• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.247-250
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• 2007

This study was performed to investigate the discrimination of Angelica gigas, Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Angelica gigantis root has been used as a Korean traditional medicine for the treatment of woman disease. Natural dyes give us many great benefits, including diversified color, but no pollution. These studies were carried out acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was dyed with Angelica gigas, Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis. The results of experiment showed as follows: In discrimination by dyeing, the colors of Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis were very similar, but that of Angelica gigas was different. There were no differences among colors of materials using non-mordant. But dyeing with iron acetate and copper dichloride were showed dark in Angelica gigas than other angelica species.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.323-330
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• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.27
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• pp.13-19
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was the efficient use of the black rice bran for dyeing textiles. For this purpose, we investigated proper extracting conditions of black rice bran, dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. To find proper extracting condition of black rice bran, we extracted black rice bran with water at different temperatures($40^{\circ}C$, $60^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$), different extracting pH(pH3, pH4, pH5, pH6) and extracting time(20, 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160, 180min.). Also we investigated the effect of dyeing time(1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6hr.), dyeing temperature($40^{\circ}C$, $60^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$) and mordanting method(non, pre, sim, post) to examine dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. As a result, when the extracting temperature and time were $80^{\circ}C$, 3hr., respectively, extracting was best. And the higher the extracting concentration, the more the extracting amount. As the dyeing temperature and time were higher and longer, the dyeability of silk fabrics was better. With mordant, the dyeability was improved and when using premordant method better, the K/S value was maximized. The laundering fastness of the silk fabrics dyed with black rice bran was estimated to have a good grade of 3~4, however, the light fastness was poor to have a grade of 1~2.

• Applied Microscopy
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.35-41
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• 2008

Onions are commonly available and easily processed, and since their skins are thrown away they could be very useful materials from the viewpoint of environmental preservation. This study aimed to process onion skins into the state of powder and look into the optimum condition for hair dyeing by decoloring virgin hair four times and observing the hair dyeing quality and its mechanical and morphologic changes by the different condition of onion skins in duration, temperature, density, pH, and mordant treatment. The observations of hair surface through scanning microscopy showed the formation of cuticle layer, though in a little blown-up state in the case of the hair dyed with onion skin application, when compared with bleaching hair with the completely dissolved cuticle layer. According to the above findings of experiments, the dyeing quality of the hair dyes with onion skin application was excellent, the dyeing was also feasible without mordants, and the use of Fe as the mordant increased dyeing exhaustion more, which would make it an effective hair dye. These results of the experiments indicate that the natural pigment extracted from onion skins can be actually used for hair dyeing from the viewpoints of the dyeing quality and the skin treatment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.59-63
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• 2003

This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.733-741
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• 2006

This study was to investigate categories of valuation and make the standard on developing valuation of natural dyes by Delphi method. The three-round Delphi tests were performed with 36 professional in the academic, the industrial, and the art field.'Dyeability property' meant levelling, adsorption, color diversity with mordant, color stability, 'marketability', possibility of mass production, economical efficiency, functionality, demand and supply of natural dyes, 'color', yield, beautiful color, value of color and 'color fastness', washing, perspiration and light fastness. Indigo, persimmon, cochineal, safflower and onion in dyeability property were evaluated highly, functional natural dyes in marketability, red and purple color ones except indigo in color and ones containing tannin in color fastness.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.35-47
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• 2013

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea's color through natural dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.42-50
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• 2008

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of pomegranate hull colorant as a natural hair coloring dye. The extract of pomegranate hull was concentrated and freeze-dried to get colorant powder. Effect of dyeing condition and mordanting on the dye uptake of hair by using Al, Fe, Cu, Cr, Sn compounds, color change and colorfastness were explored. In addition, tensile strength was measured and the surface of the hair was observed. Dye uptake of hair measured by K/S value (400 nm) indicated that ionic bonding seems to be involved in the sorption of pomegranate colorant to hair. Maximum sorption was obtained at pH 3.5 and the concentration of 50% (on the weight of hair, o.w.h.). Acidic dyeing condition (pH $3.5{\sim}5.0$) showed yellow color however alkaline dyeing condition (pH $7{\sim}11$) gave reddish yellow color. Pomegranate hull colorant produced greyish brown color on hair and the hair mordanted with Fe showed dark brown color. Mordants except Fe did not increase dye uptake significantly. Mordants except Cu increased light fastness and mordants except Cr increased washing fastness level slightly. According to SEM observation and the tensile strength retention measurement, the mordant dyed hair gave more damage to hair by ultraviolet light and washing than the hair dyed without mordanting. Experimental results of K/S value and colorfastness(light and washing) supported that pomegranate hull colorant without mordanting can be used as a semi-permanent natural hair coloring dye.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.136-148
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• 2007

African marigold is a common plant easily available in many flower beds. It has been reported as a practical and prospective resource of dyes since the dyes can be extracted from their bodies as well as petals. In this research, cotton and ramie fabrics which are made from natural cellulose were dyed using the extract of the African Marigold which is a variety of marigold. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants. Dyeability was evaluated by examining and measuring surface color, K/S value, and the changes in the maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. For the dyeing with marigold extract, the color tone did not differ by pre-mordanting and non-mordanting. Reaction with post-mordanting was excellent, which was colored in various yellow series. The best dyeability was achieved in dye solution of pH 6.5-7.0 which is not conditioned. The largest K/S value and color difference were obtained in tin mordanting. The dye uptake was greatly increased in chitosan pre-treated mordanting compared with the post-mordanting without chitosan pre-treatment. Due to its high heat resistance, African Marigold extract is easy for dye extraction and dyeing, and its dyeability is excellent for natural cellulose fibers. Also, colorfastness was proved to be practically usable.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.281-287
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility utilizing Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone as a new natural dye resource. In previous study, dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out and Metasequoia cone colorant showed low affinity to cotton fiber and maximum dye uptake was obtained at pH 3.5 showing YR Munsell color. For further evaluation of its efficacy as a new natural dye resource, effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for silk fiber. Metasequoia cone colorant showed good affinity toward silk fiber showing YR Munsell color and maximum dye uptake was shown at pH 3.5. Post-mordanting with Cu and Fe improved dye uptake, especially Fe($C_5H_{10}FeO_6$) mordant was effective as much as 2 times higher dye uptake comparing with un-mordanted sample. The color of dyed fabrics with mordanting showed YR Munsell color. Fe mordanted fabrics appeared dark gray~black color. Colorfastness to washing was relatively good, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics showed grade 2. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorant can be used as a new dye resource for silk fiber getting brownish yellow to dark gray/black color depending on mordant type. In addition, it showed antimicrobial functionality.