• 2006

In ancient China, Su(綬) was the ornament of the full dress. It had originated from tying the jade or another thing before Jen(秦:Qin) dynasty and it tied the imperial jade seal and the chop from Han dynasty. Su of Han dynasty was different in the inscape, colour, length and density according to the grade. And the shape was the straight line. But these phenomena were changed after Han dynasty. This study showed how it changed. To studying used the comparison method of literature records, paintings and archeological relics. It mostly studied imperial Su. Su of Han dynasty of the high grade was formed by Yeok, the circle type jade and Su(Su moaned whole Su, at the same time moaned the part of Su, too). Afterward, Yeok was changed into Small Su[小綬] and Su was changed into Big Su(大綬). Originally the circle type jade was connecting Yeok to Su, but it was changed into tying Small Su only. Su of Han dynasty used the four kinds of colour, but from Su(隋: Sui) dynasty used the six kinds of colour. Originally Su was interlacing, but it was changed into the silk fabric from Song[宋] dynasty. According to using silk fabric's Su, it was likely to disappear the system distinguishing the grade by length. And it kept the method of interlacing the reticulation in the low part of silk fabric's Su. So, after using silk fabric's Su, the system of the density was not about the main body but about the reticulation. Su was been used woven with supplementary golden wefts, too. The circle type jade was chiseled the dragon and cloud from Geum[金:Jin] dynasty. These not the pattern of silk fabrics.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.38-51
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• 2003

Peking Opera, one of a representative Chinese dramas, is a synthesis of drama and stage art. Peking Opera's stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though its style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty's clothing style. The special patterns in the clothing were very important because they classified social rankings. There are two kinds of roles in Peking Opera. Sheng stands for male roles and Dan stands for female roles though Dan had traditionally been acted by male actors with female attire until the ruling of the People's Republic of China. There are five different kinds Peking Opera's stage costume. First, Mang is a formal dress for kings and generals. It is a very delicate long Po with special patterns. It has several names depending on the color and shape of a dragon. Second, Pee is a casual attire for kings, government officials, and their families. It is also a long Po with front opening and symmetrical neckline. Third, Kao is an armor of warrior which is made not for protection in a real war but for ornament of a formal dress. Kao reflects the wearer's authority when the wearer stays still, but it is a comfortable clothing for big dancing moves once the wearer starts dancing. The wearer puts a banner into the shoulder to alarm tension of a war. Fourth, Cheup is an outfit that one wears the left part adjust to the top. There are different lengths of Cheup and it has a straight neckline. There are twenty-one different kinds of Cheup according to its shape and color. Last, Yi is name for the rest of Peking Opera's stage costume other than Mang, Pee, Kao, and Cheup.

• Korean Journal of Oriental Medicine
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.33-41
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• 2010

Patterns are symbolic expressions of life style or sentiment of people as a product of culture. Furthermore, it is a type of language that the shape or implication does not change much over time. Patterns shown on the Korean medical containers are related to human life and health that they are not very diverse and splendid but closed used in real life. The medical containers include the alcohol container or tea-ware in broad sense, but under this study, it would be handled only for the Korean medical containers directly used to protect human health and treatment of diseases. They would be the Medicine Mortar and Pestle that is used to grind the herbal medical ingredients, pots that hold the liquid decoction, containers to keep the medical ingredients in general conceptual use for medical purposes. The patterns inscribed are classified in animal pattern, plant pattern or alphabet pattern. Turtle, crane, ginseng, and life patterns have the contemplation to pray for long life without disease or good fortune, while plum pattern, dragon pattern and the like are used in the medical containers used mainly in royal families with the social status and dignity shown. As such, patterns have not only ornament elements but also the symbolic implication to represent long life without illness for human. It provides the basic data of medical wisdom contained in the pattern and willingness of human to protect life from illness. On the basis of such research, it would require ensuing studies to make comparison and analysis with the medical containers with the patterns in the adjacent countries in the days to come.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.23
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• pp.91-108
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• 2020

This study conducted non-destructive analyses of the material features of seven gilt-bronze crowns of Baekje Kingdom that were excavated in the Cheonan, Gongju, Seosan, Iksan, Naju, and Hapcheon areas. A typical Baekje gilt-bronze crown has a conical inner crown and an outer crown embellished with vertical ornaments on the front and the back, a tube topped with a hemispherical ornament, and other ornamentation. Diverse designs (e.g., dragon, bonghwang, flowers, and plants) were applied using a range of techniques, including repoussé, chasing, openwork, and engraving. Formal features differ among the crowns according to their period of production and site of excavation. The substrate metal of the crowns is either pure copper or mixed copper with a small amount of lead. The crowns were amalgam-plated on the surface with pure gold or gold with a small amount of silver. The crown from Okjeon Tomb No. 23 in Hapcheon in the ancient Gaya region has a high silver content, which appears to be a regional feature. In addition, this crown from Okjeon Tomb No. 23, which can be categorized as Baekje-style gilt-bronze crown, seems to be plated at most three times, while the gilt-bronze crowns found within Baekje Kingdom territory were plated once or twice.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.62-85
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• 2009

The Nam-Hae Sin-sa, the South Sea shrine in Yeong-Am, Korea was a national institution for public peace and bliss, was excavated in 2000, and the shrine and the 3-way-gate were reconstructed in 2001. Hae Sin-sa, the Sea shrine is a place for religious service separated into the Nam-Hae Sin-sa, the Dong-Hae Myo, and the Seo-Hae Dan. The Dong-Hae Myo was reconstructed, but restored shrine and 3-way-gate of the Nam-Hae Sin-sa is not perfect in comparison with excavation plan in 2000, therefore new reconstruction was researched through the related literature, the analysis of historical maps and excavation results, the interview with the concerned people and the case study. This research defines the analysis of the Plan of the Nam-Hae Sin-sa Reconstruction as follows. 1. The Nam-Hae Sin-sa was the institution for religious service operated by national direct management, represents the shrine for public peace and bliss on the Mountain, the Sea, and the River. Especially the Nam-Hae Sin-sa had an important position on the pivot of international trade with China and Japan, and had a role of main shrine with another one in the Mt. Ji-ri San. 2. The name of the Sea shrine was called as Nam-Hae Sin-sa(the South Sea shrine), Dong-Hae Myo(the East Sea shrine), Seo-Hae Dan(the West Sea shrine). But the name of the South Sea shrine had changed in the early period of Chosun as Nam-Hae Sin-sa to the later Chosun as Nam-Hae Dang through the research of related literature and historical map. Such as the Seo-Hae Dan, it was constructed for the Dan, the flat raised-floor without buildings, and changed to the type of Sa-Dang with addition of buildings. 3. The historical map of Hae Sin-sa informs the types of the roof, the Mat-bae roof was used in the Dong-Hae Myo, but the Pal-jak roof was showed in the Seo-Hae Dan and the Nam-Hae Sin-sa. 4. According to the analysis of Yong-Ch'uck the unit length, Nam-Hae Sin-sa was reconstructed in the period of Koryo on large scale, but it was restored in the Chosun on middle scale. And the Unit of Yong Ch'uck was changed into Yeong-jo Ch'uck in the period of Chosun. 5. As the results, The Plan of the Nam-Hae Sin-sa Reconstruction designed the new shrine into the 3 Kan front and the 2 Kan side with 3:2 scale. An-ch'o-gong with Yong-du and Yong Mi the ornaments represents head and tail of dragon, the Un-gong and the ornament of Pa-ryun-dae-gong in the building, and the Ch'ung-ryang of the Yong-du show the image of the institution for religious service for the god of the sea who look like dragon. The inner gate building and the main entrance were designed as same plan and scale as Hyang-gyo, the Korean Traditional School and Shrine of Confucianism, on the basis of results of excavation. Raise the 3-tall gate of the main entrance with harmony of the scale and the shape, because the side of gate building has the Mat-bae roof. 6. This research shows that Plan of the Nam-Hae Sin-sa Reconstruction is composed into shrine space and reservation space from the main entrance to inner gate and shrine like Jung-ak Dan in the Mt. Gye-ryong San, and it also informs the well in the west side of Sin-sa is an important factor of the plan of shrine architecture.

• Bangmulgwan gwa yeongu (The National Museum of Korea Journal)
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• v.1
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• pp.174-197
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• 2024

Personal ornaments made from precious metals that have been excavated from tombs dating to the Maripgan period (4th-6th century) of the Silla Kingdom are a major subject of analysis in the study of gender and hierarchy among the tomb occupants. Nonetheless, bracelets had been neglected until Ha Daeryong's recent research on determining gender through bracelets attracted attention. Accordingly, an examination and organization of the fundamental elements of Silla bracelets was needed. In response, this paper examines their physical characteristics, appearance, changes over time, and related wearing practices. The data for this study is derived from 176 bracelets, mostly made from silver or gold. Copper and glass bracelets are also included. Many of them were cast in a single-use earthen mold. Even the notched and protruding designs were created by casting rather than carving. Glass bracelets and bracelets with dragon designs were made using molds with round cavities. Excluding those produced using metal sheets, the rest of the bracelets are thought to have been cast in a mold with a long-string-shaped cavity and then bent round. After being bent, the two ends were either soldered together (closed type) or left open (open type). As demonstrated in the study by Lee Hansang, Silla bracelets evolved from plain rounded rod-shaped bracelets, such as the one excavated from the Northern Mound of Hwangnamdaechong Tomb, to versions with notched designs, and eventually to those with protruding designs, which gained popularity by the sixth century. The precedents of plain rounded rod-shaped bracelets are presumed to have been thin rod-shaped bracelets from the Proto-Three Kingdoms period. Bracelets need to be fit to the wrists so that they do not slip off easily when worn. The open type design was the preferable way to achieve this. Moreover, given the ductility of gold, silver, and copper, it seems that it would have been possible to stretch or deform them. In the end, I concluded that even if a bracelet is too small to pass man's hand, the open type could have been worn. Furthermore, if a closed-type bracelet were pressed into an oval shape, it would not be impossible for a man to put it on. When bracelets are divided according to their degree of deformability into type A (the open type) through type D, which is almost impossible to deform, type A is commonly found with wearers of thin hollow earrings, and types C and D (which are difficult to deform) are not found with wearers of thin hollow earrings, but only with wearers of thick hollow earrings. Therefore, it can be seen that men were allowed to wear bracelets, and the existing studies that differentiate between men and women based on the wearing of thin hollow earrings, thick hollow earrings, and swords remain valid.