• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.294-302
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• 2003

Unstable cosmetic active ingredients could be degraded rapidly by chemical and photochemical process. Particularly, some of active ingredients like retinol are known to cause skin irritation when applied on the skin excessively. Therefore, it has become a very important issue to encapsulate cosmetic actives for the stabilization and skin protection. This study was performed in order to prepare a chitosan microcapsule containing liposoluble cosmetic actives and to investigate the stabilization effect of actives when chitosan microcapsule was applied in cosmetic formulation. Chitosan, deacetylated form of chitin, has been of interest in the industrial applications due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, non-toxicity, antimicrobial activity and also used as a wall material of capsule. Retinol was used as a core material and was stabilized by a wall of chitosan and antioxidants. The chitosan microcapsule containing retinol(CMR) was prepared by using coacervation method and W$_1$/O/W$_2$ emulsification techniques. The CMR has 0.5~10.0 ${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$ size distribution and a long-term stability of more than an year inside the cosmetic formulation(O/W). Remaining retinol percentages at 45$^{\circ}C$ after 8 weeks in the CMR dispersion were 15.6%(pH 4.0), 59.8%(pH 6.0) and 65.0%(pH 6.0 with antioxidant) respectively. Retinol stability when added CMR inside a ONV emulsion was better than that of ONV emulsion added non-capsulated retinol. As a result, remaining retinol at 45$^{\circ}C$ after 8 weeks in O/W emulsion added non-capsulated retinol and O/W emulsion containing CMR was 12.7%, 70.5% respectively. It appeared that chitosan treated microcapsule may be used for a potential encapsulation method of unstable active ingredients.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.219-225
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• 2007

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltrizine (BEMT) is one of the most widely used chemical UVA+UVB double absorbers in sunscreen products. But topical application of BEMT is restricted due to its defects in product. The purpose of this study is to adopt the sunscreen product of solid lipid nano-particles containing BEMT (BEMT-SLN). The particle diameters, the encapsulation efficiencies and the crystallization index (C.I.) are about 330nm, 93.3 % and the 4.3 %. As a result, in vitro penetration and release of BEMT were generally higher in O/W emulsion than the SLN formulation. However in vivo study, it was shown that the rate of release could be decreased by 80 % in the SLN formulation. The sun protection factor (SPF) of the SLN formulation increased by 100 % in the in vitro UV protection test. Therefore, SLN formulation potentiated the UV-blocking power of BEMT. This study suggest that SLN can be used for the encapsulation of BEMT.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.392-404
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• 2003

A new technology to achieve o/w microemulsions allows the formulation of transparent products with low surfactant content. The PIT Nanotechnology approach gives cosmetic/pharmaceutical o/w microemulsions in one step with a broad variety of surfactants, cosurfactants and oil phases.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.922-930
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• 2021

This study was attempted to investigate the availability of nipa palm (Nypa fruticans Wurmb.) and finger root (Boesenbergia pandurata) extracts as natural cosmetic ingredients. For this, O/W cosmetic formulations with different compositions were prepared. The appearance of the cosmetic formulations was compared, and brightness and color values were measured using a colorimeter. Also, the pH, viscosity, and texture of the cosmetic formulations with different compositions were measured, and the effects of the extracts on the properties of the cosmetic formulations were examined. Finally, the UV transmittance and sun protection factor (SPF) index were observed, and the results confirmed the availability of finger root extract as a natural ingredient for UV protection.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.108-126
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• 1993

The functions of polyoxyethylene tocopheryl ethers [POE(n)TEs] in emulsion, solubilization and gel were studied. For emulsification of liquid paraffin, POE(10)TE showed better emulsifying effect in O/W emulsions than others tested. The effects of oil and polyol content on the formulation of W/O and O/W emulsions were also studied. In O/W emulsion, the viscosity was increased by increasing the liquid paraffin content, at about 70%, and slightly increased by increasing the propylene glycol content, However, in W/O emulsion, the viscosity was decreased by increasing the oil content, and also decreased by increasing the propylene glycol content, For solubilization of perfume oil, POE(18)TE showed better solubilizing effect than the others tested. The gelling effect of POE(n)TEs increased with ethylene oxide chain length up to 50 moles. The gelling property was evaluated for hardness and viscosity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.201-210
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• 2018

In this study, we formulated oil-in-water emulsion composition for skin care products containing jadeite powder which is well known as far-infrared radiating material. Jadeite powder could sustain stable dispersion in aqueous solvents over a month and this helped mixing it high content in oil-in-water emulsion formulation. To identify the effect of jadeite as a far-infrared radiator materials relating to the skin surface temperature change, we applied emulsion formulation containing 2 weight percent jadeite powder onto facial skin surface and blank formulation together and analyzed surface temperature with thermo-vision. Our results showed that the temperature difference between jadeite powder formulation applied region and blank formulation reached to 1.5 ~ 2.0 degree Celsius. We also performed same test with nephrite powder and titanium dioxide powder but only jadeite powder containing formulation showed significant skin temperature change. To elucidate main cause of heat energy transfer, we tested heat radiation, energy dispersive spectrometer analysis and measured far infrared radiance emissivity, diffuse reflectance spectra and water evaporation rate. We found out jadeite powder could retard water evaporation effectively from the skin surface and resist temperature drop down. This is because of the innate chemical composition and surface structure of jadeite, which can bind with water molecules to form hydrogen bonds. It is concluded that we can develop novel skin care products for moisturizing and thermos with jadeite powder.

• Korea Journal of Cosmetic Science
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.19-29
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• 2019

In this work, we fabricated liquid crystal (LC) emulsions with fatty alcohol in order to stabilize high content ceramide in cosmetic formulation. We investigated the role of fatty alcohol and surfactant in the formation of higher order structure. As a result, we found that they play a crucial role to form higher order structure. SAXS study shows that ceramide can be incorporated up to 3% in cosmetic formulation with higher order structure and its stability was maintained up to 12 weeks at room temperature. According to WAXS study, the higher order structure can suppress the re-crystallization of ceramide in cosmetic formulation. Finally, we performed in vivo skin barrier recovery test for the damaged skin. LC emulsions with ceramide and O/W emulsions show significant effect in skin barrier recovery at D 1, D 2 and D 6 compared to the untreated condition. While only LC emulsions show significant skin recovery effect at D 14. We expect that LC emulsions are the promising skin carrier to stabilize ceramide and LC emulsions with ceramide can improve the skin barrier function.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.47-54
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• 2013

Aloe gel microcapsule was prepared by dehydrating dispersed aloe gel droplets in the form of W/O emulsion using a vacuum evaporator. The microcapsules remained in stable suspensions after washing with mineral oil and had a homogeneous spherical structure with diameter less than 6.4 ${\mu}m$. The microcapsule suspension in mineral oil (> 41%) exhibited a step increase in viscosity and shear-thinning but not showed thixotropic behavior with a yield stress higher than 300 Pa. The dense suspension appeared to be semi-solid as the microcapsule fraction increases and to be stable after heat treatment at $105^{\circ}C$ for 15 min. In conclusion, the dense suspension composed of gel microcapsules is expected to provide a basic cosmetic formulation that can be applied to develop various types of aloe gel cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.315-324
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• 2015

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsion composed of amphiphilic substance $C_{14-22}$ alcohol, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and studied liquid crystal emulsion of properties and in vitro skin permeation. The results of formulation experiments, the clear liquid crystalline structure was observed in the ratio of $C_{14-22}$ alcohol 0.8%, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside 3.2%, behenyl alcohol 4% in the formulation. The results of physical property measurements, the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion and O/W emulsion applied as a control group was respectively $1871.26{\sim}1.15Pa{\cdot}s$, $1768.69{\sim}1.14Pa{\cdot}s$ and the shear stress of O/W emulsion was 178.68 ~ 909.18 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 190.45 ~ 919.38 Pa. The storage modulus of O/W emulsion was 3428.53 ~ 9157.45 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 4487.82 ~ 8195.59 Pa. The tan (delta) value of O/W emulsion which means a ratio of viscosity to elasticity was 0.43 ~ 0.19, and that of liquid crystal emulsion was 0.23 ~ 0.25. The water content value on the skin for liquid crystal emulsion was significantly higher from 1 h to 6 h compared with that of O/W emulsion and the transepidermal water loss on the skin was significantly superior in skin moisture loss suppression from 30 min to 4 h compared with that of O/W emulsion. The results of skin permeation using glycyrrhizic acid, the result of skin permeation amount of liquid crystal emulsion for 24 h was $64.58{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of O/W emulsion was $37.07{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of butylene glycol solution was $41.05{\mu}g/cm^2$. Hourly permeability results, it is showed that skin penetration effect of the liquid crystal emulsion increases after 8 h. These results suggest that liquid crystal emulsions are effective for skin moisturizing effect and function as potential efficacy ingredient delivery system for the transdermal delivery.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.219-238
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• 2003

Indole-3-acetic acid (IAA) molecule has been successfully encapsulated in biocompatible inorganic matrix in order for the cosmetic application such as superfacial fine line reduction. The encapsulation was realized through chemical reaction involving simultaneous formation of inorganic lattice and 1M giving rise to an 1M-inorganic nanohybrid (IAA-brid) which shows excellent storage stability and sustained releasing property of indole-3-acetic acid. The clinical efficacy of essence cream containing IAA-brid as anti-wrinkle formulation was also carefully evaluated by measuring the roughness of the skin replica before and after treatment. Upon administration of the cream on the eye-area, the fine-line is drastically reduced.