• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.929-941
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• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.299-308
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• 2015

본 연구는 1996년 천안시 유량동에서 출토된 분홍색 단령의 염료 동정을 통해 조선시대에 사용된 적색 염료를 실증하기 위한 것이다. 이를 위해 유물에 사용된 염료를 추출하고 이것을 당시 염색에 사용되었을 것으로 추정되는 적색계 염료(홍화, 소목, 꼭두서니)에서 추출한 염료와 함께 고성능액체크로마토그래피분석을 실시하였다. 그 결과 유물에서 추출한 염료와 홍화염색포의 추출 염료는 같은 시간대인 17.5분에서 피크가 나타났다. 이때 자외/가시선 분광 분석 결과는 두 시료 모두 519nm에서 최대흡수파장이 나타나 기존 홍화의 홍색소 분석 결과와 같은 것으로 조사되었다. 또한 negative ion mode에서 질량분석을 실시한 결과 유물과 홍화 염색포에서 추출한 염료 시료는 carthamin의 분자량인 910을 나타내는 m/z 909에서 같은 시간대의 피크가 확인되었다. 이와 같은 결과로 이 분홍 단령 직물을 염색하는데 사용된 염재는 홍화인 것으로 동정되었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.401-408
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• 2007

The study aims to examine consumer awareness of green fashion products and demographic characteristics by subdividing environmentally conscious consumers of such products in the current domestic fashion market. It then compares the result with the characteristics of environmentally conscious consumers studied by 1999 in order to understand the trend of the consumer group in the fashion market and to promote the use of green fashion products. Marketing strategies for green fashion products suggested by the study are as follows: First, fashion firms are required to develop and publicize shops selling recycled or second-hand clothing that environmentally conscious consumers show constant interest. For instance, clothing patterns may be developed to enable consumers to make their kids' clothing easily at home, and various garments made from recycled materials may stimulate environmentally conscious consumers' desire to buy. Particularly, advanced technologies should be developed and publicized to manufacture garments that can excel existing ones made of normal materials in their features in order to satisfy consumers' interest in clothing made from recycled PET bottles. In addition, various natural dyes should be developed to decrease water pollution. Second, it seems imperative to develop clothing made of recycled knitted apparel that attracts consumers' interest more than ever, fashionable multi-purpose clothing, and environmentally friendly materials. As the use of natural fur or leather can cause the endangerment of wild animals and the destruction of the ecosystem, synthetic fur or leather may be used to develop sophisticated products with the same texture as real ones to attract environmentally conscious consumers' interest.

• Plant Resources
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.206-209
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• 2002

This study was performed to investigate the effect of Mentha arvensis Herba extract on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Mentha arvensis Herba has been used as a Korean medicine. It is effective in headache and stress. It is also good as a aphtha and in treating cold. In the long history of Korea, dyeing has been applied for a means representing the grace of natural and inner esthetic consciousness of man. Vegetable dyes give us such great benefits, diversified color, but no pollution. And ramie fabric has distinctive features such as beautiful brilliance, elegance, and strong durability. So, it is regarded as a special product of Korea traditionally. These studies were carried out to treat with acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was died with Mentha arvensis Herba extract. The results of experiment showed as follows: First, the chromophoric degree was the highest in acetate iron but not distinction in another mordants. Second, the light colorfastness was the highest in non treated and dichloride copper, but alum was the lowest. Third, the discoloration was alum and dichloride copper showed first grade in washing colorfastness. Abrasion colorfastness was not significant in this test. According the previous results, Mentha arvensis Herba has an efficiency in removing aphtha and in treating cold. So it is considered that Mentha arvensis Herba can be applied effectively to headache and stress.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.19-26
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• 1999

Strains degrading and decolorizing acid dyes, Nylosan red E-BL 150%. were isolated from natural system, was named as ARK3. The optimal culture conditions of temperature and pH were $35^\circ{C}$, 7.0, respectively. Growth rate of cells in conditions of aerobic shaking more than standing culture conspicuously increased, and optical density of those to strain ARK3 were found as 1.38 and 0.25 after 42 hrs. Decolorization efficiency in batch culture which used as immobilization media to natural zeolite was 15% after 6 hrs, while suspension culture was 5%, also its of immobilization and suspension culture were 90% and 85% after 48 hrs, respectively. Decolorization efficiency of air-lift bioreactor was more than 90% to a dilution rate of $0.038hr^{-1}$, but that was decreased as 70%, when the dilution rate was $0.05hr^{-1}$. Even though at maximum dilution rate of this study, there was not appeared "wash out" phenomienon of biomass. Decolorization efficiency was 97.7% at a dilution rate of $0.025hr^{-1}$, when influent dye concentration was $100mg/\ell$. But if influent dye concentration increased as $150mg/\ell$, even though MLVSS increased, that of treatment water decreased as 93%. Also, when influent dye concentration increased as $200mg/\ell$ and $300mg/\ell$, decolorization efficiencies of treatment water abruptly decreased as 85% and 63%, respectively. Decolorization efficiency was more than 92% to the limit volumetric loading rate of $3.75mg/\ell\cdot{hr}$hr, without regard to variation of influent dye concentration or hydraulic retention time. if volumetric loading rate was more than $3.80mg/\ell\cdot{hr}$, at same condition, decolorization efficiency was lower decrease of retention time than increase of influent dye concentration.entration.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권8호
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• pp.1057-1067
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• 2005

In the modem society, people try to represent and protect their traditional arts in aesthetic way along with the global society. The proposal of this thesis is about the fashion illustration that has adopted the folklike formative arts. 1 prefer the formative character rather then the universal character and I would like to use of folk paintings far the fashion illustration. Because the formative character of folk paintings is very expressional, we are able to draw a fashion illustration in easy, new, creative and less difficult way. The fashion illustration has to be a specialized field from the formative arts, and we need to study in a new way as well. We draw fashion illustration through the understanding of folk paintings and the study of analysis in formative. As a result of this study, we could draw a fashion illustration which is very abstract, exaggerative and simple. We also could expect the free hand drawing lines on this illustration. In these fashion illustrations, the human bodies let us fret the artists' tense, speed, and power. According to the important character of folk painting, which is the beauty of color, these fashion illustrations have expressed more color intensive. In the falk paintings there is a kind of rules to make color order, so the fashion illustrations that we drew have the bright and clear color combination. Because the folk paintings shouldn't be the artistic but should be the realistic, the fashion illustrations concentrate on the real subject. It is very natural looking that use the natural dyes in the fashion illustrations. According to this kind of art task, fashion illustration will be a certain part of the illustration in the modem society.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.547-552
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• 2005

The study has objective in raising value of the gray color as a meaningful color suiting sentiments of modern people by expressing the gray color in various perspective utilizing natural dyes that is natural at the same time having aesthetic color tones. For example, the main ingredient used for coloring black and gray color is the pyrogallol tannin and the gray tone dye can be acquired by combining the tannin with iron. In order to find the suitable condition for processing tannin, UV-Vis part absorption spectrum of Gallapple pyrogallol tannin, dye ability based on temperature and time, reflection rate based on concentration, color changes based on acid treatment and alkali treatment, changes on surface based on concentration or metal mordant condition, and lightfastness were measured. Maximum absorption wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of Gallapple tannin was at around 273 nm, while strong absorption was also observed at below 350 nm. Dye ability of Gallapple tannin is done more easily on silk rather than cellulose fibers such as cotton, while the optimum condition for dyeing was observed to be at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 minutes. As a result of acid treatment, the color of dye material consist highly of gray tones and showed red tone after the alkali treatment. While it was observed that as dye concentration and metal mordant concentration increased the color changed at counter-clockwise direction on the Y-scale of Munsell's scale of colors. Lightfastness was more on a normal fading. I hope this study opens up possibilities towards presenting gray color expressed from tannin as color with diversity and aesthetic value. In future, comparative study between dye expressed from catechol tannin dye materials will be helpful.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.356-362
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• 2019

This study investigated the substantivity of anionic dyes for cationic-modified new rayon (cocell) fabric treated with cationic agent (CA), 3-(Chloro-2-hydroxypropyl)-trimethylammonium chloride (CA). We also investigate the dyeability of cationic-modified new rayon fabric after dyeing with gallut. CA was converted in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide into epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride. Treating with this epoxy reagent modified the hydroxyl groups of the new rayon fabric into the trimethylammonium group through ether linkage. The introduction of new cationic sites into new rayon fabric by pretreating with cationic agent improved the substantivity of the Gallnut dye with the new rayon dyebath. The degree of the cationization of cationic-modified new rayon and cotton fabric was evaluated by nitrogen (N) content. This study extracted the colorant of gallnut with hot water at $90^{\circ}C$ and 120 min. Cationic-modified new rayon fabric dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration of gallnut, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and concentration of cationic agent. Dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation after dyeing with gallut solution. In addition, fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The degree of crystallinity of new rayon and cotton fabric were 42.15% and 54.94%, respectively. N (%) content of cationic-modified new rayon was higher than the cationic-modified cotton. Dyeability (K/S) increased significantly with the increasing concentration of CA and gallut.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.21-44
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• 2024

The purpose of this study was to research modern reinterpretation of traditional Chinese culture and design development of fashion items in the context of globalization and technological advancements, reflecting fashion demands of young female consumers in their 20s in China. To achieve this, this study investigated fashion preferences of young women in major Chinese cities, focusing on design elements such as form, details, patterns, and colors in 'New Chinese Style' fashion. Results indicated a high preference for overlapping collars, Mandarin collars, oblique front pieces, and slit sleeves. Additionally, there was a strong preference for natural and eco-friendly materials such as plant dyes and embossed velvet. Based on survey results and analysis of the popular brand 'TUYUE,' this study proposed two design themes. The first theme, 'natural symbiosis,' focused on casual wear with a soft and free image with a simple design. The second theme, 'chivalrous guest,' targeted work attire with minimal designs emphasizing power and confidence. Both themes aimed to meet aesthetic and practical needs of modern women by incorporating overlapping collars, asymmetrical front pieces, slit sleeves, and preferred colors and patterns. In conclusion, although this study was limited to design preferences of young Chinese women in their 20s, results offer valuable direction for future design innovation, contributing to sustainable development of the fashion industry and the preservation and innovation of traditional culture.