• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권5호
• /
• pp.772-778
• /
• 2006

Silk organza can make the silhouette of clothes bulky and rich, owing to its stiffness. And silk organza in the gum has better dyeability so can be dyed more bright and deeper color than scoured silk because silk organza has sericin gum that has better dyeability than fibroin. So, silk organza came into the most broad use as the material for Hanbok, especially in summer. But the silk organza has poor color fastness. Sericin is removed from organza when silk organza go through scouring. The purpose of this research is to find out the optimum conditions that the scoured silk fabrics can get stiffness by persimmon juice treatment. For experiments, non scoured, partially scoured and fully scoured silk fabrics were prepared by alkali treatments. Then 3 kinds of silk fabrics were treated with the concentration of 1, 5, 10, 50 and 100% of persimmon Juice. The change of fiber surface of the various silk fabrics were observed By SEM. The hand values of those fabric samples also were measured hand values by Kawabata Evaluation System and stiffness by Cantilaver method. By scouring, the silk organza got more flexibility and less cohesiveness between their fibers. And it can be a little more bulky by removing gum. Namely, silk organza lost its unique stiff and crisp handle. By the persimmon juice treatment, tannin component could be coated on the fiber surface. so that the stiffness of the fabrics were improved.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제2권2호
• /
• pp.41-54
• /
• 2000

History of fashion and clothing is needed to understand modern fashion and to predict Future mode. The period of Romanticism in fine arts was from the end 18th century up to the first half of 19th century. The characteristics of shilouttes were found in the emphasis owomen's body line. This feature of romantic fashion is founded in 1960, 1970, 1980, 1990'mode. Major characters of this times are retro of romantic costume. As time goes by, more romantic fashion was set up and new corncern of 2000 fashion trend. The Characteristics of romantic image in 2000 of fashion trend are the emphasis of romantic details and decorations. Such as ruffle, frill, shirring, beads, spangle, sequin, flower. Trend colors are pink, lilac, aqua blue, yellow, green, pastel color. Trend materials chiffon, organza, satin, velvet, gauze, georgette, lace and glittery material. And floral print and stripe print. Forward­looking fashion is ethnic­romantic image influenced India. Trend and fashion have very close relationship and if it is fully comprehended, it will be good opportunity to awkardness againnst new fashion line.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권2호
• /
• pp.155-171
• /
• 2007

Exaggerated expressions of contemporary fashion have exceeded historical precedents in volume. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetic characteristics of expanded form In contemporary fashion. To take dresses beyond their flat shapes into three-dimensional forms, it was investigated into volume of dresses by using the void and the mass. The void Is rarefied space and the mass is densified space. The void of dresses could be constructed from the boning such as panier and stiff textiles as organza lining. The mass could be constructed from padding. Fold, pleats, twist, and the layering of fabrics show features of both the void and the mass. Contemporary fashion designers relied on the void rather that the mass to make the enormous volume because of the weight of the mass. X-silhouette and the expansion of skirt and sleeve were dominant as the result of accentuating the body with a waistline. However, many of expanded dresses were so voluminous that they obscured the body's outlines. Some forms were strange and shocking. Many designers explored the void and there were a multitude of methods to construct the void: compartments of air, architectural techniques, technical textiles, fold such at origami. The aesthetic consciousness of expanded dresses could be classified into 7 categories, the giant, the dynamic, the deconstructive, the historical, the comedic, the rhythmical, and the technical character.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권6호
• /
• pp.41-52
• /
• 2004

The objective of this study is to contemplate both the formation and the aesthetic characteristics of the ballerina look represented in modern fashion by analyzing a ballet costume. The results of this study could be summarized as the following: the ballerina look is formed by ballet costume itself with being stick to or exposing human body line, or by casual dress mixed with a ballet costume; the materials consist of both the major materials for a ballet costume such as silk, chiffon, tulle, lace, or organza, and the usual materials for casual dress: a variety of color such as transparent, pastel etc. is also used with typically used colors like white and black: decoration is basically composed of ruffle, drape, gather and the distinctive accessory like toe shoes, ribbon tape, ankle warmer is used to show a feature of a ballet costume These formative characteristics of the ballerina look presented in modern fashion implies illusory, pure, and hybridity. traits. First, illusion of the ballerina look not only implicitly expresses a womans wish to experience a ballerina's fantastic world, but also recreates woman herself into a ballerina on a stage. Second, purity of the ballerina look makes design look feminine and smooth, which is expressed with girlish taste through materials and colors. Third, hybridity of the ballerina look suggests a standard of a new trend, which is active style, by adding comfortableness and flexibleness to romantic femininity.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제26권11호
• /
• pp.1527-1576
• /
• 2002

Quick Response based Mass-Customization can be produced and distributed customized goods and services on mass basis in apparel e-business. Because consumers can: t touch and feel the apparel products in e-business, they tend to have the negative buying behavior. The purpose of this study is to investigate the differences of consumer's texture sensibility of apparel products based on marketing channels (on-line/off-line). Two types of questionnaires for on-line and of f-line were used to assess consumer sensibility on apparel fabric. The 8 swatches were selected in regard to the previous literatures. 205 questionnaires for each type (on-line/off-line) were distributed. Statistical devices were t-test, mean and standard deviation with SPSS10.0. The result of this study was showed that there were partially significant differences on consumers' texture sensibility on apparel products between on-line and off-line. Under on-line environment, consumers perceived corduroy as warm, strong, and sandy. taffeta as warm, sandy, and glossy, denim as sandy, and warm, organza as sandy, and thin, satin as sandy, dense, and modern, chiffon as sandy, and flat, velvet as warm, and soft, single jersey as warm, soft, and comfortable. Therefore, apparel firms cooperating based Mass-Customization in e-business have to pay attention to the differences on consumers’ texture sensibility of on-line apparel products from those of off-line.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제22권6호
• /
• pp.873-889
• /
• 2014

The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals' attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women's Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today's designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제25권8호
• /
• pp.1408-1419
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion trends of last three years and how the trends were imaged by the structural characteristics of the fabrics. The characteristics for 897 fabrics were analyzed from four kinds. eleven volumes of fashion trend magazines. From these magazines, three panels categorized by their frequencies as nine images such as natural, innocent, ethnic, childish, casual, classic, modern and technical, Sub-images of each image such as rustic, irregular, decorative, etc were also categorized. For the each image, fiber contents and structural characteristics of weave type, weight, density, yarn size, twist and fabric finishes were investigated in terms of frequency, range and mean, Results showed that chiffon and organza seemed to have very specific images and used to represent specifically the romantic or ethnic images; whereas voile and jersey was used to represent various images. For S/S seasons, most popular fiber type was cotton. The weave type was not the important factor to give variations in images; plan weave exclusively used irrespective of image. For the romantic, ethnic and innocent images, rather light fabrics were used. For the childish and natural, medium weights, and for the technical, modern and classic images heavy weight fabrics were used. Vaious finishes were employed to represent specific images.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제13권5호
• /
• pp.23-36
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this research is to design and to produce actual high value added wedding dress comprised of the pear blossoms pattern(梨花紋), which is one of the traditional patterns which was not researched to this day, and of the Dang-$\breve{u}$i(唐衣) image which reflects our concept of beauty as if as a means of conducting empirical study for the application of traditional Korean patterns to the contemporary application. pear blossoms effectively signifie the image of beautiful bride thanks to the pure, graceful and clean image of white flower, both in the external and internal aspects. The Dang-$\breve{u}$i of the Chosun Dynasty, which is another motif is one of the representative clothing that expresses the beauty of the curve when it comes to the Korean culture as traditional wedding dress. Attempt was made to develop design for wedding dress that expresses the Korean style beauty that combined the tradition and the modern. Towards this end, the project was composed of the Korean-like Ewha, image of the Dang-$\breve{u}$i I, II and III to design three dresses. The Dress I presents the image of pure, elegant and beautiful bride, while Dress II represents the pure and city like trendiness of the Korean women today as bride. Dress III was made centered on the image of elegant, and chaste bride. As for the materials used, hand-woven silk and silk organza used for the traditional clothes. As for the ornaments, embroidery, quilted work, beads, corsage, burn-out and other techniques were used for expression.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2007

This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제26권4호
• /
• pp.613-631
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study is to collect and analyze costumes presented in international dance sports competitions, and summarize the features of Latin American dance costumes' design. As for research methods, standards of Latin American dance costume design were analyzed via a literature review on dance sports. The scope of the study extended for six years from 2010 to 2015 to include the, top three UK Latin American dance competitions. The results are as follows. First, the silhouette analysis determined that the X silhouette to the lead with, -145 costumes (78%), followed by the H silhouette at 25 (13%), and other at 16 (9%). Amongst those there were 174 one-piece dresses (94%). Furthermore, the analysis on colors of Latin American dance sports costumes revealed that, amongst the 186 costumes, 115 were without color (62%), Bl(black) is the most frequent with 37%, then Wh(white) with 21% and Gr(gray) with 4%. Costumes with colors, based on the six basic colors in the Munsell color system, are comprised most often of red with 12%, the followed by Y(yellow) at 10%, B(blue) at 8%, YR(yellow-red) at 4%, P(purple) at 2%, and G(green) at 2%. Thirdly, the cloth materials of Latin American dance costumes are recognized through image inspection. Among visually recognizable materials, beading materials are the most common with 104 costumes (60%). Shiny materials like mesh, chiffon, organza, lace and burn-out are in 36 costumes in total (19%). Other cloth materials included Luster materials and; non-sheen materials, which were in 46 costumes (25%).