As a primary step to develop natural preservative for extending the shelf-life of kimchi, the effect of 102 edible plants, 21 antimicrobial agents and related compounds on kimchi fermentation was studied. Among 42 oriental medicinal plants tested, Baical skullcap and Assam indigo were found to be highly effective for maintaining the fresh state of kimchi. Although Bugbane, Red mangolia, Bushy sophora, Szechuan pepper, Chinese quince and Scisandre significantly inhibit the growth of Lactobacilli, their effect was not high enough to be used as raw materials for kimchi preservative. When the effect of 32 herbs and spices was tested, peppermint, cinnamon, lemon balm, clove, hop, rosemary, sage, horseradish and thyme showed high antimicrobial activity against kimchi microorganisms. Among them, the effect of clove ranked top. When it was added to fresh kimchi, initial cfu value ($2.4{\times}10^{6}cfu/g$) changed little even after 2 day's fermentation ($2.6{\times}10^{6}cfu/g$). Sensory test was not a good criteria to evaluate the effect of herbs and spices, since their highly specific flavors affected the taste of kimchies. Twenty eight fruits, vegetables and related plants were tested, but only leaves of pine tree, persimmon and oak leaves showed a significant bactericidal effect, finally contributing to the storage of kimchi. In addition, when 21 natural preservatives and other compounds were added individually to fresh kimchi, nisin and caffeic acid could inhibit fermentation.
The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.
Recently the interest in natural dyeing has been increased because of the color clarity, natural grace and reactionism in fashion. Indigo dyeing, safflower dyeing and Gal-ott in Cheju-Do become generally known, so the study about the natural dyeing is continued with national intrust and support. In this study, 1 used artemisia for various dyeing tests because we can get it easily. 1 tested the dyeability in wool as well as cotton and silk with wormwood in natural dyeing material. I also dyed nylon with the same material for the comparison of the molecular structure. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment were done in cotton to improve the low dyeability in the natural dyeing. The result of this study are as follows; We have to dye repeatedly to get deep color in natural dyeing, and mordant treatment brought good result in color difference and dyeing fastness. 1. Compared with silk, wool and nylon, the dyeability of cotton was the worse. The color difference of cotton was 18.81 without mordants , and 24.05 with mordant. The dyeability of cotton was much increased by mordants such as potassiumdichromate, copper sulfate, iron sulfate and salt water. The color of cotton was turned into yellow-green in potassium dichromate and yellow-green with deep green in copper sulfate. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment of cotton made the improvement in color, dyeability, laundering fastness, abrasion fastness. 2. The color difference of silk was 3 times as high as cotton. It showed the similar degree with the chitosan treated-cotton. That is to say, silk had good dyeability because it contains amino group and carboxyl group. The dyebility of silk was increased by a mordant such as iron sulfate, potassium dichromate and salt water, Drycleaning fastness showed 5 grade, abrasion-fastness was high over 4~5 grade and sunlight fastness showed 1 grade in all case. 3. The color difference of wool was the best among four fabrics because of 18 kinds of amino acids. It is considered that the sulfate of wool has the polarity and help metal- mordants get the better dyeability such as potassium dichromate, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, and aluminum chloride. The color was reddish-green in potassium dichromate, yellow.greenin iron sulfate and copper sulfate, and yellow in the rest mordants. Drycleaning fastness of wool showed over 4~5 grade, abrasion fastness 5 grade. Sunlight-fastness 1 grade. 4. The dyeability of nylon was almost same because of the similar molecular structure with silk. The clarity of color was poor. The color was yellow-green in copper sulfate and yellow in the rest mordants. Laundering fastness and abrasion-fastness of nylon was good. Sunlight- fastness represented 1 grade.
This research is to examine the formative of patterns and characteristics of expression in Danzhai Miao batik of Guizhou China and to reveal the cultural factors and characteristics of artistic expression inherent to it. As the research methodology, theoretical study was done by utilizing the preceding research data, literature data at home and abroad, photo data, and Internet data, and as the empirical research, field trip was made to Guizhou China and investigation and experiment of dyeing techniques, purchase of dyeing craftworks, photography shooting, and interviews were conducted. The results of this research showed that ancient Chinese batik began in Miao in the Jinhan era and the three types of Miao's traditional batik, i.e. Danzhai batik, Huangping batik, Anshun batik. Danzhai Miao batik obtained indigo blue white patterns through traditional production techniques and natural dyeing batik and represented Miao batik of Guizhou. In the expression of Danzhai Miao batik, based on the cultural backgrounds, the formative such as symbolic of patterns, tradition, primitive, reality, abstract, and decorative of dress designs and high dignity of artistry of creative batik patterns be found from the aspect of expressing magnanimous nationality.
The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.
The purpose of this study was to examine the costume worn by women in daily life according to life scenes depicted in genre paintings of the late Chosan Dynasty. The sentiments and customs of the time were examined to discover how costume culture followed women's lifestyles in the late period of the Chosun Dynasty. First, according to life scenes, a field amusement type costume was the most common garment and a commercial activity type costume was the least common garment. Second, when the form of costume was examined followed by the lifestyle it depicted, the following observations were noted. Women depicted in a housework type lifestyle often wore a Minjeogori. In contrast, women appearing in a labor production type or a commercial activity type lifestyle often wore a Banhoijangjeogori with the width of the coat narrowing gradually according to the trends of the time. In the forms of Chima, the women wore a Duluchima and a Gudlchima for convenience during their work and covered a Haengjuchima over it. Third, women shown in a field amusement type, a home enjoyment type or an affection pursuit type lifestyle mainly wore a deep blue colored Chima and Hoijang or Banhoijang Jeogori. While most of the women depicted in a labor production type, a housework type or a commercial activity type lifestyle wore a natural cotton colored Jeogori and a natural cotton colored and light indigo Chima. Fourth, in the field amusement type and the affection pursuit type lifestyle, the wearing of a headdress during outings of women appeared variously influenced by the strengthening restrictions placed on the women's lives according to the ethics of Confucianism.
천연색소로 사용되는 식물류 11종(쪽, 아카시아, 코치닐, 아선약, 포도과피, 태수, 헤나, 국화, 붉은백단향, 대황, 서양꼭두서니)의 생리활성 규명을 위해 열수 추출 분말을 제조하여 항산화 및 항비만 활성을 비교 분석하였다. 총 페놀 함량은 아선약 추출물이 348.23 mg/g으로 가장 높았다. DPPH, ABTS 라디칼 소거능 및 FRAP법에 의한 환원력도 아선약 추출물의 활성이 가장 높았다. ${\beta}$-carotene linoleic acid system을 이용한 항산화 활성은 아카시아 추출물이 가장 높았다. 소화효소 저해 효과를 측정한 결과, ${\alpha}$-glucosidase 저해 활성은 아카시아 추출물이 93.93%로 가장 높았고, ${\alpha}$-amylase 저해 활성은 아선약 추출물이 64.53%로 가장 높았다. Trypsin 저해 활성은 아카시아 추출물이 60% 이상으로 가장 높았고, ${\alpha}$-chymotrypsin 저해 활성은 아선약 추출물이 40% 이상으로 가장 높았다. ipase 저해 활성은 아카시아 추출물이 52.73%로 가장 높았다. 3T3-L1 세포에 대한 지방 축적률은 아선약 추출물이 55.8%로 가장 낮아 지방세포 분화 억제 효과가 큰 것으로 나타났다. 결론적으로 식물류 색소원료의 중 아선약 추출물과 아카시아 추출물은 높은 항산화 활성을 나타내었으며, 탄수화물, 단백질 및 지방 분해효소 저해에도 상당한 효과를 가지는 것으로 나타났는데, 이러한 결과는 페놀 함량과 상관관계가 높은 것으로 판단된다. 특히 아선약 추출물의 경우 지방세포 분화 억제를 통해 항비만 활성을 나타내는 것으로 판단이 되며 그와 관련된 메커니즘 연구는 좀 더 진행되어야 할 것으로 사료된다.
It is well-known method to use Ethylene Oxide (ETO) as a fumigant to preserve cultural heritage from the attack of some bacteria and insects. In this article, we investigated co]or change of some cultural material upon treating ETO. The cultural material was selected from Korean paper (hanji), ancient books, blue prints, pigments (DA, DB, DC, DD, DE and DF). hemp cloths, and colored pictures (DG, DH, Dl, DJ, DK). The $\Delta$E value in chromaticity coordinates for each item was obtained upon treatment with ETO at concentration of 200, 250, 380, 500, 710 g/m$^3$ respectively. The $\Delta$E value was derived from the equation of L*at with the data checked 24 hr, 48 hr, and 72 hrs respectively. The Korean papers(hanji) showed slightly change in color by $\Delta$E 0.8. In the case of ancient books, it showed $\Delta$E 2.91 which was easily distinguishable with the naked eyes. For the almost 73% of blue prints, the value of $\Delta$E was as much as more than 4.0 that it is recommended not to use. In the case of pigments, the value of $\Delta$E was ranged from 0.15 up to 4.0 so that it should be very careful before use. The hemp cloth dyed with natural indigo showed less than 1.00 in $\Delta$E, while various colored hemp cloth showed wide range of $\Delta$E from 1.00 to 4.00. Finally, from the fact that the color change was as small as less than 1.00 for the colored pictures, it is thought that treatment with ETO is one of method to be used to this purpose.
The objectives of this research were to identify the differences of image evaluations by perceiver's gender, majors and jeans' finishing and to examine image characteristics that have an influence on attractiveness and preferences of jeans' finishing. The subjects are 96 undergraduate students in Los Angeles of the USA. Elegant and refined images had a significant effort on perceiver's gender, so men tended to highly evaluate jeans as elegant and refined images than did women. Soft images were recognized differently by perceiver's major, so non-specialists in design tended to highly evaluate jeans as soft images than did specialists in design. In finishing, shattered wash was evaluated as the most individual, attractive, energetic, and splendid images, and stone wash was evaluated as the most ordinary, unattractive, and plain images. Light images tended to have interaction effects by majors and finishing. Specialists in design did not perceive differences between light images from finishing well, but non-specialists in design perceived that stone wash finishing's image is lighter than indigo blue finishing's image. Sociable images had interaction effects by perceiver's gender, majors and jeans' finishing, and especially non-specialists in men estimated that shattered wash has the lowest sociable images in finishing. According to evaluations about finishing images of ladies' jeans, men tended to be attracted by splendid images, and women tended to be attracted by sexy images. In addition, both men and women were commonly attracted by feminine images, so the study found that feminine images is important image for developing jeans for ladies. According to evaluations about finishing images of ladies' jeans, men preferred sexy and natural images to comfortable and energetic images, and women preferred sexy and neat images. Female undergraduate students of the USA tended to be attracted by sexy images, and we found that actually they consider buying jeans with such images.
This paper has the meaning to plan new design of patient's cloth focusing on its aesthetic aspect through surveying actual condition of use of patient's cloth and reflecting color or pattern that patient prefers to it. Substantial purpose of this paper is 1) to survey actual condition of patient's cloth on the basis of general hospital of downtown of Busan City, 2) to revise difficulty of patient's cloth and survey and analyze color and pattern that patient prefers and 3) to suggest new patient's cloth design using color and pattern that meets function that is not difficult for patient's activity and cure and stabilizes patient's mind on the basis of the result of analysis. The result of this paper is like follow. 1. Problem of current patient's cloth is that most hospital uses patient's cloth having white background and hospital logo of blue or green color and its length is too long so it requires adjustment of length of sleeves and pants 2. The result from analyzing preferred patient's cloth is that patient prefers patient's cloth classified by man and woman, one that its length of sleeves and pants are adjusted and one that there is no collar in its neckline. Regarding color, male patient prefers mild indigo color(5PB7/7) and mild green color (5G9/2) and female patient prefers bright purple color and bright scarlet color(5YR8/7). Regarding pattern, both of man and woman prefers natural pattern. 3. This paper planned total 6 kinds of patient's cloth (common patient's cloth: 2 kinds, male patient's cloth: 2 kinds and female patient's cloth: 2 kinds) through revising difficulty and using new color and pattern according to result of preference.
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