• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.612-621
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• 2011

The process of making or cultivating indigo dyes is very cumbersome and complex. The dye extraction and dyeing methods using general plant dye, moth repellent dye, fast acting natural dye, and other dyes are very different. This research investigates the extraction of indigo dye and liquid dye extraction of polygonum(indigo) plants using calcium oxide water. While extracting indigo dye the concentration of purified indigo dye may be controlled by adjusting the pH level. Due to the various uses of dyes the adjustment of surface color must be considered. In regard to the change according to different concentrations of reducing agents, it was found that cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics show the highest color difference at 0.4% and 0.3% respectively. As the reduction temperature increases, the color difference increases as well. The maximum color difference was found to appear at $90^{\circ}C$. Cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics showed 70.55 and 67.01 respectively. The color difference increases as the concentration of dyes increases, but at a concentration of 300%, cotton fabrics was found to show 6.22PB in H value using the Munsell color system, containing purple and blue color. The pH of the polygonum dyes extracted through this experiment were adjusted by adding calcium oxide to the experimental water, without directly adding calcium oxide to the liquid polygonum extract. In a refine state, it was mixed with polygonum extract to extract a more refine and highly concentrated indigo dye. When lye and reducing agents are added to extracted indigo dye and sealed for long-term storage, it can be effective and easily used for dyeing.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.219-234
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• 2014

박물관에서 소장품의 저산소 농도 살충처리를 위해, 직물, 염색 직물, 종이, 염색지 및 채색편의 색상 및 기계적 성질에 미치는 영향을 평가하였다. 저산소 농도 살충 조건은 질소 및 아르곤을 사용하여 조성한 산소 농도 0.01%, 온도($20^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $30^{\circ}C$), 습도 50%, 살충 시간 30일이였다. 직물은 생견 직물, 자외선 열화 생견 직물, 정련 견직물, 자외선 열화 정련 견직물, 광목 및 자외선 열화 광목을 평가 대상으로 하였다. 천연염색 견직물과 면직물은 생쪽, 쪽, 홍화, 자초, 꼭두서니, 소목, 황벽, 울금, 치자, 황련, 괴화, 코치닐, 자광, 오리나무, 오배자, 밤피 및 쪽과 홍화 복염, 쪽과 황벽 복염, 쪽과 괴화 복염, 쪽과 소목 복염 등 천연염색 직물 각 20종이었다. 평가 대상 종이는 한지(닥지, 닥과 볏짚 혼합지), 화지(안피지), 면지, 린넨지, 면, 아마 및 마닐라삼 혼합지, 복사지, 신문지, 반수 닥지 등 9종이었다. 염색지는 한지에 쪽, 소목, 꼭두서니, 홍화, 치자, 황벽, 괴화로 천연염색한 것을 평가하였다. 채색편은 반수 한지와 반수 화견에 석청, 석록, 주사, 주, 석자황, 등황, 연단, 대자, 석간주, 니람, 연지(자광, 코치닐, 홍화, 꼭두서니), 뇌록, 스몰트, 울트라마린블루, 라피스라즈리, 프러시안블루, 백토, 연백, 호분(굴껍질 호분, 대합껍질 호분) 등 23종의 안료 분말을 아교물에 개어 도포한 것이었다. 평가 대상 재료에 대해 저산소 농도 살충처리 전후의 색차를 평가한 결과, 색차 ${\Delta}E^*$는 1.5 이하이거나 대조군보다 낮았으며, 직물 및 염색 직물의 살충처리 전후의 인장강도 변동률은 기준치 이하였다. 그리고 가스(질소와 아르곤)와 살충 온도에 따른 색차 및 인장강도 변동률에 대한 영향도 없었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권5호
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• pp.733-741
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• 2006

This study was to investigate categories of valuation and make the standard on developing valuation of natural dyes by Delphi method. The three-round Delphi tests were performed with 36 professional in the academic, the industrial, and the art field.'Dyeability property' meant levelling, adsorption, color diversity with mordant, color stability, 'marketability', possibility of mass production, economical efficiency, functionality, demand and supply of natural dyes, 'color', yield, beautiful color, value of color and 'color fastness', washing, perspiration and light fastness. Indigo, persimmon, cochineal, safflower and onion in dyeability property were evaluated highly, functional natural dyes in marketability, red and purple color ones except indigo in color and ones containing tannin in color fastness.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2008년도 제39차 학술발표회
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• pp.93-94
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• 2008

The color mixture by using indigo and Japanese pagoda is worked on rayon, which is made of cellulose, to diversify colors of natural dyes. The process which is using indigo first and then Japanese pagoda can be allowed various possibilities of color combination than that of using Japanese pagoda first. And also the color mixture with the use of mordant which is using indigo first and then Japanese pagoda can be expected more effective to get diverse colors than that of using Japanese pagoda first.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권7호
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• pp.1205-1219
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• 2010

This study analyzes the conditions and products of internet shopping malls that sell natural dyeing products. In this study, 98 natural dyeing internet shopping malls were selected. The results of this study are as follows. The locations of the internet shopping malls were Gyeonggi-do, Seoul, Jeollanam-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Gwang-ju (city), Daegu (city), Busan (city), Gyeongsangnam-do, and Jeju-do. The most frequent dyes of the natural dyeing products were loess, followed by charcoal, indigo, and persimmon. Indigo was most frequently used in Seoul, with loess and charcoal most frequent in Gyeonggi-do. Persimmon, indigo, loess, and charcoal were mainly used in Jeollanam-do, with persimmon and loess in the Gyeongsangbuk-do, and persimmon in Jeju-do. The highest ordered product categories were accessories, followed by adult clothing, interior decoration products, and bedding. The most frequent products were bedclothes, followed by scarves, female shirts, blouses, pillows, female jackets, and vests. Regarding the price of products, 150,000-200,000 won was the highest for the Saenghwal Hanbok, with 10,000-30,000 won for underwear, 30,000-60,000 won for accessories, and 100,000-150,000 won for bedding. Concerning product information, 58.2% of internet shopping malls offer the product size and almost half of them did not show the properties or directions for handling the product. Based on the research results, the problems of the conditions and products of natural dyeing internet shopping mall were derived. The results show that the natural dyes of internet shopping malls lacked regional symbolism, the products were not specialized, and product information was not fully offered to consumers. To solve these problems, the strategies for marketing the promotion of the natural dyeing internet shopping mall were, ‘Using natural dyes from local resources’, ‘Market oriented and specialized item design’, and ‘Offer right product information’.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.87-97
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• 2022

This study investigated the dyeability and color change of the natural dyes of SeaCell, a biodegradable functional fiber that is permanently added to cellulose fibers with natural additives extracted from seaweeds. The natural dyes used in the study are five dyes. Gardenia and turmeric, which are yellow-based natural dyes, Sappan wood and Lac, which are red-based natural dyes, and Indigo, a blue-based natural dye, were selected. The dyeability and color change according to the change of the mordant conditions and the number of times of dyeing were investigated. In addition, the dyeing properties and colors of cotton and silk fibers were compared under the same dyeing conditions as SeaCell. The study results are as follows. It was found that SeaCell had lower dyeing properties than silk, a protein fiber, in gardenia, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but had higher dyeing properties than cotton with the same cellulose component as SeaCell fibers. In the case of turmeric, it showed higher dyeing properties than cotton except for the no mordant condition. In the case of Indigo dye, SeaCell shows the best dyeability, indicating that it is a very suitable fiber for Indigo dyeing. As sustainable functional fibers are continuously developed in the future, natural dyes that are environmentally friendly and human-friendly are actively introduced and commercialized, and it is expected that they can be used as reference materials.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• 제50권1호
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• pp.31-45
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• 2022

After manufacturing the natural dyed actual size Hanji using 11 kinds of plant natural dyeing materials and 2 kinds of animal natural dyeing materials, the color characteristics and color change and color fastness after post-mordanting were compared and discussed. The hues of 13 types of natural dyed Hanji were black, PB, and RP, each with 1 type, YP with 3 types, and Y with 7 types. Among the natural dyeing materials, Chinese ink, indigo and Lac showed high color yield and color difference, and violet-root cromwell and gardenia seeds showed low color yield. The color fastness of Hanji dyed with turpentine diluted Ottchil, Pagoda tree seeds, Chinese ink and indigo was excellent, while that of gardenia seeds and violet-root cromwell were very poor. After post-mordanting of natural dyed Hanji with Al, Cu, and Fe mordants, the hue changes were show up the Alnus firma, clove, lac and cochineal. In addition, the color difference was very diverse and was overall the most biggest due to Fe mordant. After 72 hr. of UV irradiation on post-mordanting natural dyed Hanji, hue change was observed in 3 types and color fastness was improved in 8 types by post-mordanting. The Hue and color fastness are significantly different depending on the type of natural dying materials and post-mordants. Therefore, when dyeing Hanji with natural dyes, it is necessary to dye with sufficient knowledges and informations about the desired color and fastness.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.101-109
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to investigate the characteristics of natural indigo dyeing of cotton fabric. Reduction and dyeing were carried out by one-step process using an infrared dyeing machine at the liquor ratio of 1:100, and subsequently oxidation and washing in water were followed. Dye uptake was increased with the increase of indigo concentration. Over the full range of dyeing tests, the dyeing condition was optimized to $40^{\circ}C$ for 40min. For most of dye concentrations, the cotton fabrics showed mainly PB color. Maximum K/S value was shown at 4g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration and the color strength increased with the increase of dye concentration. Value(lightness) decreased with the increase of dye uptake irrespective of mercerization or reduction method, while the mercerized cotton showed two times higher dye uptake than the untreated cotton. Whereas hue of the untreated cotton showed large decrease of P character(5.6~3.5 PB) with the increase of dye uptake, that of the mercerized cotton increased P character(4.7~5.5 PB). Irrespective of mercerization, value and chroma decreased with the increased of dye uptake. In addition, the untreated showed lower chroma than the mercerized cotton. In the case of traditional reduction, hue of the untreated cotton was changed very little with the increase of dye uptake. For hydrosulfite reduction, P character decreased with the increase of dye uptake. The difference of hue value was small with the change of reduction method(hydrosulfite reduction or traditional fermentation). Color character was not influenced by the changed maximum absorption wavelength. Washing fastness showed 4~4/5 shade change rating without any staining. And dry rubbing fastness was good at low color strength. The bacterial reduction ratios of dyed cotton fabric were also increased.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제49권1호
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• pp.8-13
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• 2007

쪽풀 생잎에서 우려낸 색소 액에 소석회를 첨가한 후 쪽풀 색소의 침전물을 만들어서 냉동 건조시켜 쪽풀 색소를 제조하여, 그 성분을 조사한 결과 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 1. UV분광광도, TLC 정성 분석, HPLC 측정 결과 쪽 분말 용액의 2개 bend가 나타났으며, 적색색소대인 540nm 와 청색 색소대인 620nm가 존재함을 알 수 있었다. 2. FT-IR 분석으로부터 $1627cm^{-1}$에서 채, $3200{\sim}3300cm^{-1}$에서 NH의 흡수대가 나타나고, 적색 및 청색 색소의 IR spectrum이 일치하였으며, 3. EI-mass 분석 결과 청색과 적색 색소의 fragment 이온의 m/z가 일치하고, $^1H_MNR$ 분석결과로부터 두 색소는 이성질체임을 알 수 있었고, 4. 쪽 염료 성분 함량을 조사한 결과 인디고 색소 4.06%와 인디루빈 1.06%이었다.