• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.93-103
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• 1999

This study is intended to propose the new design course on Contemporary folk Hanbok by researching their preference to Contemporary folk Hanbok. To do so, the definition of styles, preference in details and fitness for the occasion to wear Contemporary folk Hanbok were evaluated and analyzed. The collected materials were investigated in quality and content. As for the data, five Contemporary folk Hanbok brands, in the city were selected and twenty styles from catalog were extracted. The subjected of study were 219 university students living in Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po. they answered the questionnaires, the results of study were following: 1) In style of Contemporary folk Hanbok, there were positive support on longer Jeogori than traditional one and a seamless one-piece skirt at the length of ankle. But they had the negative thought of various spapes shapes related to the styles of Contemporary folk Hanbok. 2) In a view point of coloring on women's Contemporary folk Hanbok, the student supported the saturation more than special preference to similarity or contrast harmony. Students liked the harmony of achromatic colors or same colors up and down which are not traditional 3) In men's Contemporary folk Hanbok, students were for the harmony of same colors in up and down, preferring wool/polyester to cotton or silk100% (traditional materials) in materials 4) It indicates that what students thought generally of the occasional appropriateness of Contemporary folk Hanbok didn't match with the choice of proper occasion on preferred style. The western clothes have difference in design, material, color and manners of co-ordination related to ordinary cloths and out wear, but Contemporary folk Hanbok don't have these difference. Therefore, it is needed to develop the expensive designs discriminated between ordinary clothes and out wear in design, material, color and co-ordination corresponding to the every day life style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.167-179
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• 1998

The objective of this study is to examine the costumes of the period covered in the writings of Shilhak (practical science) scholars and to research the history of costumes and their characteristics by examining how they are worn in genre paintings which are said to describe the actual life of the period. This should be studied in order to correctly establish the history of costumes. To begin with, through the writings of the representative Shilhak scholars who are thought to have affected the changes in ordinary costumes for woman, this study examined how ordinary woman of the period looked in their costumes and how they regarded various costumes they had. Then, how their viewpoints of costumes influenced ordinary costumes was investigated. Not only relics, but what was commonly worn, as they appeared in the genre paintings that contain information about daily living of that period, were researched chronologically. The results of this study showed that the change in ordinary costumes for woman in the late Chosun period was affected by Shilhak scholars who had ideologies of Shilsakusi (use of positive methods in studying), Yiyonghusaeng (the promotion of commerce and industry and the development of techonologies), and Ky ngsech'iyong (pursuit of stability in a rural economy). Moreover, after those changes there were many more changes. However, the criticism of costumes of that time and the will of revolution affected some time, costumes changed directly. The forms of the costumes had been changed in a variety of ways following the tendencies of the times, but the origin of today's hanbok (Korean traditional dress) had already been fixed in the late Choson period. Yet, today's hanbok are for special occasions, not worn as ordinary clothing. Thus, there are several reasons why the hanbok is not suitable for daily life. One of the reasons is that Korean could not cope with the western costumes indepen-dently imported during Japanese occupation in the last period of the Choson Dynasty and con-tinuing the Japanese Colony. Thus, only a part of the ordinary costume of the late Choson period has remained until now.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.339-345
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• 2019

This study explores the Experiential Theory of John Dewey and Donald Norman's definition of user experiences to analyze the new cultural experience of trying on Hanbok among the young generation. In order to find out the demographic characteristics, the survey was conducted online. An in-depth interview was held among six women in their 20's who were randomly selected to obtain diverse consumer's opinions. According to the interview, rather than recognizing the traditional beauty of Hanbok, the interviewers recognized the aesthetic sensibility of modernized Hanbok. In addition, the uniqueness of wearing Hanbok which has become the non-ordinary culture and the desire to share the experience is analyzed through characteristics such as particularity. In order to develop cultural contents that are highly marketable, consistent analyzation and research of the fluctuating desire of customers are essential since users perceive their experience to be special.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.15-29
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• 2015

Apart from keeping the body pleasant and protecting it from the environment, the purpose of clothing is to express one's sensibility, sense of belonging, status, and aesthetic sense. In the past, hanbok was also used to express status and class with the colors and the types and according to the times, the forms of hanbok has changed. Nowadays, people choose and wear hanbok that suits their tastes or purposes and various types of hanbok that considered pros and cons of it are now disseminated. Given this reality, traditional shrouds that are worn by the dead should also be designed newly to fit the modern trend. This research aims to analyze how people's sensibility preferences change on the traditional shrouds and the modern shrouds that are designed to fit the current trend. To see the change, this research analyzes sensibility preferences by using Semantic Differential Method on 4 modern shrouds that are used in preceding research and 1 traditional shroud. The survey was answered by total of 130 ordinary people in groups of 26 people in 5 groups who reside in Seoul and Kyungkhi province. As the result of the analysis, firstly, people preferred "high quality", "elegant", and "Korean" sensibility words for modern shrouds 1, 2, 3, and 4. Secondly, on traditional shroud, "uncomfortable", "neutral-elegant", "neutral-Korean", and "neutral-quality" that is closer to low quality sensibility words are preferred. Thirdly, "modest" and "extravagant" did not show any statistically significant difference. I hope this research can provide basic data that can be used to understand and comprehend on people's sensibility preference about shroud designs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.106-115
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• 2010

This study's purpose is to, first survey the traditional children clothing, clothing which doesn't get studied mostly. Second, to choose the factor that can modernize. Third, to design the present one-piece dress. Fourth, to gather an understanding about traditional children clothing and make a chance for children to wear the clothing that has a traditional factor. Traditional children clothes have a same shape with adults' clothes they use five primary color and use a pattern of a symbolic meaning which means healthy and long life. For ordinary wears there are Chimajogori and Bajijogori and for ceremonial dresses they wore Durumagi, Sagyusam which are Po and Dangui and headdress was added. The shape was considered by the children growth condition so the Gorum got longer. The dragon, cicadas, butterfly, phoenix and lots of flower pattern was used by the difference with the class. 5 one-piece design adapted Jogori, skirt, Dangui, Sagyusam, Magoja and used the traditional fabric by mixing the five primary color and the five secondary color was used to make traditional color. This study expects for a chance of children to wear traditional Hanbok or Hanbok-adapted clothes.