• Title/Summary/Keyword: New designer

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An Iconological Analysis of the Fashion Works of Vivienne Westwood (도상해석학 관점에서 고찰한 Vivienne Westwood 패션 작품)

  • Yun, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.1
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    • pp.60-76
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to present the viewpoint on the 'clothes' as a part of art works which has the kunstwollen(artistic will) and the philosophy of a creator rather than just an outfit. For the literary research, this study investigates the history of Iconology and the E. Panofsky's theory. In order to make up for the limitation of Panofsky's iconology, applies the theories of H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood is selected because her fashion works have been mentioned as the artistic pieces by many fashion critics or the presses. Also Westwood has different social and cultural contexts which based on the periodic background, social influences and cultural actualities. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, in order to read the symbolic meaning, the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness of the fashion designer's works properly, the systematized interpretation method is necessary. Second, the creative works of Vivienne Westwood have been influenced by the various external elements. Especially her national background and identity are the main elements which have governed her creation. Third, Vivienne Westwood creates her works not just to wear but to incorporate the ideology and the philosophy of herself. She expresses the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness through her works. Forth, Vivienne Westwood pursues the communication between the human being and the world. Fifth, fashion makes various attempts to combine with different artistic fields. The 21st century fashion has developed to new direction with diverse trials and combinations. Fashion is not just making clothes, but accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

Optimal Design of a Fine Actuator for Optical Pick-up (광픽업 미세구동부의 최적설계)

  • Lee, Moon-G;Gweon, Dae-Gab
    • Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
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    • v.21 no.5
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    • pp.819-827
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    • 1997
  • In this paper, a new modeling of a fine actuator for an optical pick-up has been proposed and multiobjective optimization of the actuator has been performed. The fine actuator is constituted of the bobbin which is supported by wire suspension, the coils which wind around the bobbin, and the magnets which cause the magnetic flux. If current flows in the coils, magnetic force is so produced as to be balanced with spring force of wire, so the bobbin is pisitioned. In this model the transfer function from input voltage to output displacementof bobbin has been obtained so that we can describe this integrated system with electromagnetic and mechanical parts. Wire suspension is regarded as a continuous Euler beam, damper as distributed viscous damping, and bobbin as a rigid body which can move up- and down- ward motion only. According to the model, the high frequency dynamic characteristics of the fine actuator can be known and the effect of damping can be investigated while the conventional second order model cannot. In multiobjective optimization, two objective functions have been chosen to maximize the fundamental frequency and the sensitivity with respect to the input voltage of the actuator so that Pareto's optimal solutions have been obtained using .epsilon.-constraint method. These objective functions will satisfy the trends which will enhance the access speed and reduce the tracking error in the optical pick-up technology of next generation. In the result of optimization, we obtain the designs of the optical pick-up fine actuator which has high speed, high sensitivity and low resonant peak. Furthermore, we offer the relation between two object functions so that the designer can make easy choice.

A Study about Bisexuality in Current Fashion-Basis on a Representative Designers and their Characteristics in the each period- (현대패션에 나타난 양성적 복식에 관한 연구-시대별 대표적 디자이너와 그 특성을 중심으로-)

  • 채금석
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.44
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    • pp.37-56
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    • 1999
  • In clothing, a tendency of Bisexuality is in case of wearing clothing of the opposite sex, the mixing of modeling principle and characteristic of man and woman, the exclusion characteristic of sexuality that present sexlessness-the third sex. They-Designer Gabrielle Chanel, YSL, Giorgio Armani-give characteristic of man's fashion to women's fashion. However, the consciousness in design is different. Chanel apply principle of man's suit to woman's wear to express authority and power about gender image, hereby she express women liberation and equality of man and woman based on social ideology through fashion especially, she express women's sexual independency and self assurance to her clothing. YSL express liberal and bold women that pursuit reasonal and liberal life in 1970. As he apply tailoed suit's rigidity to women's wear, he made 'pants look' universal in women's wear through“Dress for success”in modern life. Armani apply successful modern image to women's wear, so he express women's image of confident intellegent as well as feminine image. He focus women's new image as man living liberal and indivisual life excluding social category rather than will of equality of man and women. Gernreich break sexual prejudice and release women freely, furthermore, as he express concern of sexuality pursuit liberty of mankind surpassing sex distinction with women liberty. Gianni Versace pursuit mix and extinguishment of sexual image many-sided, and break fixed idea of sex, and reprovide feminine and masculine image. So his design tend homosexuality because he regard women's glamor and ostensible sexuality as standard of beauty, he apply this to man's wear as well as women's wear. With this, he expresses sensitive and liberal man's that break characteristic of Gender that symbolize power and authority in man's wear through 'Without ties'.

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A Study of Huafu as Expressed in Chinese Contemporary Fashion (중국 현대패션에 표현된 화복(華服)에 관한 연구)

  • Pan, Hong-Yu;Kim, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.3
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    • pp.66-83
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    • 2010
  • Huafu is the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese as the significant cultural symbol of Chinese civilization. The resuscitation of Huafu is an exemplification for the pride of a nation, due to China's rapid economic development and a craze for Chinese cultures. Huafu's resuscitation is not only introducing the traditional design factors of Huafu into the contemporary fashion but also reflects the image of Chinese style created to modernize works. Through the study of the history of Huafu, it could be summarized that Ruqun(Zu-chin), Shenyi(Shen-yee), and Shan were the most important and typical types. The characteristics of Huafu were primary colors or strong contrast with achromatic colors, flora and fauna patterns, and geometric patterns. The clothing aesthetic of Huafu could be summed up as spacious, delicate, gorgeous, clandestine, and unconventional character. There were lots of elements in Huafu that could provide inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, such as forms, colors, patterns, details, and also the aesthetic. Based on the analysis of the Chinese designers who applied the elements of Huafu into contemporary fashion design, it could be recognized that the Chinese designer's works were made using the elements of traditional Huafu directly or using new fabrics and techniques to give a modern sense, but also embodies the Huafu's clothing aesthetic at the same time. In the wake of the resuscitation and publicity of Huafu, the essential factors of Huafu will be able to provide inspiration for designers not only for Chinese but also around the world.

An Array Beampattern Synthesis Using Adaptive Array Method and Partial Constrained Adaptation (최소 자승 평균오차와 부분 적응을 사용한 배열 빔 형성기법)

  • Lim Jun-Seok;Choi Nakjin;Sung Koeng-Mo;Kim Hyun-Seok
    • The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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    • v.23 no.8
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    • pp.570-575
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    • 2004
  • In the underwater acoustic systems. we can receive signals and retrieve information about a target by using a beamforming method. The most important thing in the beamforming is finding the way to optimize the mainlobe beamwidth and the sidelobe level to the desired value. One of the prominent results of beamforming method. which has been studied. is Philip's weighting function method(1) . Philip's method adaptively adjusts its weights of array to meet the desired mainlobe beamwidth and sidelobe level. It is very similar to the design method in adaptive filter. However. this method cannot easily bring us to the desired sidelobe level due to complementary relation between mainlobe beamwidth and sidelobe level. In this paper, we propose a new algorithm using partial constrained adaptation. This method makes us circumvent the above problem and meet the specification of design easily. The proposed algorithm presents a Pattern synthesis that designer can easily control the mainlobe beamwidth and the sidelobe level to the desired value while calculation time to converge is decreasing.

Analysis of Properties of Fashion Trading Areas Using Network Analysis Technique (네트워크 분석 기법을 통한 패션 상권의 특성 분석)

  • Kim, Yunjeong;Lee, Joeun;Lee, Yuri
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.40 no.2
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    • pp.203-220
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    • 2016
  • This research analyzed characteristic changes in trading areas and the success factors of popular fashion trading areas (Garosu-gil, Dongdaemun, and Itaewon). This research adopts a social network analysis method to semantically analyze trading areas. Articles on the three fashion trading areas were located through KrKwic software to extract keywords and calculate word frequency. Keywords with high frequency were placed through NodeXL software to identify relationships among keywords. Researchers created a network of relationships among trading areas and between past and present of trading areas to analyze and visualize. In the past (2008-2009), the trading areas of Dongdaemun, Garosu-gil and Itaewon were placed horizontally with a limited number of shared keywords between them. However, the three trading areas retain diverse rage of keywords and an organic realtionships five years later (2013-2014). Compared to the past, all three areas see the emergence of relevant fashion keywords such as 'designer', 'design', 'brand'. Additional cultural keywords such as 'culture/art/performance', 'exhibition', and 'event' have commonly appeared and imply that related industries are an important factor as well. Fashion companies that consider evaluating areas for a new store opening need to understand the trading area characteristics and select the most suitable area. In addition, it is necessary to equip the trading area with basic fashion elements as well as relavant industry when the government tries to develop fashion trading areas.

A Study on the Development of Fashion Design Practice Model Applying the Methodology of the Design Cycle -Focused on Demna Gvasalia's Design Method- (The Design Cycle(TDC) 방법을 활용한 패션디자인 실습모형 개발 연구 -뎀나 바잘리아의 디자인 방법을 중심으로-)

  • Lee, Hyunseung;Park, Juhee;Lee, Jaejung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.42 no.1
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    • pp.40-57
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    • 2018
  • This study investigated the design practice model based on the creative fashion designer's methodology in fashion education. 'The Design Cycle' was the criterion used to analyze the design method of Demna Gvasalia who is one of the outstanding contemporary designers. After that, this study's practice model was then developed and experimented to verify its effectiveness in design practice as based on Gvasalia's method where ready-to-wear products were firstly dissembled then re-constructed with new designs created based on re-constructed results. To test its effectiveness, a student oriented design workshop was held to extract design results through the practice model; in addition, the students also conducted a survey to evaluate the effectiveness of the method. According to the self-evaluation result, the participants generally accept the design efficiency through the distinctive process. An evaluation by three fashion experts was also conducted. Experts assessed that the model is recommendable for seniors having knowledges on 'Construction', it is appropriate to deal with the trickled-down copying trend that could promote student interest and generate separate results according to different visions. Therefore, it could be accepted that the applicability of this study's practice model was confirmed.

A Study on the Deternmining Factors of Korean Advertising Designer's Job Satisfaction (한국 광고디자이너의 직무만족도 결정요인에 관한 연구)

  • Chung, Moo-Whan;Joo, Ji-Hyuk
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.337-346
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    • 2004
  • Many researchers have been explored job satisfaction in various context. Nevertheless, there are no empirical researches on the advertising designers's job satisfaction in Korea. This research is an exploratory examination regarding Korean advertising designers's organizational behaviour. In general, job satisfaction is determined by two major factors; personal and organizational factor. This research shows that korean advertising designers's job satisfaction is mainly determined by the organizational factor such as payment and promotion. Promotion was particularly significant amongst them and recognition also proved to be influential. Synthetically, the determining factors of advertising designers's job satisfaction consists of several predictors such as payment, promotion, and human relationships. This result may gives an assumption that the agencies have not provided designers with specialized evaluation system reflecting designers' job characteristics. Thesis concludes that agencies need to set a new evaluation and payment systems in order to elevate designers' job satisfaction in organization.

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A Study on the Form Generation Applied to the Variation of Rhythm Affection Aesthetic Elements - Focused on Korean Typeface - (심미적 요소인 율동의 변화를 통한 형태발상에 관한 연구 -한글서체를 중심으로-)

  • 조경숙;홍정표
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.9-21
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    • 2004
  • Among the factors of consumer preference, aesthetics has been importantly considered in competitive market environment. Generally, consumers' purchasing standard is influenced as their awareness increases relative to variations in their lifestyles and due to these changes in consumers' wishes, design techniques and methods are focused towards adapting to these changes. Thus, in order to satisfy consumers' needs, and markets characterized with the short durability cycle of products, a distinctive design should be developed with respect to the form of products. The proposed design should also support form as an important factor to attract consumers preference. This study attempts to understand typology based on a categorization theory, and the conceptual structure of aesthetics. Both are importantly considered simultaneously. In addition, the study proposes a new design process by extracting Rhythm affecting aesthetic. In conclusion, the result of this study aims at developing more consumer preferring design beyond the scope of the ordinary designer's idea and generation.

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The Guarantee of Real Time Service Message with TMO in Multi-nodes Systems (다중노드 시스템에서 TMO를 이용한 실시간 서비스 메시지 보장)

  • Kim, Gwang-Jum;Seo, Jong-Joo;Kang, Ki-Ung;Yoon, Chan-Ho
    • The Journal of the Korea institute of electronic communication sciences
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.20-26
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    • 2006
  • One of the computer application fields which started showing noticeable new growth trends in recent years is the real time communication distributed computing application field. Object -oriented(OO) real time(RT) distributed computing is a form of real-time distributed computing realized with a distributed computer system structured in the form of an object network. In this paper, we describes the application environment as the DHS (distributed high-precision simulation) with TMO structure. The TMO scheme is aimed for enabling a great reduction of the designer's effort in guaranteeing timely service capabilities of distributed computing application systems. It has been formulated from the beginning with the objective of enabling design-time guaranteeing of timely action. In the real time simulation techniques based on TMO object modeling, we have observed several advantages to the TMO structuring scheme. TMO object modeling has a strong traceability between requirement specification and design, cost-effective high-coverage validation, autonomous subsystems, easy maintenance and flexible framework for requirement specification.

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