• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2012

In our previous studies, the antioxidant, anti-aging, and antibacterial activities of Persicaria hydropipier L. extract, and the moisturizing effect of cream containing P. hydropipier extract were investigated. In this study, the cellular protective effects of P. hydropipier extract and isoquercitrin, main component from P. hydropipier in $^1O_2$-induced photohemolysis of human erythrocytes and ultraviolet B (UVB)-exposed HaCaT cells were investigated. Liposomes such as ethosome and elastic liposome for enhanced transdermal delivery were prepared. Size, loading efficiency, stability, and cumulative permeated amounts of ethosomes and elastic liposomes were evaluated. P. hydropipier extract and isoquercitrin showed more prominent cellular protective effect than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, known as lipid antioxidant at $5{\mu}g/mL$. P. hydropipier extract didn't show any characteristics of cytotoxicity at $50{\mu}g/mL$. When HaCaT cells were exposed to a single large dose ($400mJ/cm^2$) of UVB, the extract protected the cells against UVB radiation in a concentration dependent manner ($12.5{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$). Cell viability of HaCaT cells exposed to UVB $400mJ/cm^2$ was increased by treatment with P. hydropipier extract or isoquercitrin from 36 % (cell viability of positve control groups) to 90 % (cell viability of P. hydropipier extract or isoquercitrin- treated groups). The size of 0.04 % P. hydropiper extract loaded ethosomes was 173.0 nm and the loading efficiency was 55.58 %. 0.04 % P. hydropiper extract loaded ethosomes were stable with as monodisperse particles for 1 week. The ethosome exhibited more skin permeability than general liposome and ethanol solution. The optimal ratio of lipid to surfactant ($Tego^{(R)}$ care 450) of 0.1 % P. hydropiper extract loaded elastic liposomes was observed to be 95 : 5. Vesicle size of 0.1 % P. hydropiper extract loaded elastic liposome was 176.5 nm. The deformability index of the elastic liposome was 16.4. The loading efficiency was 68.8 %. The elastic liposome containing P. hydropiper extract showed more skin permeability than liposome without surfactant ($Tego^{(R)}$ care 450).

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2018.10a
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• pp.26-27
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• 2018

With entry into force of the Nagoya Protocol to promote the fair sharing of the benefits of accessing and utilizing genetic resources, much support has been given to research on the development of biomaterials and products using domestic natural resources. Conservation and resource-saving of native species became very important through Nagoya Protocol enactment. The trend of cosmetic industry has been shifing from use synthetic chemicals to natural biomaterials, due to the safety regulations on new materials, ban on animal experiments, and expansion of cosmeceuticals range. In addition, functional cosmetic range has been expanded from whitening, wrinkle improvement, and ultraviolet shielding, to hair loss, hair loss alleviation, acne relaxation, and moisturizing of atopic skin, thus causing the activation of research about field of efficacy evaluation on natural biomaterials and commercialization. Chungbuk province is fostering the bio industry as a key industry for regional economic growth. For this purpose, Osong Biotechnology Complex/Ochang Science Industrial Complex in middle area, Jecheon biovalley in northern region, and Chungju Enterprise city have been established, thus playing a pivotal role in Bio innovative cluster in Korea. In particular, it was established the osong cosmetics clinical research support center to develop the cosmetics industry in chungbuk, thereby supporting clinical trials, efficacy evaluations, overseas certification, and overseas market entry in order to advance into the global market. In addition, oriental plants such as astragalus propinquus, schisandra chinensis, eucommia, alpiniae oxyphyllae fructus and biancaea sappan are being actively studied as global cosmetic ingredients through the promotion of various national research and development projects using natural materials in chungbuk province. The chungbuk natural product industry is expected to grow further throughout cosmetics industry development in the future, as companies and research institutes are actively promoting the secure index of effective material in natural products and effective material commercialization.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.109-120
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• 2014

In this study, the extracts of Inula britannica var. chinensis (I. britannica) flower were extracted at three different temperatures (room temperature, $45^{\circ}C$, and $65^{\circ}C$) and their anti-aging effects were studied. Before investigating anti-aging effects of the extracts, their cytotoxicity was tested on B16F10, Hs683, and HaCaT cells. All extracts showed no cytotoxicity at the concentration less than 0.1% (v/v). Melanin synthesis inhibitory activities in B16F10 cells and reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) in Hs683 and HaCaT cells were used to see their anti-aging effects. The room temperature extract at 0.1% showed 24.5% melanin synthesis inhibition, which was better than the $45^{\circ}C$ and $65^{\circ}C$ extracts. In addition, expression rates of the room temperature extract at 0.1% on HAS-1, HAS-2, and HAS-3 related to hyaluronan synthase genes were 123.3%, 137.8%, 133.2%, respectively. which were higher than reference material of L-ascorbic acid. Expression rates of the $45^{\circ}C$ extract at 0.1% on TNF-${\alpha}$, COX-2, and IL-$1{\alpha}$, which are inflammatory related genes, was suppressed to 30.3%, 12.8%, 25.7%, respectively. It was better in anti-in flammatory effect than the room temperature and $65^{\circ}C$ extracts. As results, we showed that I. britannica var. chinensis flower extarcts decreased melanin production and expression of inflammatory related genes and increased the expression rate of hyaluronan synthase genes. Thus, it is believed that the extracts affect anti-aging effects of skin through whitening, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory processes and could be applicable to cosmetics as a functional cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.283-294
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• 2020

In this study, in order to increase the utilization of Citrus junos seeds, which account for 13% of the weight ratio of Citrus junos ripened fruit, but are mostly discarded and not utilized, the efficacy of skin beauty of Citrus junos seed oil extracted by cold pressing was studied. Citrus junos seed oil was found to contain approximately 74% of unsaturated fatty acids consisting mainly of oleic acid and linoleic acid, and limonene, which is mainly contained in Citrus junos peel, contained a very low content of about 0.0187%. As a result of evaluating the DPPH radical scavenging activity of Citrus junos seed oil, 26% of DPPH radical scavenging ability was confirmed at 5% concentration of Citrus junos seed oil. To confirm the anti-inflammatory effect, as a result of testing RAW 264.7 cytotoxicity test and NO production for Citrus junos seed oil, NO production was suppressed by 53% at a concentration of 0.05% that does not show cytotoxicity. In addition, in the RBL-2H3 cytotoxicity and β-hexosaminidase release inhibitory efficacy test for anti-allergic efficacy confirmation, it was confirmed that β-hexosaminidas release was suppressed by 26% at a concentration of 0.05% that did not show cytotoxicity. Lastly, in the human skin application test result of O/W emulsion containing 5% of Citrus junos seed oil, it showed higher skin moisturizing effect than the control emulsion containing the same amount of caprylic/capric triglyceride. Therefore, it is thought that Citrus junos seed oil might be used as a excellent skin care material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.4 s.59
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• pp.233-239
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• 2006

This study was carried out for the evaluation of the effects of emulsion containing the specific antibodies against S. aureus that secreted staphylococcal toxins in atopy dermatitis (AD). The emulsion was formulated to have basic moisturizing effect and the function to inhibit S. aureus colonization and Staphylococcal toxins. The results were as follows; 1. In 19 subjects, 14 subjects (73.7%) showed improvement in SCORAD the mean SCORAD score was improved by 21.87% at week 4 compared to pre-application (p < 0.05). 2. In 17 subjects with severe lesions, 14 subjects(82.35%) showed improvement in SCORAD; the mean SCORAD score was improved by 25.11% at week 4 compared to pre-application (p < 0.05). 3. In 19 subjects, 15 subjects (79%) showed improvement in TEWL; the mean TEWL was improved by 24.32% at week 4 compared to pre-application (p < 0.05). 4. In 17 subjects with severe lesions, 14 subjects (82.35%) showed improvement in TEWL; the mean TEWL was improved by 25.47% at week 4 compared to pre-application (p < 0.05). 5. In 19 subjects, 15 subjects (79%) showed improvement in keratin capacitance; the mean keratin capacitance was improved by 25.01% at week 4 compared to pre-application (P < 0.05). 6. In 17 subjects with severe lesions, 13 subjects (76.47%) showed improvement in keratin capacitance; the mean keratin capacitance was improved by 20.82% at week 4 compared to pre-application (p < 0.05). Based on above-described results, emulsion containing the specific antibodies against S. aureus that secreted staphylococcal toxins is considered to be helpful in the improvement of atopic dermatitis.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.383-389
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• 2017

This study intends to analyze the contents of rutin, procyanidin B3, quercetin, kaempferol, known to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic effects, among the polyphenol type contained in the grape pruning stem extracts (GPSE), utilizing grape stems being discarded after harvest, measure the effects on the skin moisture, inhibition of skin cell proliferation, anti-inflammatory on the damaged skin of a HR-1 mice induced with UVB, and verify the applicability as a material for functional food and functional cosmetics. The results of verifying the photoprotection effects through the skin proliferation control through of GPSE showed similar result to suncream was achieved at the GPSE concentration of 2,000 mg/kg on the epidermis (p<0.05). The results showed anti-inflammatory effects on all groups applied with GPSE as compared to the control group irradiated with UVB, but at the GPSE concentration of 1,000 mg/kg, a lower COX-2 protein expression at 8%, lower than the 22% of suncream, was observed to achieve an excellent anti-inflammatory effect (p<0.05). The results of this study confirmed the existence of active polyphenol type, such as rutin, kaempferol, querocetin and procyanidin B3, within the GPSE, and GPSE has improvement effects on moisturizing effects, skin proliferation control effect, inflammatory control effect and improvement effects on the skin barrier function through UV ray damage. GPSE is a functional ingredient with a potential for skin protection effects, and has high utilization as an ingredient for functional food and functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.157-165
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don extracts were investigated. And the moisturizing effect of cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract were investigated by clinical trial. The ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (1.83 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % extract fraction (0.064 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (70.5 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (43.50 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (20.73 ${\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, the water contents in skin were increased by 1 ~ 4 % than the placebo cream. And TEWL of parts was decreased as 7.7 $g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and 8.9 $g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. These results indicate that extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And inhibitory activity on tyrosinase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for whitening and anti-wrinkle products. Also the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of Nutrition and Health
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.109-118
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• 2013

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation reduces epidermal hydration, which is paralleled by the reduction of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). Of various NMFs, free amino acids (AAs) are major constituents generated by filaggrin degradation. In this study, we attempted to determine whether dietary supplementation of royal jelly (RJ) in UV-irradiated mice can alters epidermal levels of hydration, filaggrins, and free AAs as well as of peptidylarginine deiminase-3 (PAD3), an enzyme involved in filaggrin degradation processes. Albino hairless mice were fed either a control diet (group UV+: UV irradiated control) or diets with 1% RJ harvested from different areas in Korea (groups RJ1, RJ2, and RJ3) or imported from China (group RJ4) for six weeks in parallel with UV irradiation. A normal control group (group UV-) was fed a control diet without UV irradiation for six weeks. Reduced epidermal levels of hydration, total filaggrins, and PAD3 were observed in group UV+; in group RJ1, these levels were increased to a level similar to that of group UV-. In addition, profilaggrins, two repeat intermediates (2RI), a precursor with two filaggrin repeats, and filaggrin were increased. Although no alteration of AAs was observed in any of the groups, and glutamate and serine, major AAs of NMF in group RJ1 were higher than in group UV+. Despite the increased levels of PAD3, epidermal levels of hydration, filaggrins, glutamate, and serine in groups RJ2, RJ3, and RJ4 were similar to those in group UV+. Dietary supplementation of RJ1 improves epidermal hydration in parallel with enhanced expression and degradation of filaggrin, but not by increased protein expression of PAD3, along with increased generation of glutamate and serine.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.51-58
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• 2005

Alkyl ethoxy sulfate type surfactants, widely used in commercial cleansers, are easily adsorbed to skin to often cause skin irritation and inflammation if not thoroughly rinsed nut. In order to replace or complement existing surfactants, we screened the existing surfactants through protein denaturation method, cell cytotoxicity assay and human IL-1$\alpha$ assay, etc. Fourteen surfactants have been chosen from among too irritant anionic, cationic and/or zwitter-ionic ones and investigated for cell cytotoxicity in human fibroblast cell lines using monolayer culture with the thirteen commercially available cleansers for sensitive skin. From these results, we selected 5 surfactants and 2 commercial cleansers (names not shown), such as sodium laureth sulfate (anionic), sodium cocoyl isethionate (anionic), sodium lauroamphoacetate (zwitter-ionic), and cocamidopropyl betaine (zwitter-ionic), alkyl polyglycoside (non-ionic). 20 formulations were made out of 5 surfactants and five of them were chosen through a protein denaturation method (lower than 3 M sodium dodecyl sulfate solution ($13.2\%$)), cell cytotoxicity and human patch test. These five selected formulations containing preservatives were compared to two selected commercial cleansers by cell cytotoxicity and human IL-1$\alpha$ ELISA assay using dermal equivalent. Finally, we selected the best formulation. To this formulation, fructan ($3\%$ or $5\%$) or/and portulaca extract ($3\%$ or $5\%$) well known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects were added and investigated for cell cytotoxicity using dermal equivalent. In cytotoxicity assay using dermal equivalent, two formulations containing $5\%$ fructan and $3\%$ or $5\%$ portulaca extract were less toxic than the others. In cytotoxicity assay and human IL-1$\alpha$ ELISA using 3D culture, the selected formulation containing $5\%$ fructan and $5\%$ portulaca extract showed better efficiency than those of the others and 2 commercial cleansers. As a result, we could develop a low irritant and safe liquid cleanser.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.9-17
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• 2019

In this study, $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid, which is a constituent of natural moisturizing factor, was applied to skin in periodic cycle to improve skin tone and texture roughness. Based on the polarity of the alkyl group (R) of the $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid, the acid was categorized into two groups and their efficacy was studied. As a result, it was found that the improvement rate of $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex with polar alkyl group ($L-{\alpha}-AAC-1$) is 21% higher than that of $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex with non-polar alkyl group ($L-{\alpha}-AAC-2$). For clinical trials, emulsions containing $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex ($L-{\alpha}-AAC-1$) were applied to the randomly selected 20 to 40 year old female participants, as an experimental group, on the right facial cheek once per day for 8 weeks, and emulsions without $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex, as a control group, were applied to the left facial cheek in the same way. Improvements in skin tone were measured using $JANUS^{(R)}$ equipment and analyzed using image analysis software. Skin texture improvement was measured and analyzed mechanically using the phaseshift rapid in-vivo measurement of the skin (PRIMOS) equipment. As a result, improvements of skin tone and skin texture were 11.7% and 6.7%, respectively. In addition, a questionnaire survey was conducted to the participants on the aesthetic improvement and the degree of the feeling of skin improvement. The results suggest that $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid can be used as a cosmetic substance that can provide aesthetic satisfaction through physiological skin tone and texture roughness.