• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 1990

Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.103-112
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• 2000

Early efforts to model wave transformation from offshore to inshore were based on the ray theory which accounts for wave refraction due to changes in bathymetry and the diffraction effects were ignored. Prediction of nearshore waves with the combined effects of refraction and diffraction as well as reflection has taken a new dimension with the use of the mild-slope equation and the Boussinesq equation. (omitted)

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.5 s.54
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• pp.25-31
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• 2003

Numerical experiments have been conducted using the nonlinear combined refraction-diffraction model, in order to analyze the generation characteristics of stem wave, which is formed by the interaction between vertical structure and the oblique incident waves. The results of stem wave are discussed through the stem wave height distribution along/normal vertical structure, under the wide range of incident wave conditions-wave heights, periods, depths, and angles. Under the same wave height and period, the larger the incident wave angle, the higher the stem wave heights. According to the results of wave height distribution, in front of vertical structure, the maximum of stern wave heights occurs in the location bordering the vertical wall. Furthermore, the most significant result is that stem waves occur under the incident angles between $0^{\circ}\;and\;30^{\circ}$, and the stem wave height ratio has the maximum value, which is approximately 1.85 times the incident wave height when the incident wave angle becomes $23^{\circ}$.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.138-143
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• 2001

Based on mild slope equation and parabolic approximation the forward diffraction of monochromatic waves by a straight breakwater are studied numerically. The characteristics and effects of stem wave along breakwater and the relations between the stem wave and incident wave angle are discussed.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.295-304
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• 2012

This study proposed a two-dimensional horizontal numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water wave equations to simulate tsunami propagation and coastal inundation. We numerically investigated the possible impacts of tsunami caused by the triple interlocked Tokai, Tonankai and Nankai Earthquakes on the Jeju coastal areas, using the proposed model. The simultaneous Tokai, Tonankai and Nankai Earthquakes were created a virtual tsunami model of an M9.0 earthquake. In numerical analysis, a grid nesting method for the local grid refinement in shallow coastal regions was employed to sufficiently reproduce the shoaling effects. The numerical model was carefully validated through comparisons with the data collected during the tsunami events by 2011 East Japan Earthquake and 1983 central East Sea Earthquake (Nihonkai Chubu Earthquake). Tsunami propagation triggered by the combined Tokai, Tonanakai and Nankai, Earthquakes was simulated for 10 hours to sufficiently consider the effects of tsunami in the coastal areas of Jeju Island. The numerical results revealed that water level fluctuation in tsunami propagation is greatly influenced by water-depth change, refraction, diffraction and reflection. In addition, the maximum tsunami height numerically estimated in the coastal areas of Jeju Island was about 1.6 m at Sagye port.