• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.49-66
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• 1999

The bisexuality deconstructivity and diversity that are great characteristics on the comtemporary fashion are showed in the fashion collections. The purpose of this paper is to investigate and analyze the influence of these characteristics made by the post modern-feminism fashion through the cultural pattern analysis. The post modern-feminism was analyzed by dividing the cultural pattern into 1) the deconstructivity of androcentrism -This characteristic was presented in the costume design that breaks the basic from of the line color and quality of the material showing in men's clothes. 2) By rejecting main current fashion -Subculture style appeared in main current fashion the boundary of main and anti-main current fashion was vagued and the phenomena that the identity of subgroup was weakened were showed. 3) In the coexistence of double-sided value -This characteristic was presented in the cross-dressing fashion that cut away women's slender part and men's rough part. 4) In the open-minded thought of gender -This tendency was reached an extreme from excessive exposure to design which gives the sexual stimulus. This paper is expected to be helpful to understand the contemporary fashion by treating the cultural category associated with post-modern feminism in relation to contemporary fashion and to establish the direction of 21 century fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.118-135
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• 2015

This study probed into the fashion of modern girls between the 1920's and the 1930's who led the mentality and fashion of women as the progenitor of the alpha girl in Korea. For this, the fashion of actual people who received attention as modern girls in various occupations and that of modern girl heroines reinterpreted in films were examined. Methods included the theoretical study based on fashion related newspaper articles at the time, specialized publications, advance researches, and internet data and the empirical study that involved contents analysis centering on visual data. The Western women's fashion between the 1920's-1930's was dominated by the garçonne look to promote women's entry into society and competition against men and the practical and mature long and slim look due to the influence of economic recess. Korean people also adapted Western clothes following Western fashion while also modified the traditional clothes and wore modified Korean clothes. The fashion of 5 actual modern girls of Korea and that of 3 film heroines were examined. The fashion of actual people most well represented the fashion trends at the time and that they used fashion as the means to express their mentality and their artistic propensity and professionalism were expressed through fashion. On the other hand, the fashion of film heroines substantially expressed various occupations of the characters in the film and reflected trendy clothes and cosmetics, and it showed sexy and romantic fashion trend due to the influence of modern trends and reinterpretations.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.13-28
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• 2012

The objective of this research is to examine the fashion styles of Choe Seung-Hee (1911-1969), modern woman and dancer of Korea, through her life and activities. From such theoretical and empirical studies, three aesthetic characteristics of South Korea's modern woman Choe Seung-Hee's fashion styles could be deduced. Based on the three deduced styles of modern elegance, futuristic avant-garde and mystical Asian aesthetics, "Pearl of Asia" was selected as the main theme. The result is that the fashion styles of Choe Seung-Hee is not simply that of an individual modern woman and a dancer who lived in the early 20th century but is a meaningful symbol of Korea's modern women.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.346-360
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• 2023

The pataphysics implemented by digital technology differs from the form of objects in the real world and is used throughout the cultural industry. This study aims to analyze the expression method of pataphysics as applied to modern fashion and derive its impact on the fashion industry. The research analyzes fashion images, shows, films, displays, and e-commerce, since 2016, when pataphysics began to be used in the fashion domain. Pataphysics, created by Alfred Zaire, appeared as an overlapping phenomenon that reflects physical phenomena in the virtual world. The expression method of pataphysics applied to modern fashion was divided into an augmented reality method based on immersion and interaction, a virtual platform-oriented metaverse, and a virtual model expressing a processed self. The influence of pataphysics applied to modern fashion is as follows. In the field of design, pataphysics affects the development of contemplative designs for innovation and creativity. Second, digital technology can expand the role of fashion at the intersection of art and fashion that takes a novel perspective through pataphysics. Third, e-commerce positively affects efficient production and consumption through virtual and economic models. In conclusion, this study's findings are expected to play a positive role in promoting creativity and innovation by introducing new perspectives and ideas into modern fashion through pataphysics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.205-215
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• 2010

In modern society as people adapt to social and cultural changes, people prefer high-scarcity designed products rather than standardized ones. Consequently, this adaptation lays a foundation in art and cultural domains to express uniqueness and individuality. The purpose of this study is to develop fashion designs by fusing fashion painting and handicraft techniques through creative and various artistic expressions. The researchers studied the sociocultural background of modern handicraft fashion using document-based research methods. Based on the characteristics of modern handicraft, we produced six garments that applied fashion painting techniques. In this study, the origin of fashion painting was found in ornaments such as tattoo or body-painting. We determined that modern designers were using various fashion painting techniques and motives as unique and advanced ornamentary skills. Harmonizing various handicraft techniques(dyeing, embroidery, quilt, patchwork, beads, fashion painting, etc.) centered on fashion painting enabled creation of unique fashion design through varieties of artistic expressions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.110-127
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• 2015

This study probed into the fashion styling of modern girls who led fashion and revealed power of woman as the center of modernization in Korea. Methods included the theoretical study based on fashion related newspaper articles at the time, specialized publications, advance researches, and internet data and the empirical study that involved contents analysis centering on visual data, expert evaluation, and styling development and presentation. The image of Korean modern girl analysis found in the order of modern image, elegant image, classic image, mannish image, romantic image. The aesthetic characteristics could be classified into sensual classicism, modern elegance, feminist epicenism, and romantic simplicity. The theme was 'Retro Modern' and a total of 4 styles were applied. 'Progressive Tradition' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of sensual classicism and it gave a modern reinterpretation of the seamless one-piece skirt which is the modified Korean clothes of Korean modern girls. 'Luxe Beauty' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of modern elegance, and it developed the long and slim style which was popular in the 1930's in a trendy way. 'Dressy Avant-garde' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of feminist epicenism, and it suggested the mannish style Western clothes that Korean modern girls wore by following recent fashion trend. 'Minimal Couture' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic simplicity and it presented the garçonne look which was popular in the 1920's by following recent trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.163-182
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.317-334
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• 2021

This study aims to examine the expressive characteristics and meanings of modern in contemporary fashion, especially focusing on Vogue and The New York Times. First, modern signified originality born out of borderless fusion and compromise. It was also expressed to signify diversity and tolerance not bounded by conventions, TPO, areas, ethnic groups, seasons, or gender. Second, modern meant functionality encompassing the comfort of body and mind. It was used to refer to convenient mobility and activity fit for the lifestyle of busy modern people. Third, lightness and naturalness were used as new meanings of beauty in modern fashion. In the fashion of the twenty-first century, the principal meaning of modern was lightness, which was sought after in everything including materials, modes of wearing, and ways of thinking. Finally, modern fashion was expressed as a democratic tool for social reform and used in the meaning of enlightenment to benefit society as well as oneself. The results of this study indicate that constant changes in trends, lifestyles, and psychology of contemporary society have the potential to give new meaning to the concept and the use of the term modern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.153-161
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of goth image which have had influence on literature, film, music and art, in modern fashion. The method of this study is to analyze the documentary about gothic and goth, and the fashion magazines since 2000. The results of this study are as follows: First, sensuality shows the excessive exposure of body and inner wear, and emphasizes a resistance of sexual consciousness and a image of independent, active, powerful woman. Second, androgyny shows the goth women wearing a men's cloth and encourages a person to have a perfect being and satisfaction. Third, horror shows the symbol of death and suggests a substance of desire hidden in our mind. Fourth, historicity shows victorian fashion which have a romance of gothic and baroque, not a cult but a modern image. In conclusion, goth image in modern fashion does not show a substance negative and horrorful, but a substance positive as a perfection, satisfaction, a sense of freedom, obliteration of a feeling of uneasiness and powerful woman's image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.64-75
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• 2024

Clothing is a powerful medium that reflects the environment, situation, and trends of the times. It has been an important subject of semiotic analysis, particularly in East Asia. While Korea, China, Japan, and Mongolia are geographically close, they have each developed unique characteristics in their clothing. These characteristics continue to evolve over time. The purpose of this paper is to explore the modern fashion design characteristics of these four East Asian countries by using the Greimas symbol square. To achieve this, the paper follows a research method consisting of several steps. First, it considers previous studies on the topic. Second, it analyzes fashion collections from Paris, Milan, New York, and London, as well as the Seoul and Cruise collections, from 2013 to 2024. Third, it compares costumes and modern fashion designs of brands known for their East Asian influences. Finally, it applies the framework of the Greimas symbol square to analyze the main elements of dress culture in these four countries and their significance in modern fashion collections. The findings of this study reveal that East Asian costume culture can be summarized into four distinct characteristics in modern fashion. Korea is characterized by "moderation," China by "exaggeration," Japan by "distinctiveness," and Mongolia by "symbolism."