• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 2014

Leggings are recognized as unique fashion items that meet the needs of customers to express individuality due to their protective and thermal functions. They are highly practical fashion items that show a casual, street and sportive style with a noted influence on outdoor leisure fields. This study analyzes the sociocultural background for the spread of leggings as well as their design characteristics, coordination characteristics and authentic characteristics. The formative characteristics of modern legging designs are as follows. First, the shapes of modern leggings are ankle-length, calflength, above-knee, knee-length, stirrup and top of the foot-length. Leggings are transformed in many ways: length-expansion, side-slit, unbalanced length, variations of straps, cut-out, trimmings, pattern transformation and complex form. Second, modern leggings contain achromatic colors in modern and sensual image, vivid colors in sportive image and metallic colors futuristic and technical image. Third, leggings patterns value originality, uniqueness and rarity as shown by printed geometric patterns, hand crafted geometric and natural patterns, and abstract patterns expressed through various materials and themes. Fourth, modern leggings' textures are categorized into erotic, simply-functional, seasonless, glossy, and metallic. Functional and fashionable leggings reflect the psychological needs of modern society. This study suggests a direction for the development of legging designs and provides a theoretical database for higher value-added leggings business.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.7 no.1 s.14
• /
• pp.93-108
• /
• 1998

The threads of this thesis are several theoretical issues of modern urban ideals. Modern architects and urban designers conceived their individual artifacts, which assumed to be laid out on the new settings totally different from the existing urban fabrics derived from inherently medieval ones. In the discussion of modern ideal society, the Industrial Revolution and the Enlightenment was a pivotal point. Innovations in technology and expanded living territories since the double revolution have been critical factors in the evolution of new ideas of urbanism. The tremendous success in science and technology led a way to the 'science-fiction' environment as a destined apocalyptic world. The dream, whether it was socialist or in any other believes, to a pastoral utopia beyond the capitalist society was represented through the ideal cities, which were modern versions of arcadia in the other approaches. Two sides of revolutionary ideas are presented as a futurist city and a garden city, which are on the separate notions but co-existed or overlapped in a single urban project such as in Le Corbusier urban schemes or even Tchumi's recent work, Parc de la Villette. Urban ideas in the twentieth century are based on urban naturalism, the notion of which was consistant from abbe Laugier to Le Corbusier, as well as machine aesthetics interpreted in terms of archeological research and modern technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.9
• /
• pp.88-96
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to present examples for modern application with traditional color on ceremonial costume of Korean folk belief which is regarded as representative research material standing for Korean cultural archetype. The arrangements of color on the ceremonial costume of Korean folk belief were selected from 11 items specified as an import intangible cultural asset. These color arrangements were composed of fundamental colors from the viewpoint of modern color sensation, but had a excellent harmony in Hue. Therefore, not shifting Hue of color arrangement on ceremonial costume, traditional color arrangement was apply to contemporary it by shifting tone. Brilliant and deep chromatic tone that belong to 3, 4 area was converted into toned light grey, light clear, dark deep, toned dark grey, and greyish chromatic tone that belong to 1, 2 area or 5, 6, 0 area or 2, 7, 9 area. The plan that applies arrangement color with brightness contrast of traditional fundamental colors on a modern color harmony was presented from that. Like this, we can combine traditional color into modern color sensation, stylize and apply it on a production of character, logogram design, fashion design for characters in animation or game. From this, we'll be able to be close to the color arrangement sensation including our racial emotion in the everyday life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.9
• /
• pp.115-130
• /
• 2009

A kind of Korean traditional jacket, Baeja, has been a Korean traditional costume equipped with practicality and formative aesthetics from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. Accordingly, the researcher of this study highly valued a modern sense of Baeja with various types of design and forms and attempted to make efforts to apply it into modern life. This study provided a new direction in the modernization work of traditional costumes by creating fashion images newly interpreted corresponding to a modern sense and trend through the application of formative characteristics and noticeable elements via the coordination of traditional Baeja and modern costumes. On the one hand, it would be meaningful in terms of contributing to the activation of traditional Hanbok by providing people with ample opportunities to wear it in modern daily lives variously. On the other hand, the actual purpose of this study was to perform a modernization work for traditional costumes by attempting to conduct a crossover that could let people move into other areas freely, that is, a creative and innovative research associating the area of costume history and that of coordination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.1
• /
• pp.50-60
• /
• 2001

This study is to clarify the concept of \"Americanization\" among korean modern clothing culture by investigating magazines from 1920s to 1930s. The Americanization of modern clothing culture can be divided to New fashion, Sports-wear, and Cloth improvement. 1. New fashion, Western culture was the main stream of new fashion, and modern boys and girls could bear cultural privileged consciousness. And the spread of modern culture was so fast that exaggerated fashional preference provoked extravagancy and loss of individuality. 2. Sports-wear. Under the rule of Japanese imperialism, initial sports activity was encouraged to regulate colony by principle and order. Through the sports-wear, practicality of clothing, exposure of female body, and the concept of T.P.O.(Time, place, occasion) were introduced. 3. Cloth improvement. The capitalism and modern concept of \"time\" were introduced and promoted maximum productivity. And to increase productivity, imperialist educated conveniency of western clothes and inconveniency of traditional Korean clothes. These could affect Koreans to think themselves a sense of inferiority(uncivilized complex).ncivilized complex).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.5
• /
• pp.147-156
• /
• 2001

The painting style has much influenced on the creativity of design in the developmental process of modern fashion. This fact tells that pure art and fashion design have the same purpose in the end. In this paper. the color Autonomy of Matisse was analyzed and how its result influences on modern fashion design was investigated. Matisse is, in fact. the leader of Fauvism and the painter who brought the Fauvism painting to its perfection in the purest state. Matisse achieved the revolution of new color with only the color in expressing formative factor. Matisse's color autonomy are fusion technique, flatness, decoration, simplicity, etc. To sum up the influence that this autonomy played on modern fashion design, intensive pure color expression, strongly-supplemented color effect among primary colors, decoration of color, simplicity of color, that is to say. he gave rise to the revolution of color, Many modern designers are applying this method to the theme of fashion and motive, color the technique of expression. Thanks to this. the new formative artistic expression could be adapted in fashion, and it also induced the inspiration of original design, with great contribution to bringing the era of its own distinct individualism in modern times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.46
• /
• pp.49-66
• /
• 1999

The bisexuality deconstructivity and diversity that are great characteristics on the comtemporary fashion are showed in the fashion collections. The purpose of this paper is to investigate and analyze the influence of these characteristics made by the post modern-feminism fashion through the cultural pattern analysis. The post modern-feminism was analyzed by dividing the cultural pattern into 1) the deconstructivity of androcentrism -This characteristic was presented in the costume design that breaks the basic from of the line color and quality of the material showing in men's clothes. 2) By rejecting main current fashion -Subculture style appeared in main current fashion the boundary of main and anti-main current fashion was vagued and the phenomena that the identity of subgroup was weakened were showed. 3) In the coexistence of double-sided value -This characteristic was presented in the cross-dressing fashion that cut away women's slender part and men's rough part. 4) In the open-minded thought of gender -This tendency was reached an extreme from excessive exposure to design which gives the sexual stimulus. This paper is expected to be helpful to understand the contemporary fashion by treating the cultural category associated with post-modern feminism in relation to contemporary fashion and to establish the direction of 21 century fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.22
• /
• pp.5-22
• /
• 1994

This study was intended to analyze the con-cept of unconsciousness of Surrealism on the fabric of modern fashion. Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and artistic en-vironment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Especially the surrealistic methodology was changed into various methods of surreal-istic painters, They explored the world of subconsciousness of uncosciousness in the world of human being. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental disruption. By this fact human being of the 20th century was sought a philosophical and artistic value to overcome social disease. That is their search for spiritual world was interested in surrealist's psychoanalytical method. The fashion in the 20th century is changing rapidly for the new century to come. Under such circumstances as these modern fashion is attempted to pursue new innovative and in-dividual ideas. recently the mental images through Surrealism was represented in the for-mative feature of modern fashion. To study the concept of unconsciousness of Surrealism on the fabric of modern fashion I selected and examined artistic books and fashion magazines. As a result of this review I found that some fabrics used in modern fashion are printed in a free shapes without any meaning or form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.33
• /
• pp.157-173
• /
• 1997

The Mannerism which was born on Italy in 16th century was the critical trend of art influencing the political economical and psychological trends and was the first mo-dality which respected the individual sense of artist. The cultural situation of that time es-pecially the alienation of men is similar to the pluralism of value the coexistency of conflict the acceptance of heterogeneity and uncer-tainty I modern century. This paper analysed the pattern of change in the trend of Mannerism in modern costume by comparing current trend from the past focus-ing th fact that the over-all situation in this century is similar to that of Mannerism in 16th century. In this paper the author suggests the Defor-mation Ambiguity and Irreglarity as the character of manneristic trend which has re-solved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression. The results of comparing the characteristic of mannerism to the modern costume is followd; 1. The Deformation in modern costume is grossly subdivided to the transfrmation of morphology the transformation of scale and the breakdown of equilibrium 2. The ambiguity in the modern costume can be subdivided to the eclecticistic expression and the ambiguity of spatial concept(between inner and outer garments). 3. The illogiclities in modern costume are the technique of illusion structural illogicality and the collage technique.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.11
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 1995

Scandinavian design has special meaning in design history. Especially the Swedish designers have developed elegant and humane design style by combining the functionalism originated in Germany in the beginning of 20th century with their own crafts tradition. Now 'Swedish Modern' or 'Swedish Grace' is regarded as the most preferrable style for modern industrial society. American design as well as European design has been much changed under the influence of this democratic, simple and beautiful style. To find out the essential qualities of Swedish design style, I want to investigate the history of modern Swedish design and the design mechanism in Swedish corporates. Also I want to introduce the design education system in Sweden, which has contributed to developing contemporary Swedish design philosophy.