• Title/Summary/Keyword: Ocean waves

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OBSERVATIONS BY SATELLITE ALTIMETRY OF SHORT SURFACE WAVE ENERGY IN THE DECEMBER 2004 SUMATRA TSUNAMI

  • Gower, Jim
    • Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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    • v.1
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    • pp.43-46
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    • 2006
  • The main tsunami wave triggered by the December 2004 Sumatra tsunami was detected in the ocean south of India by satellite altimeters on Jason, Topex/Poseidon and Envisat. All three altimeters also detected shorter-wavelength (10 to 100 km), slower-propagating surface waves, spreading from the site of the earthquake. The shorter waves give additional information about the tsunami event, and can be used to better define the generating region in this, and future tsunamis. The properties of the area of shorter tsunami-generated waves may also be important in designing a future satellite-based detection system.

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A Study on the Generation of Capillary Waves on Steep Gravity Waves

  • Lee, Seung-Joon
    • Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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    • v.4 no.4
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    • pp.45-55
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    • 2000
  • A formal solution method using the complex analysis is given for the problems derived by Longuet-Higgins(1963). The same method is applied to a new perturbation problem of higher approximation. Interpretation of its solution made it possible to confirm that the rough agree-ment of Longuet-Higgins\`s prediction with experimental data of Cox(1958) was mainly due to the fact that the gravity effect in the perturbation problem was neglected for the case when the basic gravity wave not sufficiently steep.

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A Simulation of Directional Irregular Waves at Chagui-Do Sea Area in Jeju Using the Boussinesq Wave Model (Boussinesq 모델을 이용한 제주 차귀도 해역의 다방향 불규칙파 시뮬레이션)

  • Ryu, Hwang-Jin;Shin, Seung-Ho;Hong, Key-Yong;Hong, Seok-Won;Kim, Do-Young
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.21 no.1 s.74
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    • pp.7-17
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    • 2007
  • Based on the Boussinesq wave model, the wave distribution in the Chagui-Do sea area in Jeju was simulated by applying the directional irregular waves at an incident boundary. The time and spatial variations of monthly mean wave height and period were investigated, which aims to provide basic information on optimal sites for wave power generation. The grid size and time interval of the Boussinesq wave model were validated by examining wave distributions around a surface piercing wall, fixed at sea bottom with a constant slope. Except for the summer season, the significant wave height is dominated by wind waves and appears to be relatively high at the north sea of Chagui-Do, which is open to the ocean, while it is remarkably reduced at the rear sea of Chagui-Do because of its blocking effect on incident waves. In the summer, the significant wave height is higher at the south sea, and it is dominated by the swell waves, which is contributed by the strong south-west wind. The magnitude of significant wave height is the largest in the winter and the lowest in the spring. Annual average of the significant wave height is distinctively high at the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast, due to a steep variation of water depth and corresponding wave focusing effect. The seasonal and spatial distribution of the wave period around Chagui-Do sea reveals very similar characteristics to the significant wave height. It is suggested that the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast is the mast promising site for wave power generation.

Numerical investigation on combined wave damping effect of pneumatic breakwater and submerged breakwater

  • Wang, Yanxu;Yin, Zegao;Liu, Yong;Yu, Ning;Zou, Wei
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.314-328
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    • 2019
  • This paper attempts to combine the pneumatic breakwater and submerged breakwater to increase the effectiveness of wave damping for long-period waves. A series of physical experiments concerning pneumatic breakwater, submerged breakwater and their joint breakwater was conducted and used to validate a mathematical model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations, the RNG $k-{\varepsilon}$ turbulence model and the VOF method. In addition, the mathematical model was used to investigate the wave transmission coefficients of three breakwaters. The nonlinear wave propagation behaviors and the energy transfer from lower frequencies to higher frequencies after the submerged breakwater were investigated in detail. Furthermore, an optimal arrangement between pneumatic breakwater and submerged breakwater was obtained for damping longer-period waves that cannot be damped effectively by the pneumatic breakwater alone. In addition, the reason for the appearance of the combination effect is that part of the energy of the transmitted waves over the submerged breakwater transfers to shorter-period waves. Finally, the impact of the joint breakwater on the wave field during wave propagation process was investigated.

Study on Wave Generation Technique and Estimation of Directional Wave Spectra for Multi-Directional Irregular Waves (다방향 불규칙파에 대한 조파 기법 및 방향 스펙트럼 추정 연구)

  • Seunghoon Oh;Sungjun Jung;Sung-Chul Hwang;Eun-Soo Kim;Hong-Gun Sung
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.60 no.4
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    • pp.266-277
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    • 2023
  • In this study, fundamental research is conducted for the generation technique and analysis of multi-directional irregular waves in the Deep Ocean Engineering Basin (DOEB). A three-dimensional boundary element method-based numerical tank is implemented to perform wave generation simulations, and directional spectrum estimation is carried out using the results of simulations. The wave generation technique of the Snake type wave maker, generating multi-directional irregular waves, is implemented using the Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) and Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT) algorithms. The wave generation technique is validated by comparing the wave spectrum from simulations and experiments. A Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) based estimation code is developed for estimating the directional wave spectra. The multi-directional irregular waves are tested in the DOEB and the numerical tank, and directional wave spectra obtained from two methodologies are estimated and compared. A correction procedure for the directional distribution of multi-directional waves is established, and the possibility of correcting the directional spreading function using the numerical tank is validated.

Evaluation of the Harbor Operation Rate Considering Long Period Waves (장주기파를 고려한 항만 가동율의 평가)

  • 김규한
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.16 no.2
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    • pp.21-26
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    • 2002
  • In this study, the characteristics of long period waves are analyzed by field observation at Sokcho harbor on the eastern coast of Korea. firstly. the pressure data obtained from field observation are transformed into water surface elevations and the wave by wave analysis is applied to the observed wave data. also, we select long period waves by setting up the range 30-200sec, and suggest the relationship between ordinary waves and long period waves using the concept of the significant wave height. and, we examine the effects oft he long period waves on the rate of the harbor operation. The observation results demonstrate that the long period waves with heights of 1.2-14.6cm and periods of 35.8-162sec exist at Sokcho harbor. also, we found the rates of harbor operation based on long period waves are 61.8%-99.5% lower than the usual rates of 93.8%-100%.

Review of Internal Waves in Ocean (해양에서의 내부파)

  • Cho, Yong-Sik;Lee, Bong-Hee;Yoon, Tae-Hoon
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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    • 2000.09a
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    • pp.113-119
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    • 2000
  • Internal waves, including all kinds of wave phenomena inside a stratified fluid system, have been a subject of interest for a long time in geophysics, coastal and ocean engineering, applied mathematics and hydrodynamics. The vast oceans on the earth are a complex stratified fluid system widely distributed with pycnoclines, which are horizontally layered regions with a large density variation, commonly located about 50-150 meters below the ocean surface. (omitted)

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A Study on the Statistical Characteristics and Numerical Hindcasts of Storm Waves in East Sea (동해 폭풍파랑의 통계적 특성과 파랑 후측모의 실험에 관한 연구)

  • Chun, Hwusub;Kang, Tae-Soon;Ahn, Kyungmo;Jeong, Weon Mu;Kim, Tae-Rim;Lee, Dong Hwan
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.81-95
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    • 2014
  • In the present study, the statistical analysis on the storm waves in the East Sea have been carried out, and the several storm waves were reproduced by the modified WAM as a first step for the accurate and prompt forecasting and warning against the swell waves in East Sea. According to the present study, the occurrences of the storm waves from the North were the most probable, while the waves from the Northeast were most frequently observed. It was found that the significant wave heights of storm waves from the North and Northern northeast were larger than those of storm waves from the Northeast. But due to long fetch distance, the significant wave periods of storm waves from the Northesast were longer than those of North and Northern northeast. In addition to the wave analysis, the numerical experiments for the storm waves in East Sea were carried out using the modified WAM, and three periods of storm waves in 2013 were calculated. The numerical results were well agreed with wave measurements. However the numerical simulation results in shallow water region showed lower accuracies compared to deep water, which might be due to lower resolution of wind field and bottom topography caused by large grid size, 5 minute, adopted in the present study. Overall computational efficiency of the modified WAM found to be excellent compared to original WAM. It is because the modified WAM adopted the implicit scheme, thereby the present model performed 10 time faster than original WAM in computation time.

Improvement of prediction methods of power increase in regular head waves using calm-water and resistance tests in waves

  • Chun, Ho-Hwan;Lee, Cheol-Min;Lee, Inwon;Choi, Jung-Eun
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.278-291
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    • 2021
  • This paper applies load variation method to predict speed-power-rpm relationship along with propulsive performances in regular head waves, and to derive overload factors (ITTC, 2018). 'Calm-water tests' and 'resistance test in waves' are used. The modified overload factors are proposed taking non-linearity into consideration, and applied to the direct powering, and resistance and thrust identity method. These indirect methods are evaluated through comparing the speed-power-rpm relationships with those obtained from the resistance and self-propulsion tests in calm water and in waves. The objective ship is KVLCC2. The load variation method predicts well the speed-power-rpm relationship and propulsion performances in waves. The direct powering method with modified overload factors also predicts well. The resistance and thrust identity method with modified overload factor predicts with a little difference. The direct powering method with overload factors predicts with a relatively larger difference.

Motion Simulation of FPSO in Waves through Numerical Sensitivity Analysis (수치 민감도 해석을 통한 파랑중 FPSO운동 시뮬레이션)

  • Kim, Je-in;Park, Il-Ryong;Suh, Sung-Bu;Kang, Yong-Duck;Hong, Sa-Young;Nam, Bo-Woo
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.32 no.3
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    • pp.166-176
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    • 2018
  • This paper presents a numerical sensitivity analysis for the simulation of the motion performance of an offshore structure in waves using computational fluid dynamics (CFD). Starting with 2D wave simulations with varying numerical parameters such as grid spacing and CFL value, proper numerical conditions were found for accurate wave propagation that avoids numerical diffusion problems. These results were mapped on 2D error distributions of wave amplitude and wave length against the numbers of grids per wave length and per wave height under a given CFL condition. Finally, the 2D numerical sensitivity result was validated through CFD simulation of the motion of a FPSO in waves showing good accuracy in motion RAOs compared with existing potential flow solutions.