• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.205-216
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• 복식
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• 제60권8호
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• pp.51-66
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• 2010

This study aimed to analyze the changing characteristics between Men's Gender Role and Men's wear Design in 20th century. To analyze the representative Men' Gender roles, the related studies and literatures reviewed. Literature reviews and quantitative studies were performed to analyze the changing differences of Korean Men's wear Deign as a symbolic factors of gender role. The results of study are as follows. 1) The representative men's gender roles in 1900's~1920's were 'Patriarchal/ Stern Man'. The narrow V-zone of jacket and shoulder, high shirt collars and well fitted suits expressed the stern images of that times. 2) In 1930's~50's, 'Enervated/ Escapist Man' were the representative images. They were expressed with wide lapels and shoulders, emphasized V-zone and abundant trousers. Especially 40's style was under the influence of American 'Zoot Style'. 3) The representative gender roles were the men of 'Producer/Provider' in 60's~70's. Shortened jacket, wide lapels & neckties, slim trousers were used to express the strong & young images of Producer/ Provider during the industrialization era. 4) The representative gender roles were 'Attentive/ Intellectual/ Beautiful Men' in 80's~90's. The exaggerated round shoulders which were influenced by 'Big Look', and easy silhouette were related with the attentive images.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.35-54
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• 2004

Perception of architectural experience is different in different culture. This paper aims to identify how the experience of architecture is understood to be different in Eastern and Western culture. The discussion is based on the idea that the Western architecture placed more emphasis on visual perception, while the Eastern, on mutual responsiveness between man and built environment. The fact that the Western culture is more visually oriented than other culture, and therefore visual aspect of architecture, too, is considered to be very important, is already widely agreed among scholars. But, then, what had been considered to be important in the architectural experience in the East? It is the degree and quality of mutual responsiveness between man and architectural environment. This fact influenced much on the making of architecture of course, and the same fact played the key role in making the Eastern architecture different from that of the West. We are so used to the way of architecture of the West, that the quality of responsiveness is unknown if not forgotten. However, it is not the quality that was useful only in traditional society of the East, but necessary in our modem period as well. The quality for responsiveness, therefore, should be rediscovered and restored as the prime value and quality of architecture in the future architecture.

• 철학연구
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• 제137권
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• pp.193-223
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• 2016

본 논문은 "장자"의 철학적 사상을 인식하고 있는 진인(眞人)에 관한 정체성을 분석하고 해석하여 그 것을 파악 한 후에 이론적으로 구성한다. 그리고 그에 따른 장자철학 사상을 고찰하는 데 초점을 두고 작성하는 것을 목적으로 전개하고 있다. "장자" "대종사(大宗師)"에 등장하는 진인의 정체성에 대한 문제의식은 그가 형이상학적 인물이고 그를 나타내는 말들은 현대인이 살펴서 느끼기에 매우 난해한 글로 쓰여 있다. 따라서 진인이 지니고 있는 사색적(思索的) 능력들은 세속적 생활을 하고 있는 인간이 체득하기에는 너무 초월적 개념으로 이루어져 있으며 어쩌면 설화(說話)에 가까운 느낌이 들게 한다. 이러한 진인의 초월적 기능들을 알 수 있는 방법은 장자의 무위(無爲)를 이해하는 데에 있다. 그리고 무위는 만물에 작용하여 생명체를 생성시키는 도리(道理)의 개념을 정리하는 관점에서 만든 언어적 표현으로 볼 수 있다. 여기에는 만물의 생명체들이 자연의 공능에 대하여 불가항력적(不可抗力的) 물리성(物理性)이 내재되어 있는 관점을 간과할 수 없다. 그래서 본고는 자연의 초월적 공능을 진인에서 파악하고 그 원리적 작용을 연구하는데 중점을 두고 있다. 그러면 과연 진인의 안팎은 어떠한 모습을 갖고 있나 궁굼증이 있을 수 있다. 이에 그의 초인적 모습을 "대종사"에서 발췌하여 정리하고, 아울러 그가 천지만물에 대하여 처세하는 방법을 자연적 관점에서 살피고 정리했다. 그런데 여기에서 장자의 글 이외에 유가와 법가의 글이 나타나고 있다. 이것 역시 분석하고 파악하는 절차를 통하여 문제의식을 연구하여 본다. 그러나 조사적(調査的) 개념을 지양(止揚)하고 학문적(學文的) 차원으로 접근하여 동양이 갖고 있는 고유한 정신과 사상을 고찰하는데 중점을 두었다.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.84-100
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• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• 한국언론정보학보
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• 제61권
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• pp.118-133
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• 2013

리영희는 한국 현대사에서 가장 영향력 있는 언론인의 한 사람이다. 철학자와 정치학자들이 리영희에 대한 논문을 써왔지만, 언론학계에선 이제 비로소 논문이 나오고 있다. 리영희에 대한 평가는 '사상의 은사' 또는 '의식화의 원흉'으로 평행선을 그어왔다. 본 논문은 상반된 평가들 사이에 소통을 위해, 양쪽의 논리를 비교하고 두 논리가 놓치고 있는 지점을 짚음으로써 리영희의 현재적 의미를 분석했다. 먼저 리영희가 '시장과 북한에 대한 잘못된 인식을 초래했다'는 비판과 반비판론자들의 논리가 각각 '허수아비 논증의 오류'(fallacy of straw man)와 '논점 회피의 오류'(fallacy of question-begging)를 범하고 있음을 리영희의 글을 통해 밝혔다. 이어 '진실 추구의 고투'를 리영희가 언제나 강조한 사실에 주목했다. 상찬과 매도로 평행선을 그려온 두 논리 사이에 소통의 필요성은 리영희가 보수와 진보 어느 한쪽에서만 높이 평가해도 좋을 만큼 한국의 언론 상황이 여유롭지 않은 데 있다. 언론이 정파주의에 점점 더 매몰되어가고 있기에 리영희가 강조한 '진실 추구의 고투'에 담긴 현재적 의미는 더 크고 깊다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.7-18
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• 2000

인간 생활을 영위하는데 기본 조건으로 꼽는 '의·식·주' 가운데 의생활은 그 첫 손에 꼽힌다. 특히 우리 민족은 일찍부터 문화민족으로 널리 알려지면서 각 시대와 사회의 예의제도와 관련하여 어느 민족 못지않게 훌륭한 의생활을 영위하여 왔으며, 우리 복식에는 면면이 이어져 내려오는 역사의 흔적이 있고, 선조의 정신이 서려 있다. 복식은 그 시대의 역사적 배경이나 사회환경, 생활양식에 따라 변화하여 왔다. 우리의 복식 역시 조상의 지혜를 바탕으로 보다 편리하고 세련된 복식문화에 적용시키려는 노력에 의해 많은 변천을 거듭하여 왔다. 특히 현대 복식에서 조각보는 생활장식품으로서 특히 현대 복식디자인의 모티브로 널리 응용되고 있음은 주목할 만하다. 본 연구는 의상디자인에 있어서 우리 복식문화의 소품적 특색을 지닌 조각보의 조형적인 특징을 응용하여 전통적인 조형미를 표출시키는 동시에 현대 복식디자인의 창의적 표현 영역을 확대함에 목적을 둔다. 이를 위해 문헌조사와 보존 유실의 실증적 자료를 통해 조각보의 조형적 특성을 분석, 제시하고, 그 결과를 디자인에 응용하기 위해 실물 총 8벌의 작품을 제작하였다.

• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.113-134
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• 2001

This study was carried out with an objective to prepare the framework of conformity for the 21st century modern fashion, which is interactive with mankind, based on a position that the 21st century contemporary fashion with its amalgamating trend of diversified artistic forms may not be elucidated on a standpoint centering on one certain modality. The hybrid fashion trend of historical modality which provides freedom and satisfaction in creation of an individuals expressive power in expressing true desire of mans inside through man-centered thought of the times has made multifarious motives of the past and present fragmentary. It thus extracts inner divisions and the concept of consolidation through three-dimensional form. Modern fashion is newly interpreted by the material and details of high technologies. and is harmonized by mix and match with various expressions. By having it, it is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments. Modern fashion is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments by new interpretations with the material and details of high technologies and by being harmonized with mix and match with various expressions. The hybrid fashion design trend of regional elements formed by stimuli and contacts of diverse local culture by globalization of network that was achieved by scientific technologies of the contemporary information society has disintegrated varied boundaries in the conventional culture by the latest communication technology-new media on the basis of newly created culture. The fact that regional elements could be expressed as if they were interrelated without each being deprived of originality may be explained with an interpretation on pluralism. The hybrid fashion design trend of cultural aspect, which manifests in the background of scientific technological culture as it transcends the societal-cultural boundaries based on the de-centralization theory of Frederic Jameson, has supplemented the imperfect meanings through conversional correlation with other forms and internal program changes. The middle stratal and polyhedral characteristics are seen as each cultural element is dismantled and reassembled by application of 'multiple-time point expression'. Design forming method is not to bring destruction from outside, but to embrace instability and chaos through radical dismantling of the inside. and to pursue diversity and openness. Thus. it is implemented by an approach that takes the role of design process. In communication of discontinuity, continuity was dismantled through forms of mixing, overlap, perversion, insertion and coincidence.

• Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.851-856
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• 2012

Objective: NBS1 plays a key role in the repair of DNA double-strand break (DSB). We conducted this study to investigate the effect of two critical polymorphisms (rs1805794 and rs13312840) in NBS1 on treatment response and prognosis of advanced non-small cell lung cancer (NSCLC) patients with platinum-based chemotherapy. Methods: Using TaqMan methods, we genotyped the two polymorphisms in 147 NSCLC patients. Odds ratios (ORs) and their 95% confidential intervals (CIs) were calculated as a measure of difference in the response rate of platinum-based chemotherapy using logistic regression analysis. The Kaplan-Meier and log-rank tests were used to assess the differences in progression-free survival (PFS) and overall survival (OS). Cox proportional hazards model was applied to assess the hazard ratios (HRs) for PFS and OS. Results: Neither of the two polymorphisms was significantly associated with treatment response of platinum-based chemotherapy. However, patients carrying the rs1805794 CC variant genotype had a significantly improved PFS compared to those with GG genotype (16.0 vs. 8.0 months, P = 0.040). Multivariable cox regression analysis further showed that rs1805974 was a significantly favorable prognostic factor for PFS [CC/CG vs. GG: Adjusted HR = 0.62, 95% CI: 0.39-0.99; CC vs. CG/GG: Adjusted HR = 0.56, 95% CI: 0.32-0.97). Similarly, rs13312840 with a small sample size also showed a significant association with PFS (CC vs. CT/TT: Adjusted HR = 25.62, 95% CI: 1.53-428.39). Conclusions: Our findings suggest that NBS1 polymorphisms may be genetic biomarkers for NSCLC prognosis especially PFS with platinum-based chemotherapy in the Chinese population.