• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권2호
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• pp.49-59
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• 2006

Mourning culture has tended to be reduced to mere empty formalities with more simplified regulations. Changes in modern life style make it difficult to perform extended mourning ceremonies and the venues for mourning ceremony have shifted from private homes to chapels of rest in hospitals or Funeral Homes. Mourning clothing, the symbol of filial duty, has gradually been changed in shape. The study purposes were to research in the shapes of modern mourning clothing through field study on mourning clothing manufacturers and to compare traditional mourning clothing with the modern varieties through the actual making of traditional male mourning clothing based on old regulations. The study of mourning clothing through actual making prevents transformation and provides practical research data. The study methods were inquiry into old documents, field study, and actual clothing making. The study results are as follows. First, in terms of shape, traditional and modern mourning clothing are different in Garyeong, Lim and Daehacheok of Choiui. In case of Choisang, traditional clothing has one central plait in its front and rear sides while modern clothing one has 3 single plaits in each side. Second, in terms of sewing, traditional mourning clothing leaves an exterior margin to sew up in Choiui and an internal one in Choisang. However, modern mourning clothing has various types of sewing and plaits depending on the manufacturers and all sewing is done by machine. Third, in terms of material, traditional mourning clothing is made of Korean hemp and features narrow width, while modern clothing is made of Chinese hemp and features broad width.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

The ceremonies were roughly categorized into four： coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship. Among them, the funeral was a representative example to show ancestral worship. As it symbolizes the worship to ancestors, its procedure was complicated and formalized. It was undoubtedly certain that formalized mourning dresses and complicated table setting for sacrificial services to ancestors were burdens. Although what was symbolized by mourning dresses was different depending on the wearers purposes, it was thought that no clothing had such unusual symbolism as mourning dress. When the composition of mourning dress was examined, it was shown that Taoism, family relation of Confucianism or symbolic clothing system of Shamanism were combined. Mourning dress first represented the Confucian idea of ancestral worship. For the composition of clothing in which a shamanistic element was inherent, forms of birds were used to guide the dead soul to the other world. In cutting out mourning dress, opposite concepts of Yin and Yang, and closure and openness were used to show a harmony between heaven and the earth. Male and female were represented through sewing techniques. The period of observing the mourning period depended on the degree of kinship. The degree to which the clothing was loose indicated the degree of sadness and kinship. Load blocks and tear pads indicated the degree of sadness. In considering the above indicators, family relation and filial piety to ancestors had a great effect on the form and details of mourning dress. Shamanistic elements as well as Confucian ones were inherent in mourning dress, which resulted in the combination of Taoism and Confucianism.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.566-573
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• 1994

The Purpose of this study is to the organization principles of mourning dresses in Confucianism. The results of this thesis summarised as follow: The organization of mourning dresses laying stress on LiGi, the book of rites has six kinds of contents, Fushu. It is established on the rules and regulations of a religious sect in Confucianism, ZongFa. The succession ideology of ZongFaism has played on important parts in formation and conservation of the large familly system by the medium of mourning dresses with 5 classified costumes, WuFu. And the familly system in mourning dresses makes the rules in kindship category and primogeniture by WuFu grades.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권10호
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• pp.1595-1607
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to find the reason why the National Mourning Dress System of the Joseon Dynasty had been established although the General Mourning Dress System had exist through research of three things; differences of each social class, changes of the National Mourning Dress System by the age and differences between the National one and the General one. The methodology which is adopted for this study is comparative analysis by social class, period and age from the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty and the Orye-e. And this study is focus on the women's dress. The results of this study is as follows; Firstly, some mourning dress items had been different or not used by class. Secondly, although there had not been a great change, some dress items had been disappeared or used irregularly. And Naemyoungbu Naekwan's mourning dress had been changed by the age. Thirdly, The National one was more extensive in wearing and applied differently by class compare to the General one. Also it had an additional rule according to the period, duty and place to Naemyoungbu-Naekwan and Naemyoungbu-Goongkwan. The National one had been established by ruling class of The Joseon Dynasty who had tried to keep the Confucian standard and perfect social status system. And it is supposed that the National Mourning Dress System had not been a great change because the ruling class' will had not been changed.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.233-240
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to consider psycological funtions of mourning dresses in Confucianism. By each step of A.V.Gennep's passage rites, the result of this thesis summarised as follow; In the first Seperation rites after calling the death' name three times the relatives for whom mourning is due become dishevelled hair bare feet and bare shoulder etc. In the second Transition rites, bereaved familly has worn 5 class mourning dresses in deep grief. In the third Cooperation rites, gradually the living familly goes through three year stages of changing mourning dresses to ordinary colthes. In Confucian funeral ceremony the deviation of clothing behavior in each mourning step sublimates bereaved person's sorrow into their internal security.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.51-60
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• 2005

This ethnography is on the passage ritual clothes in Incheon province. This ethnography invatigates in two villages of people who has same family name -Family 'Cheung' (from Young-il) in Yeonsoo-dong and Family 'Lee'(from Cheun-joo) in dongyang-dong- in August to December 2003. The object of examination is 80's and 70's old women who have lived and had lived up to recent in two villages. (grand mother Sung, Cho, Cheung and yoon) The clothes of passage ritual are Baenaeoht is the first clothes of the newborn baby(swaddling), A wedding ceremony clothe is the clothing for the coming-of-age ceremony, Honryebouk is the clothing for wedding, Sangbouk in the clothing for mourning, shroud is the clothing for the dead, sacrificial robes. The result of ethnogrphy is the passage ritual clothes in Incheon Province similar with other Provinces in aspect of the name and the form and wearing of the clothes. there are remarkable differences in making method from making by oneself to purchase(swaddling$\cdot$shroud), westernize(clothes for wedding and mourning), simplification (sacrificial) between ritual for their parents and their husband and children.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.54-59
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• 1998

경기도 박물관에서 소장하고 있는 상복의 용도를 의복의 형태와 FT-IR 분광법에 의한 비섬유질 추출물의 분석으로 조사하였으며, 상복에 사용된 섬유의 감별을 위해서 현미경법, 용해법, 정색법을 적용하였다. 음이온계 세제인 LAS 계 세제를 사용하여 습식세척 후, 전자주사현미경으로 섬유표면에서의 세척 효과를 살펴보았다. 이상의 연구에서 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 의복의 형태와 비섬유질추출성분 분석 결과 수의가 아니라 상복임이 확인되었다. 비섬유질 추출성분들은 탄화수소계, 알킬 알콜, 알데히드로 수의에서 발견될 가능성이 높은 지방산과 질소화합물들이 전혀 검출되지 않았다. 섬유 감별 결과 섬유의 종류는 삼베였다. 세척후의 섬유 표면이 세척 이전의 섬유표면에 비해서 매끄럽고 이물질의 부착이 거의 없는 것으로 보아 세척 효과는 높았음을 알 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제25권
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• pp.269-284
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• 1995

This study investgates the significance of Chosun burial clothing in 15th to 17th Centuries by examing the costumes recorded in the ryesu (ritual books). Referring to description of the mouring-rit-ual in the the Kujoohryei(국조오례의), the sangryebiyo(상례비요), they exhibit little differ-ence in the ceremonial procedure, this implies that the the Jujagarye, the oldiest Chinese Ryesu, had influence on the manner of Chosun. The Kujoohryei(국조오례의) written-in 15th Century played a paramount role in domesti-cation of burial costume(염습의) which had been performed by the Jujagarye(주자가례), and the sangryebiyo(상례비요) etc written between 16th and 17th Centries promoted to genealize the mouring-ritual to the ordinery people. In the period, ryemsupui(염습의, clothing for the dead) is costumes for 'sup(습)', sofyum(소렴), and 'daeryum(대렴)' in the mourning ceremorial procedure, and for postliminal rites in the rites of passage. The reason of using clothing which they put on the dead's own daily clothing stands for eagerness for lasting life not only in this world but also in the other world.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2003

In this study I surveyed the dress and the color symbolism of Scarlett and Melanie in the movie "Gone with the Wind" based on the novel by Margaret Mitchell. In investigating the dress and the color symbolism, I analyzed Scarlett and Melanie's image as described in the novel, and examined how the symbolic imagery is represented through coloration based on the DVD reproduction of the movie "Gone with the Wind" originally produced in 1939. In her novel, the author Margaret Mitchell introduced two women, Scarlett and Melanie, whose respective image sharply contrasts with each other. To express Scarlett's young, vigorous, lusty, and vivacious image, she uses green to depict the character, clothing, and background on the whole. Black, which mainly expresses the death image of the mourning dress. Red symbolizes her fast and lavish image. On the other hand, gray is used to describe Melanie's sedate, shyness, and modest image while alluding to her gloomy atmosphere. Brown symbolizes her sedate and plain image in the novel. In the movie, green symbolizes Scarlett's overwhelming image of youth and liveliness as also depicted in the novel. Melanie, however, seems to appear consistently in gray-blue or purple dresses to reflect her image of modesty, sedation and dignity. Melanie's blue image contrasts with Scarlett's blue image in that the latter is used to hint at the omen to a tragedy to come. Red is used to express Scarlett's passionate and fast image. Black symbolizes death or mourning in the movie.

• 한국철학논집
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• 제59호
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• pp.215-240
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• 2018

이 글은 "의례"에 보이는 상례 관련 내용을 선진 제자서의 내용과 비교한 것이다. 고대 상례에 관련된 가장 직접적이고 체계적인 문헌은 "의례"이다. 이것은 내용상에서 "좌씨전", "묵자", "순자" 등의 선진 제자서에 반영된 것도 있고 반면에 상호 어긋나는 내용도 있다. 이러한 상황이 발생한 이유는 고대의 "의례"를 비롯한 예경(禮經)이 성립되는 과정에서 일부 내용이 이미제자서에 반영되기도 하고, 반대로 제자서의 내용이 후대 유가에 의해 예경에 편입되었기 때문이라고 생각된다. 우선 "의례" 상복 편의 기본 내용은 선진 제자서에 대체로 반영되어 있고 공통적인 내용이 많다. 대표적으로 부모와 군주를 위한 삼년상은 유가에서 공통적으로 선양한 것이다. 비록 묵가에서 유가의 후장구상(厚葬久喪)에 대해 반대하지만, "의례"의 상복제도는 적어도 춘추시기에 이르기까지 사람들의 보편적 인식이었다고 할 수 있다. 또한 "의례"와 제자서에 반영된 내용에서 공통적으로 복상(服喪) 대상이 성인인가의 여부에 따라 상복에 차이를 두고 있음을 확인할 수 있다. 한편 선진 제자서에 반영된 상례 관련 내용은 "의례"의 규정과 다른 주장도 많다. 특히 제자서에 반영된 부모를 위한 상복은 "의례"의 규정과는 달리 사회적 지위의 다름에 따라 차이가 있음을 보여준다. 또한 부모와 군주를 위한 상복제도와는 달리 아내와 첩을 위한 제도는 "의례"의 규정과 다른 내용이 많이 보인다. 현행본 "의례" "상복" 편에 나열된 규정은 복상 주체와 대상의 신분에 따라 상복과 상기를 달리하기 때문에 당시에는 물론 역사적으로도 엄밀하게 시행되기 어려웠을 것으로 생각된다. 특히 "친친"의 부자관계에 기초해서 자식을 위한 상례는 비교적 분명하고, 군주와 부모를 위한 상례는 명확히 규정되고 강조된 반면에 신하와 아내를 위한 상례는 규정이 없거나 모호한 경우가 많다. 따라서 "삼강"(三綱)이라는 용어가 한대(漢代) 정치윤리 이념을 반영한 동중서(董仲舒)의 "춘추번로"(春秋繁露)에 처음 보이는 것이지만, 내용상으로는 이미 "의례"에 반영된 것이라 보아도 무방할 것이다.