• 제목/요약/키워드: Ocean Waves

검색결과 1,779건 처리시간 0.027초

Effect of Infra-Gravity Waves on Nearshore Morphodynamics in the East Coast : Case Study - Ilsan Beach (장주기 중력외파의 동해안 연안지형변화에 미치는 영향 연구 : 사례연구 - 일산해변)

  • Son, Donghwi;Yoo, Jeseon;Shin, Hyunhwa
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • 제40권2호
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    • pp.87-98
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    • 2018
  • It is widely known that infragravity waves can exert significant influence on wave run-up over beaches. Large run-ups can lead to overwash, flooding and severe coastal erosion. In spite of the importance of infragravity waves in relation to wave run-up and coastal erosion, few studies have been carried out with regard to the impact of infragravity waves on nearshore morphodynamics with respect to eastern beaches in Korea. The purpose of this study is to investigate the importance of infragravity waves in nearshore numerical modelling. For the study, XBeach model was set up to analyze morphodynamics in December 2016, in Ilsan beach which is located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan Metropolitan City. After validation of the XBeach model, numerical experiments were conducted by using various directional spreading coefficients. As the directional spreading coefficients are increased, the effect of infragravity waves is also enhanced by narrowband frequency. With the increasing effect of infragravity waves, the amount of sediment transport is also increased and an erosion dominant pattern is found in the south part of Ilsan beach and a deposition pattern in the north part of the beach mainly due to the wave incident direction of NNE.

A Study of the Appearance Characteristics and Generation Mechanism of Giant Waves (대양에서의 거대파랑 출현 특성과 발생 기구에 관한 연구)

  • Shin Seung-Ho;Hong Key-Yong
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • 제30권3호
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    • pp.181-187
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    • 2006
  • In the wave spectrum distribution based on linear wave theory, the appearance of a giant wave whose wave height reaches to 30m has been considered next to almost impossible in a real sea However since more than 10 giant waves were observed in a recent investigation of global wave distribution which was carried out by the analysis of SAR imagines for three weeks, the existence of the giant waves is being recognized and it is considered the cause of many unknown marine disasters. The change of wave height distribution concerning a formation of wave train, nonlinear wave to wave interaction and so on were raised as the causes of the appearance of the giant waves, but the occurrence mechanism of the giant waves hasn't been cleared yet. In present study, we investigated appearance circumstances of the giant waves in real sea and its occurrence mechanism was analyzed based on linear and nonlinear wave focusing theories. Also, through a development of numerical model of the nonlinear $schr\"{o}dinger$ equation, the formations of the giant wave from progressive wave train were reproduced.

An Overview of Marine Renewable Energy (해양 신재생에너지의 고찰)

  • Kim, Young C.
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • 제25권6호
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    • pp.433-438
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    • 2013
  • With the prospect of an increasing shortage of energy resources, there has been a growing interest in renewable alternative sources of energy. An increasing effort is being directed towards resolving the problems of extracting energy from the world's oceans, as they represent a vast potential source of renewable energy. This paper summarizes the extraction and conversion techniques of the ocean's energy resources, namely, energy derived from the ocean waves, tides, thermal gradients, and currents. For each energy extraction and conversion technique, case studies are discussed.

Second-order Motion Characteristics of a Semi-submersible Platform in Waves

  • Hong, Sa-Young;Nam, Bo-Woo;Kim, Jin-Ha;Kim, Young-Shik;Hong, Seok-Won;Kim, Young-Soo
    • International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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    • 제1권3호
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    • pp.155-164
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    • 2011
  • The second-order motion characteristics of a semi-submersible are investigated in regular waves. A higher-order boundary element method in a frequency domain and a finite element method in a time-domain were applied to the numerical analysis of the nonlinear hydrodynamic force and motion characteristics of semi-submersibles in view point of potential flow. Various aspects of nonlinear effects on the heave and roll of a semi-submersible were numerically investigated and some selected cases were compared with the model test data.

On the Feasibility of Freak Waves Formation within the Harbor Due to the Presence of Infra-Gravity Waves of Bound Mode Underlying the Ever-Present Swells (Bound Mode의 외중력파에 의한 항내 이상파 생성가능성에 대하여)

  • Cho, Yong Jun;Bae, Jung Hyun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • 제31권1호
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    • pp.17-27
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    • 2019
  • We carry out the numerical simulation to test a hypothesis that freak waves can be triggered by the infragravity waves of bound mode underlying the ever-present swells and its constructive interaction with swells using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam, and Bi-spectrum. Numerical simulation is implemented for the SamChcuk LNG Plant where freak waves have been reported in front of the private wharf during its construction phase due to the uncompleted northern breakwater. Infra-gravity waves of bound mode is generated using the difference wave-wave interaction between the local wind waves of 7 s and a swell of 11.4 s based on the Bi-spectrum. For the sake of comparison, numerical simulation for infra-gravity waves of free mode is also carried out. Numerical results show that stem waves along the private wharf for SamChcuk LNG Plant can be triggered by the infra-gravity waves of bound mode coming from the north, which eventually leads to freak waves when encounters the reflected waves from the south jetty.

Numerical modeling of internal waves within a coupled analysis framework and their influence on spar platforms

  • Kurup, Nishu V.;Shi, Shan;Jiang, Lei;Kim, M.H.
    • Ocean Systems Engineering
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    • 제5권4호
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    • pp.261-277
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    • 2015
  • Internal solitary waves occur due to density stratification and are nonlinear in nature. These waves have been observed in many parts of the world including the South China Sea, Andaman Sea and Sulu Sea. Their effect on floating systems has been an emerging field of interest and recent offshore developments in the South China Sea where several offshore oil and gas discoveries are located have confirmed adverse effects including large platform motions and riser system damage. A valid numerical model conforming to the physics of internal waves is implemented in this paper and the effect on a spar platform is studied. The physics of internal waves is modeled by the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation, which has a general solution involving Jacobian elliptical functions. The effects of vertical density stratification are captured by solving the Taylor Goldstein equation. Fully coupled time domain analyses are conducted to estimate the effect of internal waves on a typical truss spar, which is configured to South China Sea development requirements and environmental conditions. The hull, moorings and risers are considered as an integrated system and the platform global motions are analyzed. The study could be useful for future guidance and development of offshore systems in the South China Sea and other areas where the internal wave phenomenon is prominent.

A Nonlinear Response Analysis of Tension Leg Platforms in Irregular Waves (불규칙파중의 인장계류식 해양구조물의 비선형 응답 해석)

  • Lee, Chang-Ho;Gu, Ja-Sam;Jo, Hyo-Je;Hong, Bong-Gi
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • 제12권2호통권28호
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    • pp.33-42
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    • 1998
  • In the presence of incident waves with different frequencies, the second order sum and difference frequency waves due to the nonlinearity of the incident waves come into existence. Although the magnitudes of the forces produced on a Tension Leg Platform(TLP) by these nonlinear waves are small, they act on the TLP at sum and difference frequencies away from those of the incident waves. So, the second order sum and difference frequency wave loads produced close to the natural frequencies of TLPs often give greater contributions to high and low frequency resonant responses. The second order wave exciting forces and moments have been obtained by the method based on direct integration of pressure acting on the submerged surface of a TLP. The components of the second order forces which depend on first order quantities have been evaluated using the three dimensional source distribution method. The numerical results of time domain analysis for the nonlinear wave exciting forces in regular waves are compared with the numerical ones of frequency domain analysis. The results of comparison confirmed the validity of the proposed approach.

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Observation of Abnormal Waves from South in Winter (겨울철에 발생한 이상 남파 관측)

  • 김태림;전기천;박광순;김상익
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • 제12권1호
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    • pp.11-18
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    • 2000
  • On the 25th of November in 1997 winter season, unprecedented high waves were recorded at the southern part of Korea Peninsular. The significant wave heights over 4 m were recorded at Marado, Pusan and Ulrungdo successively with time lags. Seoguipo breakwaters which were under construction were damaged by the unexpected high waves. These unprecedented southerly high waves in winter seem to be caused by unusual development and traveling of low pressure. Weather charts and wave fields calculated by a numerical model were analyzed to examine the unusual development of these waves. Protection against the southerly high waves in winter must be considered in coastal constructions and structures.

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Analysis of Wave Fields over Submerged Breakwaters (잠제 주변의 파랑장 해석)

    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • 제11권2호
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    • pp.95-106
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    • 1999
  • A numerical model is represented to calculate the wave fields such as the reflected waves, the transmitted waves and the depth-averaged velocities over submerged breakwaters for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear mono-chromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results and the measured data. It is found that the submerged breakwater may be more useful for protecting the energies of monochromatic waves rather than solitary waves. Finally, the armor stability on submerged breakwater is indirectly analyzed using the hydrodynamic characteristics of flow fields.

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Analysis of added resistance and seakeeping responses in head sea conditions for low-speed full ships using URANS approach

  • Kim, Yoo-Chul;Kim, Kwang-Soo;Kim, Jin;Kim, Yoonsik;Park, Il-Ryong;Jang, Young-Hun
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • 제9권6호
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    • pp.641-654
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    • 2017
  • The KVLCC2 and its modified hull form were investigated in regular head waves using Unsteady Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (URANS) methods. The modified KVLCC2 (named KWP-bow KVLCC2) is designed for reducing wave reflection from the bow. Firstly, the original KVLCC2 is studied for verification of the present code and methodology and the computed time history of total resistance and 2DOF motions (heave and pitch) for the selected two wave length conditions are directly compared with the results obtained from KRISO towing tank experiment under the identical condition. The predicted added resistance, heave and pitch motion RAOs show relatively good agreement with the experimental results. Secondly, the comparison of performance in waves between KVLCC2 and KWP-bow KVLCC2 is carried out. We confirmed that newly designed hull form shows better performances in all the range of wave length conditions through both the computation and the experiment. The present URANS method can capture the difference of performance in waves of the two hull forms without any special treatment for short wave length conditions. It can be identified that KWP-bow KVLCC2 gives about 8% of energy saving in sea state 5 condition.