• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.43-55
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to investigate the slacks pattern making on the movement-fitness of the knee region. The experimental items were divided into the lower limb movement (M1~M5) and slacks pattern designs (4 : basic pattern, in-pleats, side-pleats, seam-line increase). This study was done by clothing pressure test, sensory evaluation test and the difference shape-transformation of wearing-slacks. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows ; First, the clothing pressure test showed that the order of clothing pressure in the movement was the rabbit leap movement (M3), the sit on knees (M4), the nobleman sitting (M5), the sit on chair (M2) from the highest to the lowest. In the comparison of clothing pressure tested by blocks of lower-limb, center front knee region shows the highest of 300g/cm2. In it by constructional methods, the clothing pressure of in-pleats, side-pleats methods shows lower than basic pattern, hem-line increase methods. Also in comparison of the two methods, in-pleats method shows lower than side-pleats method. Second, by the sensory evaluation test based on the lower-limb movements and constructional methods of slacks, it was found that the functional factor score of the rabbit leap movement was also the waist, hip, knee region was the lowest in all blocks. And in the comparison of constructional methods, in-pleats method was the highest in all methods. Third, in consideration of the difference in the shape-transformation of wearing-slacks on the movement-fitness, pleats pattern design methods showed that the ratio of shape-transformation was lower than basic on seam-line increase methods. But the difference of the side-pleats and in-pleats methods was litle. According to these investigation, the slacks pattern making caused by movement-fitness on the knee region, in-pleats design method was the functional slacks pattern.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.19
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• pp.61-86
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• 2009

Jainpalkwangdae(慈仁八廣大) of Kyungsan area in Kyungbuk province was restored through over 50 years gap. This play basically has the structure of conflict - reconcillation, which is differentiated from a masque and a tightrope walking. The characters of this play are a nobleman, Malttuki (a servant), a legal wife and a second wife. Their personality is deviant from a existing Korean masque. This weird and artificial appearance may be a problem in the process of restoration. Otherwise, it might be a very different transmission type of masque. Therefore, we need to investigate why Jainpalkwangdae is different from a traditional masque.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.69-81
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• 2014

Herman $F{\ddot{u}}rst\;P{\ddot{u}}ckler-Muskau$ is one of important figures in German landscape architecture who designed both Muskau Park and Branitz Park and published garden book Andeutungen ${\ddot{u}}ber$ Landschaftgartenerei (Hints on Landscape Gardening) in 1834. He was a German nobleman who governed Muskau estates while working as both a writer and a landscape gardener. German landscape gardening was grounded on Romanticism, which was represented in diverse ways such as the reconciliation between man and nature, the liberation of reason, and the pursuit of liberty. The intellectuals came to have an interest on landscape gardening since the garden carried the cultural connotation such as the idealized epitome of nature. This study is to investigate how his idea of landscape gardening had been developed through his personal life and social background and to find out his landscape gardening theory and its unique gardening techniques. Finally, the inventive aspect of his garden theory and contemporary significances in practices were discussed. $P{\ddot{u}}cklers^{\prime}$ personal experience and social background provide us to understand the idea of garden. First, there was a mixture between reality and fantasy in his garden theory. It was due to the influence of Romanticism and literary garden. Second, his gardening mentality and technique were influenced by the late 18th century English garden practices, which emphasized the expressive aspects. Third, $P{\ddot{u}}cklers^{\prime}$ inner disposition and personal experience were represented in his garden design. Fourth, the intention of creating landscape garden for the local people might be a self realization of his contradictory characters between falling nobleman and liberal social leader. The significant value of $P{\ddot{u}}ckler^{\prime}s$ garden idea might be closely related in the dual nature of humanistic garden tradition and garden practice for social agenda. Therefore, his garden idea pursued of the comprehensive landscape strategies toward ideal communities and ethical spirits while concerning ecological, social, economic sustainable development of the region. Furthermore, his landscape gardening aims at the total landscape encompassing garden to region as well as the Gesamtkunst combing the beautiful with the useful. $P{\ddot{u}}ckler^{\prime}s$ holistic attitude gives us fresh insights and new directions to contemporary landscape theory and practice.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.15-33
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• 2011

The late $19^{th}$ and early $20^{th}$ centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (牲理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as "the force which drives people into a particular social order". Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state. Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the notion of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans' passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives' Hanbok (韓服) and progressives' Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by "Colored Clothing" (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷髮) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a "Modern Nation". With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910, and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced. During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly "White Clothing (白衣)", emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due to Japan's coercive power and strong zeal for "Great orient (大東亞)", white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformists (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger. Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were different although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.

• Journal of Astronomy and Space Sciences
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.589-602
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• 2009

We investigated 'Song of the Sky Pacers, Adopted to the New Methods'(新法步天歌), the latest version of Joseon's 'Song of the Sky Pacers'(步天歌). Due to the influence of new knowledge on Chinese asterisms imported from the Ching dynasty, 'Song of the Sky Pacers with New Star-Charts' was written in the eighteenth century. However, the disagreement between song and star-charts was causing confusion in practical applications such as Joseon's national examination for selecting astronomers. In order to improve this situation, Royal Observatory of the Joseon dynasty (觀象監) published 'Song of the Sky Pacers, Adopted to the New Methods' based upon star-charts and song in the Sequel of I-Hsiang-K'ao-ch'eng (欽定儀象考成續編). The New Song was edited by a middle-class professional astronomer Yi Jun-yang (李俊養), and corrected by a nobleman Nam Byeong-gil (南秉吉). We establish a brief biography of Yi Jun-yang. The New Song preserves the genuine characteristics of previous Joseon's Song including the format of title of each lunar mansion and description on the location of the Milky Way in the asterisms. The description of the Milky Way was newly written based on the data in volume 31 and 32 of the Sequel of I-Hsiang-K'ao-ch'eng.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.57
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• pp.67-102
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• 2014

Yeoheon is a representative recluse and philosopher in the 17th Joseon dynasty. His contemporary intellectuals considered him as a sincere nobleman, Confucius in the Joseon, and moreover a saint, a cornerstone of culture, and a model for Confucianists. As a politician, he was regarded as practicing the stabilization of the people's livelihood and education, which are the key ideas of Confucian politics, when he serviced as a local governmental office twice. In addition, his ruler thought that he was right, wise, and modest, and therefore had the dignity of the old sage. His subordinates considered that he possessed the way of the old great ministers and the eye to see the current state of affairs. His theory of the Yijing is based on Cheng-Zhou learning, but developed their interpretation of the text. In addition, he discussed that Confucianism is a practical learning. His theory of the ritual was considered to follow Zhu Xi's works, but refer the old rituals and overcome the aspect of minor customs. His contemporary scholars thought that his theory of Neo-Confucianism revealed the essence of Li-Four and Qi-Seven theory regardless of scholarly parties, which were formed after Toegye and Yulgok. However, he proposed the Li-longitude and Qi-latitude theory in order to restore the real values, but it is similar to Yulgok's theory, which was criticized by the schools of Toegye and South Faction near Seoul. However, his theories revealed the fact that Joseon Confucianism cannot be simply differentiated as two major theories of "Centering on Li" and "Centering on Qi. In addition, his ideas of the universe and concern for the old showed that Joseon Confucianism is not just a theory, but is related to our lives and therefore practical in its nature.

• 지역과문화
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.23-48
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• 2020

Hahoebyeolsingut Talnori, which is under permanent performance, has lost its relevance to folklore and rituals of the villagers and has secured the possibility of change depending on the actor's choice. This article seeks to expand the current stuck performance of Hahoe mask play, which has great significance as a play and play for the audience. To this end, We studied the possibility of expanding the performance of Hahoe Talnori by trans-identity of the Choragi. Chorangi character derides yangban, seonbi and monk, who are representatives of the establishment. Those who have a consciousness of potential transformation, those who passively represent the masses, and those who are tacitly authorized by the audience to ridicule the ruling class. The audience feels exhilarated by the super-cool, but at the same time reduces the limits. We transformed Chorangi who is clever but cannot overcome the limits of his status, into a character with a sense of transformation by applying the method of turnning identity and changing identity of the theory of trans-identity. And I applied the method of expansion of the media conversion storytelling theory to create a new Chorangi Madang that conforms to the audience's needs and the spirit of the times. In addition to the performance of Yangban Seonbi Madang(Act of Nobleman and Scholar) which ends with an ambiguous reconciliation, we wanted to complete it in a way that even today's audiences could accept by applying the function of the Hahoebyeolsingut Talnori ambassador and the principle of implementation. And We writed it in a script. This article is meant to be an experimental study that attempted to transform traditional performing arts in the context of new creation of tradition. Preservation and transmission of traditional performing arts are important, but it is necessary to move forward according to the trend and spirit of the times.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.76-93
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• 2017

This thesis recapitulates the current status of Nujeongs(樓亭) by the Han River(漢江) from the late Joseon dynasty, and to contemplate the possible options regarding their restoration. The book Yeon-gang-jeong-sa-gi(沿江亭?記) written by Eom Gyeong-su(嚴慶遂) in 1716 was selected as an object of study. After Hanyang was selected to be the capital of Joseon, Han River was considered to be the greatest venue to visit to take some time off and enjoy the view. The nobleman of the Joseon dynasty built Nujeongs around the riverside and enjoyed boating inthe current status of Nujeongs(樓亭) Han River. Eom Gyeong-su, after traveling on a boat to personally collect information, combined such information with preexisting information to create a well-organized and thorough list of the 29 Nujeongs built by the riverbank, which can be found in his book Yeon-gang-jeong-sa-gi. It is probable that a closer look into Yeon-gang-jeong-sa-gi will reveal more information regarding the general atmosphere of the era, which focused on the history and culture of Han River, and will also enable a more thorough research involving the Han River Nujeongs. The Nujeongs listed in Yeon-gang-jeong-sa-gi were analyzed in this paper. Based on the explanations found in Yeon-gang-jeong-sa-gi, the locations of the 29 Nujeongs were checked and reconfirmed, and the origins and the meanings behind their names were analyzed. In addition, the history of the Nujeongs were recapitulated with information gained from the basis of the fact that Yeon-gang-jeong-sa-gi was written in 1716, The origin of each Nujeongs were revisited, and the history of their change and demise were analyzed. Lastly, the sceneries around each Nujeongs were analyzed based on the poetries that were written and read in the respective Nujeongs, and the general taste for the arts in the era was analyzed. Some Nujeongs remain in the form of paintings, enabling us to take a closer look at the institutions and other aspects of the era. The analysis of Yeon-gang-jeong-sa-gi by this paper has revealed the location of some Han River Nujeongs that were unknown previously. Also, the revelation of some history regarding certain Nujeongs that were unknown previously has created an opportunity for the reinterpretation of the spaces surrounding Han River, and also the opportunity for a new story. Han River has lost most of its old self due to repeated exploitation. However, there are some areas where traces of the original form remains and that may be restored, and some areas may be relocated and restored based on existing paintings. Yeon-gang-jeong-sa-gi in particular may provide us with numerous possible options to reinvigorate and restructure the riverside with a more modern interpretation, especially in relation to the Han River cruise ship, as it is a book written after traveling Han River on a boat.

• Archives of design research
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.43-62
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• 1989

The luxury is the expression of human being's ornament instinct. In this study, in order to grasp the moulding system of the Korean's personal ornaments, the process of luxury prohibition was reviewed to search for to which direction the ornaments developed in the frame of the prohibited style connected closely to the character of the personal ornaments. The proiod was fixed from the old society to the late Chosun dynasty era. The beginning of the luxury in Korea seems to be the start of the luxury burial at the time of funeral in the age of Koguryo., In the era of Koguryo, 10th year of King Dongmyung (B. C. 28), in the era of Baekje, 27th year of King Koi(260), the prohibition of dress regulation and the style of dress were conducted. The prohibition of personal ornaments in Silla was started from King Bup:Heung, and in the 9th year of King Heung-Duk, the prohibition was conducted in order to correct the luxury of the nobles and set up the social discipline. In the 11 th of King Il-Sung-Ni-Sa-Kum, the use of gold, silver and jade was prohibited in the civilian circles. The prohibition of Silla was succeeded to Koryo era, and in the 7th year of King Kwangjong(956), the system of Baekgwan Gongbok(uniform for government officials) was set up, and the system of Sasek Gongbok(four color official uniform) was set up in the 11 th year of the same King, and the prohibition of the personal ornaments such as crown and band is considred to have been conducted. The prohibition of gold and silver was conducted in the first year of King Sungjong(982), and in the 4th year of King Chungryul(l260), the order of wearing the dress and hat in accordance with the Yusan dynasty and the Mongolian customs were widely circulated in the royal court and vivilian circles. The strong influence of Mongolia made the taste of the traditional personal ornaments laste. The personal ornaments were used for the nobles until the age of the Unified Sillar but even the common people could use them in case they were rich, and such a circumstances made the use of foreign goods inflated. The prohibition of Koryo era was aimed at the prohibition of the foreign goods of luxury, and the classification of the social status.In the age of Chosun Dynasty, the production of gold and silver was feeble indeed but the oute reason of the prohibition was to eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of thrift, and moreover, the gold, silver and jade were no the products of Korea and the prohibition was conducted but the true reason was afor the tribute tt China and the classification of status. The prohibition of Chosun dynasty was conducted first in the June of the 3rd year of King Taejo The major contents of prohibition was no use of gold, silver and jade, coral, agate, amber, etc. of th, wives of the Dang-Sang-Kwan (Court Nobleman) or their sons and daughters, and the same pheno menon was common even at the time of marriage. The people engaged in the secret trade there of wert beheaded. The personal ornaments in the prohibition were the pendent trinket, Binyo (crossbar) ceremonial ornamental hat, ring, earring, ornamental knife, hat string, hat ornament, belt, etc. Thl luxurious marriage expenses out of the luxury was severe, and lose of the marriageable age because 0 non-preparing the marriage goods was the national evil. The prohibition oC luxury was hard to bt kept to the nobles or rich people, the same as old days and present days. The prohibition of th{ luxury and personal ornaments of Korea had nothing to do with the commons, and it was limited tc the nobles and rich people. The prohibition was aimed to cultivating the custom of frugality by eradicating the luxurious atmosphere, but it was chiefly due to the tribute to the China and tht discrimination of the. status. We can say that the recent personal ornament was the flower of handi craft industry bloomed in the prohibition and regulation.

• Journal of Korean Classical Literature and Education
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• no.33
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• pp.153-184
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• 2016

This study investigates the funeral rituals practiced by the Joseon Dynasty as recorded about Lee Mun Geon (1494~1567, a.k.a Mukjae), who mourned by the grave of his deceased mother, Ms. Shin (1463~1535), a woman whose family's origin was Goryeon. The study focuse on the rituals performed by Lee after his mother's death, his participation in the funeral, and his mourning specifically as an individual who has lost his parent. Reviewing Lee's mourning life beside the grave, the contents of diary belonging to a nobleman in the middle of Joseon Dynasty were studied aimsing to find out the meaning of rituals, the overall recognition accorded to death, and the filial duties that were carried out by the noblemen of the time. Although noblemen in the middle of Joseon Dynasty ceaselessly attempted to change the observance of funeral rituals through legislation, it was difficult to change the mindset of the people, who fllowed the deep-rooted traditions of long history. It must be acknowledged that the Joseon Dynasty had a different cultural background than that of China. There was a fundamental problem when they tried to adapt The Family Rituals of Zhu Xi, followed by the Chinese, to the Joseon society. Although The Family Rituals of Zhu Xi emphasized ancestral rites focusing on enshrining mortuary tablets and the importance of establishing the family shrine hundred times, noblemen in the mid-Joseon Dynasty period cared for their parents in the grave by mourning for them than by following such practice. The solemn memorial service held in front of the grave, and the annual ritual service on the death anniversary were far more important to the noblemen in the mid-Joseon Dynasty. Amid such contradictions, the noblemen accepted and performed the mourning rituals beside the grave of their parent. Human beings across the ages have always dwelt upon thoughts of the afterlife. Most people believe that they attain a state after the death of their physicalbody. If humans did not have such thoughts, they would not be bothered if death occurs on being hit by a car on the street. Thus, human beings often think of the ritual services related to death, although in different forms. Therefore, mourning by the grave of their parent held great significance among the noblemen of the Joseon Dynasty as a sign of their filial piety.