• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.305-324
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to examine aesthetic effects of face type and necklines of one piece dress one of details in clothes on visual evaluation. For this study two set of stages were processed. At first stage data were collected from female college students in Kwang Ju.Chonnam. Subjects between the aged of 18-26 were took pictured of their faces then they were classified into 7 groups That is egg ob-long round square inverted triangle triangle and diamond shapes. At second stage two sets of experimental design were utilized based on the classified face types. A set of design was 5$\times$4 design which involved 5 levels (egg oblong round inverted triangle and diamong shape) of face type and 4 levels(round boat vee and square neckline) of basic neckline. Another set of de-sign also was 5$\times$4 design which involved 5 levels of face type and 4 levels of modified neckline. As experimental treatment the stimulus materials and questionnaires were employed. The qustionnaires were consisted of visual evaluations on the stimulus materials by using semantic differential scale,. The experiments were proceeded through 2 week by 30 subjects composed of gaduate students and staffs in some departments of Clothing and Textiles at college. Data were analyzed by Frequencies Mean Factor Analysis TTest ANOVA and Ducan's Multiple Range Test. The major results were as followed: 1. There were significant aesthetic effects of face type on visual evaluations, Especially egg and inverted triangle shape among the face types were evaluated more aesthetic than the other face shapes. 2. There were signifiant aesthetic effects of the neckline types on visual evaluations, Es-pecially vee neckline among necklines were more aesthetic than the other necklines,. 3. As compared with the basic neckline types and the modified neckline types the modified necklines were assessed more aes-thetically than the basic necklines. 4, The face type and he neckline type were influenced interactively on visual evauations Specifically it showed that oblong round and diamond shape of face type were matched to vee neckline more than the other necklines, Also it showed that the egg and inverted tri-angle shape wee matched to round vee and squre neckline more than boat neckline.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.391-398
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• 2001

This research is focused on how to divide the upper chest type and to find out the amount to be removed at the neckline according to the different upper chest type and different neckline depth. The result of the research is as followed. 1. In the result of the factor analysis, the upper chest could be explained by six factors such as the shape factor of the upper chest, shoulder curve factor, shoulder sloping factor, space factor from shoulder to waist, upper chest slope factor, and the bust size factor. 2. The shape of the upper chest could be divided by three groups. The first group is characterized as lagging and bent backward shoulder, slight slope of upper chest, and small bust. The second group is comparatively curved at the upper chest and big bust. The third group is rising and bent forward shoulder, slight curved upper chest. 3. The amount to be removed at the different neckline depth and in these three types of upper chest had a difference due to the differences of the upper chest shape containing the shoulder shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.104-116
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• 1999

This study was intended to make an inquiry into the effect of lines, shapes and colors (achromatic colors) as apparel design elements on the perceptions of facial size, brightness and shape through an empirical research based on the theories of visual perception and optical illusion that have been studied in Gestalt Psychology, which becomes the basis of apparel design principles. It was shown that the facial size was influenced by the collar size, the degree of neckline cut, and the thickness of the trimming line. The white scarf with the white jacket made the face look darkest while the black scarf with the black jacket made the face look brightest. When the neckline had the characteristic of the line contrasted with the facial shape, the oval-shaped face was perceived to be the most ideal. When the facial shape and the neckline shape were similar, the facial shape was perceived to be more highlighted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.117-129
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• 1999

Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.826-837
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• 2015

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.724-735
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• 2000

The objectives of this study were to identify the dimensional structure of female impression formation based on silhouettes and necklines of wedding dresses, and to analyze the effect of silhouettes, necklines, and perceiver's gender on impression formation. The experimental design was 3$\times$6$\times$2 (silhouettes$\times$necklines$\times$gender) factorial design by 3 independent variables. Samples were 432 males and females. Four factors derived to account for the dimensions of impression formation. These were attractiveness, neatness, feminity, and prettiness. Dome silhouette had a positive effect on impression of attractiveness. Bell silhouette increased the impression of femininity and prettiness. Tubular silhouette had a negative effect on the impressions of attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Neckline had a significant effect on impression of attractiveness and negative on prettiness. Sweet-heart neckline has a positive effect on impression of attractiveness and negative on prettiness. Off-shoulder neckline increased the impression of prettiness. Round neckline decreased the impression of attractiveness. On the interaction effect according to the neckline and perceiver's gender, the men perceived high-necklines to be more feminine than did women, while the women perceived off-shoulder necklines to be more feminine than did men. There was interaction effect between silhouette and neckline on prettiness. In dome silhouette, heart-shape neckline was perceived to be prettier than the others, while in bell silhouette, off-shoulder neckline was perceived as prettier than the others.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.460-472
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• 2011

This paper developed motifs through the use of images of masks with which the Korean innate consciousness of aesthetics is expressed. The motifs were applied to fashion items. This paper investigated the concept, origin and types of traditional masks through the existing literature. Using the computer graphic programs of Illustrator and Photoshop CS2, three basic motifs were set from the images of the nobleman, Bune of Hahoi Tal and Byeongsan Tal. Each motif was extended into two motifs by changing shape and color. For the basic motif design, this study sought to express contemporary images, suitably for each fashion item, while maintaining the basic shape of the masks and their traditional images. In addition, this study set the concept of the design so that could be accepted by various age groups. For the design of handkerchiefs, a rotating array, involving enlargement, reduction, repetition, and the gradation of motifs, as well as a diagonal symmetric array, and all-over patterns were developed. The T-shirt design created here was divided into a half-sleeve box type, a round neckline sleeveless type, a V-neckline close-fitting sleeveless type, and a V-neckline close-fitting cap sleeve type. For the design of necklaces, OLED or LED, which are considered as a future display type, was used. Additionally, the production of an entertainment styled new atmosphere is proposed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2013

This study suggests a new women's upper clothing based on traditional Korean costumes that utilize the Jatmulim. The Jatmulim is an example of the skill found in conditional Korean costumes and is of a small triangular shape. Jatmulim was developed in size, shape, and arrangement through the method of making and using children's Durumagi, the dancer's or shaman's Mongduri, and modern works. A total of five pieces of different women's clothing were suggested by applying the developed Jatmulim. In the first piece, the clothing is a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the construction of the Yoseon-Cheolik from the Joseon period and made with a larger sized Jatmulim in the back of the neckline and shoulders. In the second piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's jacket based on the Bansuui of the Joseon period with rectangular Jatmulim in the front neckline and at the end of the sleeves. In the third piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the Danryeong with rectangular Jatmulim in the neckline. In the fourth piece, the construction of the Jeogori is applied to the clothing for making a woman's jacket that has a bigger sized Jatmulim in the front part as a decoration. In the fifth work, the clothing is designed for a sleeveless blouse based on the Dapho with a different sized arrangement of the Jatmulim in the neckline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.51-69
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify the body shapes. exclusive of size and corpulence factors of more than 60-year old elderly women by distinctions, and to investigate the visual effects of combination of ensemble suit details. For the body shape classification, the factor analysis and cluster analysis were performed : the mean value difference of numeral values for classified types were tested by ANOVA : and the follow-up test was conducted by the Duncan's multiple ranged test. The data analysis for visual effects evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analysed by mean. paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. The followings are the types of body shape according to the shape factors of the front line of body for elderly women. The distinctions of the front li e of elderly women's body could be presumed; that was, Body typeⅠ was a comparatively well-balanced body type, Body type Ⅱ was close to an average body type. and Body type In was a severely corpulent body type. 2. The followings are the results on the physical visual effects inducing the constituents of clothing type. 1) The neckline·collar types of a jacket have a great influence on the visual effects of the upper body, and orderly. the tailored collar. soutien collar, and round neckline had positive influence on the visual effects in the upper body. 2) The pleat types of one-piece dress had positive influence on the visual effects in the lower body in the order of gored type, pleats type, and gathered type. Also. the balance in the lower body had more influence on the overall balance of the clothing compared to the constituents of clothing type such as neckline collar type or opening line. 3) It showed that whether there is the front opening line of a jacket influenced on the visual effects of all categories.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the proper combination of ensemble suit details for the body silhouette of elderly women. In this study, the principal component analysis was used to search for the proper combination of suit details for covering defects of body which has been changed unbalanced. The designs of evaluated suits were manipulated in 18 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, neckline(round neckline, shirt collar, tailored collar), types of one-piece dress(pleats type, gather type, flare type), and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results were summarized as follows: In case of normal body type, it had complementary effects for upper body with closed round neckline jacket or shirt collar jacket, and for lower and the whole body with a combination of closed tailored collar jacket or shirt collar jacket with pleats or gored type one piece dress. The visual effect for elderly women's body shape was different in opened or closed jacket. And that enhanced by Jacket with collar.