• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.2 s.216
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• pp.49-59
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• 2006

Mourning culture has tended to be reduced to mere empty formalities with more simplified regulations. Changes in modern life style make it difficult to perform extended mourning ceremonies and the venues for mourning ceremony have shifted from private homes to chapels of rest in hospitals or Funeral Homes. Mourning clothing, the symbol of filial duty, has gradually been changed in shape. The study purposes were to research in the shapes of modern mourning clothing through field study on mourning clothing manufacturers and to compare traditional mourning clothing with the modern varieties through the actual making of traditional male mourning clothing based on old regulations. The study of mourning clothing through actual making prevents transformation and provides practical research data. The study methods were inquiry into old documents, field study, and actual clothing making. The study results are as follows. First, in terms of shape, traditional and modern mourning clothing are different in Garyeong, Lim and Daehacheok of Choiui. In case of Choisang, traditional clothing has one central plait in its front and rear sides while modern clothing one has 3 single plaits in each side. Second, in terms of sewing, traditional mourning clothing leaves an exterior margin to sew up in Choiui and an internal one in Choisang. However, modern mourning clothing has various types of sewing and plaits depending on the manufacturers and all sewing is done by machine. Third, in terms of material, traditional mourning clothing is made of Korean hemp and features narrow width, while modern clothing is made of Chinese hemp and features broad width.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

The ceremonies were roughly categorized into four： coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship. Among them, the funeral was a representative example to show ancestral worship. As it symbolizes the worship to ancestors, its procedure was complicated and formalized. It was undoubtedly certain that formalized mourning dresses and complicated table setting for sacrificial services to ancestors were burdens. Although what was symbolized by mourning dresses was different depending on the wearers purposes, it was thought that no clothing had such unusual symbolism as mourning dress. When the composition of mourning dress was examined, it was shown that Taoism, family relation of Confucianism or symbolic clothing system of Shamanism were combined. Mourning dress first represented the Confucian idea of ancestral worship. For the composition of clothing in which a shamanistic element was inherent, forms of birds were used to guide the dead soul to the other world. In cutting out mourning dress, opposite concepts of Yin and Yang, and closure and openness were used to show a harmony between heaven and the earth. Male and female were represented through sewing techniques. The period of observing the mourning period depended on the degree of kinship. The degree to which the clothing was loose indicated the degree of sadness and kinship. Load blocks and tear pads indicated the degree of sadness. In considering the above indicators, family relation and filial piety to ancestors had a great effect on the form and details of mourning dress. Shamanistic elements as well as Confucian ones were inherent in mourning dress, which resulted in the combination of Taoism and Confucianism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.566-573
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• 1994

The Purpose of this study is to the organization principles of mourning dresses in Confucianism. The results of this thesis summarised as follow: The organization of mourning dresses laying stress on LiGi, the book of rites has six kinds of contents, Fushu. It is established on the rules and regulations of a religious sect in Confucianism, ZongFa. The succession ideology of ZongFaism has played on important parts in formation and conservation of the large familly system by the medium of mourning dresses with 5 classified costumes, WuFu. And the familly system in mourning dresses makes the rules in kindship category and primogeniture by WuFu grades.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.10
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• pp.1595-1607
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to find the reason why the National Mourning Dress System of the Joseon Dynasty had been established although the General Mourning Dress System had exist through research of three things; differences of each social class, changes of the National Mourning Dress System by the age and differences between the National one and the General one. The methodology which is adopted for this study is comparative analysis by social class, period and age from the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty and the Orye-e. And this study is focus on the women's dress. The results of this study is as follows; Firstly, some mourning dress items had been different or not used by class. Secondly, although there had not been a great change, some dress items had been disappeared or used irregularly. And Naemyoungbu Naekwan's mourning dress had been changed by the age. Thirdly, The National one was more extensive in wearing and applied differently by class compare to the General one. Also it had an additional rule according to the period, duty and place to Naemyoungbu-Naekwan and Naemyoungbu-Goongkwan. The National one had been established by ruling class of The Joseon Dynasty who had tried to keep the Confucian standard and perfect social status system. And it is supposed that the National Mourning Dress System had not been a great change because the ruling class' will had not been changed.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.233-240
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to consider psycological funtions of mourning dresses in Confucianism. By each step of A.V.Gennep's passage rites, the result of this thesis summarised as follow; In the first Seperation rites after calling the death' name three times the relatives for whom mourning is due become dishevelled hair bare feet and bare shoulder etc. In the second Transition rites, bereaved familly has worn 5 class mourning dresses in deep grief. In the third Cooperation rites, gradually the living familly goes through three year stages of changing mourning dresses to ordinary colthes. In Confucian funeral ceremony the deviation of clothing behavior in each mourning step sublimates bereaved person's sorrow into their internal security.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.51-60
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• 2005

This ethnography is on the passage ritual clothes in Incheon province. This ethnography invatigates in two villages of people who has same family name -Family 'Cheung' (from Young-il) in Yeonsoo-dong and Family 'Lee'(from Cheun-joo) in dongyang-dong- in August to December 2003. The object of examination is 80's and 70's old women who have lived and had lived up to recent in two villages. (grand mother Sung, Cho, Cheung and yoon) The clothes of passage ritual are Baenaeoht is the first clothes of the newborn baby(swaddling), A wedding ceremony clothe is the clothing for the coming-of-age ceremony, Honryebouk is the clothing for wedding, Sangbouk in the clothing for mourning, shroud is the clothing for the dead, sacrificial robes. The result of ethnogrphy is the passage ritual clothes in Incheon Province similar with other Provinces in aspect of the name and the form and wearing of the clothes. there are remarkable differences in making method from making by oneself to purchase(swaddling$\cdot$shroud), westernize(clothes for wedding and mourning), simplification (sacrificial) between ritual for their parents and their husband and children.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.54-59
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to clarify the performance of mourning clothes from Konggi Provincial Museum, to identify the fiber of these clothes, and investigate the washing effect by wet cleaning. Shapes of mourning clothes were studied, and some ingredients of non fibrous extracted matter were analyzed by FT-IR spectroscopy to clarify the performance of mourning clothes. Microscope examination, melting test, and stain test were used for the identification of the fiber. SEM was used to confirm the effect of washing after mourning clothes washed by wet cleaning added anionic detergent, sodiumdodecylbenzenesulfonate (LAS). The performance of these clothes was mourning cloth, not mummy cloth as results of analyses to the clothes' shapes and extract ingredients. The extract ingredients were carbohydrate, alkyl alcohol, and aldehyde. They didn't have any nitrogen compounds and fatty acids. The fiber identification showed this fiber was hemp. The effect of washing was high as the surface of fiber was clean and linear after wet washing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.269-284
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• 1995

This study investgates the significance of Chosun burial clothing in 15th to 17th Centuries by examing the costumes recorded in the ryesu (ritual books). Referring to description of the mouring-rit-ual in the the Kujoohryei(국조오례의), the sangryebiyo(상례비요), they exhibit little differ-ence in the ceremonial procedure, this implies that the the Jujagarye, the oldiest Chinese Ryesu, had influence on the manner of Chosun. The Kujoohryei(국조오례의) written-in 15th Century played a paramount role in domesti-cation of burial costume(염습의) which had been performed by the Jujagarye(주자가례), and the sangryebiyo(상례비요) etc written between 16th and 17th Centries promoted to genealize the mouring-ritual to the ordinery people. In the period, ryemsupui(염습의, clothing for the dead) is costumes for 'sup(습)', sofyum(소렴), and 'daeryum(대렴)' in the mourning ceremorial procedure, and for postliminal rites in the rites of passage. The reason of using clothing which they put on the dead's own daily clothing stands for eagerness for lasting life not only in this world but also in the other world.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.1-12
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• 2003

In this study I surveyed the dress and the color symbolism of Scarlett and Melanie in the movie "Gone with the Wind" based on the novel by Margaret Mitchell. In investigating the dress and the color symbolism, I analyzed Scarlett and Melanie's image as described in the novel, and examined how the symbolic imagery is represented through coloration based on the DVD reproduction of the movie "Gone with the Wind" originally produced in 1939. In her novel, the author Margaret Mitchell introduced two women, Scarlett and Melanie, whose respective image sharply contrasts with each other. To express Scarlett's young, vigorous, lusty, and vivacious image, she uses green to depict the character, clothing, and background on the whole. Black, which mainly expresses the death image of the mourning dress. Red symbolizes her fast and lavish image. On the other hand, gray is used to describe Melanie's sedate, shyness, and modest image while alluding to her gloomy atmosphere. Brown symbolizes her sedate and plain image in the novel. In the movie, green symbolizes Scarlett's overwhelming image of youth and liveliness as also depicted in the novel. Melanie, however, seems to appear consistently in gray-blue or purple dresses to reflect her image of modesty, sedation and dignity. Melanie's blue image contrasts with Scarlett's blue image in that the latter is used to hint at the omen to a tragedy to come. Red is used to express Scarlett's passionate and fast image. Black symbolizes death or mourning in the movie.

• The Journal of Korean Philosophical History
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• no.59
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• pp.215-240
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• 2018

In this paper, the contents about funeral rites in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial"(儀禮) were compared to those in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought. The most direct and systematic document related to funeral rites is "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial". Some of its contents had been reflected in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought, such as "Zuo Zhuan", "Mozi" and "Xunzi", while others didn't agree with one another. It happened because some contents had been already reflected in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought in the process of establishing scriptures about manners including the ancient "Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial", and because, on the contrary, the contents of the books of Hundred Schools of Thought had become included in the scriptures about manners by following Confucianism. First, the basic contents of Chapter 'Mourning Clothes' in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial" were generally reflected in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought, and there are many contents in common. Most prominently, three-year-mourning for parents and a king had been enhanced in Confucianism commonly. Although Mohism opposed Confucian luxurious and long funerals (厚葬久喪), the mourning clothing system in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial" can be said to have been people's universal understanding until the Spring and Autumn period at least. In addition, it has been verified that there were differences in the mourning clothes depending on the one who wore them was an adult or not both in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial" and the books of Hundred Schools of Thought. On the other hand, many arguments in the contents about funeral rites reflected in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought were different from the rules in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial". In particular, the mourning clothes for parents reflected in the books of Hundred Schools of Thought showed that there were differences depending on social positions, which was dissimilar to the regulations in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial". Also, different from the mourning clothes system for parents and a king, the system for a wife and a concubine was dissimilar to the rules in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial" in many ways. Since the regulations of Chapter of 'Mourning Clothes' in the present version of "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial" suggest different mourning clothes and periods depending on who wears the mourning clothes and what social position the deceased had, it seems difficult to implement them strictly historically as well as at those times. Especially, while the funeral rituals for a child was relatively clear based on the parent-child relationship of "affection" and those for a king and parents were plainly regulated and emphasized, the rules of those for a vassal and a wife were absent or ambiguous in many cases. Therefore, the term of "the Theee Bonds"(三綱) appeared first in Dong Zhongshu(董仲舒)'s "Luxuriant Dew of the Spring and Autumn Annals"(春秋繁露) that reflected the ideology of political ethics of Han Dynasty(漢代), but regarding its contents, it can be said to have been already reflected in "the Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial".